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Berlin


Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Jay Eggleston


Point Rank: # 21
Total Points: 11,860
Last Year: 1,864
Last 30 Days: 64
60 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 5241 | Routes 115 | Areas 8 | Photos 1992 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 630 | Posts 208 | Stars 1616 | Ratings 668
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Hamster Huey (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 4 hours ago

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Comments: The holds in the crux area are big but it is steep and you don't have a lot of time to find the best ones. It is a short crux but the route is fun.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Gooey Kablooie (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 4 hours ago

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Comments: You can avoid the heel hook at the beginning if you use some holds to the right on Br'er Rabbit. It may not be how the route was intended to go but, it does work.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Br'er Rabbit (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 2 days ago

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Comments: It felt like the crux was at the bottom in the first few moves .


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Br'er Fox (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 2 days ago

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Comments: This is truly a 5.7 (unlike some if the other 7s at the crag). It looks like the step section will be difficult, but there are big jug holds which makes the passage easier than it first appears.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Calvin (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: This route is more fun than Hobbes to the right that starts out the same.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Hobbes (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: I also placed 2 gold and one blue Camalot, but one gold would be safe. There are better routes to do at this wall.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Yellow Dog Dingo (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: The Horn Pipe variation is certainly better than the other last pitch. Not too hard, but great exposure.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wanna Be Wall : Wannabe Protected (temporar... (5.8 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: While you can go to the anchors of Wanna be a Bolter, you only get a short, easy traverse from the Wannebe Right anchor. I top roped the route, but the protection does not look very good once you commit to the face above the crack.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wanna Be Wall : WanneBe Right or Two (5.10c/d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: I only found 4 bolts on this, maybe I missed the 5th.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Choppo's Chimney (WI4-5) : Photo
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 25, 2014

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Comments: That's not the Skylight.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Labby (5.9-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: Like many of the routes here, this one felt easier than what it is rated. The route is fun, but I thought the crux was a few moves near the "hump". Maybe I did not do the moves like the FA team. I did, however, like the route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Bicolored Python Rock Snake (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: I thought this felt easier than the route, "Labby", to the left, which is given 5.9-. The route is fun though and is worth doing if you are at the wall.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Tortoise Scute (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route and is not difficult for a 5.7. The route gets you high up on the side of the canyon. This would be a good route for new 5.7 leaders. It is safely bolted and not very sustained.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : First Armadillo (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route, but it is just barely 5.8 in difficulty. There may be one 5.8 move, but there are not multiple 5.8 moves.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Yellow Dog Dingo (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 20, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun climb, and it is bolted very well. It seemed more like 5.6 than 5.7 to me. There are great holds in all the steep sections.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Fleas and Ticks (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: The overhang near the bottom is the hardest part. Going directly straight up is the best way to surmount it. Left or right is more difficult. The route is a fun addition to the wall. I only used a 0.3 Camalot, but more gear can be placed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Vanishing Point : Rock Doc (5.10b/c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route! There is a great finger lock and nut placement above the last bolt. There is a great finger pocket in the same area as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Jessica's Block : Jessica's Route (5.9-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route. It is too bad it is so short. The hardest part consists of maybe 1 5.9 move. A good, quick warm-up!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Vanishing Point : Standback (5.10c/d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: The clips are not "tenuous" on this. The holds are small and not obvious at times, but if you find them all, the climb is very doable. It felt about 11a to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Vanishing Point : Alpine-Moe (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: If you don't want to use the bolts with quicklinks to descend, it is an easy downclimb in the gully to the north.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Vanishing Point : Werner's Legacy (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route and is worth doing, but it felt easier than 5.8 to me. I think it is a 5.7, but it is worth doing if you are in the area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Jessica's Block : Sister Sweetly (5.11d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: This is correctly described here as having 3 bolts. The Bob D'Antonio guidebook says it has 4 bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Lower Tier : Like a Wonk (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: We combined the two pitches, and it worked out well. There was not much rope drag. It saves some time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Lower Tier : Canine Corner (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: The top on this is interesting. Going out to the arÍte on the right is the easiest way, but going direct works too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Lower Tier : Beer Dog (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: This is the easiest of the three routes that share the same start. If you do all three you dial in the crux by doing it three times.


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