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Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Jason Halladay


Point Rank: # 33
Total Points: 9,009
Last Year: 1,871
Last 30 Days: 22
687 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 4998 | Routes 333 | Areas 56 | Photos 855 | Page Improvements | Comments 564 | Posts 384 | Stars 1636 | Ratings 1170
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments:
Eric Whitbeck wrote:
Aaron, thanks for the topo upgrade. My vote is for Thorsten to be the bikini clad local.

+1!!!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Flake Out (5.11b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: Oh, yes, Nathan, that fifth bolt is missing its hanger currently. I've been meaning to replace the hanger but haven't been back up there yet. Hope it goes well for you next time!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Flake Out (5.11b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Hey Nathan, I don't think the bolt protecting the crux is missing (it was there a few weeks ago when I last climbed the route.) As I recall it's just below the crux bulge. I replaced that bolt a few years ago with a higher-quality 1/2" bolt after the original, weird bolt had taken a beating from falls.
It is a bit of a fall but a clean fall, if I recall correctly. Allison (the one pictured here) does the crux by getting her right hand in the crack and laying it back to get above the bulge. I'm ... more >>


Location: International : South America : Ecuador : Cayambe : Standard Route (Mod. Snow)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: Looking forward to the details on this route


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Flake Out (5.11b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: The fifth bolt is missing its hanger. Normally I'd have fixed this but didn't have a nut that fit the bolt. I'll work to fix it next time I'm out there. Given the issues with many of the bolts/hangers on this route, I'm inclined to rebolt the entire route, actually.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Can I get an autographed copy of your $50 guidebook!?


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas
By: Jason Halladay When: May 24, 2014

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Comments:
Chet Butterworth wrote:
will be here in the next few days, what's the most recent word of camping in Las Conchas?

A couple of years ago (at least) the forest service closed all camping along the river at Las Conchas in the first 1.6 miles (or so, maybe further) from the highway. So effectively no camping. But there are forest service campgrounds not too far away. Look for Redondo Campground or San Antonio Campgrounds to the west a number of miles.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renaissance Sector : Renaissance Man (5.12-)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the input guys. For the time being, I've sorted Renaissance Man as George suggested (right of "Whole Lotta Rosey", left of "Ring Around the Rosey"). If any of the Standby Shack regulars have a correction, please comment.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: Your photoshop skillz are amazing, Aaron


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45 Boulder : Crimp Chimp (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 9, 2014

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Comments:
david Graham wrote:
...IDK why it's called crimp chimp but it's a cool name.

Probably because the first half of the route is mostly all crimps. :-)


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Hidden Tower : Turkey Bacon (5.11c)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: A really fun route with some amazing holds on it. Before you rope up, take a good look at the holds down low--there are some blind reaches/throws. The first clip is balancy/tricky so you want to stick clip it (or maybe even the second bolt.) Cool and airy finish.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area
By: Jason Halladay When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: With El Rito Sport in season again, I'd like to make some suggestions to help keep the crag cleaner and in better shape:

  • If you have to poop, please walk a long way from any climbing wall and either dig a hole or uproot buried cobbles for an easy hole. Pack out used TP (or, if you're one of the two people who've obviously wiped with your underpants and left them on top of the pile, pack out your soiled underpants.)
  • Stay on the trails! The rocks and soil at the crag are very loose and extr...
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 3, 2014

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Comments: Not unethical at all when you put the effort into establishing the line. I hope your elbow continues to feel better so you can get back on the route.


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Galatinani : Nymfi (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: What RyanO says!! Of eight days climbing on Kalymnos this trip, this is the standout. Just wow.

Also, this route description here is brilliant!


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Secret Garden : Ricounet (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: This route is super rad!


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Jurassic Park
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: This is a wonderful little area stacked with amazing climbing. It's well worth the extra effort to get here and you're likely to have the place to yourself or with minimal others. A fine day is to start climbing at Spartacus and then move up to Jurassic when Spartacus gets crowded.


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Ghost Kitchen : ... : Dafni (5.11b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: If you climb one route at the Ghost Kitchen, climb this one. Amazing features that seem too good to be true.


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Ghost Kitchen : ... : Lilo (5.11c/d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: All four of us really, really enjoyed this route. Great variety of climbing to fun and featured climbing that flowed well. Definitely worth doing and not as popular as neighboring routes.


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Ghost Kitchen : ... : Serena (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: The hardest move on the route is clipping the anchors. Probably best to clip from well below the anchors. You'll appreciate the lead protection bolt so close to the anchors.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Easy Bake Alcove : Schwing! (5.12b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Despite a number of attempts, and a few by me, I haven't seen anyone pull off the bypass to the right on lead without first hanging on the bolt at the crux. It's really hard to climb into it naturally. But if it goes, that's cool in that it keeps the difficultly a bit more in line with the climbing below and above the crux.
That said, the bouldery crux is super fun!


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments:
John Tex wrote:
How much snow is there in March, if any at all?

John, I'm far from a local but knowing NM winters, the March snowpack will vary. This year I'm guessing there's little snow in the area now. The north-facing slopes will likely retain snow into April but all other aspects ought to be pretty dry. The long road in is in some narrow canyon spots at times so my educated guess is it's kinda sloppy and/or icy in spots into April. Hopefully someone more local will chime in if they ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Rodao (5.11c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: Reportedly the bolt hanger just above the roof is coldshut that is now blown-out and not to be trusted. If you're planning to do this route, take a new hanger and replace the blown-out one (although you'll have to get to top somehow, first!).


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Retirement Wall
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: Great route names fellas. Big kudos to the name Metamuscle. As brilliant as the route.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments:
Allison M wrote:
These two smarty pants decided to hike in from 59. Our road tripping car definitely doesn't qualify as high clearance and we NEEDED to see what Enchanted Tower was all about. The hike is about 15 miles and 6 hours round trip. Do I regret it? No. Would I do it again? No. Well.. maybe. Enchanted Tower is stelllar! Seroiusly, that road is rough. Don't consider driving in unless you have a car that can take it.
I love the dedication! Was the road snowy or is it passable right... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments:
DLach wrote:
My friend and I plan on doing some camping and climbing here over spring break. I do have some concerns though. Is it dangerous to camp near the climbing areas? Are the locals and break-ins really that bad? Thank you for any advice you can offer.

I've been going to El Rito sport and trad areas for years including overnight camping and never had a problem personally or known anyone that has had a problem. In my opinion the theft issue is... more >>


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