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Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Jason Halladay


Point Rank: # 33
Total Points: 8,926
Last Year: 1,973
Last 30 Days: 34
651 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 4904 | Routes 333 | Areas 55 | Photos 844 | Page Improvments | Comments 552 | Posts 369 | Stars 1602 | Ratings 1149
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Ed Woody : Cobbles and Robbers (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Hey John, my impression of the situation is the holes weren't cleaned the best and the nuts on the threads are locked up so the wedge bolts rotate in the hole when one tries to loosen or tighten the nuts. But if the bolts are pulled on, the wedge still wedges. But I didn't have a crowbar or other device to pull on the bolt/hangers. I don't recall exactly what I tried but I was unable to get the bolts or hangers out/off. But I wasn't sketched out by the situation. Still, an anchor upgrade would b... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Ed Woody : Cobbles and Robbers (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Re: changing out the anchor hangers...I think this is the route I tried to change the anchors on a few years ago but the bolts spin in the holes so the nuts won't come off. But that shouldn't stop folks from trying again...my memory could be fuzzy. But if that's the case, drilling new holes may be necessary.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: To expand on Wally's comment, above, it should also be noted the "old road" runs parallel to the highway and you can access it from the top (higher up towards the top of the canyon) and the bottom (down at the bottom of the canyon).


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments:
KelNsteve wrote:
We are heading to ten sleep in July wondering if there is cell service at the primitive camping closest to the climbing?

No one in our group had any cell service in the canyon until we got near the lower fish hatchery en route to the town of Ten Sleep.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Chaos Buttress : Sloppy Seconds (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: As of July 2013 the anchors could use two additional screwlinks or leaver 'biners. As the setup was then, your rope would be crazy coiled if you lowered through the anchors. I traversed right to the anchors for B-1 Bomber Dude instead.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Whiny Baby Wall : The Cloud Peak Vista Traver... (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: This route description leaves a little to be desired.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : California Crag : Just in from L.A. (5.11-) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Jon. It was in the afternoon IIRC. The route is in a bit of a channel/canyon and the sunlight was bouncing off the wall behind the route. Pretty awesome.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : No Questa About It (5.9) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: I haven't climbed the No Questa route, Mark, but I'm glad you posted the route and topo. It looks super cool. I took this photo while poking around the area a month ago and realized it shows your arete, and the exit ledge at the top of P3, well. I'd like to get back up there to climb No Questa. Thanks.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Pegasus (5.12a) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: I'm going to be sad when that right hand undercling flake snaps. I'm impressed it has lasted this long. Super fun route.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Grendel (5.11b) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: I wouldn't and don't do it that way. My preference is for opposite-facing gates. Ironically, the draws on the route that day weren't ours.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Grotto : Buckeroo Banzai (V4) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: You trust that guy!?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains
By: Jason Halladay When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: FYI, Mick Shein's Sandia Rock guidebook has been updated in to a 2013 edition.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Red River Area : Roadside Distraction
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: Brandon, I found the Mountain Skills page here.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Gnar Wall : Tooth Fairy (5.10b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Thanks J Tot. I moved the three photos to Balls to the Wall


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: This cool video of a highline crossing of Pajarito Gorge gives a unique perspective on the area.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Chicken Heads (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: There are no bolts on this route. The common direct start, Chicken Shit, has a single bolt but after that it's gear in cracks and chickenhead-slingin' fun. You may be thinking of Five Years After, just to the left, which has a couple of bolts.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Knot Head (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: The route described here is "The Opportunist". Knot Head may indeed be the crack, though. I don't know the history of this wall. But the bolted line is "The Opportunist" as described by the guidebooks.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : The Opportunist (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: I took the opportunity today to put a hanger on the last bolt. The existing bolt appears solid, sound, and not corroded.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : ... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 21, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, Mark.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: Really cool, Doc. Thanks for the image and the history.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : The Quiet Storm (5.10+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 25, 2013

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Comments: Thanks J!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : ... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: This topo is quite good. Thanks.


Location: Notapplicable : 1 : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 17, 2013

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Comments: Dig the anodized purple bolts in there.


Location: Eric D : Climbing Photos : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 2, 2013

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Comments: At 6'5" I had such a terrible time climbing through that canal.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Grape Ape (5.10c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: Having just recently acquired an 80m rope, we now know one can lower off this route with a single 80m rope. I suspect the same is true for Blind Faith but we haven't tried it yet.


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