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Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Jason Halladay


Point Rank: # 33
Total Points: 8,987
Last Year: 1,930
Last 30 Days: 70
675 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 4976 | Routes 333 | Areas 56 | Photos 852 | Page Improvements | Comments 557 | Posts 376 | Stars 1634 | Ratings 1168
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Terry, please see my reply to your comment(s) on the Unrelenting Nines main page.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: I have been out of climbing for nearly twenty years and now am back. When I saw the chopped disaster at the top I wondered "Why?". The exit is a ledge not a "blank face". Slings work. This area was considered too short for "real" leads hence the top-rope designation. I understand that rock gym leads are short( I climb there too) and most truly difficult leads are not sustained. This does not give licencse to those that follow the FA's to modify the climb to there personal ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 25, 2012

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Comments: Nice one, Chris. Thanks.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Margalef : Raco de les Espadelles
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 15, 2012

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Comments: Regarding "Getting There", the "good dirt road" by the colorful dumpsters that you turn left on, is now paved with concrete. It's hard to tell because the red/brown soil has dye the concrete such that is looks like dirt.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: texasclimber22, the Stone Age Gym posted on Facebook this week:
Stone Age Climbing Gym wrote:
We just got word that Last Chance will NOT open on April 6th as promised. No word on the new date.



Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: Thank you David. Since I'm not in the firmly anti-fixed draws camp, I have little else to say on this topic. If the fixed draw gets moved back to the second bolt, I'm not going to move it again and I'll work around it, stick it or rodeo clip it.

I'm not policing the area and my opinion holds the same value as anyone else's. I spoke, in person, this morning to the climber that installed it. I have no qualms about his intent--it's purely good-natured.

To address the topic of why some fixed dra... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: David, I find I often, well, sometimes, I appreciate the points you make on this site but really dislike the condescending and insulting tone you frequently employ. This can be a good, productive discussion without condescension. Locals can, and do, successfully put a rope through a hanging draw. I certainly know how to do it so I don't need to search this site.
If safety concerns are the primary concern, I contend it is 100% safer to stick clip the bolt before starting up rather than having a ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: Thanks J. There was quite a bit of snow surrounding the walls and the reflected light really brightened up a normally dark area.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: Whoah nelly! Good stuff y'all. As I said, fixed draws don't bother me greatly and make sense when they facilitate cleaning or the clip is super difficult. Neither of which are the case for bolt 2 on Moat Jump. It's an easy clean and there's a wrap-around handle-bar jug just left of the bolt.

Sahalie's "all or nothing" suggestion isn't practical either, IMO. If that were the case there'd be chains/draws all over crags if the crag had one route that was difficult to clean and really benefited fro... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 27, 2012

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Comments: We discovered a "fixed" draw (nylon draw with screw link attachment) on the second bolt of this route recently. Because it's very common practice for most to stick clip the second bolt, and the fixed draw hindered that, we moved this fixed draw down to the first bolt.

Fixed draws don't bother me but I suspect it won't last on the route for long because the route's easy to clean, sees a lot of traffic and one of the still-active members of the FA party isn't a big fan of fixed draws.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Alice in Banana Land (5.10-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: The bolt anchor at the top of this route really needs another set of screw links or rap rings on the existing screw links. Currently they lay flat (parallel) to the rock so pulling your rope through them results in nasty coiling of the rope.


Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Psycho-Path (5.9+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: This route on Psycho Tower is super fun. Never scary nor difficult but with some wild exposure and great summit. Extremely well-protected too. One doesn't need much of a rack other than ~10 slings/draws. We only used two pieces of gear on the entire route (on pitch 2); a red C3 and a #2 Camalot.

Psycho Tower makes for a great introduction to desert tower climbing.




Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Psycho-Path (5.9+) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 16, 2012

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Comments: I presume this is Nameless Face that is commonly known as a separate route or alternate start to Psycho-Path?


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall : TR, Project (5.12)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this yesterday (with one fall getting into the slot) not realizing, A.) It was a project and B.) Some gear above the roof was necessary. (I was able to step over on a ledge after the roof and haul up some gear, though, so it was fine.)
Despite some punky rock, I enjoyed it. Lots of awkward holds, body tension, funky movements and even some chimneying-type stuff. As testament to the funky moves, I'm quite sore now; 24+ hours later.

If it's not an open project, I'll stay off... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Sewer Crag
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: Better parking beta for the Sewer Crag is to park at the RC car track on the right side (south side) of the Overlook road just before the main Overlook parking area. Do not park at the county sewage facility parking area, please.

This is a fun little area that deserves a visit from the 11+/12- climbers. I lump it in the same gray area of access as The Y and Potrillo Cliffs in that I really don't think it's a problem to be climbing there despit... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Breakaway (5.10c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 1, 2012

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Comments: The second pitch looks improbably steep and intimidating for 5.10+ but the holds are positive. Dubious but positive. The position and sustained climbing on P2 is fantastic. If the rock quality was better this would easily be four stars. As it is, definitely pull down, not out, on the holds and go easy on the pulls.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 13, 2011

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Comments: Thanks Craig. Great pitch and route certainly. We really enjoyed it.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Paul's Boutique (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: The first four hangers have been upgraded to Petzl steel hangers (no spinners anymore!) I'm no metallurgist, but the bolts appeared to be in good shape with little to no signs of rust. Most were sleeve bolts so I could pull out and inspect the bolts themselves but not the sleeves and cones, of course.

The fifth bolt, with the worst-looking SMC hanger, is also a sleeve bolt but the sleeve and cone are spinning in the hole so I couldn't remove the bolt/hanger. Thus, it hasn't been upgraded yet. ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments:
JeremyA wrote:
You should've chopped the bolts as well.


I really hate to see bolting and then chopping "wars" nearly as much as I don't appreciate someone adding bolts to an existing line so I didn't take it upon myself to chop the bolts. I hope if someone decides to chop the new bolts, they'll first contact the the FA party to get their opinion. I know Cam Burns, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) , frequents MP so contacting him would be easy. And for all we know, the person that added the bolts may have ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 26, 2011

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Comments: I swapped out the first five hangers on this route with colored/painted hangers today since the route is in a high non-climber-traffic area.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Unknown (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 26, 2011

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Comments: I swapped out all the hangers and the anchor on this route today with painted/colored hardware since this route is in such a high, non-climber-traffic area and the shiny anchors were easily visible from the highway.
When I tried to remove the hanger on the first bolt, the bolt spun in the hole and had a lot of play in the hole. Since it was in a non-optimal spot anyway (a dished area that made it difficult to clip), I placed a new bolt/hanger to the right. I was able to pry the original wedge b... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Full Retard (5.13b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: I'm not offended in the least. "You don't buy that? Ask Sean Penn, 2001."


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Needle and Squaretops : The Retaining Wall : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Wow, that is awesome (both the register find and communication with Dave Hahn about it.) And the note mentioning a glacier in a gully in the Organs? I wouldn't have expected that.


Location: NM : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: Looking forward to more info on this route. Looks like great position for sure.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Dead Cholla Wall : Esmerelda (5.11)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: Star ratings on MP are subjective and everyone gets their own vote which leads to a nice consensus grade. Also, I believe most people consider the star ratings "local to the area". That is, Esmerelda gets four stars from me because I believe it's very much worth doing at Dead Cholla compared to the other routes I've climbed there.


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