I really hate to see bolting and then chopping "wars" nearly as much as I don't appreciate someone adding bolts to an existing line so I didn't take it upon myself to chop the bolts. I hope if someone decides to chop the new bolts, they'll first contact the the FA party to get their opinion. I know Cam Burns, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) , frequents MP so contacting him would be easy. And for all we know, the person that added the bolts may have ... more >>
Comments: I swapped out all the hangers and the anchor on this route today with painted/colored hardware since this route is in such a high, non-climber-traffic area and the shiny anchors were easily visible from the highway. When I tried to remove the hanger on the first bolt, the bolt spun in the hole and had a lot of play in the hole. Since it was in a non-optimal spot anyway (a dished area that made it difficult to clip), I placed a new bolt/hanger to the right. I was able to pry the original wedge b... more >>
Comments: Star ratings on MP are subjective and everyone gets their own vote which leads to a nice consensus grade. Also, I believe most people consider the star ratings "local to the area". That is, Esmerelda gets four stars from me because I believe it's very much worth doing at Dead Cholla compared to the other routes I've climbed there.
Comments: I'm stoked you enjoyed the route, Rich, and thanks for the kind words. After the investment in time to clean the line, I'm happy to hear it's seeing some traffic. We're heading into Diablo season now and I'm looking forward to getting back on this line and the other new additions to the area this year.
I climbed it again today and, like others that have opined about it, I feel it's 10+. I changed the rating here on MP.
Noticed two new routes today on Gateway Rock, the one on the far right was excellent, what's the grade on these?
The far right route is Forest, a former gear route that was recently retro-bolted. The other newer, short route is Unknown 5.7. I don't know who put up the routes but I think it was the same persons based on the identical hardware.
Comments: 9/24/2011 - Some friends were given a formal warning ticket from the USFS at the A37 parking area for being in "a burned area". Expect formal closure signs at A37 this week. Consider calling or writing to the Jemez ranger district of the Santa Fe National Forest to ask that areas that aren't really burned be opened to the public again. The senseless closures are quite frustrating, in my opinion.
Comments: Indeed, thanks for putting up these routes, William. Daniel and I had a great time climbing a few of them and look forward to going back. The rock is really good and the routes are varied and challenging. My crack climbing skills are sub-par so I found Gnosis more difficult than Cryptonomicon. It'll be fun to work on Gnosis.
Comments: I'm a big fan of arÍtes, and this one was full value arÍte climbing. I loved this route. And it's shady all day. Adding to the overall satisfaction, the bolt spacing is a bit airy by today's standards but very safe.
Comments: Unfortunately, as of 9/7/2011 the USFS has closed the trailhead that had served as the access to UEF since the Las Conchas Fire. Signs and red ribbon are now posted at the trailhead/parking area.
Comments: The big plank you traverse left across at the top to reach the anchors sketched me out a bit. I'd hate to send that straight down on the belayer. It's probably fine but sure looks precarious.
Comments: You're welcome J. I went up the rest of the canyon beyond the climbing area yesterday and it's pretty bad up there. Most of the way up, both sides of the canyon are burned with very little ground vegetation remaining. I'm guessing that even if Santa Fe NF lifts the stage III restrictions, Pajarito Canyon will remain closed for quite some time due to flood potential.
Comments: I got my first look at the Dungeon post Las Conchas Fire and was pleased to see the actual climbing area was mostly spared from the fire. The area the approach trail passes through was scorched heavily and little to no ground vegetation exists there now. This would be a bad place to be during a heavy rainfall due to the flooding potential. The area still remains closed as part of the Santa Fe National Forest closure and will likely be closed for a... more >>
Comments: Thankfully Las Conchas and nearby areas Area 37 and Upper East Fork appear to have avoided major fire damage, surprisingly. I saw a photo of Area 37 today and was very surprised it didn't look worse. It appears the approach trail to Upper East Fork is burned pretty severely but reports are the climbing area itself and trees above the walls were spared.
Now to hope for some rain so the Santa Fe National Forest can re-open...
Comments: Thanks guys. The light was quite dramatic that evening. Snow squalls had been passing through all day and then the sun peeked through the clouds right before setting and illuminated the Sisters for a short bit. Very dramatic.
Comments: On 6/3/11, I sure didn't like the looks of the block all the anchor slings were slung around (the block wiggled a bit) so we slung a *much* larger block off to the left and used the biner from the "fixed" nut at the crux and an old locker of mine on the new anchor sling. Booty it if you want but definitely check out the old anchor block first--it's sketchy.