Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: ID : City of Rocks : Lost Arrow Spire : Ischemic Pain / Body Buster (5.12a PG13)
By: Jesse James When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I ended up going straight up and slightly right from the fourth bolt. I skipped the bolt to the left that was almost at the exact same height, but I'm not sure if this was off route or not. Going to the left of the two bolts would have made a slightly more direct line. Above that bolt, you'll definitely want a piece or two, its a long way between bolts, although not terribly hard. The final moves to the lip were a lot harder than expected.
|
Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : The Doghouse : Meaty Bone (5.12b)
By: Jesse James When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure if I was off-route or not, but I ended up slightly left after the last bolt. Just couldn't find any real holds staying directly on the bolt line...
|
Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Photo
By: Jesse James When: Oct 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is another 13b between A and C on the topo. Finishes on B.
I believe it is called "Derailed"
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Narrow Arrow and further ri... : Thin Fingers (5.11a)
By: Jesse James When: Oct 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A cool variation called Big Toes (5.11) traverses right at the upper roof to another thin crack about 10 feet to the right of the regular route. Rejoin thin fingers about 10 feet below the anchor.
|
Location: WA : Exit 38 / Deception Crags &... : Club Paradiso / The Actual ... : Giant (5.11c/d)
By: Jesse James When: Oct 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can continue past the first anchor to a second anchor about 20 feet higher. This is called Mr. Big (5.12-).
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side : Godzilla (5.9)
By: Jesse James When: Apr 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really fun variation called "Bambi" steps left via a long reach and a mantle about 15 feet before the regular leftward traverse. This probably makes it 5.10-, and is a more direct line. Even better than the original godzilla, which is already ultra classic.
|
Location: WA : Leavenworth : Tumwater Canyon : Midnight Rock : Easter Overhang (5.10c PG13)
By: Jesse James When: Apr 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't be scared off by the offwidth description in the Climbing washington book. There are actually a few holds that make it quite a bit easier than it looks. If I remember correctly, there is a good looking pin at the bulge.
|
Location: OR : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Toxic (5.11b)
By: Jesse James When: Mar 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun crux, but way too short to be considered classic in my opinion.
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Great Northern Slab : Libra Crack (5.10-)
By: Jesse James When: Mar 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you have big hands, getting established in the tight hands section will probably seem hard, luckily it widens up quickly.
|
Location: WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall
By: Jesse James When: Mar 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this crag is called World Wall 1.
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : The Country Area : The Country : GM Route (5.9)
By: Jesse James When: Mar 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a great varition from the top of the 5.10b pitch on heart of the country that continues for about 40 more feet. The Cramer guide calls it 11a, but its not any harder than 5.10 with great gear.
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side : Sagittarius (5.10a/b)
By: Jesse James When: Mar 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The full first pitch (5.11b) is one of the best on the lower wall. This pitch has everything you could ever want on a climb. It's the only climb I have ever enjoyed that I place a #3, #3.5, #4, and a #4.5 camalot on.
|
RSS Feed
