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Member Since: Jul 2, 2008
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact jaysquared


Point Rank: # 4,472
Total Points: 94
Last Year: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has jaysquared been climbing?










Contributions


All 285 | Routes 2 | Areas 1 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 19 | Posts 25 | Stars 219 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Blow-up

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (2)

Trad, TR, 60'

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Pedestal Buttress

Aug 5, 2011

Crack left of Leftwing

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c (5)

Trad, TR, 30'

WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall

May 14, 2011

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

El Chorro

Europe : Spain : Andalucia

Jul 10, 2010

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The "possum" on F4 Ledges

The "possum" on F4 Ledges

Midwest : Graffiti at Devil's Lake

Jun 24, 2012

This is the boulder that you seek

This is the boulder that you seek

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Super Slab Area

May 7, 2012

Follow the obvious crack

Follow the obvious crack

WI : Governor Dodge State Park : ... : Crack left of Leftwing (5.4)

Oct 16, 2011

Follow corner to roof, pulling over two large choc...

Follow corner to roof, pulling over two large chockstones to the finish

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Second Balcony (5.4)

Aug 5, 2011

Follow the crack and then break left on the horizo...

Follow the crack and then break left on the horizontal

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Blow-up (5.10b)

Aug 5, 2011

El Chorro

El Chorro

Europe : Spain : ... : El Chorro

Jul 10, 2010

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Mr. Bungle (5.8)

Jul 2, 2008

From the start

From the start

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : To Defy The Laws Of Traditi... (5.10a)

Jul 2, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B
By: jaysquared When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Chris - how did you hear about this? If you were informed by park rangers, this might be a good opportunity for the WCA to step in and work with the management to create a sustainable solution.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Upper Block (V0)
By: jaysquared When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: A nice warmup for the area. There are a couple of variations, such as using the right arete or not, and only climbing the right arete.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Photo
By: jaysquared When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: This is about 1/4 mile north and one hundred feet east of the previous picture.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering
By: jaysquared When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: I can confirm for certain that the yellow dot was removed in the graffiti cleanup. If you look closely you might be able to see a patch of dead lichen on the rock where it once was. It made me think about how often graffiti is referenced as a landmark when navigating to climbing areas at the Lake..and then about how it's kind of useful...and then about how ugly it is..and then how we should remove it...and then how people are going to get lost. Apparently I was right.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp G : Hemophelia (V7-)
By: jaysquared When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Based on the description, it seems like this is just down climbing Coagulation. Are there any holds unique to this problem?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Bulbous Left (V5)
By: jaysquared When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: From the information I gleaned from trying it and reading comments on a photo from the Bulbous Left Center page, this starts on the same good hold at the base of the roof as BLC, but goes straight out to the left hand pinch and up, avoiding the crimp and V-shaped hold out right. It seems that this tops out to the left, perhaps by pulling around to the face instead of going straight up and manteling out of the roof. Seems like a very awkward eliminate.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Wednesday Nighter (V1)
By: jaysquared When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: This is located on the cliff band just left (when looking uphill) of Bulbous, but it around the corner. It's not visible from the scree between Bulbous and the cliff band.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Rail Gun (V6)
By: jaysquared When: Oct 22, 2011

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Comments: Anyone else not use the hold Ian in the video goes out to with his left hand as the first move on the problem? Also, starting a little lower is possible, with the first move being a right hand up to the starting hold used in the video. Sweet burly problem!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : Hogleg/Anchorpoint boulders
By: jaysquared When: Oct 9, 2011

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Comments: The boulders that the Dutchess, Duke, Loompa Land, Empty Space, Sharks Fin/Eagle Eye, and Snaggletooth are on are within eyeshot of the Half Dome boulder. There appear to be some good looking lines that have yet to make their mountainproject debute up there.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Empty Space (V2)
By: jaysquared When: Oct 9, 2011

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Comments: I'm assuming the detached block under the start holds is off?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : Hogleg/Anchorpoint boulders
By: jaysquared When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: You betcha. Another piece of graffiti on the same piece of rock was also removed.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : ... : Photo
By: jaysquared When: Sep 10, 2011

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Comments: I'll verify that Tom's beta is ironclad. Not really a match - right hand gaston, left hand into the blocky undercling, stand up. Not even one of the hard moves on the route that way.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Treehugger Boulder
By: jaysquared When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: If you walk straight up into the woods from this boulder you will be at The Stache Boulder


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Bird-Foot Buttress : Mother and Apple Pie (5.9)
By: jaysquared When: Aug 20, 2011

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Comments: If the corner is avoided all together, this definitely feels ~10a.


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