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Member Since: Nov 12, 2011
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,630
Total Points: 358
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 239 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 58 | Page Improvments | Comments 28 | Posts 8 | Stars 119 | Ratings 24
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Godzilla Buttress : Godzilla (5.10b)
By: jeffblankman When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Leave the big cams at home if you're confident placing nuts: the dihedral eats 'em up. Bring a full set of nuts and a few (4-5) cams fingers to small hands. Save the .75 cam to place up high in a nice crack above the bolts.

This is a "full value" climb--one of the longest in SD--with tons of variation in the climbing: dihedral, pulling a small roof on positive holds, desperate smearing/mantel, and some crack at the top!

I think it would also be possible to traverse left at the top of the dihed... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Roshambo Ledge : Roshambo (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: TRd this today for sake of time and to check it out: can't wait to get back and lead it. P2 is quality IMO, but I found it to be pretty easy at 5.9--finger locks aplenty and nice textured face out right (not too vertical) for feet. It would eat nuts. Lower crack on P1 including the "alt" to the chimney were pretty straight forward and would be easy to protect. I have pretty average (even smallish) hands and the initial crack seemed perfect size. Very textured and secure, if a bit bulgy/overhung.... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Roshambo Ledge : Rock Beats Death (5.8)
By: jeffblankman When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: Just did this route today and thought I'd add it to MP. Feel free to edit or suggest edits. We really just used it as an easy means to get to the top of,the crag and walk off, rather than hiking back up and around, but I found the climb to be surprisingly enjoyable.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera
By: jeffblankman When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: RE: the 4WD road over Los Pinos

It was not very bad at all IMO. No real skill at off-road driving needed. A bit bumpy and a few scattered rocks and ruts, but I think even a slow and measured 2WD vehicle with decent clearance could make it. Of course, different story if it's rained recently.

From the saddle down the Espinoza road is not bad, either, until right before (2 min walk) the use trail to the toe of the crag (S Buttress route).


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera : Main Wall : South Buttress (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Agreed. Pitch 1 is surely a physical grovel, but I found P2 to have "harder" moves and scarier pro (maybe because I was leading that one). Even the moves (lieback) off the belay up the initial wedged flake/crack of P2 were heady for me. Not great pro options (inless you want to place where the best hands are) and very awkward to place. My savior was a solid nut in a small constriction in the thin crack to the left about 2 feet or so up the first flake. The wideness above sux, too. I used some po... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera : Main Wall : Sunset Streaks (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Super-clean, super-fun climb. The crazy nature of the incut features (like someone used a tile saw to cut handholds/steps) had me literally laughing at times, with a wide grin plastered on my face. The bouldery moves on the last pitch right below the top were my favorite. As far as the "deck potential" re: the first moves off the 2nd and 3rd belays: yeah, it's there, but you're really not all that high up. Not too much to sweat about IMO. We also linked Ps 1/2 and 3/4 w/60m rope.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Apostrophe (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: If you want a bigger challenge, go all passive pro on this climb: It eats up nuts, offsets especially. Hexes protect the wide crack and horizontal before the offwidth, and even the offwidth itself.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome, Main Area : West Crack (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: QUESTIONABLE RAP ANCHOR? NEED REPLACEMENT? I'm not an expert on rap anchors, but on 8/13/13 the old iron ring style smash link that attaches the rap chain to the left bolt/hanger on the 2nd rap station is not fully closed. To me, it looked like it would be possible for it to slip out of the hanger, given the right (wrong) weight and direction. Someone with more experience and knowledge about rap anchors should check it out.

On another note, what a great climb. We lucked out arriving at around 1... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Stonewall Squeeze (5.8)
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Don't know if I'd concur that this climb requires a "standard rack". To me, that's nuts and single cams from #.3 - #3.

The very bottom portion of the crack is very wide. I couldn't even get a C4 #4 in until a good 15 feet up the crack, and the start of the crack is already a good 15-20 feet up on a sloping ledge. Not a good place to fall.
This weekend, at the bottom of the wide squeeze crack there was a small flake with a dyneema sling stuck behind it on the face to the right ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Sierra Club RCS Railing rou... (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Somewhat awkward lead, but easily protectable. I found moving left/up to the finger crack near the top to be the crux (don't position too high), but was well-protected with a Yellow Master Cam in a pod within the finger crack.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Armed and Dangerous (5.10) : Photo
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Not sure if this is the "original" line, but the one we took. None of the photos/descriptions I've seen or read really give much detail. . .

-Start on the grey/orange rounded face on top of the boulder above Babies and just left of the Left Chimney (behind/under my right-most shoulder in the photo)
-Move up and left towards a thin fingers crack that goes up and left (see my left-most ear in the photo). Delicate balancey moves here.
-Thin fingers turn to a nice rail for a few feet then move up i... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Babies on Fire (5.9) : Photo
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: The upper crack is the one identified by a long tear-drop shaped shadow in it, directly below the climber,


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Babies on Fire (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday. Careful, there is quite a bit of friable rock. No huge chunks ready to fall, but little flakes and edges, Could be easy to blow a hand/foot hold so inspect first. Careful with pro placement, too.

Bolt and hanger below the roof both looked good.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Armed and Dangerous (5.10)
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: LOOSE ROCK: After getting to the easier upper portion of this climb, just above the hand cracks and into the juggier part there is a dinner-plate sized flake to climber's right that is flexing really loose and will come down soon. It's right where you want to grab, too, and is directly above where your belayer will be. BE CAREFUL!


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Armed and Dangerous (5.10)
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Not sure why this climb is not more highly rated! I enjoyed it immensely. It is definitely more thoughtful and balancey than the Squeeze or Babies, but there still is a lot of varied movement (including a sweet little layback) on high quality rock.

I only TRd it, but sussed out pro on the way up. Except for the very bottom, I think it would protect alright. A bit of a "high ball" start, followed by good opps for plenty pro in the horizontal crack/rail. The flared crack/dihedral above that may ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Dwarrowdelf (5.8)
By: jeffblankman When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: Totally agree, Andre. The "flexing pillar" seems to me to be flexing even more now. Definitely avoid pro here, a fall could dislodge it. Wear helmets below.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Dolphin (5.7)
By: jeffblankman When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: Personally, I liked it. Heel-toe and arm-bar is the ticket in the OW. Managed to climb with an old Camalot 3.5 as biggest piece. Plugged it about a foot above the horn, waaaay back, and seemed solid enough. It was run-out, but as others have mentioned I didn't feel much risk of falling out of the crack.


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Blue Sky Wall : Bright Eyes (5.6)
By: jeffblankman When: Oct 26, 2012

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Comments: IF YOU LEAD THE ARCH VARIATION, WARNING ABOUT ROPE DRAG:

If you are not thoughtful about placements, you may experience heinous rope drag, as I did. In fact, the biner on my last piece of pro under the arch got wedged into the crack with the rope: made it to the first bolt after the chimney, but could not go on. Ended up setting a belay at the top of the chimney, but had to do an improv rap down to the arch again to get the rope unstuck.

I see two options for mitigating the rope drag (the crac... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Blue Sky Wall : Bright Eyes (5.6) : Photo
By: jeffblankman When: Oct 26, 2012

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Comments: Just lead this today and enjoyed it. We also experienced the heinous rope drag. In fact, the biner on my last piece of pro under the arch got wedged into the crack with the rope: made it to the first bolt after the chimney, but could not go on. Ended up setting a belay at the top of the chimney, but had to do an improv rap down to the arch again to get the rope unstuck.

I see two options for mitigating the rope drag (the crack under the arch as it turns the corner up into the chimney is almost ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Apostrophe (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Oct 6, 2012

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Comments: You can get a #3BD in the off-width at the top, just have to plug it back a ways and find the "sweet spot". Also plenty of space for gear before the transition to the crack from the pillar. #0 Metolious UL TCU lower, then #.3BD a bit higher, but both before the transition. I found that it protected really well the entire way with no "desperate" gear placements, either. Stances were all good. Really fun climb.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Left Chimney (5.7)
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Easy to protect with lots of placement options. This is an off-width, so take the 5.7 rating with a grain of salt. Climbs harder and with more effort, if you're not used to off-width.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Sierra Club RCS Railing rou... (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: The "harder" right variation did not seem to be really any harder.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Dwarrowdelf (5.8) : Photo
By: jeffblankman When: Jun 9, 2012

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Comments: Nice trad lead. Takes small C4 cams (.3 - .5) and medium nuts. Probably a little spicy for a beginner, but a really fun trad lead.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Sport Wall : Vitamin P (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: May 17, 2012

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Comments: Advice to be careful:

There is a large blocky boulder directly below the route that is only about 4-5 feet back from the wall. If you fall between the 1st and 2nd bolt (or while clipping) you are likely to hit this on your way to decking out.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Sport Wall : The Endorphinator (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: May 17, 2012

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Comments: Agreed, Josh.


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