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Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Jay Eggleston

Point Rank: # 18
Total Points: 13,055
Last Year: 2,095
Last 30 Days: 551
107 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 5627 | Routes 136 | Areas 11 | Photos 2165 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 687 | Posts 221 | Stars 1690 | Ratings 711
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress
By: Jay Eggleston When: 2 days ago

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Comments: The gated road now has a no trespassing sign on the gate.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : A Little Piece of South Dak...
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: I would just go in the late fall or on a warm winter day. I waded the creek right below the crag,


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Angle Iron Slabs : Purgatory (5.10a R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: This climbs to the left of the rods sticking out of the slab at the bottom. It only has two bolts, and they have been replaced, so are good. It is best to top rope this route. It is a variation start to Roadside Attraction which starts a few feet to the right.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Outback
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: I have to agree that the approach is incredibly difficult for a crag where you mainly clip bolts. The main Thunder Ridge is way easier to get to.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: It looks worse in the photo for meandering than it really is.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Healing Center
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: The approach is heinous for Clear Creek but much easier than some other places I have gone to recently.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Angle Iron Slabs : Roadkill (5.9 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: The rock at the bottom to get up to the crack is not too hard, but someone without much experience will consider it real climbing and not just a scramble.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Angle Iron Slabs : Trifle Dicey (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: The "nasty" bolt on this climb has been replaced and is no longer "nasty". The newest guidebook lists two bolts on this climb, but there is only one.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain : 1937 route (5.5)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: This route is ok if you are looking for an easy route. The vegetation is not too bad right now. There are a few bushes in random locations but nothing too much. Every pitch has a small section which makes you think though the route is mostly very easy. I did not place protection on the second pitch, yet you could if you wanted to. I think the route is ok for beginners if you are in the area.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : Short, Sweet Crack (5.5 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: I now know where this is, and I climbed it today. It is longer than 20'. It is about 80' to the top of the rock. The actual crack is only about 20' long. I think it is harder than 5.5. I think it is 5.7. I am glad I did not solo it, but the route is fun.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Back on Track (5.8 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: This route is ok if you want to place gear. I used a 00 C3 as my smallest piece. I did not see a place for a #4 C4. I placed 5 cams on the route with my biggest one being a #1 C4. You can place more if you want. The crux is short, about a body length.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Get a Job (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: This is certainly harder than 11a. I called it 11b, but it may even be harder. It is very sustained above the roof at the 5.10 grade. A 70m rope is just right to get down. The climb is not 135' long. It is almost exactly 115' long Both the newest guide books list this climb wrong as far as length. This site lists it too long, too.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Black Gold (5.7+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: The best way to do this climb is to combine the 1st and 2nd pitches and the 3rd and 4th pitches. This speeds the day up a lot.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Unknown (5.6)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: This is a good, easy route. It now has bolt anchors for descent before the ledge with rubble. It is a little shorter now that it has these anchors, but descent is now easy. Who put the bolts in?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Black Gold (5.7+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: This is my second comment, because I realized that this route is not described correctly in the newest guidebook written by Kevin Capps. In his book, he calls the route "The Waiting Room" and only shows the first pitch. The other 4 pitches are not shown. They may not have existed when he did the book, but he should have researched the name of the first pitch or called it "unknown". It is good that Mountain Project exists.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Black Gold (5.7+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun climb! The last pitch has 12 bolts, so bring enough draws. You would, of course, have enough if combining pitches, but I used all I had. I had extra but was not combining pitches. The last pitch is a little longer than 35m. I would say about 40m. It's nice that Alan installed a new first bolt, but it would be more useful if a little higher. It will keep you out of the water, though.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Kermit's Corners (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: This route is fun if you bring a rack to the crag. I placed 7 pieces and clipped one bolt on Fat Lipped Gofur. You don't have to clip the bolt, but it protects the crux nicely and makes it so a fall would not be as long. The route does take small gear, and I would only rack up to a #2 Camalot.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Minnesota Gopher (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: I think this is slightly easier than "Fat Lipped Gofur" to the right. I think this has better jug holds. Both routes are good, but I don't agree with the given ratings.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Clyde (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: This pitch is fun, but I think it is only a 5.6 in difficulty. I combined the two pitches and did a single rap down. I have a 70m rope, but a 60m one would work to descend in one rap.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : A. First Triangle
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: The one route here is fun. I would say it is about 11a in difficulty. I hope the first ascentionist posts it on here soon.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : The Belay Brothers Bounce B... (5.8+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: I led this recently and only placed cams. I used two #2 Camalots and a #4 as well. I also placed the #0.75 Camalot and a #2 Friend. I did not use any nuts. It is a little tricky getting above the last gear placement to the first bolt.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Old Pirates (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: The crux is around the first bolt. It is not that hard to pull over the overhang. There is a big "jug" hold reachable above the overhang.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Three Little Birds (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: I did this route for the second time, and it is still fun. I did not find the flexing flakes Leo talks about. It is certainly a route you should do if visiting the area.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : C. Third Triangle : The Joy of My World (is in ... (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun route, and I agree that the crux is above the second bolt. When you reach the undercling, the feet have no good holds to move up on. It is just smears. Above, the holds are jugs. If anyone ever has a brush, there is lots of flakey, loose lichen on the climb. This route is worthwhile!


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : B. Second Triangle : Undisclosed Location (5.9-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun line. It is very sustained with few actual rests. It is not very physically sustained, but most of the holds are small, and the key to climbing it is finding the best ones. I used the upper rap anchor as a top rope anchor which worked very well.


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