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Deciphering the top!


Member Since: Apr 29, 2010
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact Jay Shultis


Point Rank: # 115
Total Points: 3,642
Last Year: 1,313
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Shultis been climbing?










Contributions


All 1239 | Routes 176 | Areas 64 | Photos 143 | Page Improvments | Comments 207 | Posts 9 | Stars 452 | Ratings 188
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : Bozoo : Rigor Wall : Alaskan Vacation (5.10) : Photo
By: Jay Shultis When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Very foreshortened, this is a panoramic standing at the base.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Double-Tier Wall : Love Handle (5.10a)
By: Jay Shultis When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Climbing this route as described is pretty hard, don't ignore the face holds left of the crack if you want a 10a version!


Location: VA : Grayson Highlands State Par... : Picnic Area : Olympus Boulder : Zeus (Stand) (V3-4)
By: Jay Shultis When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: Having done both versions now... the eliminate is minimal and very worthwhile.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Bovine Area : Tiers of Joy (5.12a/b)
By: Jay Shultis When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Sounds good, trad/mixed is the way to go and pure bolted lines will be rare at Bozoo, especially on the low end. That alone should prevent the area from blowing up. Bubba City should be our example of exactly what not to do (bolted cracks and retro-bolted mixed lines, etc). Also, keep in mind that the user area is small and the location is VERY remote. Most people will go to the New no matter what we do at Bozoo. This always has and will help us keep our local crag local. No printed guide ... more >>


Location: WV : Bozoo : Bovine Area : Tiers of Joy (5.12a/b)
By: Jay Shultis When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: I am by no means trying to flame this up, this is a serious discussion that needs to happen. Additional development will happen, as it always has, and we should have a plan. TR or gear only has never been the exclusive ethic. There is a long history of Bolts and top anchors being used as protection at Bozoo. Correct me if I am wrong Paul, there are many routes that you have FA'd as well as others that used bolts when the time is right. Top roping is not the same as leading, ground up is the... more >>


Location: WV : Bozoo : Bozoo Bouldering : Project Area : The Brain Boulder : Lizard King (V3)
By: Jay Shultis When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: Shawn, your sketches show you named this Lizard Ring, lemme know if you disagree.


Location: VA : Grayson Highlands State Par... : Back of Beyond : Calamity Boulder : Calamity (V4 X) : Photo
By: Jay Shultis When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: Bold.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Rigor Wall : Asian School Girls (5.9)
By: Jay Shultis When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Awesome!!! Let's see how long that lasts now that spring is coming! Glad to hear someone is checking this nice little line out.


Location: VA : McAfee's Knob : Arrow Boulder Area : Drop Zone Boulder
By: Jay Shultis When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: Always room for new lines at the Knob! Good work!


Location: WV : Bozoo : White Wall : Embraceable You (5.10)
By: Jay Shultis When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: probably unprotected, hence the R rating.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Savory Area : Shits-N-Giggles (5.9)
By: Jay Shultis When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: Bozoo's mini tower, i have been wondering on the history of this thing! Thx for the beta, Paul!


Location: VA : Cascades Bouldering : Shadow Cast Area : Shrinking Arete (AKA Shadow... : Shrinking ArÍte (AKA Shadow... (V6-7)
By: Jay Shultis When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: Seems like swinging your feet out left makes this really hard, I kept a right heel on the crimps at the arete/lip and it makes the mantle a lot easier. I normally don't propose slash grades, but I want to run another lap on it before I cast my final vote on the grade, I am on the fence right now.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Bozoo Bouldering : Downstream Boulderfield : E: Multi-Dihedral Boulder : Chameleon (V8)
By: Jay Shultis When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: I wanna see your V5 beta Ed! I hit this in crisp temps and low humidity today, it was super grippy. Still seems H A R D.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Bozoo Bouldering : Downstream Boulderfield : C: Talus Area : ... : Heart Attack Jack (V5)
By: Jay Shultis When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: Rad problem!


Location: WV : Bozoo : Bozoo Bouldering : Downstream Boulderfield : C: Talus Area : C2: 211 Spot Boulder
By: Jay Shultis When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: The tree is now 100% removed from this area after 3-4 hours of work by Naidruv and Myself! Many more lumberjack projects left out there!


Location: VA : Cascades Bouldering : Contrast Area : Contrast Boulder : Greasy Grundle Gamble (V6-7)
By: Jay Shultis When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: What happened to "Auld Lang Syne" ?!!! Joe's finish is the direct finish which is the same finish for Lightning McQueen.


Location: VA : Cascades Bouldering : Contrast Area : Contrast Boulder : Lightning Mcqueen (V3)
By: Jay Shultis When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: Aaron, I think you can bump this to V4, looks like pretty good consensus at that grade.


Location: VA : Cascades Bouldering : Cascadia Area : Cascadia : Rapunzel Syndrome (V6-7)
By: Jay Shultis When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: FYI, I did the mid problem mantle yesterday and it seems to be a low end V5, it actually goes easier than pulling the bulge on "Inglorious" IMO. Also, starting this problem without using the neighboring boulder works better for me. Still have not been able to repeat it tho! I get to the Inglorious topout and can't fight the pump.


Location: VA : Cascades Bouldering : Title Fight Area : Title Fight Boulder : Fight Night Low Project (V7)
By: Jay Shultis When: Jan 11, 2014

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Comments: Yeah seems silly, that would be good for the suggestion box.


Location: VA : Cascades Bouldering : Title Fight Area : Title Fight Boulder : Fight Night Low Project (V7)
By: Jay Shultis When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: I worked this and it is definitely rad. Really feels like the "full value" line for fight night. I started on the "good" Left undercling and the horrible right hand sidepull with crystals and obvious feet below. The deadpoint to the L starting hold on Fight Night is getting pretty repeatable for me, almost static sometimes. Cold temps required, for sure. After sussing the moves I am pretty sure this is no more than V8, possibly a hard 7.


Location: VA : Cascades Bouldering : Title Fight Area : Title Fight Boulder : Fight Night (V5-6)
By: Jay Shultis When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: I give it 3 stars due to the "partial line" factor. To me it feels like you start mid problem on this due to the body position. Low start will be $$$. I was repeatedly pulling on and snagging the improbable left pinch from the low holds yesterday. Maybe link it up next session??? I love the movement on title fight, but I love the "directness" of this.

Also, I think it is safe to call this a V6. 4 repeats yesterday, I don't think any of us would call it a 5.


Location: VA : Cascades Bouldering : Pyramid Area : Top Ramen Boulder : Top Ramen (V2)
By: Jay Shultis When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: SDS is highly recommended, start on nice underclings and a perfect foot. Same grade, maybe V2+.


Location: VA : Cascades Bouldering : Pyramid Area : Golightly Boulder : Lights Out (V4)
By: Jay Shultis When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Awesome Kneebar!!!


Location: VA : Cascades Bouldering : Pyramid Area : Golightly Boulder : Don't Smite Me (V5)
By: Jay Shultis When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: 3-4 pads is nice on this one, pretty crappy landing.


Location: VA : Cascades Bouldering : Pyramid Area : Pyramid Boulder : Pyramid Scheme (V6)
By: Jay Shultis When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Crimp nasty, this is a cool but kinda painful problem!


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