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FA of The Great Potato (a.k.a. Mt. Ore Ida), Withi...


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 26 mins ago
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Jason Halladay
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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All 5242 | Routes 349 | Areas 60 | Photos 899 | Page Improvements | Comments 586 | Posts 427 | Stars 1707 | Ratings 1214
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Emerald Forest (5.11b PG13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: Great climbing! The initial three or four bolts of thin climbing on bullet, water-polished rock is tough but very well protected. The variety of climbing on this line is awesome. I placed a couple of bomber small nuts and RPs, a red link cam and yellow link cam in a horizontal way up high.
We replaced the cord and beefed up the rap ring on the anchor today, 12/27/2013.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: The wall must get its name from the bushwacking you'll do to get there. Thankfully, as of today, the bushes have been clipped and the going is much, much easier. That said, it still took us at least an hour and a half to reach the base of the wall and we're quite familiar with RRCNCA trails and approaches. Nonetheless, it's totally worth the hike to climb on the wall. Great rock and amazing position.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Jungle Wall (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: Just plain fun on some of the best rock I've climbed at in RRCNCA (second to the bullet rock of the Dark Shadows area on Mescalito.)

If you happen to own an 80 meter rope you don't need a second rope. With an 80m the leader can be lowered to a the comfy ledge up hill of the start of the route, belay the second up the pitch and lower the second all the way back down to the start of the pitch, pull the rope and walk back down to the base. The bonus here, of course, is the opportunity to get grea... more >>


Location: NM
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments:
David Sahalie wrote:
I just drank a case of Yerba Mate and I don't know why.
If you watch closely you may catch a number of super subtle Yerba Mate product placement and product consumption scenes.


Location: NM
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: A Chalk Life, a movie about New Mexico climbing, is now available in seven parts on YouTube. I haven't watched it yet but the trailer had some great drone footage of NM areas.



Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Stay Puft (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: I hadn't been on this in a while, Jean, but after climbing it again this weekend I moved the third bolt up about 14 inches making it much safer going to the fixed cable draw. The third bolt is now a bit of a reachy clip to hang the draw but my 5'5" wife was able to hang it so it's not too bad.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Paul's Boutique (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: I finally got to fixing up the lower part of the route yesterday. I pulled the spinner first bolt out and replaced it with a new bolt a bit higher than where it was. I also added a lower first bolt and moved the now third bolt over to the right a bit so it doesn't interfere with the arete holds. The route now has six bolts. And it's not terribly dirty anymore. The more I climb this line, the more I enjoy it. Great arete climbing.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: The decision to post the area on MP was not taken lightly and a lot of thought and consideration went into the decision. No one thought for a moment that adding it to this site would be sharing with climbers but not with land managers. Increased traffic to the area was fully expected considering how unique and enjoyable the climbing is in the area.

Basically the entire main Capulin Canyon page text here came from a document drafted by Josh and edited by a few others that was then sent to the J... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Eric. I hear you for sure. It's a bit of a rock and a hard place at the moment but hopefully something better materializes in the future.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: It truly is an impressive area and I feel it's the best concentration of crack climbing in the state. Regarding the trails, that's a tough topic with no easy answers. It's a wilderness area and therefore more sensitive. The local climbers don't want to do anything to jeopardize access to the area and building new trails without the support of the forest service would do more harm than good. So for now it's just "climber's trails" following obvious ridges or gullies for minimal impact to access t... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Nice one, Aaron.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : The Hinterlands : The Viking (5.10+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: This route is further east of Capulin Tower all by its lonesome self. So keep on hiking past Capulin Tower to find it and give it some love.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Indecent Exposure Buttress : Indecent Exposure (5.9+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Some notes from my climb of this route this past weekend:
  • This route is bitchin'
  • There are three bolts on P1. The first one is about 8 to 10 feet up. Then another one ten feet higher. Then one going to the anchor near the end of the pitch.
  • I didn't bring enough slings/draws on the first pitch and I had five slings and four quickdraws. I found two great hueco slinging opportunities which each used a single-length sling and a quick draw.
  • I appreciated a set of nuts for both pitches, espe...
 more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Renegade Sector : We Were Jumpers Once and Yo... (5.12c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Corrected


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments:
Kirby Tate wrote:
Can anyone tell me when the climbing season at Shelf Road ends? I'm asking because my friends are coming out for Thanksgiving, and I was wondering if it would be a terrible idea to try and climb at Shelf Road.

Not a terrible idea at all. Winter (or near-winter) is a great time for climbing at Shelf Road. The arguably most-popular (and largest) cliff at Shelf, Cactus Cliff, is south-facing and is very climbable in Nov./Dec./Jan./Feb.
The caveat is, though, you'll want ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Caliban (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: 5.10 leaders might want to consider stick-clipping the high first bolt as the route is a bit tricky getting to a good clipping stance for the bolt.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Cyclops (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: During the closure of this area this summer (2013), rodents and birds took up residence in many of the big holes on this wall. Most notably, the big hole above the eponymous "cyclops" hole on this route has a big nest in it and a truly impressive mound of feces below it. Watch where you put your hands!


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: A great way to finish this route (and avoid the PITA double-rope rappels) is to climb one more pitch of 5.8 to finish on Questa Flatiron Original Route. To do this, move the belay from the top of the route to the tree with slings on the top of the Legs. Then climb fun cracks and the wild arete to the top of the Questa Flatiron. A short 45' rappel off the summit and into the gully affords you a nice, swift walk off. No need to climb with two ropes on BMPM.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments:
ian watson wrote:
Did you stick her nose in it?

We did bag it up and leave it on their car with a polite note asking to pack out poo and paper. Or at least the paper, and bury the rest. I can't believe how lazy and disrespectful people can be. Especially climbers in a clearly special place.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : El Norte : Sorry Mr Policeman But if I... (5.9-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Love me some Portugal. The Man.



Location: NM
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Evan, most of the towers in the Ghost Ranch area have been climbed, many years ago, but I've not heard of anyone repeating the climbs or seeking out other unclimbed cracks in the area. The routes on the Ghost Ranch towers are described here on MountainProject on the Ghost Ranch page. Having hiked in the area a few times, I've looked at cracks and the rock and didn't find it to be very good, generally, and would consider it serious adventure to climb that sandstone.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Sleeping Beauty Wall : Sleeping Beauty (5.11c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: We replaced the first hanger this weekend. The bolt is a newer, upgraded bolt in great condition so it's good to go again.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Renegade Sector : Endurance (5.11-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: I think this route is called "Endurance" (Mike Tupper FA) but I'll let someone with more familiarity with the area confirm this.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Red Hot Chili Powder (5.10b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the comments, fellas. I was a bit gripped on this, and that's unusual for me on Shelf 5.10s. I certainly do blame the rock quality for my over-gripping/cautious-gripping. My guess is the bolts are where they are because the rock is so dubious there aren't any other viable placements. I'm curious if the neighboring route, Block Party, felt as sketchy initially, too, but has cleaned up with many more years of traffic.
As for the bolt placements, if they're placed where the best rock is... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Berlin Wall (5.11a PG13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: My pleasure, Bob. Thanks for this and so many other routes at Shelf. I really enjoyed this route...the face looks so blank from below but has some wonderful pockets and edges on it.


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