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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Birdie Party (5.10b)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Sep 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've been climbing a lot of 10's in the gunks and I found p2 of this one to be easiest than even 10a - it felt much more like 9. I found that the most difficult part was placing pro under the roof on p2 but the moves really didn't feel any harder than 5.8. Am I missing something? I'm not going to suggest a new grade but I'dd just like to see if I'm the only one?
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Flying & Drinking and Drink... (5.10a PG13)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Sep 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: TR'd this yesterday and LOVED it, the delicate climbing wandering all over the face is great, plus, the amazing jug haul at the end. I think im going to plan on leading this one if i can get enough small gear together to make it safe.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Barkeater Cliff : Eat Yourself a Pie (5.8)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Sep 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: haha what makes you say that worth! i kept it together hahaha, although i would, with confidence say that it was easier and felt safer to use the crack to the right of the alcove instead of climbing up into it. (green c4 at the beginning of the crack and make a run for it)
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Plumb Line (5.11a)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Aug 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route looks amazing, has anyone done the direct start yet?
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Long Play Wall : Long Play (5.10a PG13)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Aug 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: hey jay i wanna add this one to the list of routes we're gonna do in a day, i wanna get the lead on this one!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Rogers Rock : Little Finger Direct (5.8-)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Aug 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: lots of fun, after you pull the roof you get all these really cool discontinuous finger locks, there was a small crack i belayed from but im pretty sure i could've made it to the bolt anchors.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Empress (5.5 X)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Aug 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fantastic climb, but as the description says be sure that at the base of the X pitch begin straight up from the perch, do not traverse right to the fixed gear, if you do there are no feet and traversing into the main line is a little dicey. A great climb for someone solid on slab and solid in the mental aspect of climbing haha.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Clutch and Cruise (5.8)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Aug 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This may be my favorite route at the beer walls and i've done the better part of the classics there. This climb takes some creativity and some confidence, the jams are very good and if you get a little funky like me and corkscrew before the crux you can place the pro hands free. I had no problem doing this with one of each BD #2 and #3, also despite the description in the book i found the finish to be awesome, it was bouldering up a ladder.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Sword (5.6)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Aug 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I linked this pitch with redrum (not recommended) the 2 climbs were farther apart than i had anticipated but regardless there is a good ledge to setup a belay for sword from the top of redrum.Such a great climb but be weary of the weather on this one because it can heat up real fast on the exposed arete. Also the gear was great and the bolt seemed to be in perfect condition. Id say PG solely because falling on the sharp arete would suck.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Afternoon Delight (5.5)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Aug 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great warm up for the harder stuff, the pro is great and the climbing is steep and sustained but juggy, i thought i was in the gunks for a minute. On the stiffer end of 5.5, a great test piece for a beginning leader.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Tanager Face : Veracity (5.10a)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Aug 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: fantastic route, really delicate but a pumper at the end. there's some mandatory crack skills required for this one.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Jul 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: hopefully someone will post a winter version of the trap dike, im trying to gain some knowledge on the best time of season to go for it (avoiding avalanche) ive heard its a fantastic winter ascent
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Hesitation (5.8 R)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Jul 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great climb despite the lacking rock quality, the first pitch is an okay off with up to the scary belay station (suggest re slinging the chock stone and clocking in some community service)the crux on p2 is very insecure and well protected around the corner but long runners are a must, once you pull up on the slab on p2 its a cake walk (dont bother looking for pro its not there). Then p3 is simply an approach pitch to the wonderful surprisingly pleasant off with into finger inside corner on p4.... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Feast of Fools (5.10b)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is so awesome! It's pretty wild how isolated you feel once you're under the first massive roof. Once you commit to it and get on top, the real crux is juggy and just a little awkward. Also, I'd suggest against placing gear in the flake on the first roof, seeing how it's not actually attached to the cliff.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Maria Direct (5.9)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found that after clipping the pin and backing it up, your belayer needs to pay very close attention. If you fall climbing up to the next placement, you're likely to deck if the belayer has too much slack out. Aside from that, the rest of the route is pleasant and Maria was spectacular. Doing the Direct was an easy choice for me because I hate traversing. I'd recommend this route if you can keep it together through the start.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Son of Easy O (5.8)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Jul 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The huge roof had me pretty intimidated from the ground, but the real business is down low at the small crack. I didn't think much of the moves but they weren't very strenuous and very well protected. You get a fantastic rest before you embark on the steep journey to the beginning of the roof, but once you get up to it it has jugs in every dimension, and once you get into pulling the roof you have great feet out right to rock onto and it feels superb. Long runners under the roof are a must tho! ... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : City Lights (5.8-)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Jul 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: great climb but the pro on the second half had me taking a little extra care of my foot holds. i'm with the 5.7+
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Stirrup Trouble (5.10b R)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Jul 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: SO MANY CRUXES!!! All I'd add is to make sure you have a number 1 or 2 camalot for the top because tha'ts all you can get in before the final crux moves. But it's definitely not R. A green c3 is very useful for the beginning, even a purple you can get in before you start so if you take a spill you wont fall the 20 feet to the ground opposed to the boulder you start on. Just so many goddamn cruxes -- this is both a mentally and physically demanding route. AWESOME
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Cascade Lakes Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : The El (5.8)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: May 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: great route jsut make sure ur comfortable with traversing because p2 gets a little spicy after you pull around the arette. 3rd pitch is THE pitch for sure. very safe climb though.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Turbocharge (5.10a)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: May 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: great route, just make sure you bring up the yellow tcu for the pot off the deck and it helped miles to have the blue #9 bd stopper on a draw so you can pop it in during the crux to make it safe. well rounded route between difficulty off the deck then a mental crux at the top. there's small wires up there if you take you're time to look around.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Frosted Mug (5.9)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: May 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Soooooo good! I don't think the start is really R-rated because you can protect before the traverse, and once you hit the corner, the route is timeless. Don't let the R-rating scare you off this one, it is an easy move(maybe 5.5).
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Seven Ounces (5.7)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: May 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: a great warm-up pitch. All the jams are super good and comfy. You could do this thing in a downpour.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : Esthesia (5.10a)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Apr 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, a # 4 BD is a godsend on this thing--so much fun! Just the first 20 feet or so are a little unnerving until you hit the first jug to get something in. If you get really sketched off the deck, you should be able to fit a red C3 in the finger slot before you hit the first hand rail. but then you are short a hold.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : Zabba (5.13a PG13)
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Apr 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, so you can top-rope Zabba easily off of TR. I had just led TR a few weeks ago and thought about giving it a rip, but then left it for another day. Get on it! I know it's only seen a handful of ascents.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: Jaysen Henderson When: Apr 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: that's the scariest first lead ever.
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