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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Goldline (M10)
By: Jason Nelson When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most folks will stick clip the second bolt on this one.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : The Point, Powderhorn, Colo...
By: Jason Nelson When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really enjoyed this crag. What a pleasant little surprise of fun. Great camping too! The rock is more of a volcanic conglomerate so it is a little different than El Rito, or Maple Canyon. There's a few wobbly bolts on the main wall, so if you're so inclined, it would be great to have those replaced and a worthy investment. Oh yeah, it's road 58, not 38 that you'll get to the crag on.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Red Bull and Vodka (M8+)
By: Jason Nelson When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For Pitch 2/Extension: Climb through a techy roof above the first anchor to more secure climbing. You can get a "rodeo rest" on the diving board by wrapping your legs around it. Shake out, then prepare for a figure four and figure nine as you climb the roof and your feet loose contact with the diving board. I believe you can either traverse left to the Fang or continue upwards if there's ice in condition. Hopefully you're not too pumped to swing your tools into the ice at this point. There'... more >>
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Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : The Pool Wall : Lunch Bucket A.K.A. Romper ... (5.11b)
By: Jason Nelson When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I bolted Romper Room a couple years back. It goes left to the Chains of "No Se", where your (Luke's 11b) route goes right and has it's own chains. Both are fun routes.
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Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Ouray Rotary Park-Rink Wall
By: Jason Nelson When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The line up and left of Sesame Street is 12a. The extension of Sesame Street up the slab is 10d (maybe sandbag). There's also two new routes on the lower angle side: 5.5 and 5.7 - summer '09. There is also a another route on the right(steep) side (far right) that is longer than the other routes and checks in at about 11d.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Butte : Clearlight (5.11 PG13)
By: Jason Nelson When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few additional comments/corrections: P1 is about 120 ft. Prusiks would be a handy thing if you blow it on the P2 traverse (for leader or follower). Keep a tag line clipped into the P3 anchor so you can return to it on the rappel. Otherwise, you might be stuck swinging around in space. For the chimney, you only need a finger size piece for a pocket midway, and then green or red camalots of you want to back up the anchor. Leave the rest of the gear on the anchor, including your helmet. Don... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : Super Dave (M7+)
By: Jason Nelson When: Feb 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm assuming it was Dave Bangert who did the FA on this, but I'm not 100% on that.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : Dizzy with a Vision (WI5 M7+)
By: Jason Nelson When: Feb 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to legend this was an old Ice Fest comp route, yes put up by Jeff Lowe. It's a little of a spicey lead (2009) without draws hanging on it, as it would be easy to fall onto the slab below while you're heading up the arete.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : Tic Tac (WI4+ M6-7)
By: Jason Nelson When: Feb 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route to the left of Tic Tac was put up by Mark Miller last year (early 2008) and is called Circling Vultures. It's in the same grade range as Tic Tac.
The name is derived from people getting ready to climb the route while Mark was putting the last of the bolts in.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : Chinese Water Torture (M8)
By: Jason Nelson When: Feb 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolted route on this buttress is Chinese Water Torture and was put up by Mark Miller. Consensus is about M8.
The crack to the right of Chinese Water Torture is Hight Tor, and the grade is similar, but it's a trad route. If the crack is chocked up with ice, there might be limited gear possibilities. Both of these are great routes.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Glenwood Falls - Left / Rig... (WI4-5)
By: Jason Nelson When: Dec 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The drainage to the climber's right makes for an easy descent. From the top, got right to the next drainage. Hike down this for a bit, until you need to make a rap from a tree with anchors. A single 60m rope should suffice (we had a 70m, so that might be better, but I think you'd manage with a 60m). There's another rap anchor, but it's just as easy to hike down the rest of the way from here.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Fistful of Steel (M10)
By: Jason Nelson When: Dec 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most of the locals feel that this route is easier than Goldline. There's a cool "seatless chair" rest near the lip of the roof. It might be more like M10+ if you finish it up and right onto Cinamon 'n Cider's headwall.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed
By: Jason Nelson When: Dec 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ICE SCREW SHARPENING
Bill at Ouray Mountain Sports has one of those Grivel Ice Screw sharpening machines. It will sharpen most screws.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : US Highway 550 : Gravity's Rainbow (WI5 M3+)
By: Jason Nelson When: Dec 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb generally only comes in after a couple days of cold cloudy weather. Don't be on this route on a sunny day! If you top out, the entire cliff, you can go left and rappel the Lightline rappels (See rock climbing topo on mtnproj for Lightline, or Darkline in the Ouray Rock section). After the ice, anchors were buried in the snow (?), so I continuted to up to a tree to belay (about 70M pitch). To rappel, we climbed down snow to lower trees where there is a fixed anchor on the lowest tr... more >>
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Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Ouray Rotary Park-Rink Wall
By: Jason Nelson When: Dec 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: About 7 routes have now been developed on the right (steeper) side of the wall. The routes are approximatley 40 ft. tall, 4-5 bolts + anchors, and are in the 5.10 - 5.11 range. Sun hits the wall mid-day, 11-2 in the winter, and longer in the summer (although the leaves on the tress provide for additional shade in the summer). It's a good fun place to do laps, train, and be social.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : South Mineral Creek : Direct North Face (WI4)
By: Jason Nelson When: Oct 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is usually one of the first climbs to form up in the Ouray/Silverton area. It's good to do this early season so that you can drive to the base, and hopefully avoid avy danger too. It's never been that fat (as in the photo) when I've done it, and that snow chocked gully below the ice has a couple hundred feet of fun WI2-3 to get you warmed up with.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Going Retro (M6)
By: Jason Nelson When: Dec 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps I was getting your expectations a little high. The route is well protected, steep, fun, easy, and easy to get to. What else needs to be said, right?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Cinnamon and Cider (M11)
By: Jason Nelson When: Dec 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: When the pillar forms up, which is not very often, you can traverse over to it from the anchors and keep going for more.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mount Sneffels : Southwest Ridge (3rd)
By: Jason Nelson When: Jul 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can also take a snow chute as a direct start to the ridge in the spring for some easy alpine ice or snow slogging if it's too warm. This would be an alternative to hiking up Blue Lakes pass from Yankee Boy Basin. I did this once when I was too lazy to hike around the mountain and do the Snake Couloir.
Round trip car to car for this route is about 4-5 hrs if you park below the lake, above the bathroom. Pretty fast for a 14er! Also plan on about 45mins to drive from Ouray.
I would also n... more >>
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Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Camp Bird Mine Rd/Mountain ...
By: Jason Nelson When: Jun 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is also a wall with some decent bouldering just uphill from this crag. The bouldering wall faces Hwy 550 and can be seen just after you pass the scenic pullout / hairpin.
The limestone wall above the Hwy 550 after the scenic pullout is on private property and is off-limits to climbing.
Here is a link for 1/2 dozen more sport climbs (5.11-5.12) less than a 5 minute walk from this crag. http://www.ourayicepark.com/tour_rockPark.php
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Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Engineer Pass
By: Jason Nelson When: Jun 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be careful climbing in this area. Dislodged rocks could potentially end up in the road or parking area. I haven't heard of any making it yet, but I've heard of ones that have come close.
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Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : The Pool Wall : No Se (5.10b)
By: Jason Nelson When: Jun 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an awkward climb in that the bolts aren't really in line with the climbing. The other (right) side of the little buttress has a route of similar grade (The Romper Room), goes to the same anchors, and is a more fun climb and a more pleasant lead. Lead the Romper Room, lower down and do a quick TR burn on No Se.
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Location: CO : New Route Development in th...
By: Jason Nelson When: Jun 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: That would be Jason Nelson that he came back and red pointed the route with. Did someone make up the name Jared Nelson? Josh got the pitch on his second try, and yes it was very hard.
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Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Camp Bird Mine Rd/Mountain ...
By: Jason Nelson When: May 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The slabby side of this rock has anchors on top and is often used for guiding beginners.
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Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Le Petit Verdon
By: Jason Nelson When: May 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area is called le petit verdon.
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