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 ADVANCED
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Jason Halladay


Point Rank: # 36
Total Points: 8,504
Last Year: 1,667
Last 30 Days: 48
635 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jason Halladay been climbing?










Contributions


All 4774 | Routes 313 | Areas 50 | Photos 817 | Page Improvments | Comments 539 | Posts 348 | Stars 1566 | Ratings 1141
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments:
JeremyA wrote:
You should've chopped the bolts as well.


I really hate to see bolting and then chopping "wars" nearly as much as I don't appreciate someone adding bolts to an existing line so I didn't take it upon myself to chop the bolts. I hope if someone decides to chop the new bolts, they'll first contact the the FA party to get their opinion. I know Cam Burns, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) , frequents MP so contacting him would be easy. And for all we know, the person that added the bolts may have ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 26, 2011

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Comments: I swapped out the first five hangers on this route with colored/painted hangers today since the route is in a high non-climber-traffic area.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Unknown (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 26, 2011

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Comments: I swapped out all the hangers and the anchor on this route today with painted/colored hardware since this route is in such a high, non-climber-traffic area and the shiny anchors were easily visible from the highway.
When I tried to remove the hanger on the first bolt, the bolt spun in the hole and had a lot of play in the hole. Since it was in a non-optimal spot anyway (a dished area that made it difficult to clip), I placed a new bolt/hanger to the right. I was able to pry the original wedge b... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Full Retard (5.13b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: I'm not offended in the least. "You don't buy that? Ask Sean Penn, 2001."


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Needle and Squaretops : The Retaining Wall : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Wow, that is awesome (both the register find and communication with Dave Hahn about it.) And the note mentioning a glacier in a gully in the Organs? I wouldn't have expected that.


Location: NM : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: Looking forward to more info on this route. Looks like great position for sure.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Dead Cholla Wall : Esmerelda (5.11)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: Star ratings on MP are subjective and everyone gets their own vote which leads to a nice consensus grade. Also, I believe most people consider the star ratings "local to the area". That is, Esmerelda gets four stars from me because I believe it's very much worth doing at Dead Cholla compared to the other routes I've climbed there.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Xibalba (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: I'm stoked you enjoyed the route, Rich, and thanks for the kind words. After the investment in time to clean the line, I'm happy to hear it's seeing some traffic. We're heading into Diablo season now and I'm looking forward to getting back on this line and the other new additions to the area this year.

I climbed it again today and, like others that have opined about it, I feel it's 10+. I changed the rating here on MP.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments:
Bill Matlin wrote:
Noticed two new routes today on Gateway Rock, the one on the far right was excellent, what's the grade on these?

The far right route is Forest, a former gear route that was recently retro-bolted. The other newer, short route is Unknown 5.7. I don't know who put up the routes but I think it was the same persons based on the identical hardware.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : I & Eye (5.11+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: I'm always amazed at natural, cool, unique features on routes such as the "eye" hole on this route. Tricky, fun and sustained arÍte climbing make for a great line.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: 9/24/2011 - Some friends were given a formal warning ticket from the USFS at the A37 parking area for being in "a burned area". Expect formal closure signs at A37 this week.
Consider calling or writing to the Jemez ranger district of the Santa Fe National Forest to ask that areas that aren't really burned be opened to the public again. The senseless closures are quite frustrating, in my opinion.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Hidden Tower : Gnosis (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: Indeed, thanks for putting up these routes, William. Daniel and I had a great time climbing a few of them and look forward to going back. The rock is really good and the routes are varied and challenging. My crack climbing skills are sub-par so I found Gnosis more difficult than Cryptonomicon. It'll be fun to work on Gnosis.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Illusions (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: I'm a big fan of arÍtes, and this one was full value arÍte climbing. I loved this route. And it's shady all day. Adding to the overall satisfaction, the bolt spacing is a bit airy by today's standards but very safe.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments:
Jason Halladay wrote:
Unfortunately, as of 9/7/2011 the USFS has closed the trailhead that had served as the access to UEF since the Las Conchas Fire. Signs and red ribbon are now posted at the trailhead/parking area.

LeeAB wrote:
That is interesting since it was not there over Labor Day weekend. Wonder what changed their minds?


As I understand it the Jemez Ranger District has a relatively new ranger. The new ranger had talked wi... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: Unfortunately, as of 9/7/2011 the USFS has closed the trailhead that had served as the access to UEF since the Las Conchas Fire. Signs and red ribbon are now posted at the trailhead/parking area.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Call to Arms (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: The big plank you traverse left across at the top to reach the anchors sketched me out a bit. I'd hate to send that straight down on the belayer. It's probably fine but sure looks precarious.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : The Amphitheater : Nendo Dango (5.10a/b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 18, 2011

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Comments:

Source: Nendo Dango


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 17, 2011

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Comments: A number of good trip reports and a nice topo by Gary Clark's NA Classics for this route can be found on the Los Alamos Mountaineers repository for the NA Classics collection.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : Black Magic Spell (5.11)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 11, 2011

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Comments: We only climbed five routes at PR on our recent visit, and this one was by far my favorite. Bouldery, gear protected start to super fun moves on stellar rock to the top. Kudos.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: You're welcome J. I went up the rest of the canyon beyond the climbing area yesterday and it's pretty bad up there. Most of the way up, both sides of the canyon are burned with very little ground vegetation remaining. I'm guessing that even if Santa Fe NF lifts the stage III restrictions, Pajarito Canyon will remain closed for quite some time due to flood potential.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Randall's Badger Sanctuary ... : The Honey Badger (5.12c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments:



Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 7, 2011

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Comments: I got my first look at the Dungeon post Las Conchas Fire and was pleased to see the actual climbing area was mostly spared from the fire. The area the approach trail passes through was scorched heavily and little to no ground vegetation exists there now. This would be a bad place to be during a heavy rainfall due to the flooding potential. The area still remains closed as part of the Santa Fe National Forest closure and will likely be closed for a... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: Thankfully Las Conchas and nearby areas Area 37 and Upper East Fork appear to have avoided major fire damage, surprisingly. I saw a photo of Area 37 today and was very surprised it didn't look worse. It appears the approach trail to Upper East Fork is burned pretty severely but reports are the climbing area itself and trees above the walls were spared.

Now to hope for some rain so the Santa Fe National Forest can re-open...


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: Thanks guys. The light was quite dramatic that evening. Snow squalls had been passing through all day and then the sun peeked through the clouds right before setting and illuminated the Sisters for a short bit. Very dramatic.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : Harvest (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: On 6/3/11, I sure didn't like the looks of the block all the anchor slings were slung around (the block wiggled a bit) so we slung a *much* larger block off to the left and used the biner from the "fixed" nut at the crux and an old locker of mine on the new anchor sling. Booty it if you want but definitely check out the old anchor block first--it's sketchy.


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