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Me, at Red Rock Canyon


Member Since: Sep 24, 2007
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Jeremy Steck

Point Rank: # 66
Total Points: 5,465
Last Year: 238
Last 30 Days: 2
56 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeremy Steck been climbing?










Contributions


All 2387 | Routes 415 | Areas 56 | Photos 77 | Page Improvements | Comments 87 | Posts 5 | Stars 1318 | Ratings 429
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Its Right to be Frank (5.11a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: As of Spring 2015, this route has cleaned up quite well. Although its not as good as many of the other routes at this cliff, it's worth doing as an alternate warm up.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : El Diablo Wall : Purgatory (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: Despite the rock quality under the first bolt, this is a pretty good climb. Interesting movement throughout. It would certainly benefit from more traffic to keep it clean.


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : The Soul Asylum : Ren and Stimpy Wall : You Idiot (5.10d)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: This route is much more fun than it appears. Cool sequences. The top single anchor appears solid as of 2/15.


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : The Soul Asylum : The Watchtower : Red Cloud (5.10a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: You need to use the mid anchors to get down unless you have an 80M rope. A 70M doesn't even get you close...I tried.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Hippy's at Bat (5.9+) : Photo
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: This photo is of Hippy's at Bat, 5.10a. Mickey Mantle is to the right.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Flirting With Mutants (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Returning 5 years later after my first attempt and being much stronger, I still found this route to be quite difficult between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. It's also a little spicy there as you would get pretty close to decking if you blow the 3rd clip, or at a minimum, you're going to fall on your belayer! That aside, this route has awesome sequences and is truly worthy of a go if its not too close to your limit.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side West : Primeval Atmosphere (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: I think this might be one of the better lines at this cliff, save for some of the 12's. Blowing the 2nd clip might have some consequences, but a finding a good clipping stance or just stick clipping the 2nd bolt takes care of that issue. Worth the walk down here for this route!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Tsunami Wall : Tremor (5.10-) : Photo
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: This picture is Low Tide


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Cool Your Jets (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: This route is fantastic! A nice blend of steep sport climbing mixed with smeary granite foot placements typical of LCC. The bolts have glue placed on them to prevent corrosion. In my opinion, the bolts are ready for replacement. All of the studs and nuts are heavily corroded. Judging by the exterior appearance, I bet at least one of them is sketchy inside the bolt hole. Just a matter of time til we find out which one is severely corroded inside.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Welcome Back Cobble (5.12d)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: This one has cleaned up pretty well. It is still a little fragile if your feet stray and bump any unused stuff. Great sustained climbing, not a jug haul. Requires good technical movement to make some of the poor holds useful.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Cannabis Wall : Mission Control (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: I've believe that Mission Control, 12a is doing the traverse right at the 4th bolt and linking into the finish on Three Amigos. This matches up with the originally posted description and feels like 12a. If done this way, the bolt protects the crux at the right traverse quite well. Fun slabby moves...and I hate slab! Straight up the arete is 11c, with the crux being the initial boulder problem. This version I would not want to fall on, fortunately its easy up there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : Ivy Mike (5.12d)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: This is a pretty unique climb. It requires a lot of strange body positions, but it is really fun in my opinion.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Watchtower
By: Jeremy Steck When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: In spring (May), goes into the sun around noon. Back in the shade around 5PM.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Stratocaster Direct (5.12b)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: The gate on the biner of the first fixed draw is still in the same condition as of 11/30/13. Clip it, but stick the second for sure. The crappy biner still does a fine job of redirecting the forces if you blow the dyno and keeps you from slamming into your belayer. The crux move is rad as hell!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Marshall Amp (5.11b)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: If you a intimidated by the bolt spacing, bring a few .75-#2 Camalot size pieces and you can add more protection if you like. There's even a thread for a sling before the anchors. It's plenty safe and you're on easy terrain between the bolts, but there are plenty of placements that I noted along the way. Get on this thing, its fun!


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Margalef : ... : Estilson (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Although it climbs like a trad route, and might go on gear, it's bolted. The moves into and through the overhanging crack system are fun!


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : The Hot Zone : Amplification (5.13a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: As of 9/22/13, the flake at the end of the initial boulder problem is about ready to come off. It used to flex a bit, but this is more that it used to. There are cracks at the base and you can see it moving and hear it cracking once you complete the sequence and lung to it. Needs some serious amount of glue behind it before this route becomes much harder and possibly injures someone.

Also, the bolt that's 2 above this section is coming out. More than just a spinner, the rock's erodin... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Box Canyon : The Gravity Well
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: This area goes into the shade around 12:30 in the summer.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Choss Cave : Hybrid (5.12d)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Moves right on the rail and then up to Chostakovich anchors.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : The Erratic : Queen of hearts (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Hard move at the bulge after climbing through the vertical pockets. Finding the proper feet for the deadpoint is challenging.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Back in the Saddle (5.10c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Good, but sharp!


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Saddle Tramp (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Climbs like a trad climb until the undercling flakes end. Then, it's a thin boulder problem to the finish.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Isolation Wall : Isolation (5.12c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Maybe the best piece of rock that I've climbed on in AF. So good!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : No Remorse (5.10b) : Photo
By: Jeremy Steck When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Looks pretty good to me. The right one looks like crap though.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Frontera : Captain Bullet (5.13a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: As of 7/21/13, the key crimp at the crux is severely loose. If climbing this route, DO NOT put your foot on the crimp as you approach the chains. I'm working on getting the goods to sure up the hold. UPDATE: Too late, its busted. When I showed up to glue the hold, it was gone. It still goes...but quite a bit harder now as the smallest hold on the route is now half the size of what it was.


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