Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : The Temple
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul Davidson wrote: Just curious, but which of the admins is the one who has been excercising so much removal authority on here as of late?
I removed the above post by JeremyA. Most of this "discussion" seems borderline to begin with but the removed post was simply profane name calling.
This is the first post I've removed or edited as an administrator and I don't think any other NM admins are doing any heavy-handed administration either. Can you cite other instances of so much remo... more >>
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Who Left the Fridge Open? (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun and worthy route for sure. It'll be really nice after it sees some more traffic. We pulled off/kicked off some holds and other chunks/rocks on the route this past weekend, so it's cleaning up nicely. For the time being, a helmet for the belayer is recommended.
The big, stacked flake system at the top concerned us both, perhaps unnecessarily, so we climbed up onto it gingerly.
The lack of chalk on the holds was cool--that made for real onsight attempts.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Mark Finds Bob Bolting (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of early September 2012, this route is missing the fifth bolt hanger, and the anchor setup needs one quicklink on each bolt/hanger. The way it is now with a single carabiner on each cold shut will twist the #!*&% out of your rope. If you don't have quicklinks, rappel the route instead of lowering to minimize rope curling.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Welcome To The Machine (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Certainly not 10d. That must be a typo. It felt all of 11d to me. Continuously difficult ending in a tough set of moves.
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Santa Maria : ... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Colorfully crusty. Love the different lichen colors (but not all the rock lettuce.)
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Loose Cannon (5.13a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never been on this route so I can't speak to a prior existence of a chain draw on it. Earlier this year a nylon fixed draw was added to Moat Jump and it has stood the test of time (it's still there)thus my guess is if a chain draw was added to this route it would stay.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Benjamin. It didn't make it more difficult, just more fun and interesting.
|
Location: Geir : Main album : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo!
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Death Drives a Stick (5.13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I learned today the name of the route was inspired by an episode of The Simpsons.
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Love Shack area : Love Handles (5.9+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route and cool holds that will certainly get better as it cleans up. I added lowering biners to the chains. Hope that's cool, Karl.
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall area : Udder Limits (5.11c)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really like this route. Fun stuff. The moves remind me of True Grit but on much better rock. Not straight forward, tricky and harder than it looks from the ground. Cool, exposed position up high.
|
Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Against All Cobbs (5.12c)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I put in an anchor for this route yesterday, 5/11/2012. It's down and to the left of Crack Attack a few feet where there are a couple of good cobbles for the anchor bolts and keeps the anchor over the route. If you feel you're getting cheated a couple moves by using the new anchor, by all means keep on going to Crack Attack's anchor still. The separate anchor will definitely be nice on those busy weekend days.
I also put an belay anchor bolt in the huge cobble buried in the ground at the ba... more >>
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Terry, please see my reply to your comment(s) on the Unrelenting Nines main page.
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have been out of climbing for nearly twenty years and now am back. When I saw the chopped disaster at the top I wondered "Why?". The exit is a ledge not a "blank face". Slings work. This area was considered too short for "real" leads hence the top-rope designation. I understand that rock gym leads are short( I climb there too) and most truly difficult leads are not sustained. This does not give licencse to those that follow the FA's to modify the climb to there personal ... more >>
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice one, Chris. Thanks.
|
Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Margalef : Raco de les Espadelles
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding "Getting There", the "good dirt road" by the colorful dumpsters that you turn left on, is now paved with concrete. It's hard to tell because the red/brown soil has dye the concrete such that is looks like dirt.
|
Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: texasclimber22, the Stone Age Gym posted on Facebook this week:
Stone Age Climbing Gym wrote: We just got word that Last Chance will NOT open on April 6th as promised. No word on the new date.
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you David. Since I'm not in the firmly anti-fixed draws camp, I have little else to say on this topic. If the fixed draw gets moved back to the second bolt, I'm not going to move it again and I'll work around it, stick it or rodeo clip it.
I'm not policing the area and my opinion holds the same value as anyone else's. I spoke, in person, this morning to the climber that installed it. I have no qualms about his intent--it's purely good-natured.
To address the topic of why some fixed dra... more >>
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: David, I find I often, well, sometimes, I appreciate the points you make on this site but really dislike the condescending and insulting tone you frequently employ. This can be a good, productive discussion without condescension. Locals can, and do, successfully put a rope through a hanging draw. I certainly know how to do it so I don't need to search this site.
If safety concerns are the primary concern, I contend it is 100% safer to stick clip the bolt before starting up rather than having a ... more >>
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks J. There was quite a bit of snow surrounding the walls and the reflected light really brightened up a normally dark area.
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whoah nelly! Good stuff y'all. As I said, fixed draws don't bother me greatly and make sense when they facilitate cleaning or the clip is super difficult. Neither of which are the case for bolt 2 on Moat Jump. It's an easy clean and there's a wrap-around handle-bar jug just left of the bolt.
Sahalie's "all or nothing" suggestion isn't practical either, IMO. If that were the case there'd be chains/draws all over crags if the crag had one route that was difficult to clean and really benefited fro... more >>
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We discovered a "fixed" draw (nylon draw with screw link attachment) on the second bolt of this route recently. Because it's very common practice for most to stick clip the second bolt, and the fixed draw hindered that, we moved this fixed draw down to the first bolt.
Fixed draws don't bother me a great deal but I suspect it won't last on the route for long because the route's easy to clean, sees a lot of traffic and one of the still-active members of the FA party isn't a big fan of fixed draw... more >>
|
Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Alice in Banana Land (5.10-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt anchor at the top of this route really needs another set of screw links or rap rings on the existing screw links. Currently they lay flat (parallel) to the rock so pulling your rope through them results in nasty coiling of the rope.
|
Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Psycho-Path (5.9+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route on Psycho Tower is super fun. Never scary nor difficult but with some wild exposure and great summit. Extremely well-protected too. One doesn't need much of a rack other than ~10 slings/draws. We only used two pieces of gear on the entire route (on pitch 2); a red C3 and a #2 Camalot.
Psycho Tower makes for a great introduction to desert tower climbing.
|
Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Psycho-Path (5.9+) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I presume this is Nameless Face that is commonly known as a separate route or alternate start to Psycho-Path?
|
RSS Feed
