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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Low Cholesterol (5.10) : Photo
By: Jason Kaplan When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn, I would not want to solo that. Burly.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Anasazi Buttress : Artist Tears (5.8 A4) : Photo
By: Jason Kaplan When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't view posting these pictures as putting myself on display, I more thought that perhaps the contribution would be appreciated for offering a different perspective. Sure I also thought holy shit this held? Perhaps I was impressed at what it took FOR ME to get up this thing. Perhaps you view that as putting myself on display even though I'm not even in most of the pictures.
FWIW I did the best I could on this route, I didn't nail, and it was my second route in the desert. I had been ai... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Anasazi Buttress : Artist Tears (5.8 A4) : Photo
By: Jason Kaplan When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had an adjustable with a screamer I was trying to keep on the lower piece and I got caught up in swapping daisies when the piece ripped.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : The Bad Finger Couloir (Steep Snow) : Photo
By: Jason Kaplan When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps you're right; however, holding the axe in the manner you suggest did nothing for him, since he was trapped in the runnel on his back. He ended up using the bottom of the axe to stop himself in the end. Honestly he was caught off guard, and this shot is probably the result of him trying to react during a highly stressful problem.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : Phantom Sprint (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: Jason Kaplan When: Mar 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: BTW I notice in some of your fisher tower climbing pics that you have a yellow (presumably) adjustable daisy... Well we happened to find one that looks very similar, could it be yours?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : Phantom Sprint (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: Jason Kaplan When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Jason Kaplan When: Mar 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: We brought some sawed off's for hand placements and they never got used. Totem cams, link cams and hybrid aliens were game changers. Man oh man, what a trip the three of us had. 3 days on the route after a day and a good chunk of a night to get everything to the base. Slept 2 nights on the wall, first at the top of P3 then after the traverse of the duck. Yes, hauling sucked balls. Managed to pitch the ledge despite bad locations. Brought way to much food and not enough water. Basically ran o... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Petered Out (5.9)
By: Jason Kaplan When: Feb 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: How solid were those button heads when you pulled them out? Any chance I could get one of them as a memento?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : Photo
By: Jason Kaplan When: Jan 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: clipped it around thanksgiving, looks like a hex that was slotted from behind then pulled through the mud. bomber.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : 3AM Crack (5.10)
By: Jason Kaplan When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is classic, climbed it at the end of an adopt a crag day, as the sun was departing. being relatively new to the creek I misinterpreted the rack beta in the book and brought nothing smaller then a #2. I soloed up the pillar and realized my mistake, it's #1's all the way to the roof... luckily I soloed to the top of the pillar so I had my belayer take me off belay and tag 3 #1's up to me. I raced for the lip with thin hands, rested at the lip, cruised the hands, slow... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Photo
By: Jason Kaplan When: Dec 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice, I recently got a cool one of echo at night that I need to post up.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Low Cholesterol (5.10)
By: Jason Kaplan When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Heel toe cams for days. Some stacks, lots of arm bars, some wings. So good, used a sling to switch sides as I burnt out. Old 5 , 2 new 5's and a 6.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Humphrey's Dome : Sugar Magnolia (5.9+)
By: Jason Kaplan When: Sep 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, seems sharper that a lot of the stuff I've climbed in the Platte. We took singles to 0.5 then doubles through #6 and singles of the 2 biggest Bigbros. Done in two pitches, the first ending beyond the slung, cemented kitty litter in the nice nook atop the last chockstone with a #5 deep back in the chimney and the 2 Big bros. For the second pitch, we took the Bros out of the anchor, and I wedged myself in a sitting in an outward position in a taper on the floor. Pitch 2 wa... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Eastern Heart (5.12a)
By: Jason Kaplan When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A friend of mine tried to put up the chimney to the right of this route maybe a year or two ago, he went back last weekend and was thinking about finishing it up but could no longer find it.... He's proposed that the pillar is no longer there. Thought I would put it out there for verification.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Jumbled Buttress : Unnamed 5.9 (5.9)
By: Jason Kaplan When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha, you call sloper liebacking stylish.... Onsighted this today and no sloper liebacking. Good gear, great jams, would probly be my favorite route at No Name with some broom action and topping it out. So good, compared to my onsight attempt on Lone Pine yesterday, this was a cruise.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : East Side : Lone Pine Tree Direct (5.10)
By: Jason Kaplan When: May 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried to onsight this today and had my ass handed to me. Fell on a small RP, hang dogged, ran it out, and thought I was gonna take the biggest whip of my life. Hard to place the gear on this one, humbled.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Traditional Values (5.6)
By: Jason Kaplan When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, I was out soloing yesterday and noticed a bunch of powder on the rock as I was soloing up to the right of Traditional Values. Thought it was strange as I never see anyone climb it, so a pile of chalk was unlikely (I don't use it till about 5.10). It wasn't chalk I realized as I looked up at 2 new glue-ins beside the tree with the webbing. The glue was still drying.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Traditional Values (5.6)
By: Jason Kaplan When: Apr 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It goes all trad for sure, you probably ought to pretend you're soloing once the crack ends. There's even another easy route to the right of this that could go on gear too with a fixed pin up below the tree, maybe 5.5 tops.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Timeline (V0+ R)
By: Jason Kaplan When: Jan 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I started climbing here this thing was V3, and I remember watching a video of D. Woods back off instead of topping it out. Kinda funny that it's now V0.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : The Neighborhood : Zipper Buttress : California Dreamin' (5.9+)
By: Jason Kaplan When: Nov 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad I wasn't the only one that thought that ^.... My friend tried to lead it and backed down before the pin, I went up with a set of hybrid Aliens and wished I had my RPs and sliding nuts. Managed to sneak in a hybrid about 3 feet below the bolt which helped a little, but it sure was a spicy lead either way! Surely an onsight that actually mattered. Thanks for the upgrade, Mike and the ASCA.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: Jason Kaplan When: Sep 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks about how I have done it countless times, path of least resistance/ coolest position.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : Coal Creek Boulders : Spider Wall : The Chossy Traverse "Short"... (V1) : Photo
By: Jason Kaplan When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My "great" vote on this pic is semi-biased since I shot it... I still really like it, but it could be better.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks : Classic Arete (V3-4)
By: Jason Kaplan When: Sep 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sure this thing still awaits a FA!!!
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : The Neighborhood
By: Jason Kaplan When: Jul 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alright.... Well, I went and took a look at this thing finally. I rigged an anchor up top and rapped a single line with the hopes of roped soloing it. On the way up, I was hoping that there was a way to traverse around the mouth of the cave and into the crack above the cave. Unfortunately, there are absolutely NO holds to make that a possibility. Seems you would have to chimney up in the cave and go out the roof crack horizontally. This would be really tough as it's real wide (think arm bar... more >>
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Dead Horse Crag
By: Jason Kaplan When: Jul 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Mike, I figured you knew something about it. Any idea what F8 and F10 equate to in the YDS?
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