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Ariana on the Diamond


Member Since: Sep 3, 2001
Last Visit: Jul 29, 2014
Contact Jason Nelson


Point Rank: # 931
Total Points: 690
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
81 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jason Nelson been climbing?










Contributions


All 200 | Routes 20 | Areas 6 | Photos 68 | Page Improvements | Comments 60 | Posts 4 | Stars 36 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Juneau : Mendenhall Towers : Iron Curtian (5.12a)
By: Jason Nelson When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, pitch 7 was the crux. Grade might be soft as I have big mitts. Likely 12a at most. Who knows, it was years ago and I never spent much time thinking about it (or caring for that matter). Blake found a different way to go, and maybe you will too. Go have some fun. It's a great route regardless of what number you paste onto it.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : The Golden Spike (5.11+)
By: Jason Nelson When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: There is only 1 bolt with a hanger on top of P4. There is a stud next to it (maybe 3/8" wedge bolt?), but no nut or hanger next to it. Me, I'm not much a fan of single bolt raps. In general the raps/anchors could all use to be improved. Most just have two bolts with 1 biner each and are located just off the belay ledges which make for unnecessary hanging belays and very twisted ropes. It would be a good service for a future ascent to improve on this as the route is a worthy adventure.
I a... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Trundlers Club (5.11-)
By: Jason Nelson When: Feb 12, 2012

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Comments: A simple approach is go to Chicken Point and then head up a gully toward the route. Here are GPS directions. bp2.trimbleoutdoors.com/ViewTr... (note: we had some backtracking due to getting cliffed out)
Rap Beta: use a 70M rope and rap from the higher anchor on the second rappel. 1st person raps down the corner to easily reach the anchors and ties the rope ends into the anchor. 2nd person raps straight down the steeper face and can be pulled into the anchors. The rope won't go anyw... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Pussy Mind Trick (PMT) (5.12-)
By: Jason Nelson When: Feb 12, 2012

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Comments: A simple approach is go to Chicken Point and then head up a gully toward the route. Here are GPS directions. bp2.trimbleoutdoors.com/Maps/E... (note: we had some backtracking due to getting cliffed out)
Rap Beta: use a 70M rope and rap from the higher anchor on the second rappel. 1st person raps down the corner to easily reach the anchors and ties the rope ends into the anchor. 2nd person raps straight down the steepe... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: Jason Nelson When: Feb 12, 2012

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Comments: A simple approach is go to Chicken Point and then head up a gully toward the route. Here are GPS directions. bp2.trimbleoutdoors.com/Maps/E... (note: we had some backtracking due to getting cliffed out)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Vortex in a Can (5.10+)
By: Jason Nelson When: Feb 12, 2012

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Comments: Full Directions: From Sedona, head South on 89A, take a left onto 179 at the first roundabout. Take a right at Back O' Beyond rd (signed) after a couple of roundabouts. Go about a mile and park at the trail-head (you can't miss it). Pay the iron ranger for parking.
Hike up the Cathedral Spires Trail. You'll be following a line of tourists at most times. Make sure you head uphill toward the spires and don't get confused by the trails bisecting the route. Once at the Notch go left about 200'... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+) : Photo
By: Jason Nelson When: May 25, 2011

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Comments: I've uploaded a updated printable PDF version here: visualadventures.com/climbing/....


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : The Local Scoop (M7)
By: Jason Nelson When: Apr 24, 2011

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Comments: I called this one Local Scoop, because I bolted it one evening and when I arrived in the morning to climb it, Mark Miller was already halfway up it.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Shattered Dreams (WI5+ M8)
By: Jason Nelson When: Apr 24, 2011

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Comments: Hey Buster. I put this one up. I recall the gear beta being a red and blue Camalot, and if the ice is thin before the anchor, a purple Camalot can go in there.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Moon Also Rises (5.11-)
By: Jason Nelson When: Apr 3, 2011

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Comments: There's a variation Lisa and I added that goes right into thin, then splitter hands and the other side of the broken pillar forming Sweedin' Ringle.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Arch Enemy (5.11+)
By: Jason Nelson When: Feb 5, 2011

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Comments: Additional Beta for finding the trailhead as this description leaves some to be desired.
Trailhead Directions: From the "Y" (the intersection of Highway 179 and Highway 89A) go south on Highway 179 about 0.3 mile to Schnebly Hill Road. Turn left on Schnebly Hill and proceed 3.5 miles. The trailhead parking is on your right. Use the far entrance to the parking area as the near entrance is very steep and you have a good chance of hitting the bottom of your vehicle. Schnebly Hill is paved for t... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall
By: Jason Nelson When: Nov 21, 2010

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Comments: Unless you have high clearance 4wd, you'll want to park up higher in the canyon where people camp and then hike to the climbs.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : ... : Culo De Negra (5.12a)
By: Jason Nelson When: Nov 21, 2010

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Comments: The crux is a little rifle-esque, and I remember the bolting being a little sporty if you don't know the route and you're hanging the draws.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : ... : Coyote Tower (5.10c)
By: Jason Nelson When: Nov 14, 2010

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Comments: There's no good approach beta listed, so here it goes. Take the trail below and past the tower until there is a gully that comes into view to the right of the tower. Head up towards the gully, but go left below the steep slabs guarding the tower. Don't go right up the gully as this will leave you dead ended. Contour the steep slabs left until you are dead ended below the tower on a pedestal of sorts. Look up the slabs above you about 50 ft. and you should see the bolts for the first pitch. ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Lunar Lander (5.12a/b)
By: Jason Nelson When: Nov 7, 2010

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Comments: Fixed line is gone and not needed. Would be nice to have that fourth bolt replaced, even though it's not real hard there. Would love to see the crux bolts moved to the left for both a cleaner fall and that's where the climbing goes anyway. Not sure how you would do this route if you were short.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Ouray Rotary Park-Rink Wall
By: Jason Nelson When: May 7, 2010

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Comments: Roy, I was later informed that the 12a grade might be a little sandbag. Routes on the right side currently go something like (L to R): 11, 10b, 10d, 11a (shares anchors with previous), 10c, 11a (shares anchors with previous), 10c (begins above a spring), 11d (leans right), 12a (shares anchors with previous, upper portion is in the 12 range, goes for about 70m, and hasn't been 100% cleaned as of 5/10). Take the grades with a grain of salt or sand :).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Ministry (5.11a)
By: Jason Nelson When: May 3, 2010

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Comments: This route is steep, strenuous, exposed, and with mostly good rock. A great tower adventure. The left start is much more aesthetic, but maybe be prepared for something that feels harder than 11a. Also, my #4 C4 Camalot was too small to protect the intimidating, but short lived P5 crux. A #5 C4 would likely do the trick.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Goldline (M10)
By: Jason Nelson When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: Most folks will stick clip the second bolt on this one.


Location: CO : Gunnison : The Point, Powderhorn, Colo...
By: Jason Nelson When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: I really enjoyed this crag. What a pleasant little surprise of fun. Great camping too! The rock is more of a volcanic conglomerate so it is a little different than El Rito, or Maple Canyon. There's a few wobbly bolts on the main wall, so if you're so inclined, it would be great to have those replaced and a worthy investment. Oh yeah, it's road 58, not 38 that you'll get to the crag on.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Red Bull and Vodka (M11)
By: Jason Nelson When: Sep 4, 2009

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Comments: For Pitch 2/Extension: Climb through a techy roof above the first anchor to more secure climbing. You can get a "rodeo rest" on the diving board by wrapping your legs around it. Shake out, then prepare for a figure four and figure nine as you climb the roof and your feet loose contact with the diving board. I believe you can either traverse left to the Fang or continue upwards if there's ice in condition. Hopefully you're not too pumped to swing your tools into the ice at this point. There'... more >>


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : The Pool Wall : Lunch Bucket A.K.A. Romper ... (5.11b)
By: Jason Nelson When: Aug 28, 2009

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Comments: I bolted Romper Room a couple years back. It goes left to the Chains of "No Se", where your (Luke's 11b) route goes right and has it's own chains. Both are fun routes.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Ouray Rotary Park-Rink Wall
By: Jason Nelson When: Aug 27, 2009

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Comments: The line up and left of Sesame Street is 12a. The extension of Sesame Street up the slab is 10d (maybe sandbag). There's also two new routes on the lower angle side: 5.5 and 5.7 - summer '09. There is also a another route on the right(steep) side (far right) that is longer than the other routes and checks in at about 11d.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Butte : Clearlight (5.11 PG13)
By: Jason Nelson When: Apr 20, 2009

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Comments: A few additional comments/corrections: P1 is about 120 ft. Prusiks would be a handy thing if you blow it on the P2 traverse (for leader or follower). Keep a tag line clipped into the P3 anchor so you can return to it on the rappel. Otherwise, you might be stuck swinging around in space. For the chimney, you only need a finger size piece for a pocket midway, and then green or red camalots of you want to back up the anchor. Leave the rest of the gear on the anchor, including your helmet. Don... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : Super Dave (M7+)
By: Jason Nelson When: Feb 12, 2009

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Comments: I'm assuming it was Dave Bangert who did the FA on this, but I'm not 100% on that.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : Dizzy with a Vision (WI5 M7+)
By: Jason Nelson When: Feb 12, 2009

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Comments: According to legend this was an old Ice Fest comp route, yes put up by Jeff Lowe. It's a little of a spicey lead (2009) without draws hanging on it, as it would be easy to fall onto the slab below while you're heading up the arete.


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