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Member Since: Nov 12, 2011
Last Visit: Jun 25, 2015
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Point Rank: # 1,653
Total Points: 398
Last Year: 60
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23 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 317 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts 6 | Stars 180 | Ratings 24
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertrip (5.7)
By: jeffblankman When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Did this the 2nd time yesterday and have to second that it is a REALLY enjoyable climb.

Did the "slab" variation at the top this time and really don't see, personally, what the fuss is about. Once at the bolt, it's so easy you could crawl up on hands and knees. I really think there is zero chance of a long fall past the bolt . . . unless you were to choose to do something really weird and stupid.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Traitor Horn (5.8)
By: jeffblankman When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Glad to have finally done this. Linked from Coffin Nail and it was a truly great experience.

We belayed ABOVE the short easy chimney for Coffin Nail and easily made the niche belay past the false horn with a 60m rope. Drag was not bad with good management at the angles: into CN dihedral, over CN roof, Traverse under horn.

I thought the moves through the niche and establishing on the lower part of the horn were stiffer than they appeared, but the the moves off the horn were no sweat. The expo... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Coffin Nail (5.7+)
By: jeffblankman When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Great climb w/link to TH. Belay high after the five-nuthin P1 and you can reach the alcove after the false horn with a 60m rope. We did, and drag was not bad w/thoughtful rope management.

W/good crack tech the lower "strenuous" crack section of P2 was a cruise, I thought. The "5.3" section (Vogel Guide) below the lieback was not bad, but stiffer than advertized IMO.

Knowing what I know now--how good the hands and pro are--I'd rest up at the amazing stance at the start of the lieback, then fire... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Super Roof (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: I thought this was great. Had to collect myself for a minute before committing to the corner. Some great fist jams and all the great feet make it go pretty easy, tho. Kept hands in the crack all the way, too. My follower had something hissing at him up in the roof crack. I'm glad I didn't hear it, or I think I may have called it a day!

The "getting there" description leaves a little to be desired: we wandered for some time, and were close on a few occasions without seeing it. Steve Canyon is fa... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Out on a Whim (5.10d)
By: jeffblankman When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Great climb.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Shelob's Lair (5.10b)
By: jeffblankman When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Been to the Gorge probably 40 times and this was the first time I ever ventured to the far lower-right of Middle Earth. This climb requires a somewhat complex and convoluted TR anchor if you don;t want a risky lead. Despite that, the climb is great. Loved the roof pull and tricky off-hands at the top.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Tombstone : Dog Leg Crack (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: Is there anyone out there with ANY beta on this climb at all?

I've wanted to try it for a while, but a vague description of an extended off-with at the top is disconcerting.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Barker Dam Bouldering : Gunsmoke Area : ... : Photo
By: jeffblankman When: Dec 5, 2014

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Comments: Didn't actually think turning the corner was the crux, personally. A lot easier than the two earlier cruxes with thin hands and big moves.

Was able to get a nice knee-bar in the pod just before turning the corner, which makes the moves pretty mellow and not too pumpy.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Stellar Walls : Unfinished Business (5.10d)
By: jeffblankman When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: I stupidly didn't check the knot in the end of the rope after rapping DD Arete and it got stuck at the chains. Luckily, with more than half of a 60m rope left, I was able to safely lead Little Chicken and JUST make it to the rap station for DD and retrieve the rope.

Not sure exactly how to start this climb. The description is a bit confusing. "Start on ledge as for Stellar Crack" . . . well, Stellar starts on the far right corner of the ledge, which didn't really seem to make sense for this ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Stellar Walls : Double Dragon Arete (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Slabby direct start adds another dimension to this climb. It's about to get more difficult though: Oct 5, 2014 when we did it there is an orangish flake that is a key hold. It is seriously flexing and going to come off soon.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Godzilla Buttress : Godzilla (5.10b)
By: jeffblankman When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Leave the big cams at home if you're confident placing nuts: the dihedral eats 'em up. Bring a full set of nuts and a few (4-5) cams fingers to small hands. Save the .75 cam to place up high in a nice crack above the bolts.

This is a "full value" climb--one of the longest in SD--with tons of variation in the climbing: dihedral, pulling a small roof on positive holds, desperate smearing/mantel, and some crack at the top!

I think it would also be possible to traverse left at the top of the dihed... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Roshambo Ledge : Roshambo (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: TRd this today for sake of time and to check it out: can't wait to get back and lead it. P2 is quality IMO, but I found it to be pretty easy at 5.9--finger locks aplenty and nice textured face out right (not too vertical) for feet. It would eat nuts. Lower crack on P1 including the "alt" to the chimney were pretty straight forward and would be easy to protect. I have pretty average (even smallish) hands and the initial crack seemed perfect size. Very textured and secure, if a bit bulgy/overhung.... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Roshambo Ledge : Rock Beats Death (5.8)
By: jeffblankman When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: Just did this route today and thought I'd add it to MP. Feel free to edit or suggest edits. We really just used it as an easy means to get to the top of the crag and walk off, rather than hiking back up and around, but I found the climb to be surprisingly enjoyable. I lead it onsight with a large and cumbersome backpack and it was still easy and pretty enjoyable.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera
By: jeffblankman When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: RE: the 4WD road over Los Pinos

It was not very bad at all IMO. No real skill at off-road driving needed. A bit bumpy and a few scattered rocks and ruts, but I think even a slow and measured 2WD vehicle with decent clearance could make it. Of course, different story if it's rained recently.

From the saddle down the Espinoza road is not bad, either, until right before (2 min walk) the use trail to the toe of the crag (S Buttress route).


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera : Main Wall : South Buttress (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Agreed. Pitch 1 is surely a physical grovel, but I found P2 to have "harder" moves and scarier pro (maybe because I was leading that one). Even the moves (lieback) off the belay up the initial wedged flake/crack of P2 were heady for me. Not great pro options (inless you want to place where the best hands are) and very awkward to place. My savior was a solid nut in a small constriction in the thin crack to the left about 2 feet or so up the first flake. The wideness above sux, too. I used some po... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera : Main Wall : Sunset Streaks (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Super-clean, super-fun climb. The crazy nature of the incut features (like someone used a tile saw to cut handholds/steps) had me literally laughing at times, with a wide grin plastered on my face. The bouldery moves on the last pitch right below the top were my favorite. As far as the "deck potential" re: the first moves off the 2nd and 3rd belays: yeah, it's there, but you're really not all that high up. Not too much to sweat about IMO. We also linked Ps 1/2 and 3/4 w/60m rope.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Apostrophe (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: If you want a bigger challenge, go all passive pro on this climb: It eats up nuts, offsets especially. Hexes protect the wide crack and horizontal before the offwidth, and even the offwidth itself.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome Area : Daff Dome, Main Area : West Crack (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: QUESTIONABLE RAP ANCHOR? NEED REPLACEMENT? I'm not an expert on rap anchors, but on 8/13/13 the old iron ring style smash link that attaches the rap chain to the left bolt/hanger on the 2nd rap station is not fully closed. To me, it looked like it would be possible for it to slip out of the hanger, given the right (wrong) weight and direction. Someone with more experience and knowledge about rap anchors should check it out.

On another note, what a great climb. We lucked out arriving at around 1... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Stonewall Squeeze (5.8)
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Don't know if I'd concur that this climb requires a "standard rack". To me, that's nuts and single cams from #.3 - #3.

The very bottom portion of the crack is very wide. I couldn't even get a C4 #4 in until a good 15 feet up the crack, and the start of the crack is already a good 15-20 feet up on a sloping ledge. Not a good place to fall.
This weekend, at the bottom of the wide squeeze crack there was a small flake with a dyneema sling stuck behind it on the face to the right ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Sierra Club RCS Railing rou... (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Somewhat awkward lead, but easily protectable. I found moving left/up to the finger crack near the top to be the crux (don't position too high), but was well-protected with a Yellow Master Cam in a pod within the finger crack.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Armed and Dangerous (5.10) : Photo
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Not sure if this is the "original" line, but the one we took. None of the photos/descriptions I've seen or read really give much detail. . .

-Start on the grey/orange rounded face on top of the boulder above Babies and just left of the Left Chimney (behind/under my right-most shoulder in the photo)
-Move up and left towards a thin fingers crack that goes up and left (see my left-most ear in the photo). Delicate balancey moves here.
-Thin fingers turn to a nice rail for a few feet then move up i... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Babies on Fire (5.9) : Photo
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: The upper crack is the one identified by a long tear-drop shaped shadow in it, directly below the climber,


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Babies on Fire (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday. Careful, there is quite a bit of friable rock. No huge chunks ready to fall, but little flakes and edges, Could be easy to blow a hand/foot hold so inspect first. Careful with pro placement, too.

Bolt and hanger below the roof both looked good.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Armed and Dangerous (5.10)
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: LOOSE ROCK: After getting to the easier upper portion of this climb, just above the hand cracks and into the juggier part there is a dinner-plate sized flake to climber's right that is flexing really loose and will come down soon. It's right where you want to grab, too, and is directly above where your belayer will be. BE CAREFUL!


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Armed and Dangerous (5.10)
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Not sure why this climb is not more highly rated! I enjoyed it immensely. It is definitely more thoughtful and balancey than the Squeeze or Babies, but there still is a lot of varied movement (including a sweet little layback) on high quality rock.

I only TRd it, but sussed out pro on the way up. Except for the very bottom, I think it would protect alright. A bit of a "high ball" start, followed by good opps for plenty pro in the horizontal crack/rail. The flared crack/dihedral above that may ... more >>


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