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Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Jason Halladay


Point Rank: # 41
Total Points: 7,878
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Contributions


All (4587) | Routes (284) | Areas (39) | Photos (786) | Comments (523) | Posts (324) | Stars (1513) | Ratings (1118)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments:
Kirby Tate wrote:
Can anyone tell me when the climbing season at Shelf Road ends? I'm asking because my friends are coming out for Thanksgiving, and I was wondering if it would be a terrible idea to try and climb at Shelf Road.

Not a terrible idea at all. Winter (or near-winter) is a great time for climbing at Shelf Road. The arguably most-popular (and largest) cliff at Shelf, Cactus Cliff, is south-facing and is very climbable in Nov./Dec./Jan./Feb.
The caveat is, though, you'll want ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Caliban (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: 5.10 leaders might want to consider stick-clipping the high first bolt as the route is a bit tricky getting to a good clipping stance for the bolt.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Cyclops (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: During the closure of this area this summer (2013), rodents and birds took up residence in many of the big holes on this wall. Most notably, the big hole above the eponymous "cyclops" hole on this route has a big nest in it and a truly impressive mound of feces below it. Watch where you put your hands!


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: A great way to finish this route (and avoid the PITA double-rope rappels) is to climb one more pitch of 5.8 to finish on Questa Flatiron Original Route. To do this, move the belay from the top of the route to the tree with slings on the top of the Legs. Then climb fun cracks and the wild arete to the top of the Questa Flatiron. A short 45' rappel off the summit and into the gully affords you a nice, swift walk off. No need to climb with two ropes on BMPM.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments:
ian watson wrote:
Did you stick her nose in it?

We did bag it up and leave it on their car with a polite note asking to pack out poo and paper. Or at least the paper, and bury the rest. I can't believe how lazy and disrespectful people can be. Especially climbers in a clearly special place.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : El Norte : Sorry Mr Policeman But if I... (5.9-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Love me some Portugal. The Man.



Location: NM
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Evan, most of the towers in the Ghost Ranch area have been climbed, many years ago, but I've not heard of anyone repeating the climbs or seeking out other unclimbed cracks in the area. The routes on the Ghost Ranch towers are described here on MountainProject on the Ghost Ranch page. Having hiked in the area a few times, I've looked at cracks and the rock and didn't find it to be very good, generally, and would consider it serious adventure to climb that sandstone.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Sleeping Beauty Wall : Sleeping Beauty (5.11c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: We replaced the first hanger this weekend. The bolt is a newer, upgraded bolt in great condition so it's good to go again.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : Endurance (5.11-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: I think this route is called "Endurance" (Mike Tupper FA) but I'll let someone with more familiarity with the area confirm this.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Red Hot Chili Powder (5.10b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the comments, fellas. I was a bit gripped on this, and that's unusual for me on Shelf 5.10s. I certainly do blame the rock quality for my over-gripping/cautious-gripping. My guess is the bolts are where they are because the rock is so dubious there aren't any other viable placements. I'm curious if the neighboring route, Block Party, felt as sketchy initially, too, but has cleaned up with many more years of traffic.
As for the bolt placements, if they're placed where the best rock is... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Berlin Wall (5.11a PG13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: My pleasure, Bob. Thanks for this and so many other routes at Shelf. I really enjoyed this route...the face looks so blank from below but has some wonderful pockets and edges on it.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Matilda (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: You're on a roll with the route submission gems.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Don't Think Twice (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: Amazing route submission. Actually, it should be deleted. And this comment too.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Once Upon a Time (5.11c) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: Whoa now. This is the second comment in a week in the NM area chastising the photographed climber for not wearing a helmet. While I can appreciate the point being made, if MountainProject users go around making a "where's the helmet?" comment on every photo of a climber not wearing a helmet, we'll have a ridiculous amount of identical comments and therefore I don't feel these comments are necessary.

As a sometimes-helmet-wearing c... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Paul's Boutique (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Cam. I hope to get to the bolt replacement and relocations soon. The route is currently covered in dried dirt from the big rain storms White Rock experienced a month or so ago.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Juno Tower : Kicking It Old Testament (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Good thoughts, Scott. In subsequent climbs of the route, I've just climbed the fourth class vegetation to get to the real climbing instead of using the belay bolt we used initially. I recommend the 4th class action over the belay bolt and think the belay bolt might as well be removed.
I don't recall what the rock to the left of the 4th class vegetation looked like but if it climbs nicely into the route, that's great and it should be established. Have at it. I've never been a fan of the idea tha... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : South Organs : Achenbach Canyon : Easy Street (5.6)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Hi Forrest, don't take it personally--the rock is what it is. Having established a number of routes myself, I've realized a couple things:

The first thing a route developer/first ascensionist needs is thick skin. The second thing needed is the ability to accept criticism whether or not it's constructive criticism. Comments on the quality of rock or the quality of a route aren't necessarily comments aimed at you but, instead, the rock. You just happened to climb it first. Perhaps it could be cle... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Due to the Thompson Ridge fire, most of the Las Conchas area is closed until Oct. 1, 2013. The Cattle Call Wall Area is apparently open but that's it. For routes here, 10 quickdraws is more than enough and some routes can be set as TRs if you bring static line to tie off from trees at the top--the bolt anchors aren't accessible from the top.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Ergo (5.12a/b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: The contrived 5.12- crux can be avoided by going right at the bulge, as George suggests, to make a 5.11-ish line. But if you've done everything else at A37 (and the other Jemez areas are closed!) and you're looking for a new challenge, stay straight through the crux bulge for some interesting 5.12- climbing.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Cherry Pickin' (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: A great knee-bar in the slightly run-out section between bolts 3 and 4 makes that section much less scary. This is a super fun line with a fine variety of moves.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Ed Woody : Cobbles and Robbers (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Hey John, my impression of the situation is the holes weren't cleaned the best and the nuts on the threads are locked up so the wedge bolts rotate in the hole when one tries to loosen or tighten the nuts. But if the bolts are pulled on, the wedge still wedges. But I didn't have a crowbar or other device to pull on the bolt/hangers. I don't recall exactly what I tried but I was unable to get the bolts or hangers out/off. But I wasn't sketched out by the situation. Still, an anchor upgrade would b... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Ed Woody : Cobbles and Robbers (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Re: changing out the anchor hangers...I think this is the route I tried to change the anchors on a few years ago but the bolts spin in the holes so the nuts won't come off. But that shouldn't stop folks from trying again...my memory could be fuzzy. But if that's the case, drilling new holes may be necessary.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: To expand on Wally's comment, above, it should also be noted the "old road" runs parallel to the highway and you can access it from the top (higher up towards the top of the canyon) and the bottom (down at the bottom of the canyon).


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments:
KelNsteve wrote:
We are heading to ten sleep in July wondering if there is cell service at the primitive camping closest to the climbing?

No one in our group had any cell service in the canyon until we got near the lower fish hatchery en route to the town of Ten Sleep.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Chaos Buttress : Sloppy Seconds (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: As of July 2013 the anchors could use two additional screwlinks or leaver 'biners. As the setup was then, your rope would be crazy coiled if you lowered through the anchors. I traversed right to the anchors for B-1 Bomber Dude instead.


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