Comments: Try very hard not to fall while gaining the anchors. It's probably only 5.6 thorough this last 20ft but would generate a pretty long fall. The rest of the route is fairly sustained and drifts sideways in a couple of cool spots.
Comments: DO IT! Awesome warmup. Great for a 5.9 leader. Tons of bolts. Plenty of rests along the way. My 70m ends up with a foot or 2 extra after rope stretch is gone. Every 60m I've ever used on it gets right around maxed out to the low anchors.
Comments: I think we did the first pitch of this route today, not knowing what it was. My partner led and set up an anchor with some gear. There were not anchors on the first big ledge at 55' for this one, but there were lots of places for gear. It's pretty easy to rap down off of the anchors for Coleman Direct if you chose to just do the first pitch. We thought it felt around 5.6 and was pretty fun.
Comments: Fun little spot. 2 or 3 stars for the grade/area. The crack doesn't start to get super cool until the last few moves. Easy to protect wherever you decide that you want protection along the way. This would be a good first lead for the aspiring trad leader as long as you have a few larger pieces.
Comments: The first route we did at Staunton. This route is SO good! I placed a medium-sized nut in a slot 10ft off the deck on the way up to the first bolt to avoid a possible broken ankle. A stick clip would definitely feel better. The route has such a fun variety of holds and stays pretty sustained for the most part. Great movements and humbling bolt placements on this beautiful climb. CLIMB THIS ROUTE!
Comments: We did the first pitch of this route today, not knowing what it was. My partner led and set up an anchor with some gear. There didn't seem to be any anchor bolts for this one. There is a huge, relaxed ledge at the top, and it's pretty easy to rap down off of the anchors for Coleman Direct if you chose to just do the first pitch. We thought it felt around 5.6 or 7 and was pretty fun.
Comments: Super fun route. Completely different than the rest of the Catslab lineup. The scare factor is definitely in effect. Still a little dirty in spots. 2 or 3 loose rocks along the way, but the holds are huge and solid when you need them to be. This route is probably 10a or b if you are on the taller side, but I could see it being 10d for someone short. Lots of reaching opportunities. I thought that going left/straight at the top felt much more comfortable than the possibly easier climbing to the fa... more >>
Comments: The Canal Zone could always use more routes as it's often a circus in the summer, even on weekdays. That being said, this is not a bad route. I thought that most of it was 5.8ish except 1 or 2 moves toward the top, getting to that big chalked up V-shaped hold. Going off to the left through the bush is also possibly an option but may or may not be easier and just seemed dirty to me. Cool addition overall! Thanks, bolters!
Comments: Did this route (kind of) for the first time today. We started on the Great Zot. Awesome. Linked p1 and p2 to the eyebolts which only left about 4ft of extra rope out of our 70m. P3 was so-so. After the 4th pitch traverse/crack thing (which was pretty incredible), we somehow started the 5th much too far to the left and accidentally got on a different arete (about 40ft left of Rebuffat's) with some loose rocks. The arete was spectacularly scary, sharp, and runout but proved to be one of the cooles... more >>