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Member Since: Aug 29, 2007
Last Visit: Dec 9, 2013
Contact jbarnum


Point Rank: # 4,315
Total Points: 97
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has jbarnum been climbing?










Contributions


All 55 | Routes | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 9 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Handjacker (5.7+)
By: jbarnum When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: Right side in the whole way. Four large cams will do it. 2-5s 2-6s. Super fun.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Knothole (5.8)
By: jbarnum When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: A #5 can be placed from standing on top of a pointed block just before the difficulties. Then grunt up toward the horizontal on the left that will take gear since the crack is now too big for a # 6. This felt no harder than Handjacker.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : ... : Photo
By: jbarnum When: Mar 30, 2012

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Comments: Sweet Jesus!--wow, please take away the knives--- and what's with the extra loop of green webbing? What is that doing?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : ... : Photo
By: jbarnum When: Mar 30, 2012

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Comments: Ok--quicklinks--cool. Powerpoint--check. Cut sling with slippy knots? Who ordered that?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : ... : Photo
By: jbarnum When: Mar 30, 2012

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Comments: Better--but not great. Quicklinks - Yes. How about a power point, so if one side fails the thing will still hold?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : ... : Photo
By: jbarnum When: Mar 30, 2012

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Comments: Death Triangle--glad it's gone.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-M... (5.4 C1 R) : Photo
By: jbarnum When: Mar 23, 2012

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Comments: I have that piton now--sits on the mantle


Location: Tristan Higbee : Misc Pics : Photo
By: jbarnum When: Feb 20, 2011

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Comments: I have seen those anchors as well. Looks like two sets. Sun bleached anchors. Any word? Wanna check it out?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: jbarnum When: May 3, 2010

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Comments: Tombo,

This route has certainly changed in that spot. Having been on the route in 2008 and 2009 I have noticed changes in the crux. The ledge prior to the crux initially had a false belay, bolts directly down into the ledge. The following year, those bolts were gone, and my partner swears the ledge is further away now from the first placement. He performed the first move without hooking and was able to place the Metolius Orange while standing on the ledge. When I was the up there the follo... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge
By: jbarnum When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: Better come to a consensus on these bolts and future bolts. Recently up there, and the hangers are gone, with the bolts still present. Soon, with these antics, the bolt threads will be damaged, leaving an unusable bolt, or a spinning hanger. Also not having a hanger leaves the rock surrounding the bolt more prone to erosion in this softer rock. Why not form a group to decide where bolts are appropriate, and where not. Where can anchors safely be made, and where a bolt could be justified. A... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: jbarnum When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: The nonsense continues. Out there yesterday to find several of the live trees at the campground chopped down, leaving 4ft high stumps all around. I imagine who ever did this was too lazy to gather some of the hundreds of dead trees/logs scattered throughout the nearby area due to the fire. There was also pieces of furniture broken up, also being used in fire pits. Does any one know when another clean up day is? With out some more love, a few will spoil it for all.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge
By: jbarnum When: Nov 7, 2009

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Comments: Jeff,

They did not bolt the roof, but a set to climber's right, and another set to the left, in addition to the bolts that were already there. I am surprised the roof was not bolted, since that also seems to be the more timely anchor to build. I agree, the more traffic an area sees, the more likely we are to have people that will abuse it. Two recent fire rings were also evident. An area like this, while not destination, should have its tradition and ethics be respected. I am not one to cho... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge
By: jbarnum When: Nov 6, 2009

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Comments: Up there yesterday. Someone has been busy. New bolts across the top, so new the drill dust was still there. Two new sets, and a replacement/refurbish of the existing set. It was nice to get more climbing in and move from bolted anchor to bolted anchor without having to fiddle with gear. I understand the debate between pro and fixed gear, but I personally do not have an opinion on bolts in this particular area. Perhaps with the addition of bolts the area will see more traffic, and some people d... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: jbarnum When: Sep 14, 2009

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Comments: Climbed this past weekend. As stated before the exposure is exhausting, especially for those like myself that get out less than others.

Link up the initial bolt ladder and chimney. Then the C2 pitch, then link the long bolt ladder through the roof to the large ledge. Then free the mantle and funky chimney to the end. 4 pitches total, with 60m ropes. No need for nuts. But bring rivet hangers, cams, and lots of biners and slings. The initial bolt ladder has a long piece of white webbing dan... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: jbarnum When: Jul 8, 2009

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Comments: Was up there yesterday. The bolt has indeed moved, but I did not see a hole where the older bolt had been. The beginning is still as delicate as before. Or maybe I simply missed the new hole. There was a camp up there climbing, as there often is, and one of the counselors relayed that the previous bolt had indeed pulled out. Apparently someone pulled on the bolt, to prevent a fall, and it came out. Not overly surprising given the quality of rock in spots, and the number of times this bolt ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
By: jbarnum When: Jan 25, 2009

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Comments: After speaking with an employee at Neptune today, what exactly is the protocol for registers like this? It was up there last year, but obviously time has taken its toll. With these posts, it is only a matter of time before someone takes the register-(numerous registers have disappeared)-or damages the fragile papers while viewing it. One afternoon I was up there with other climbers and dare not tough the register for fear it would blow away in the constant wind.

Would anyone be opposed to... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: jbarnum When: Jan 16, 2009

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Comments: Was up in the Park, today and yesterday. Little to no ice at Loch Vale, basically all mixed. Overflow/Jewel Lake Ice stepped out and thin. Grinding out screws and dulling picks.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: jbarnum When: Jan 16, 2009

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Comments: If anyone is interested in the ice occasionally seen up and around Mary's Bust while driving towards Estes, I went and checked it out the other day. Unless it is a banner, flagship, fatty fat year, forget it. I am sure in thick times the flows would be nice, 3 flows with some mixed climbing and comfy belays, short approach. But right now in lean times, 3 little flows that might take a screw each. When we get the big dump along with other consistent snow storms, check back. Anybody else clim... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: jbarnum When: Dec 31, 2008

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Comments: 5.8 X---wow.

Please disregard ShawnB as an anomaly. This is a sweet climb and worth the time. The rap route makes it even sweeter. Please do not be swayed by a lengthy description of negativity. Get out there and climb this thing.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake Slabs (WI2-3)
By: jbarnum When: Nov 16, 2008

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Comments: Up there today---nice pieces of ice, in very fat. Lots of variations exist. I ran out of screws and options part way up, belaying in less than ideal circumstances. Bring extra webbing, some rock pro, and maybe a few more screws for that anchor, as you very well may need them. We descended on climbers' left after a few hip belays and slab rock down climbing. Better than going up and over, and walking around, but not ideal.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: jbarnum When: Nov 3, 2008

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Comments: Up there yesterday. Decided to go with the better judgement and bail, not risk being out there in a potential rain/lighting storm. I can only imagine the difficulties faced with a wet Fisher Tower. We did replaced the slings at the first belay, lower part of the chimney. It was becoming quite a rat's nest of webbing, unsightly and sun-bleached. Could really use some chains, and that goes for the first three belays we saw. We left some new cord, red in color, not easily seen, but you will w... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R)
By: jbarnum When: Oct 20, 2008

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Comments: Worth the time if you are in the Fishers, of course for the quintessential photo. We made the climb much easier, and fun, by stick clipping the piton from the good stance below. Pretty much unprotected until that point. We are not 5.11 R climbers, but were able to enjoy the moves (goes right to nice hands) and spectacular unusual summit. We left the stick in one of the chimneys on the front of the formation, for those Ancient Art climbers wishing to tackle another summit, like us.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: jbarnum When: Sep 3, 2008

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Comments: Climbed it today. Fun route, great scenery, could not ask for more in the alpine setting. Do your homework, get a map, know where you are going, maybe carry a route description. However the virtual paved highway to Sky Pond should prove to be helpful. After climbing the waterfall in the dark, stay close to the lakes until underneath Petit. A trail should be there, at the very least this should save you some trouble. Route is pretty clean, as solid as an alpine climb will get. Clean route, li... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Diagonal (5.9)
By: jbarnum When: Jun 8, 2008

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Comments: Best route on the rock. Will definitely do it again, and maybe try Al's suggestion. 70m rope comfortably makes it to the top anchors on Rambo Santa and beats the two previous uncomfortable belays. Do the first pitch. Let your partner have the roof. The first pitch is the business. #1-3 Camalot on the roof will sew it up.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Trois Pistoles (5.10a)
By: jbarnum When: Jun 4, 2008

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Comments: I am pretty sure we climbed this today. Still clipped the bolts, but a few variations exist, staying a little right, the moving left. Not 5.10a though. 8 or so.


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