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Member Since: Jun 14, 2012
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 12,902
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 137 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts 119 | Stars 4 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2)
By: JeffL When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I did this as my first wall. Mostly a bolt ladder. As stated above. Tricams, pink, red, blue, brown make the c2 pretty straight forward if you look at how the beta photo places it.

Metolius cams were money in some of the c2 pods, one pod in particular that super topo makes a big deal out of.

There was a missing pin on p3, only spot a hook is really needed. Seems like there's a free variation to the left to bypass this. DON"T USE CAM HOOKS.

Took us 13 hours, base to summit. Don't plan on... more >>


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake
By: JeffL When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: The approach beta is slightly off. Hike west, not east from the parking lot. It's the same major trail as the Ruth lake hiking trail. There is a wooden sign that says "climbing" where you leave the main trail.

Also, the routes are bolted but almost all of them would go on gear. Bring a rack of nuts, tricams, and small camalots if you're into mixing things up a bit.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Bridge Area : Taking the Bullet (5.11a)
By: JeffL When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Very fun route! Endurance fest and fun movement. Lots of bolts spin on this route. Bring something to tighten them! Also, the anchors bolts are placed in a staggered orientation. Bring a double length sling or some cord to equalize them if you plan on TRing. Two quickdraws are not ideal on this anchor.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Bridge Area : The Tiger's Revenge (5.10d)
By: JeffL When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route with fun movement! The first bolt needs to be tightened! The hangar fell off when my partner weighted the rope. I was able to find the nut and tighten it with my fingers, but if you have a wrench bring it! Also, "Taking the Bullet" Just right of here needs several bolts tightened.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: JeffL When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: For some reason I thought you could rap this with a single 70m rope... Maybe the above poster speaking of an anchor 20-30 feet below the summit would work, but you won't make it to the belay ledge from the summit rap. We downclimbed... 5.4 exposed with huge consequences. There's also a bolt at the ledge that you do reach (15-20 feet short of the anchors) for the bolted route that goes up the north face. If you wanted to leave a locker or do some sort of shenanigans that would be possible. D... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Mystery Machine (5.10b/c)
By: JeffL When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: This thing is so GOOD! Do the first pitch of railroad tracks and walk all the way back on a good ledge to the chimney with a crack on the right. I found a .4 camalot handy. You will definitely want three #3 camalots. I only had two and had an exciting runout to the chains. The rest of the gear listed here is accurate. The person who said this was their favorite route was spot on. The crack is a little sandy because not many people climb it. Keep an eye out for loose rock and defini... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: JeffL When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Amazing route! I brought a single rack green alien to #4 camalot, with a 2nd #2 and an 11 hex. I was very happy to have and place the hex. Nothing else was needed, though you could walk a 5 for a ways in the chimney if you aren't comfortable. Once in the chimneys and once at a gear belay just after the last anchor in the guidebook (not supertopo). The last anchor shown in the guidebook before scrambling is missing the bolts. There's only 1 left, and it's not all that great. Yo... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: JeffL When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: The beginning of the first pitch was not obvious to me. I think I was too far right? At any rate it was chossy and dirty. Is there scrambling required to get to the thin hands crack and beginning of the route?


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : The Dihedral (5.6)
By: JeffL When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Felt like 5.7+ to me, falls were not clean as mentioned above. It's not really a crack climb, I used more liebacking and face climbing. I'd highly recommend Crazy Alice over this climb if you feel confident at 5.8 and are looking to jam


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: JeffL When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: The rap bolts at the top of pitch 5 move a little bit, I felt okay with them but someone more qualified should check them out with how much traffic the route gets.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.10a/b)
By: JeffL When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: There is a left facing just before the last pitch or two of traversing to the rappel bolts. Do not go up the steep crack! We did two 5.10 pitches to top out, but ended up bailing back down because there was no walk off or access to the North Dome that we could find.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge
By: JeffL When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: There is a rappel approach described in the book, here is the beta from personal experience. The hardest part is the first 3rd class scramble. There is a cairn marking the chimney or 4th class part just before the rappel bolts. We fixed a line and rapped the chimney with our packs, but down climbing and lowering packs would be ideal. Make sure you have a 60m rope to hit the ground, 70m is better for comfort as you can rappel past some scrambling. Watch for nettles as you pick up a trail and... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: JeffL When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday. I thought the technical crux was on the first pitch and the psychological is the 1200 feet of unroped slab to top out. There are bear lockers at Little Yosemite Valley. If you get a permit you can hike 4 of the 6 mile approach the day before.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (5.10+)
By: JeffL When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: Amazing flow and well bolted. This it's the best single pitch sport route i have ever climbed! The approach is long but beautiful!


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re: Big Gear Sale - Help Me Adopt!FOR SALE / WantedJeffLNov 1, 2014
re: Lowering off anchors, rehashhhhGeneral ClimbingJeffLOct 28, 2014
re: Simulclimbing - Minitraxion to protect leaderTrad ClimbingJeffLOct 22, 2014
re: Tips to improve efficiency FOR multipitch trad.Trad ClimbingJeffLOct 21, 2014
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