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Member Since: Jun 2, 2006
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 1,772
Total Points: 376
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 5
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has adrenalated been climbing?










Contributions


All 788 | Routes 21 | Areas 2 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 96 | Posts 74 | Stars 406 | Ratings 181
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Ripcord (5.12a)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: Soft 12a, but I think that's a fair grade. May feel easier if you're about 6' or taller (or have an equivalent ape index).

Really fun, gymnastic movement! 4* moves but can only give it 3* because it's so short. I found it much easier to skip the 4th bolt, as it's a fairly strenuous clip and the fall onto the 3rd bolt if you don't stick the deadpoint is totally clean (I checked, several times).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Butt Luscious (5.11+)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: Does this discussion about each other's personalities and egos really belong in comments about a route? Take it to PMs.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rebuffat's Arete (5.7)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: A good pitch, but agree that it is a variation on an existing route and shouldn't be listed as its own page.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Pup (5.9)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: A stick clip is wise here.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Plan B (5.12b)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: "Relentless" is right on. I don't think there's a single move easier than about 5.11d for the first 60ft or so. Fantastic climbing.

I won't put a grade vote in until I redpoint it, but I'll say this: it's for sure every bit of 5.12b, and felt harder than many 12b's I've tried in Rifle, RRG, etc. In fact, having just been on Ten Digit Dialing a couple weeks ago, I'd say the hardest move on Ten Digit is harder, but this is more sustained.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Jungle Wall : Monkey Spunk (5.11a)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Aha. I knew I must be missing something....

I'll have to give this another go.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Storm Jumper Wall : Bucket Brigade (5.9)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Agree that 5.9 leaders should stick clip the first bolt.

Really fun. Feels like a gym route.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Upper Boulderfield Area : Lower Bulldog Cliff : The Other White Meat (5.8)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Well-protected, a good beginner lead.

The anchors are due for replacement.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Jungle Wall : Show Pony (5.9)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: I agree, this is a very nice route. It can be climbed by stemming the dihedral or by climbing the left face fairly directly.

There's a big block at about 3/4 height marked with an X that is loose and detached from the surrounding rock. It's big enough to kill someone and is the most obvious hold in that spot, so it could probably do with some crowbar lovin' on a quiet day.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Jungle Wall : Monkey Spunk (5.11a)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Unless I completely missed something, this rig is WAY harder than 11a at the 4th bolt crux. I saw no options other than a long and hard pull off a terrible sloping crimp/pinch (a hold much worse than anything on Ten Digit Dialing in CCC, which is 12c) or a 1-2ft dyno to a flat 3-finger edge. Much harder than either the crux pulls or dyno on Baba Fats, or the crux on Yabba Dabba Doo (both 11a). The rock is a bit friable in that section - did something break?

The roof was fun but very thuggy, see... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Storm Jumper Wall : Storm Jumper (5.10c/d)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: This is a really, really good route. One of the best I've done at The Pass.

I do think the moves getting up to and clipped to the first bolt are in fact 5.7, albeit devious, slippery, insecure 5.7. A stick clip is certainly not a bad idea. Immediately after clipping the first bolt, I agree that the final moves up the slab below the overhang are indeed 5.9+.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : 5.9 (5.9)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: I rarely say this, but I think this route would have been better if it ended at the ledge. The climbing above is not nearly as good IMO, either in the corner or on the arete.

Excellent warmup, though!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Pink Wall : Renounce Action (5.10a)
By: adrenalated When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: Shitty rock. Anchor still only has two quicklinks, which do not align properly and will twist your rope. Route is currently hard 5.10/low 5.11 but will probably change when (not if) more holds break.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Lake City Ice Park
By: adrenalated When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: Thinking about swinging by here on the way home from Wolf Creek next weekend.

I've dabbled a bit, but I'm a rock climber, not an ice climber. So we're just looking to screw around on TR, no interest in leading ice. To set up TRs here... what do I need beyond normal anchor stuff? One rope, two? Sounds like tree anchors - how far back are the trees/how much webbing do I need to bring to set up anchors?

Thanks!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : 50 Yard Dash (5.10a)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 12, 2010

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Comments: I thought the first clip is fine. Just be careful. It's like 5.6 to get to a clipping position.
I was glad to have the cam up higher, however. #3 Friend works great.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Iron Side Wall : Prospector (5.9+)
By: adrenalated When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: My rule for climbing vegetation is if you can hit it on the way down, you can use it on the way up. That said, using the tree isn't really helpful on this particular climb.

Clearly I'm in the minority, but I thought this was one of the best sport 10a's I've done anywhere.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Iron Side Wall : Glory Hole (5.12a)
By: adrenalated When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: Great movement! Doesn't get 4 stars only because the natural line of holds kinda leads into Twin Flakes in the middle... it's possible to climb directly, but doing so probably adds a letter grade (and another crux).

It could use a rebolting though, the bolts (as with most on this wall) are looking a little tired.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Iron Side Wall : Twin Flakes (5.10b)
By: adrenalated When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: Finishing directly over the bulge at the last bolt is still 10b, is more fun, and avoids the possibility of a pendulum lead fall. Finishing around left of the bulge is probably safer for topropers.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Face [Whale's Tail] (5.6 X)
By: adrenalated When: Jun 15, 2010

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Comments: I enjoyed this as a lead. Got more pro in than I expected to, but some of it was definitely marginal and there are definitely committing moves with ledge fall potential. Small gear only, I didn't use anything bigger than a 0.5 Friend. Master Cams work well.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: adrenalated When: Jun 9, 2010

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Comments: That last bit is pretty much 4th class anyway... no point in placing gear there and making rope drag even worse.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+)
By: adrenalated When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: So let's get this straight:
Mike Endicott, George Bracksieck, and Kevin Smyth climbed this in the late '70s. They may or may not have been the first to climb it. When they climbed it, it was likely loose/friable and generally not that good, so they didn't bother to record their ascent.

Later, Richard Wright and Tod Anderson came along, likely spent a LOT of time cleaning the crap rock off, and bolted it because, as far as they knew, nobody had ever climbed it, and it made a logical warmup cli... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Check Your Grip (5.12a)
By: adrenalated When: May 26, 2010

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Comments: 5 stars on a 4 star scale. Do this route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: adrenalated When: May 26, 2010

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Comments: My friend had his draws stolen off Anarchitect in the last few days.
Details here
Please get them back to him.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall
By: adrenalated When: May 26, 2010

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Comments: My friend had his draws stolen off Anarchitect in the last few days.
Details here
Please get them back to him.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge
By: adrenalated When: Feb 9, 2010

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Comments: I believe you can still camp at Miguel's during the winter, but there's no water, bathrooms, or trash disposal. Fortunately, the rest area is not far away and has all those things. Don't quote me on that though.


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