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Ariana on the Diamond


Member Since: Sep 3, 2001
Last Visit: Jul 29, 2014
Contact Jason Nelson


Point Rank: # 922
Total Points: 690
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
81 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jason Nelson been climbing?










Contributions


All 200 | Routes 20 | Areas 6 | Photos 68 | Page Improvements | Comments 60 | Posts 4 | Stars 36 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Spearhead : Iron Messiah (5.10)
By: Jason Nelson When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: I did option #2 finish as described in the description. From the tree continue up the corner until is is possible to step left around the arete (medium size stopper protects this move) and scramble to the summit. I guess 5.8R describes it more or less.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Spaceshot (5.7 C2)
By: Jason Nelson When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: Climbed this route over spring break. I thought it was a prettier line to look at than to climb, but none the less a good time overall. There's no need to simu-climb any of it since we were back to the car by 5 and started just after first light. Short fixing would be a good way to make the aid pitches go quicker. Comments on the free climbing: the upper pitches in guidebook listed as 5.10 seemed a bit on the sandbag side. The first one is .5 and .75 camalot size, usually not a desert 5.10 ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Jason Nelson When: Jan 6, 2003

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Comments: Instead of going right after the crux on Pitch 1, a nice alternative is to go slightly left, clip a bolt above the roof, pull the roof (maybe 11a) and belay on the small ledge just above. You also don't have to worry so much about the rope cutting over the arete on the next pitch if you go this way. It also makes for a more independant line.Great Route!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: Jason Nelson When: Jan 6, 2003

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Comments: I had been scared of this route for a long time, and finally tried it. It wasn't as bad as I expected, but most of what is said about the route is true. Here is some gear beta. You might use different gear, but this will give you an idea of what to bring.

P1 - blue Alien (or #0 Metolius), #1 Metolius, small stoppers, and quickdraws. P2 (roof) - 2 quick draws is all you need. P3 (crux) - #00 Metolius, 2 #2 Camalots for falling off the crux, #1 Camalot, #3 ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Darkness 'til Dawn (5.10-)
By: Jason Nelson When: Jan 3, 2003

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Comments: Keep in mind that you need two ropes to get down (unless you have a 70m rope). Summer '02 there was an accident here and I know someone that also let the end of the rope slip through the belay device and caught it with one had. Yikes!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Contest (5.11d)
By: Jason Nelson When: Jan 3, 2003

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Comments: Shorter climbers may want to stick clipt he first bolt, but taller ones can clip it while still standing on the ramp. Climbing through the crux is thrilling as you're leaving the bolt behind you with a bit of a pump and a fall would result in a good swinger if you've passed the crux. Good sports action for the spectators.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: Jason Nelson When: Sep 5, 2002

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Comments: Well, looks like I stirred up quite the controversy! I think some of you guys might monitor this site a little closely. As to the 5.11- pitch. There is a fixed head and an old bolt protecting the crux. The head looks OK, and the bolt belongs in a museum. It's a rusted out leeper hanger (remember those got recalled), with what looks like a nail holding it in. My partner led the pitch a totally sowed it up. Following the pitch, I wasn't sure what kind of weight the gear would hold, but I do... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Genius Loci (5.11d)
By: Jason Nelson When: Nov 18, 2001

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Comments: I've done the edge a number of times, and enjoyed the route (genius loci) as something different from the original edge start. I thought it was fun arete and face climbing in a spectacular postion. As to the controversy, I probably wasn't even rock climbing yet when it occured.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Roving for Love (5.11c R)
By: Jason Nelson When: Nov 18, 2001

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Comments: Hang a long runner on the bolt on the roof of Rover so that your second can do the moves. Otherwise the bolts at their feet once they pull the moves and the rope is pulling them back off the roof. Also, long arms are useful to clip this bolt for the leader. I think the bolt is in a bad place (better than no bolt however).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.10d R)
By: Jason Nelson When: Nov 18, 2001

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Comments: Keep in mind the "scramble" to get to Ruper is about 2 pitches (300 ft.)


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