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Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a gr...


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 33
Total Points: 9,127
Last Year: 1,559
Last 30 Days: 101
709 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jason Halladay been climbing?










Contributions


All 5070 | Routes 337 | Areas 56 | Photos 869 | Page Improvements | Comments 572 | Posts 396 | Stars 1653 | Ratings 1187
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Alice in Banana Land (5.10-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: The bolt anchor at the top of this route really needs another set of screw links or rap rings on the existing screw links. Currently they lay flat (parallel) to the rock so pulling your rope through them results in nasty coiling of the rope.


Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Psycho-Path (5.9+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: This route on Psycho Tower is super fun. Never scary nor difficult but with some wild exposure and great summit. Extremely well-protected too. One doesn't need much of a rack other than ~10 slings/draws. We only used two pieces of gear on the entire route (on pitch 2); a red C3 and a #2 Camalot.

Psycho Tower makes for a great introduction to desert tower climbing.




Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Psycho-Path (5.9+) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 16, 2012

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Comments: I presume this is Nameless Face that is commonly known as a separate route or alternate start to Psycho-Path?


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall : TR, Project (5.12)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this yesterday (with one fall getting into the slot) not realizing, A.) It was a project and B.) Some gear above the roof was necessary. (I was able to step over on a ledge after the roof and haul up some gear, though, so it was fine.)
Despite some punky rock, I enjoyed it. Lots of awkward holds, body tension, funky movements and even some chimneying-type stuff. As testament to the funky moves, I'm quite sore now; 24+ hours later.

If it's not an open project, I'll stay off... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Sewer Crag
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: Better parking beta for the Sewer Crag is to park at the RC car track on the right side (south side) of the Overlook road just before the main Overlook parking area. Do not park at the county sewage facility parking area, please.

This is a fun little area that deserves a visit from the 11+/12- climbers. I lump it in the same gray area of access as The Y and Potrillo Cliffs in that I really don't think it's a problem to be climbing there despit... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Breakaway (5.10c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 1, 2012

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Comments: The second pitch looks improbably steep and intimidating for 5.10+ but the holds are positive. Dubious but positive. The position and sustained climbing on P2 is fantastic. If the rock quality was better this would easily be four stars. As it is, definitely pull down, not out, on the holds and go easy on the pulls.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 13, 2011

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Comments: Thanks Craig. Great pitch and route certainly. We really enjoyed it.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Paul's Boutique (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: The first four hangers have been upgraded to Petzl steel hangers (no spinners anymore!) I'm no metallurgist, but the bolts appeared to be in good shape with little to no signs of rust. Most were sleeve bolts so I could pull out and inspect the bolts themselves but not the sleeves and cones, of course.

The fifth bolt, with the worst-looking SMC hanger, is also a sleeve bolt but the sleeve and cone are spinning in the hole so I couldn't remove the bolt/hanger. Thus, it hasn't been upgraded yet. ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments:
JeremyA wrote:
You should've chopped the bolts as well.


I really hate to see bolting and then chopping "wars" nearly as much as I don't appreciate someone adding bolts to an existing line so I didn't take it upon myself to chop the bolts. I hope if someone decides to chop the new bolts, they'll first contact the the FA party to get their opinion. I know Cam Burns, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) , frequents MP so contacting him would be easy. And for all we know, the person that added the bolts may have ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 26, 2011

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Comments: I swapped out the first five hangers on this route with colored/painted hangers today since the route is in a high non-climber-traffic area.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Unknown (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 26, 2011

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Comments: I swapped out all the hangers and the anchor on this route today with painted/colored hardware since this route is in such a high, non-climber-traffic area and the shiny anchors were easily visible from the highway.
When I tried to remove the hanger on the first bolt, the bolt spun in the hole and had a lot of play in the hole. Since it was in a non-optimal spot anyway (a dished area that made it difficult to clip), I placed a new bolt/hanger to the right. I was able to pry the original wedge b... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Full Retard (5.13b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: I'm not offended in the least. "You don't buy that? Ask Sean Penn, 2001."


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Needle and Squaretops : The Retaining Wall : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Wow, that is awesome (both the register find and communication with Dave Hahn about it.) And the note mentioning a glacier in a gully in the Organs? I wouldn't have expected that.


Location: NM : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: Looking forward to more info on this route. Looks like great position for sure.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Dead Cholla Wall : Esmerelda (5.11)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: Star ratings on MP are subjective and everyone gets their own vote which leads to a nice consensus grade. Also, I believe most people consider the star ratings "local to the area". That is, Esmerelda gets four stars from me because I believe it's very much worth doing at Dead Cholla compared to the other routes I've climbed there.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Xibalba (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: I'm stoked you enjoyed the route, Rich, and thanks for the kind words. After the investment in time to clean the line, I'm happy to hear it's seeing some traffic. We're heading into Diablo season now and I'm looking forward to getting back on this line and the other new additions to the area this year.

I climbed it again today and, like others that have opined about it, I feel it's 10+. I changed the rating here on MP.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments:
Bill Matlin wrote:
Noticed two new routes today on Gateway Rock, the one on the far right was excellent, what's the grade on these?

The far right route is Forest, a former gear route that was recently retro-bolted. The other newer, short route is Unknown 5.7. I don't know who put up the routes but I think it was the same persons based on the identical hardware.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : I & Eye (5.11+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: I'm always amazed at natural, cool, unique features on routes such as the "eye" hole on this route. Tricky, fun and sustained arÍte climbing make for a great line.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: 9/24/2011 - Some friends were given a formal warning ticket from the USFS at the A37 parking area for being in "a burned area". Expect formal closure signs at A37 this week.
Consider calling or writing to the Jemez ranger district of the Santa Fe National Forest to ask that areas that aren't really burned be opened to the public again. The senseless closures are quite frustrating, in my opinion.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Hidden Tower : Gnosis (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: Indeed, thanks for putting up these routes, William. Daniel and I had a great time climbing a few of them and look forward to going back. The rock is really good and the routes are varied and challenging. My crack climbing skills are sub-par so I found Gnosis more difficult than Cryptonomicon. It'll be fun to work on Gnosis.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Illusions (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: I'm a big fan of arÍtes, and this one was full value arÍte climbing. I loved this route. And it's shady all day. Adding to the overall satisfaction, the bolt spacing is a bit airy by today's standards but very safe.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments:
Jason Halladay wrote:
Unfortunately, as of 9/7/2011 the USFS has closed the trailhead that had served as the access to UEF since the Las Conchas Fire. Signs and red ribbon are now posted at the trailhead/parking area.

LeeAB wrote:
That is interesting since it was not there over Labor Day weekend. Wonder what changed their minds?


As I understand it the Jemez Ranger District has a relatively new ranger. The new ranger had talked wi... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: Unfortunately, as of 9/7/2011 the USFS has closed the trailhead that had served as the access to UEF since the Las Conchas Fire. Signs and red ribbon are now posted at the trailhead/parking area.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Call to Arms (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: The big plank you traverse left across at the top to reach the anchors sketched me out a bit. I'd hate to send that straight down on the belayer. It's probably fine but sure looks precarious.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : The Amphitheater : Nendo Dango (5.10a/b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 18, 2011

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Comments:

Source: Nendo Dango


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