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Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a gr...


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 33
Total Points: 9,031
Last Year: 1,481
Last 30 Days: 28
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 5029 | Routes 333 | Areas 56 | Photos 859 | Page Improvements | Comments 566 | Posts 393 | Stars 1642 | Ratings 1180
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments:
Allison M wrote:
These two smarty pants decided to hike in from 59. Our road tripping car definitely doesn't qualify as high clearance and we NEEDED to see what Enchanted Tower was all about. The hike is about 15 miles and 6 hours round trip. Do I regret it? No. Would I do it again? No. Well.. maybe. Enchanted Tower is stelllar! Seroiusly, that road is rough. Don't consider driving in unless you have a car that can take it.
I love the dedication! Was the road snowy or is it passable right... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments:
DLach wrote:
My friend and I plan on doing some camping and climbing here over spring break. I do have some concerns though. Is it dangerous to camp near the climbing areas? Are the locals and break-ins really that bad? Thank you for any advice you can offer.

I've been going to El Rito sport and trad areas for years including overnight camping and never had a problem personally or known anyone that has had a problem. In my opinion the theft issue is... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments:
Claire23 wrote:
Are there any bathrooms or water available at the sport climbing area or at the camping along the road? Pit toilets or running water?

Unfortunately no restrooms or pit toilets near the El Rito sport or trad climbing areas. As for running water, a small stream called the Caņada de Potrero runs intermittently along the campsites near the sport climbing area parking. You'd certainly want to treat this water for drinking.


Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: While it's not the original summit register, it is pretty old! The text inside the front cover states it was placed there on December 18, 1962 and the early entries (including topos/drawings of routes) were copied into this 1962 register by Vincent Hoeman. In April 2010, I took photos of all ~62 pages in the register. It's an awesome list of who's-who in the climbing world over the decades. A totally cool relic and I hope it's still up there and in good shape.


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : Original Side : (05) Health Wall : Rob's an A (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: Given the name, I assumed you didn't name it Rob. Since you established it and did the FA, do you have a more appropriate name for it? I don't know anything about the Mentmore area (or local "politics") but we can certainly add the "a.k.a." text for an alternate name.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Emerald Forest (5.11b PG13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: Great climbing! The initial three or four bolts of thin climbing on bullet, water-polished rock is tough but very well protected. The variety of climbing on this line is awesome. I placed a couple of bomber small nuts and RPs, a red link cam and yellow link cam in a horizontal way up high.
We replaced the cord and beefed up the rap ring on the anchor today, 12/27/2013.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: The wall must get its name from the bushwacking you'll do to get there. Thankfully, as of today, the bushes have been clipped and the going is much, much easier. That said, it still took us at least an hour and a half to reach the base of the wall and we're quite familiar with RRCNCA trails and approaches. Nonetheless, it's totally worth the hike to climb on the wall. Great rock and amazing position.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Jungle Wall (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: Just plain fun on some of the best rock I've climbed at in RRCNCA (second to the bullet rock of the Dark Shadows area on Mescalito.)

If you happen to own an 80 meter rope you don't need a second rope. With an 80m the leader can be lowered to a the comfy ledge up hill of the start of the route, belay the second up the pitch and lower the second all the way back down to the start of the pitch, pull the rope and walk back down to the base. The bonus here, of course, is the opportunity to get grea... more >>


Location: NM
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments:
David Sahalie wrote:
I just drank a case of Yerba Mate and I don't know why.
If you watch closely you may catch a number of super subtle Yerba Mate product placement and product consumption scenes.


Location: NM
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: A Chalk Life, a movie about New Mexico climbing, is now available in seven parts on YouTube. I haven't watched it yet but the trailer had some great drone footage of NM areas.



Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Stay Puft (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: I hadn't been on this in a while, Jean, but after climbing it again this weekend I moved the third bolt up about 14 inches making it much safer going to the fixed cable draw. The third bolt is now a bit of a reachy clip to hang the draw but my 5'5" wife was able to hang it so it's not too bad.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Paul's Boutique (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: I finally got to fixing up the lower part of the route yesterday. I pulled the spinner first bolt out and replaced it with a new bolt a bit higher than where it was. I also added a lower first bolt and moved the now third bolt over to the right a bit so it doesn't interfere with the arete holds. The route now has six bolts. And it's not terribly dirty anymore. The more I climb this line, the more I enjoy it. Great arete climbing.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: The decision to post the area on MP was not taken lightly and a lot of thought and consideration went into the decision. No one thought for a moment that adding it to this site would be sharing with climbers but not with land managers. Increased traffic to the area was fully expected considering how unique and enjoyable the climbing is in the area.

Basically the entire main Capulin Canyon page text here came from a document drafted by Josh and edited by a few others that was then sent to the J... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Eric. I hear you for sure. It's a bit of a rock and a hard place at the moment but hopefully something better materializes in the future.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: It truly is an impressive area and I feel it's the best concentration of crack climbing in the state. Regarding the trails, that's a tough topic with no easy answers. It's a wilderness area and therefore more sensitive. The local climbers don't want to do anything to jeopardize access to the area and building new trails without the support of the forest service would do more harm than good. So for now it's just "climber's trails" following obvious ridges or gullies for minimal impact to access t... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Nice one, Aaron.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : The Hinterlands : The Viking (5.10+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: This route is further east of Capulin Tower all by its lonesome self. So keep on hiking past Capulin Tower to find it and give it some love.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Indecent Exposure Buttress : Indecent Exposure (5.9+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Some notes from my climb of this route this past weekend:
  • This route is bitchin'
  • There are three bolts on P1. The first one is about 8 to 10 feet up. Then another one ten feet higher. Then one going to the anchor near the end of the pitch.
  • I didn't bring enough slings/draws on the first pitch and I had five slings and four quickdraws. I found two great hueco slinging opportunities which each used a single-length sling and a quick draw.
  • I appreciated a set of nuts for both pitches, espe...
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renegade Sector : We Were Jumpers Once and Yo... (5.12c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Corrected


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments:
Kirby Tate wrote:
Can anyone tell me when the climbing season at Shelf Road ends? I'm asking because my friends are coming out for Thanksgiving, and I was wondering if it would be a terrible idea to try and climb at Shelf Road.

Not a terrible idea at all. Winter (or near-winter) is a great time for climbing at Shelf Road. The arguably most-popular (and largest) cliff at Shelf, Cactus Cliff, is south-facing and is very climbable in Nov./Dec./Jan./Feb.
The caveat is, though, you'll want ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Caliban (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: 5.10 leaders might want to consider stick-clipping the high first bolt as the route is a bit tricky getting to a good clipping stance for the bolt.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Cyclops (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: During the closure of this area this summer (2013), rodents and birds took up residence in many of the big holes on this wall. Most notably, the big hole above the eponymous "cyclops" hole on this route has a big nest in it and a truly impressive mound of feces below it. Watch where you put your hands!


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: A great way to finish this route (and avoid the PITA double-rope rappels) is to climb one more pitch of 5.8 to finish on Questa Flatiron Original Route. To do this, move the belay from the top of the route to the tree with slings on the top of the Legs. Then climb fun cracks and the wild arete to the top of the Questa Flatiron. A short 45' rappel off the summit and into the gully affords you a nice, swift walk off. No need to climb with two ropes on BMPM.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments:
ian watson wrote:
Did you stick her nose in it?

We did bag it up and leave it on their car with a polite note asking to pack out poo and paper. Or at least the paper, and bury the rest. I can't believe how lazy and disrespectful people can be. Especially climbers in a clearly special place.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : El Norte : Sorry Mr Policeman But if I... (5.9-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Love me some Portugal. The Man.



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