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Member Since: Jul 2, 2008
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact jaysquared


Point Rank: # 4,097
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Contributions


All (285) | Routes (2) | Areas (1) | Photos (8) | Comments (19) | Posts (25) | Stars (219) | Ratings (11)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B
By: jaysquared When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Chris - how did you hear about this? If you were informed by park rangers, this might be a good opportunity for the WCA to step in and work with the management to create a sustainable solution.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Upper Block (V0)
By: jaysquared When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: A nice warmup for the area. There are a couple of variations, such as using the right arete or not, and only climbing the right arete.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Photo
By: jaysquared When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: This is about 1/4 mile north and one hundred feet east of the previous picture.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering
By: jaysquared When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: I can confirm for certain that the yellow dot was removed in the graffiti cleanup. If you look closely you might be able to see a patch of dead lichen on the rock where it once was. It made me think about how often graffiti is referenced as a landmark when navigating to climbing areas at the Lake..and then about how it's kind of useful...and then about how ugly it is..and then how we should remove it...and then how people are going to get lost. Apparently I was right.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp G : Hemophelia (V7-)
By: jaysquared When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Based on the description, it seems like this is just down climbing Coagulation. Are there any holds unique to this problem?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Bulbous Left (V5)
By: jaysquared When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: From the information I gleaned from trying it and reading comments on a photo from the Bulbous Left Center page, this starts on the same good hold at the base of the roof as BLC, but goes straight out to the left hand pinch and up, avoiding the crimp and V-shaped hold out right. It seems that this tops out to the left, perhaps by pulling around to the face instead of going straight up and manteling out of the roof. Seems like a very awkward eliminate.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Wednesday Nighter (V1)
By: jaysquared When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: This is located on the cliff band just left (when looking uphill) of Bulbous, but it around the corner. It's not visible from the scree between Bulbous and the cliff band.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Rail Gun (V6)
By: jaysquared When: Oct 22, 2011

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Comments: Anyone else not use the hold Ian in the video goes out to with his left hand as the first move on the problem? Also, starting a little lower is possible, with the first move being a right hand up to the starting hold used in the video. Sweet burly problem!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : Hogleg/Anchorpoint boulders
By: jaysquared When: Oct 9, 2011

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Comments: The boulders that the Dutchess, Duke, Loompa Land, Empty Space, Sharks Fin/Eagle Eye, and Snaggletooth are on are within eyeshot of the Half Dome boulder. There appear to be some good looking lines that have yet to make their mountainproject debute up there.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Empty Space (V2)
By: jaysquared When: Oct 9, 2011

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Comments: I'm assuming the detached block under the start holds is off?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : Hogleg/Anchorpoint boulders
By: jaysquared When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: You betcha. Another piece of graffiti on the same piece of rock was also removed.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : ... : Photo
By: jaysquared When: Sep 10, 2011

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Comments: I'll verify that Tom's beta is ironclad. Not really a match - right hand gaston, left hand into the blocky undercling, stand up. Not even one of the hard moves on the route that way.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Treehugger Boulder
By: jaysquared When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: If you walk straight up into the woods from this boulder you will be at The Stache Boulder


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Bird-Foot Buttress : Mother and Apple Pie (5.9)
By: jaysquared When: Aug 20, 2011

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Comments: If the corner is avoided all together, this definitely feels ~10a.


Location: WI : Rib Mountain
By: jaysquared When: Jul 19, 2011

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Comments: My understanding is that no policies have changed, and thus climbing is not allowed in all areas of Rib that are designated State Natural Areas (SNAs). I believe most, if not all, of the climbing is located in the area designated as a SNA. If climbers are trying to convince the DNR that we are responsible and respectful enough to warrant changing the current provisions that disallow climbing, the "just be low key" attitude is only going to be detrimental to prospects of future use and relations ... more >>


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff)
By: jaysquared When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: Just to clarify the directions....After turning onto highway 21, and once the rocks are visible in front of you, turn right on Petenwell Rd. After it dead-ends into another road, turn right again, and drive about .25mi, parking in a small pull-out on your left.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area
By: jaysquared When: Jun 9, 2011

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Comments: For what it's worth, NR 45.04 (1) (e) reads: "The department may, by posted notice, restrict climbing activities on any lands subject to this chapter. Notice of climbing restrictions shall be posted at the administrative office of the property and at the site where the climbing restrictions apply". To me, that means that if there is nothing posted at the office and the crag, it's open to climbing.

Also, most of the East Bluff is a State Natural Area, but NR 45.13 (1) (e) exempts it from the p... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario
By: jaysquared When: Aug 17, 2008

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Comments: Last week I drove from Toronto to Sudbury and was amazed by the amount of rock up there. Does anyone know about established climbing up there? I didn't see many obviously climbable faces from the road, but I'm assuming there's got to be something.

Anyone familiar with the area?


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Tectonic Wall : Plate Tectonics (5.9+)
By: jaysquared When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: Fun route, but I think it's closer to 50ft, not 70...