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Member Since: Aug 4, 2012
Last Visit: Mar 15, 2014
Contact Jeff Edge


Point Rank: # 5,500
Total Points: 59
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (136) | Routes (2) | Areas | Photos | Comments (39) | Posts (1) | Stars (89) | Ratings (5)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Zoo : Monkey in the Middle (5.11b)
By: Jeff Edge When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Somebody chalked "Wasp at anchors" at the start, but I didn't find any. Although there were a few buzzing around off to the left a little bit, I guess they must've moved. Great route, technical crux seemed to be right at the start


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Zoo : Jail Bird (5.10d)
By: Jeff Edge When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Maybe not as stiff as edgehogs (I didn't do it), but felt waaay harder than Armadillo to me. And of course it doesn't even compare to the other routes at the cliff seeing as they are apples and bananas in styles (funny how that works)


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff : Blade Loafer (5.10b)
By: Jeff Edge When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Kelly Brown's guide lists this is 10c which seems about right but I mean it's one grade who cares anyway. Usually has a good bit of chalk on it whenever I pass by, some parts do stay pretty slick and green though (non-crucial parts) but that's just because it's in a wet area not because it isn't popular.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff : Ivy League (5.10b)
By: Jeff Edge When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: In Kelly Brown's guide this route is switched with Poison Ivy. In his guide Poison Ivy is listed as the route just left of the bolted crack (Krieg Crack 11d). The consensus on here seems to be the opposite. Regardless, this route is the one with the beach ball/ saddle like feature at the start and it seems to be about the same in difficulty as the other 10c routes at the cliff. Although the crux sloper move is harder in the humidity and/or when its covered in spiders.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff : Poison Ivy (5.11b)
By: Jeff Edge When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: In Kelly Brown's guide this route is listed as "Ivy League" 11b..which I think explains the beach ball confusion. Ivy League, in his guide is listed as Poison Ivy 11a.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Undercling Right (5.8)
By: Jeff Edge When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Felt about as hard as the ArÍte hahah, still only one bolt up there, set a TR solo redirected with a clove on the single bolt...definitely not ideal.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Blues Riff (5.11b/c)
By: Jeff Edge When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: @Greg Barnes - the bolted anchor to the right of blues riff/Phobos topouts drops down about 10 ft to the right of the second pitch anchor of blues riff right at the end of a single 60, it shouldn't be hard to see and it's an easy swing over


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : The Second Coming (5.8)
By: Jeff Edge When: Jun 18, 2013

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Comments: 10a finish was legendary, pitch before it was actually really fun too. Tried the 10d finish after(or so I thought, the crack just left of the 10a) but it didn't feel any harder than the 10a fingers, might've been the wrong crack though. Good route overall, cool place...ended up walking through the towers somehow on the way out...I can feel the cancer in my body already


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Elysian Buttress : Isle of Fortune (5.10-)
By: Jeff Edge When: Jun 18, 2013

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Comments: Tried this a little over a week ago, assuming I was on the right route it went something like this: 30ft scramble up 3rd class to poor sloping belay stance (optional) then an awkward start on incredibly chossy rock (I put a cam in one of the pockets just above the deck to keep me from rolling down the scramble if I came off). Then you can either pull the 10a crux move with no gear or put something in the loose flake you're lie backing. I chose the former, you then get some decent gear for the ea... more >>


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : Liposuctor (5.11b/c)
By: Jeff Edge When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: Not bad for clean aid practice either (maybe C2, final traverse towards anchors can get wild..watch for stuck aiders in the deep crack lower). Super fun free, many perfect jams and really didn't feel all that hard (despite the intimidation factor from the ground...and climbing in the middle of the night.. but that's pretty avoidable). Good route, based on the spider webs it seems like it doesn't get climbed as often as it probably deserves.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek
By: Jeff Edge When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: @Jeff sorry this is a little late, but whenever I got to Little Clear I just take my shoes off and wade (but there could be a better way I don't know about!). I did it this past January (brr!) and the water was frigid but totally worth it, you just gotta choose between wider and shallower or narrow but deeper.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The First Corridor
By: Jeff Edge When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Climbed the next route to the right of Booty Route, felt like mid to upper 10 (c/d maybe?). Crux was definitely easier than booty route's, anybody got any actual info on this climb? Just curious what I am climbing. You can put it on TR if you rap to its anchors from the anchors to booty route.
Also curious what the next few routes immediately to the right are, looked at them but didn't end up getting on any. Any info?


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Elephant Head (& Hyperi...
By: Jeff Edge When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: There are 2 routes to the left of Amarillo by Morning I climbed Saturday, the one immediately to the left felt easy-mid 11ish (admittedly more on the easy side once I got the moves worked out), the one to the left of that felt like maybe 5.9 and shared anchors with a route one more to the left that looked even easier.

Anybody know anything about these? Or what the "11" actually goes at?


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The First Corridor : Unknown 5.11a (a.k.a. the B... (5.11a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Pretty neat, did it at the end of the day Saturday. This is actually the second line of bolts on that side of the canyon the first line is something that felt 5.7ish. If you're OK making a 40 or so foot run (basically solo) you can get to the anchors for this (and the other climbs) up some 5.easy above the top of that first route on the left.

Also, those 4 bolts no rings look like highline bolts rigged to go to the egg, haven't been to the top of the egg to see if there's any matching so I don... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Hidden Cliff : Against the Grain (5.10b)
By: Jeff Edge When: Apr 9, 2013

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Comments: I seem to remember three bolts (climbed this past weekend) first two were pretty new, third was more lackluster. Interesting move getting to the crack


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Roadside Crag : ... : My Side of Roadside (5.7)
By: Jeff Edge When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: As of Jan 9th 2013 the anchor bolt was still missing and the other was still super wiggly, didn't notice beforehand since I was climbing in the dark oops...


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Image Wall : Shadowhawk (5.9)
By: Jeff Edge When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: Getting onto/around that big block at the start is always harder or more awkward than I remember... First time I led this was a long time ago, and only got on it to get my draws back after I bailed off of Spawn due to me being a total noob back then, and my partner even newer. Great route though, certainly one of the better 9s around, and climbing high is fun for a lot of us even if it doesn't "add" anything.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Image Wall : Coco Puffs (5.7)
By: Jeff Edge When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: Always harder than I remember it being, usually just do it for old time's sake while I'm here. Fun route for anyone, really.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : The Balcony : Jungle Gym (5.7)
By: Jeff Edge When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: Could never find this route when I looked, going to try the directions on here next time...


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff : Dirty Deeds (5.10a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: Slept in hammocks right across from the base of this climb last summer, great spot and awesome swimming hole down past the bridge. Climbs not bad either, nor its neighbor.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : Squeeze Ledge : Glenn's Route 1 (5.10c)
By: Jeff Edge When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: All the bolts were lookin' pretty old, fun route though! Actually toproped it after leading the crack next to it, dodged the sketchy bolts.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : Squeeze Ledge : Lillian's Arete (5.8)
By: Jeff Edge When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: Epic view, epic exposure, awesome location. The real best seat in the house if you ask me!


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Little Clear Creek : Cornerstone Block : Hardly Started (5.7)
By: Jeff Edge When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: This climb (along with the others immediately surrounding it) stay wet a bit longer than everything else after rain (or just in the winter in general) due to them not having roofs. But, this one is still fine even wet thanks to the positive holds the whole way up.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Little Clear Creek : The Small Wall : B.A.M.F. (5.10c)
By: Jeff Edge When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: Very crucial piece of beta necessary to make this go at 10c! Once you get it, it will change your life. It was a very happy moment for me when I realized what a fool I had been, made the move, and changed my ways. All around great climbing experience in the middle of winter with the top holds full of water. I loved it, hope others have such a great experience as I did.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Little Clear Creek : The River Wall : Christian Criminal (5.9+)
By: Jeff Edge When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: Honestly thought this might be harder than Sweat Lodge, and certainly about the same as Roofus Doofus. My poor friends were not having happy about getting shut down on this "5.9" so make sure you note the "+" before dropping deeply in self-esteem.


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