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Member Since: Oct 2, 2005
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Jason Haas
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Total Points: 1,442
Last Year: 52
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1186 | Routes 58 | Areas 7 | Photos 95 | Page Improvements | Comments 282 | Posts 293 | Stars 278 | Ratings 173
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Electra Glide : Bloody Monday (5.10+)
By: Jason Haas When: 1 day ago

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Comments: As the description says, the original rusted 3/8" stud bolt with rusted, thin SMC hanger has been replaced. The threads were stripped on the stud and the nut glued, but the whole bolt spun with the nut itself when trying to loosen the nut, which prevented being able to remove the nut as well as the bolt itself and thus preventing reusing the same hole. The new bolt location is a little closer to the arete, which makes it actually a touch easier to clip on the lead. Anyway, thanks to the Boulder ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Road Rock : The Hand (5.10b)
By: Jason Haas When: 6 days ago

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Comments: We broke a pretty big hold at the crux today; might be 10b again.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Goofy Spire : Goofy (5.8 PG13)
By: Jason Haas When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: I free soloed this line in 2005, but I'm sure it had been done decades before that.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Ship's Prow
By: Jason Haas When: Aug 5, 2015

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Comments: Half Day's Work, just left of Stromboli, went free by Tony Bubb and myself last weekend. The grade was easy enough that if anyone had repeated the route, they most likely would have done it free. However, Bernard Gillet, Richard Rossiter, Dumais, and even the park rangers have never heard of or seen anyone on the route, and all hold we did an FFA. The original pins (some less than a quarter driven) were still on route and help mark the way. A rack to #3 Camalot is sufficient, and the photo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Right Crack or Last Crack (... (5.10b)
By: Jason Haas When: Jul 29, 2015

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Comments: Rodger is incorrect. Erickson's book is referring to Mirage on The Short Cliff with Three Cracks, below Bitty Buttress. This is Right Crack. It was also called Last Crack on the Right in Boulder Climbs North, but the FA is unknown.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Circadian Rhythms (5.9+)
By: Jason Haas When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Curious where people think the 5.9, let alone 5.9+, part is. The chimney? I found the chimney to be full of features and ledges for feet. It seemed like a typical Vedauwoo 5.7 for this part, and I expected the top to be harder, but instead found it to be quite tame. To clarify, I'm not trying to say anything about the Vedauwoo vs. BoCan grades, just that the Voo has quite a few granite squeeze chimneys to compare it to.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Slow Death (5.11- PG13)
By: Jason Haas When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: FYI, there was only one FP as of last night.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Lost and Found (5.12a/b)
By: Jason Haas When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: J. Albers that's really interesting as it seems you and your partner and me and my partner had opposite interpretations/experiences with it. I'm curious - how do you clip that bolt? For me, I reach up to that flat jug on the arete with my right. I have to then switch hands to clip the bolt but then switch hands back again so that I can grab the small edge with my left and then up again with the right to pinch the arete. It felt like a lot of unnecessary movements compared to how it was or... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : True Comedian (5.12b)
By: Jason Haas When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: The lower boulder is fun but contrived.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Lost and Found (5.12a/b)
By: Jason Haas When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: Thank you to whomever updated the crux sixth bolt. I truly mean that. Bolts need updating, so thank you for taking time away from your own personal climbing to do a community service that benefits everyone. However, if you are not going to reuse the same hole, please climb the route and notice where the newly intended bolt will be and how that effects the rope. The "new" clip is now a lot more awkward, and the subsequent sequence is annoying with the rope running over the holds you want to use. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Last Laugh (5.11a)
By: Jason Haas When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: The bolts and anchor have been replaced. Thanks to the Boulder Climbing Community for supplying the hardware. Consider donating to them if you don't already.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : The Radlands of Infinity (5.12d)
By: Jason Haas When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: I first did this route over 10 years ago and got on it again yesterday. I didn't remember the rock quality coming into question before, but yesterday I was surprised by how many edges flaked off, both for hands and feet. I didn't remember it being friable, but I must have broke a dozen holds yesterday (not that there's much to break on this route). The climbing is still good and hard, but actually after doing it twice yesterday, I'm not convinced more holds won't snap off in the future.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress : Canyon Doors aka Variation ... (5.10b)
By: Jason Haas When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: This start has been lead before now. I did it with Ben Schneider, and I'm sure it's been done before even then. Also P2 is most likely the route called Azimuth, although Dan Hare doesn't fully recall where they went but is pretty positive that's it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress : Smooth Groove (5.7+)
By: Jason Haas When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: First climbed this in 2004 with Jordan Wood. I'm sure it's been done long before that too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress : Scrundle Corner (5.9+)
By: Jason Haas When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: I climbed this in 2008 with Ben Schneider. I doubt we were the first.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head
By: Jason Haas When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: The standard parking lot has been closed. I received this email from one of the rangers down there:

"Wanted to let you know the parking situation at the “Radio Head” area off the Rampart Range road has changed. A gate and fencing was installed this fall to control access to the communication facilities and prevent parking and camping at that location. There is no parking available at this location now. We hope to develop additional parking the south to account for the 5-10 spaces this takes ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Drumstick Direct (5.10+)
By: Jason Haas When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Greg German, Greg Barnes, and I replaced the original anchor on this route with 1/2" stainless steel bolts. The old 3/8" wedge bolts spun out with scary ease. The exact same holes were used. Someone recently added new plated steel chain to the anchor, but we swapped that out for stainless steel rings. If you were the person who put the chain on there and would like it back, please contact me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Red Tide (5.10c R)
By: Jason Haas When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this again tonight - it was a lot chossier than I remember. Don't do it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Jason Haas When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: To add to Tod's response, I will say that there are no signs posted down there (old or new). That doesn't make it OK to be there, just saying it would be easy to mistakenly climb in the affected area without realizing it. I left that closure info out of my book, because the rangers I spoke to numerous times over the years didn't know anything about it, and I couldn't find anything on their website. Hubbel printed a closure note in his Platte guidebook for the area, but he didn't remember where h... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Shiny Face (5.13a)
By: Jason Haas When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: FWIW, according to Scott, he never redpointed the route, although he did bolt it. I redpointed it in August of 2011, which Scott believed was the first "send" of the route. Even so, great job on Scott's part and real "route credit" goes to him.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hillbilly Rock : West Face (5.12c)
By: Jason Haas When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Just glad you got on it, Matt. It took several visits to get those ring bolts out, and I'm just happy to see it wasn't for nothin'.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitc... (5.12a)
By: Jason Haas When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: Joe Crotty, TJ Brumme, and I replaced the bolts on both pitches with 4" stainless steel glue-ins. We were able to reuse several of the same holes, but a few of the other bolts broke while we were trying to extract them, so we had patch and drill a few new holes. Thanks to the BCC for supplying the hardware


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Jello Party (5.12b/c)
By: Jason Haas When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: The missing fixed pin has been replaced.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Captain Hook (5.12a)
By: Jason Haas When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: Someone chopped the last bolt, which doesn't change the safety or anything. The bolt was placed on top of the rock (where your feet stand hands free) and served as a one-bolt anchor. Currently you have to top out and build an anchor on hand-sized cams and then rap the Quivering Quill anchor.


Location: International : North America : Virgin Islands
By: Jason Haas When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: There is a new, comprehensive, color guidebook to the area that also serves as a travel guide: fixedpin.com/British_Virgin_Is...


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