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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : North Side : Pavilion Block Bouldering : The Traverse of the Gods (5.11 V3 Easy Snow)
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys should add this as a separate route. Traverse of the Gods Super Direct???
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Brinton's Crack (5.6)
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Marty, I think that the fact that it can be TR'ed is implied because it's at Devil's Lake.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Get It On (5.12c/d) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What you don't see are the menacing boulders right underneath him.
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : A Red Recollection (5.11a) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice send John.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous area (M... : Clusterphobia (5.10d)
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is the best route on the wall. It's much better than Armed and Dangerous, IMO. It also felt hard for 5.10d. The move at the start of the steep part requires 5.11 burl.
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Location: NH : Big Rock Cave : Sasha (5.11c/d)
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks really cool. Are there other lines there?
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Black Lung (5.8)
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Evan, were you on this route yesterday?
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Things Fall Apart (5.13-)
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another amazing send by the Famous Huston! Nice work, Jason.
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Location: MI : Munising : Grand Portal Point : Twilight (WI4+) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice colors!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Sometime Direct (5.10d R) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Either way, I'd say it was a bad hair day.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : The Talisman (WI6 M6) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic...the belayer is smoking a cig.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Beat Junkie (5.13b)
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To my knowledge, Beat Junkie was not led free on gear before Eric's FA. Maybe you're thinking of the Skewer, which was done on gear first.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : The Faux Pas Arete (5.11c)
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Steve.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out this cool video: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x4rcaj_quebec-ice-trip-engl>>>>>
It shows climbs at Frankenstein, Willoughby, Cathedral Ledge, and Pont Rouge
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley : The Spider's Web : Wheelin N' Dealin (5.13c R)
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congratulations Matt!
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Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Goldmember (5.12c)
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a very worthwhile extension. It is MUCH more straightforward than a lot of other Rumney 12's. It sort of feels like a little chunk of The Gallery at Red Rocks.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Son of a Great Chimney Dire... (5.12a) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, cool. Yet another excellent shot Kris.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Son of a Great Chimney Dire... (5.12a) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a unique perspective. Were you on the lake?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Donkey On My Mind (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Nick, nice lead. I didn't know you were leading 5.12 back in the 80's.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : Candidus/Frenchman's Fury (5.13b/c A3+)
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Jon, I agree with Conway. Better to leave the routes as-is once they have been freed. I am definitely biased towards free climbing, but I think that freeing an aid route creates a higher standard for all future parties.
Most people who free aid climbs have put an incredible amount of work into the climb. A few errant whacks with a hammer (not all aid climbers are as precise as you) could render all of that FA toil worthless. These new-wave free routes (Candidus, Cecile, etc.) are works of ... more >>
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bête Noir has been getting climbed lately. I've seen a number of people on it, though I haven't climbed it myself. It looks pretty cool, maybe a bit slabby.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Airation (5.11a)
By: Jay Knower When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Three days? Really?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Chiaroscuro (5.9+) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You call that a lead? Where I come from, we call that a solo.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Pound : Stone Wall (V2) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Misleading information? I feel that we're splitting hairs here.
At any rate, I'll move this to the Stone Wall problem.
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge--Outback Clif...
By: Jay Knower When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only in New Hampshire would you have a whole page worth of directions for a 30 minute approach.
Thanks a lot for the info guys. I'll try my luck again in a few days.
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