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Member Since: Oct 18, 2004
Last Visit: Sep 10, 2010
Contact Jason Shatek


Point Rank: # 3,156
Total Points: 148
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jason Shatek been climbing?










Contributions


All 147 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvments | Comments 78 | Posts 1 | Stars 35 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Shatek's Ramp-age

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (3)

Trad, 1 pitch, 70'

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - N Face

Jan 21, 2005

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Larry Pedigo performs self rescue by prussik'ing up the 1st rap in order to free our stuck rope, all under ominous skies and pounding rain!

Larry Pedigo performs self rescue by prussik'ing up the 1st rap in order to free our stuck rope, all under ominous skies and pounding rain!

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : South Face (5.8)

Aug 9, 2007

Larry leading up the second pitch

Larry leading up the second pitch

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Future Primitive (5.6)

Jan 26, 2006

Mollie having fun at the end of the second pitch

Mollie having fun at the end of the second pitch

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Future Primitive (5.6)

Jan 26, 2006

Jason Shatek moving up the arete on the third pitch

Jason Shatek moving up the arete on the third pitch

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Future Primitive (5.6)

Jan 26, 2006

Jason Shatek moving up the very airy arete on the third pitch

Jason Shatek moving up the very airy arete on the third pitch

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Future Primitive (5.6)

Jan 26, 2006

Larry Pedigo happy to be on the summit of ShirtTail

Larry Pedigo happy to be on the summit of ShirtTail

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Future Primitive (5.6)

Jan 26, 2006

Larry makes way over to start the stellar Ruper Crack.

Larry makes way over to start the stellar Ruper Crack.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Ruper (5.8+)

Dec 25, 2005

Larry climbs the last and best pitch.  The rock looks black and sinister, just the way I like it.

Larry climbs the last and best pitch. The rock looks black and sinister, just the way I like it.

NV : Red Rock : ... : Cat in the Hat (5.6)

Jun 6, 2005

This crack is oh so fine.

This crack is oh so fine.

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Double Cross (5.7+)

Jun 6, 2005

This climb is a hoot and a hollar.  Larry negotiates the small traverse to move around the roof.

This climb is a hoot and a hollar. Larry negotiates the small traverse to move around the roof.

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Overhang Bypass (5.7)

Jun 6, 2005

Being south-facing, Happy Hour is a great winter-time destination.

Being south-facing, Happy Hour is a great winter-time destination.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Nightcap (5.9)

Feb 7, 2005

V3 offers a lot for only one pitch.

V3 offers a lot for only one pitch.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : V3 (5.8)

Feb 7, 2005

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Village Idiot (5.9)
By: Jason Shatek When: Jun 21, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Casey, I believe that's Staircase Direct, it's in the Falcon guidebook, it's an 8.

Also, thought this climb was much easier than 5.9, more like 5.8.

I think this climb could be done on natural pro. The bolt placements are all next to cracks? If I do the climb on natural pro, will the FA let me chop the bolts?


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Zendance (5.7 PG13)
By: Jason Shatek When: Jun 21, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Cool route, 4 pieces in 100 ft was a bit light. Nothing like taking a 50 ft'er if you blow the clip. Used a green Alien in the seam, technical crux was right off the ground, mental crux right before the second bolt, cuz you're gonna deck, no question, if you miss that clip.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Antagonism (5.12a/b)
By: Jason Shatek When: May 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Tried this one on top rope. At the bottom you're like wow I'm climbing a 12, then reality sets in at the roof and its welcome to I-still-suck-ville.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Jason Shatek When: Apr 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: 4 star route. The bulge is certainly memorable, as is the Robbins' traverse. Each pitch has something that will get your attention. All in all a great route and certainly a classic. A lot of the pitches have awesome exposure. Before I did this route, I was looking for beta on the piton ladder pitch. Think thin, airy moves, but it's all there and the protection is good until you get to the Robbins' traverse. Next time I think we'll do the 5.10 bolts. The traverse is runout and probably mor... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Rochambeau (5.9)
By: Jason Shatek When: Dec 3, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Its not a gimme climb, you still have to motor in some spots. The climb is pretty good but it's not a very asthetic line and it was kinda sandy in there. Most of the rests are pretty good.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Blue Sun (5.10-)
By: Jason Shatek When: Dec 3, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: sweet route! I don't have large hands and I thought the jams were perfect. The last 10-15 feet after the rest I thought the hands would be difficult because the hands would be big, but I didn't have any problems. All the jams felt great. On supercrack the hands definately get a little rattely.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Bunny Slope (5.9)
By: Jason Shatek When: Dec 3, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: take a lot of #2 camalots and a few 3s. A couple small cams works for the lower portion,


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: Jason Shatek When: Dec 3, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: "Well, if perfect hands is your thing" uttered to us by another climber while we were waiting for the climb. The hands really are perfect and the crack is a bit tapered so it fits a lot of hand sizes.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10)
By: Jason Shatek When: Dec 3, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: A #2 camalot and a yellow mastercam protect the technical crux at the bottom. Once in the crack, a #2 will work for about 10 feet after the roof. Also, crowds weren't a problem, I didn't see many people near supercrack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Cannabis Sportiva (5.11a)
By: Jason Shatek When: Aug 18, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this was a 10ish route. Probably 10c or d even with the left crack. A few balancy moves followed by some beat your chest ape moves. The horn makes it just plain fun and the bolts are very well placed. Kudos to the bolter.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Lemmings (5.8)
By: Jason Shatek When: Aug 18, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this variation was great! It adds another few fun moves to west overhang. I thought it was more like a 5.7 roof though, It was pretty easy. Also, I used a nut and an orange Alien for pro through the crux. Don't take a #4, it's not necessary. Fun variation but only an extra move or two,


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: Jason Shatek When: Aug 9, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Paul, it almost sounds like it was me you saw climbing only this was about two weeks ago. For us the storm came from the north cuz we definately didn't see the it coming. The first pitch was awesome! It didn't start raining till I was about 1/2 way up the second pitch. While climbing the second pitch it must have rained an inch in a 1/2 hour (all while drowning my partner Mollie). It made the crux and raps very memorable! After we got down we watched another guy in jeans and smoking do the ... more >>


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