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Member Since: Jun 14, 2012
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 14,098
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: JeffL When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: The beginning of the first pitch was not obvious to me. I think I was too far right? At any rate it was chossy and dirty. Is there scrambling required to get to the thin hands crack and beginning of the route?


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : The Dihedral (5.6)
By: JeffL When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Felt like 5.7+ to me, falls were not clean as mentioned above. It's not really a crack climb, I used more liebacking and face climbing. I'd highly recommend Crazy Alice over this climb if you feel confident at 5.8 and are looking to jam


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: JeffL When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: The rap bolts at the top of pitch 5 move a little bit, I felt okay with them but someone more qualified should check them out with how much traffic the route gets.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.10a/b)
By: JeffL When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: There is a left facing just before the last pitch or two of traversing to the rappel bolts. Do not go up the steep crack! We did two 5.10 pitches to top out, but ended up bailing back down because there was no walk off or access to the North Dome that we could find.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge
By: JeffL When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: There is a rappel approach described in the book, here is the beta from personal experience. The hardest part is the first 3rd class scramble. There is a cairn marking the chimney or 4th class part just before the rappel bolts. We fixed a line and rapped the chimney with our packs, but down climbing and lowering packs would be ideal. Make sure you have a 60m rope to hit the ground, 70m is better for comfort as you can rappel past some scrambling. Watch for nettles as you pick up a trail and... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: JeffL When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday. I thought the technical crux was on the first pitch and the psychological is the 1200 feet of unroped slab to top out. There are bear lockers at Little Yosemite Valley. If you get a permit you can hike 4 of the 6 mile approach the day before.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (5.10+)
By: JeffL When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: Amazing flow and well bolted. This it's the best single pitch sport route i have ever climbed! The approach is long but beautiful!