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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Crack (5.11c)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fantastic route. Had the pleasure of whipping on my OS attempt right at the crux, on a brand new Camalot X4! I had trouble finding a belay without running it out up the left side East Ridge for a while, which produced an undesirable amount of rope drag. If you can muster up the strength to add a sling on your last piece before monkeying over the crux lip, do it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : East Ridge (5.10)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an adventure! Although for me (5'8"), the third pitch crux getting past the fixed pin felt much harder than anything on the first pitch crack, which went quite smoothly and felt 5.10a/b. The third pitch is spicy in general with (beta ahead) the weird underclinging/hand traversing between 2nd & 3rd bolts. A fall would not be fun at that part at all. In general, an excellent climb with strange green pools at the summit and a crazy/wild rappel off the top!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directississima (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: May 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite a difficult, pumpy climb - the sequence off the 1p ledge is tough, with gear that isn't fantastic and a finger lock depending on a loose stone lodged in a notch. I took a whipper on my onsight attempt at this part, as my hand popped right out of the hold. I give this climb a solid 4 stars; the climbing up the high E buttress is simply spectacular although I have no shame in calling "Doubleissima" a hard 5.10.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Left Side (5.9+)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The only part where this is above 5.9, in my opinion, is the very beginning of the crux pitch cranking into the black streak crack/slot system. The rest, is absolutely incredible climbing with tricky moves, amazing exposure, and good pro. I'm not sure why there are bolts behind the tree with the cord, it doesn't allow you to reach the ground after two raps. I rapped off the bolts under the roof at the top of the last pitch and got back to the ground with three raps.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Raise your hand if you cranked off the single digit pocket after the tree on the first pitch! What an awesome route; the 5.9 pitch can be lead using only stoppers.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Curving Crack (5.9)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Sep 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux section takes small gear (<0.4 C4), and one of the best holds is also one of the better placements, so that was a bummer for me on lead as I couldn't crank off of it. But the liebacking and stemming is great fun. Come on, 5.9? More BC sandbaggin', I have no problem giving this a 5.10a for my on-sight.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Infestation (5.9)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a wasp nest right next to the anchor for Infestation and Monte Carlo. Be careful.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : East Crack (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't bring enough small gear for this route, so for me the protection was poor. But the corner at the beginning is definitely runout with injury fall potential. Also there is a loose rock at the top of the last pitch (end of the 5.7 crack) that could easily come out and cause trouble.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : West Crack (5.9+)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Aug 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I liked this route a lot, pretty much solid liebacking all the way up, also kind of burly moves. Much harder than West Face on lead, I would give this one a 5.10a. BTW, my friend who cleaned caused my #0.5 Camalot C4 to walk into a crack and not return. If you find it and feel like doing a good deed, holler at me. I would greatly appreciate it. Otherwise it's yours and it's certainly not a lost cause for someone with small fingers :)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Twofers (5.8)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed it today & there was no bird nest that I could see. Super fun.
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Location: CO : Mobile Apps: Completely Fre...
By: Jeff McLeod When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you so much. Is there any more info about the annual contribution?
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