Comments: Indeed, thanks for putting up these routes, William. Daniel and I had a great time climbing a few of them and look forward to going back. The rock is really good and the routes are varied and challenging. My crack climbing skills are sub-par so I found Gnosis more difficult than Cryptonomicon. It'll be fun to work on Gnosis.
Comments: I'm a big fan of arętes, and this one was full value aręte climbing. I loved this route. And it's shady all day. Adding to the overall satisfaction, the bolt spacing is a bit airy by today's standards but very safe.
Comments: Unfortunately, as of 9/7/2011 the USFS has closed the trailhead that had served as the access to UEF since the Las Conchas Fire. Signs and red ribbon are now posted at the trailhead/parking area.
Comments: The big plank you traverse left across at the top to reach the anchors sketched me out a bit. I'd hate to send that straight down on the belayer. It's probably fine but sure looks precarious.
Comments: You're welcome J. I went up the rest of the canyon beyond the climbing area yesterday and it's pretty bad up there. Most of the way up, both sides of the canyon are burned with very little ground vegetation remaining. I'm guessing that even if Santa Fe NF lifts the stage III restrictions, Pajarito Canyon will remain closed for quite some time due to flood potential.
Comments: I got my first look at the Dungeon post Las Conchas Fire and was pleased to see the actual climbing area was mostly spared from the fire. The area the approach trail passes through was scorched heavily and little to no ground vegetation exists there now. This would be a bad place to be during a heavy rainfall due to the flooding potential. The area still remains closed as part of the Santa Fe National Forest closure and will likely be closed for a... more >>
Comments: Thankfully Las Conchas and nearby areas Area 37 and Upper East Fork appear to have avoided major fire damage, surprisingly. I saw a photo of Area 37 today and was very surprised it didn't look worse. It appears the approach trail to Upper East Fork is burned pretty severely but reports are the climbing area itself and trees above the walls were spared.
Now to hope for some rain so the Santa Fe National Forest can re-open...
Comments: Thanks guys. The light was quite dramatic that evening. Snow squalls had been passing through all day and then the sun peeked through the clouds right before setting and illuminated the Sisters for a short bit. Very dramatic.
Comments: On 6/3/11, I sure didn't like the looks of the block all the anchor slings were slung around (the block wiggled a bit) so we slung a *much* larger block off to the left and used the biner from the "fixed" nut at the crux and an old locker of mine on the new anchor sling. Booty it if you want but definitely check out the old anchor block first--it's sketchy.
Comments: As of two weekends ago the road was in very good shape and passable with a standard passenger vehicle. It did snow here in northern NM last night and today so it might be a little sloppy tomorrow but should dry up well by Saturday morning.
No offense but, why not bolt the route smack in the middle of sport climbing area? It adds some variety, helps distribute crowds and offers another warm-up. One star is defined as "OK" and I've climbed many enjoyable one-star routes. If the FA folks have the time, energy and hardware, I believe it's a fine idea.
Comments: The sling on the bolts has been replaced with new sling. The hangers are homemade and a bit sharp on the inside of the bolt hole so the new sling is padded by chunks of the old sling. It would be best to replace the hangers with new hangers should anyone feel inclined. This anchor also serves Ninja Turtle Crack (if we climbed the "correct" line).
Comments: This route has a two-bolt anchor with chain, not visible from ground. It's on a nice comfy ledge and makes for a good way to get down from other neighboring routes. Take a wrench to tighten the left anchor bolt.
Comments: Ouch, Levi. Glad you're OK. While I've heard from many concerned people about the boulder behind the climber I've never actually heard of anyone hitting it in a clean fall. The rope behind the leg while leading will most likely be bad no matter what--if the leader's head doesn't hit the boulder first, it'll hit the wall instead.
Mind the rope, then the boulder, then the ground. :-)
Comments: Matt, I talked with another local climber recently and he'd never seen nor heard of anyone climbing this line. I hadn't either. I'd looked at this crack before but figured it too small to protect well. Thanks for inspiration to climb it. I'd say you have the FA of the line and should give it a name. I found the line entertaining with a fun sequence of moves through the crux. It's inconsistent in difficulty with the short crux section and easier climbing below and above that. It protects adequat... more >>
Comments: Daniel, the new anchor setup is really nice. Thanks to you and James for making that upgrade.
The old anchor placement was on a horizontal plane which allows moisture to seep into the holes more easily. It was also in an awkward spot for both routes. Making the extra mantle moves up on to the platform adds some more fun and interesting moves after the crux. The new location also allows for better position through the crux for those TRing the route.