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Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a gr...


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
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Total Points: 9,126
Last Year: 1,564
Last 30 Days: 106
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 5063 | Routes 337 | Areas 56 | Photos 869 | Page Improvements | Comments 571 | Posts 396 | Stars 1650 | Ratings 1184
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Eternal Sunshine (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: The crimp is a full pad and really positive. The new move from the crimp is a tad more reachy because it's a downward pull instead of a side pull that allowed shorter climbers to get their hip into the wall to drive for the clipping jug by the second chain. Still a great route.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Eternal Sunshine (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: The glue-reinforced/glued-on right-hand sidepull between the first and second fixed chain draws has broken off and sits near the base of the route. Thankfully there's a good crimp in the vicinity and the difficulty hasn't changed much.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : Death Grip (5.12d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: I could see a belay/rope management bolt being quite useful. It is hard to figure a great place to put where the belayer would still be out of the water. That's a challenge with the first bolt on all the routes on this wall...keeping it up and away from the water enough so as to not have the belayer standing in the drink. Also, because of the way the climber comes out of the cave and would cross over/under a new first bolt, the placement is another challenge.

Ironically, while just recently wor... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : The Hinterlands : The Viking (5.10+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Aaron, as of this weekend it's still there (you can see it in this photo from Saturday) We had hoped to climb it and get it for you but ran out of time.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: I had all but given up on updating the PDF guide for this area but after seeing it in the hands of a number of different groups up at the crag this year, I updated it again this month.

The November 2014 update of the PDF guide includes seven new routes and a mention of the new El Norte area (but not any of the routes since I haven't climbed any of them.)


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Post Moderate (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: I climbed the route today, 11/21/2014, with hardware to replace the top anchors but found them to still be in fine, safe condition so I didn't do any work. They're Raumer springer stainless steel shuts worn about 1/3 of the way through. FWIW,we were not worried at all about using the hardware.
Considering most folks rappel off the hardware, these are wearing very slowly. With the static weight of a rappeling climber, th... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Tombstone : West Face Direct (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: The moves right above the rusty 1/4" bolts at the start are the most difficult on the entire route. Thankfully a there's a decent nut placement just left of the bolts.
We did the route in one single pitch with a 70m rope and diligent rope management. We suspect it could be done in one pitch with a 60m rope just belaying a bit below the top of the formation. The chimney near the top is really fun and, despite being short, some of the best 5.8 climbing I've done in the Sandias.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Fifth pitch, 450 feet off the ground!.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Fatigue (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the clarification on the quickdraw numbers. I've modified the Protection information accordingly. it's also good to know that with a 70m rope you can lower down to the anchors at the top of Cyclic Loader.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the input fellas. A re-org of the area is on my list. Any others out there have an opinion on the re-org of The Grotto area?


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : The Other Woman (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: I feel this is the best line of the newer 9s and 10s at the Love Shack. Cool features, steep climbing on big jugs and an airy finish. Thanks for the work to establish it and removing all the poo.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side) : ... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: That line was just a little too hard for most people and needed a small crimp right there.

Seriously, though, it's a tan bolt hanger spun upwards a bit and not a bolted-on climbing hold.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side) : Tweak Fuck (5.14a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: I've sent a message to Ben Hanna, this route's contributor, requesting information for Description, Location and Protection.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: I like the idea of a reorganization of the areas to make it more clear. The organization of the Grotto here has always confused me and even after many years of climbing there, I'm still confused by it. :-)
Grotto Left (East) and Grotto Right (West) would be clean. Any thoughts on sub-areas in within these two areas or is that too much and not really needed?


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : The Worrier or the Warrior (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Good to know, Alex, thanks. We're likely to be there again this weekend and I'll take a peek. I'm making it a point to climb this route each time I'm there to help clean it up a bit more. I don't think it's dangerous in any way, just new and flaky which might be a bit too much for those unaccustomed to how new routes on this rock climb.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 9, 2014

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Comments: No problem. I've changed the caption and moved the photo to the Sandias area instead.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: In addition to the route George describes between Chronostasis and Crestone Puddin', Walt established another new line between Imitation Strawberry and Goiter Grabber called Bloody Turnip (5.10+). Fun line with a distinct crux at the bulge.

The shorty in the small bowl left of the Black Cave is unnamed as of yet but goes at 5.5 or 5.6 and is super fun! It's like navigating a maze of huge, solid plank-like cobbles protruding from the wall. Also, left of this route in the bowl area is a short, sharp are... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : Take That Space Coyote (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: Good news, the seeping holds at the start were temporary, just lasting a couple weeks after the heavy rains in August. It's all dry at the start now.
The wrap-around handlebar hold at the second-to-last bolt is one of the cooler holds in the Jemez.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Bag of Sand (5.11c/d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: Hey skelldify, my wife, at 5'5" with a -1 AI has beta for it that works. Problem is, we climb the route only a few times a year and have to relearn the beta each time. I tend to think it's a bit easier for short folks, actually. But 6'1" with a +4.5 AI would be nice too!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the input guys


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: I don't believe this to be Muralla Grande and the Second Coming but can't identify the formation. Anyone?


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Retirement Wall : The Stroke (5.11-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: I think this was originally rated 5.12b as the FA party stayed on the face for the crux. But if one moves left to the arete at the crux (which felt natural to me), it climbs at 5.11-.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal ...
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: A reminder to all climbers, the Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) is closed to all activities including climbing. This is a sensitive, tenuous situation and climbing in the cave reflects very poorly on the climbing community. The cave is obviously closed with signage and physical barriers in place so there's no excuse for continuing to climb here. Please do the climbing community a favor and avoid this cave.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : Duck and Cover (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: Mighty fun line. Not your typical sport route with a good bit of finger crack climbing. In that vein, 5.10 leaders may desire a finger-sized piece between the third and fourth bolt.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: I saw the news reports off the toppling and noticed most of the stories using this photo as the "before" shot. Sad news but a fine reminder that geologic time includes now.


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