Comments: This is a wonderful little area stacked with amazing climbing. It's well worth the extra effort to get here and you're likely to have the place to yourself or with minimal others. A fine day is to start climbing at Spartacus and then move up to Jurassic when Spartacus gets crowded.
Comments: Despite a number of attempts, and a few by me, I haven't seen anyone pull off the bypass to the right on lead without first hanging on the bolt at the crux. It's really hard to climb into it naturally. But if it goes, that's cool in that it keeps the difficultly a bit more in line with the climbing below and above the crux. That said, the bouldery crux is super fun!
John, I'm far from a local but knowing NM winters, the March snowpack will vary. This year I'm guessing there's little snow in the area now. The north-facing slopes will likely retain snow into April but all other aspects ought to be pretty dry. The long road in is in some narrow canyon spots at times so my educated guess is it's kinda sloppy and/or icy in spots into April. Hopefully someone more local will chime in if they ... more >>
Comments: Reportedly the bolt hanger just above the roof is coldshut that is now blown-out and not to be trusted. If you're planning to do this route, take a new hanger and replace the blown-out one (although you'll have to get to top somehow, first!).
These two smarty pants decided to hike in from 59. Our road tripping car definitely doesn't qualify as high clearance and we NEEDED to see what Enchanted Tower was all about. The hike is about 15 miles and 6 hours round trip. Do I regret it? No. Would I do it again? No. Well.. maybe. Enchanted Tower is stelllar! Seroiusly, that road is rough. Don't consider driving in unless you have a car that can take it.
I love the dedication! Was the road snowy or is it passable right... more >>
My friend and I plan on doing some camping and climbing here over spring break. I do have some concerns though. Is it dangerous to camp near the climbing areas? Are the locals and break-ins really that bad? Thank you for any advice you can offer.
I've been going to El Rito sport and trad areas for years including overnight camping and never had a problem personally or known anyone that has had a problem. In my opinion the theft issue is... more >>
Are there any bathrooms or water available at the sport climbing area or at the camping along the road? Pit toilets or running water?
Unfortunately no restrooms or pit toilets near the El Rito sport or trad climbing areas. As for running water, a small stream called the Caņada de Potrero runs intermittently along the campsites near the sport climbing area parking. You'd certainly want to treat this water for drinking.
Comments: While it's not the original summit register, it is pretty old! The text inside the front cover states it was placed there on December 18, 1962 and the early entries (including topos/drawings of routes) were copied into this 1962 register by Vincent Hoeman. In April 2010, I took photos of all ~62 pages in the register. It's an awesome list of who's-who in the climbing world over the decades. A totally cool relic and I hope it's still up there and in good shape.
Comments: Given the name, I assumed you didn't name it Rob. Since you established it and did the FA, do you have a more appropriate name for it? I don't know anything about the Mentmore area (or local "politics") but we can certainly add the "a.k.a." text for an alternate name.
Comments: Great climbing! The initial three or four bolts of thin climbing on bullet, water-polished rock is tough but very well protected. The variety of climbing on this line is awesome. I placed a couple of bomber small nuts and RPs, a red link cam and yellow link cam in a horizontal way up high. We replaced the cord and beefed up the rap ring on the anchor today, 12/27/2013.
Comments: The wall must get its name from the bushwacking you'll do to get there. Thankfully, as of today, the bushes have been clipped and the going is much, much easier. That said, it still took us at least an hour and a half to reach the base of the wall and we're quite familiar with RRCNCA trails and approaches. Nonetheless, it's totally worth the hike to climb on the wall. Great rock and amazing position.
Comments: Just plain fun on some of the best rock I've climbed at in RRCNCA (second to the bullet rock of the Dark Shadows area on Mescalito.)
If you happen to own an 80 meter rope you don't need a second rope. With an 80m the leader can be lowered to a the comfy ledge up hill of the start of the route, belay the second up the pitch and lower the second all the way back down to the start of the pitch, pull the rope and walk back down to the base. The bonus here, of course, is the opportunity to get grea... more >>
Comments: I hadn't been on this in a while, Jean, but after climbing it again this weekend I moved the third bolt up about 14 inches making it much safer going to the fixed cable draw. The third bolt is now a bit of a reachy clip to hang the draw but my 5'5" wife was able to hang it so it's not too bad.
Comments: I finally got to fixing up the lower part of the route yesterday. I pulled the spinner first bolt out and replaced it with a new bolt a bit higher than where it was. I also added a lower first bolt and moved the now third bolt over to the right a bit so it doesn't interfere with the arete holds. The route now has six bolts. And it's not terribly dirty anymore. The more I climb this line, the more I enjoy it. Great arete climbing.
Comments: The decision to post the area on MP was not taken lightly and a lot of thought and consideration went into the decision. No one thought for a moment that adding it to this site would be sharing with climbers but not with land managers. Increased traffic to the area was fully expected considering how unique and enjoyable the climbing is in the area.
Basically the entire main Capulin Canyon page text here came from a document drafted by Josh and edited by a few others that was then sent to the J... more >>
Comments: It truly is an impressive area and I feel it's the best concentration of crack climbing in the state. Regarding the trails, that's a tough topic with no easy answers. It's a wilderness area and therefore more sensitive. The local climbers don't want to do anything to jeopardize access to the area and building new trails without the support of the forest service would do more harm than good. So for now it's just "climber's trails" following obvious ridges or gullies for minimal impact to access t... more >>