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Member Since: Mar 13, 2005
Last Visit: Oct 1, 2010
Contact Jason Billings


Point Rank: # 1,890
Total Points: 285
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Contributions


All (144) | Routes (9) | Areas (6) | Photos (16) | Comments (25) | Posts | Stars (64) | Ratings (24)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Jam Crack Route (5.6)
By: Jason Billings When: Jul 31, 2006

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Comments: Unless you are looking for more of an alpine experience, I'd take an extra rope an rap at the chains after the first long pitch. It's not that the next two pitches aren't fun, they are just extremely mild, but the rock is excellent. Beware of raspberry bushes.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : The Birds From Hell (5.8)
By: Jason Billings When: Jul 30, 2006

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Comments: Fun climb with three well placed bolts plus chain anchors.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Bloody Knuckles (5.7)
By: Jason Billings When: Jul 30, 2006

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Comments: This route has only two bolts with easy climbing, but runout, between the bolts. If you are uncomfortable with the run out a small nut and a purple DMM TCU will protect in between the bolts. The route is very fun, just very short.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden
By: Jason Billings When: Jul 30, 2006

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Comments: The trail is a little hard to find. Park at N40 45.084 W110 52.603 at the trail is strait accross the road to the North. Great rock, great climbing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Recess Variation (5.9+ R)
By: Jason Billings When: May 17, 2006

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Comments: It gets very thin before you can reach the second bolt and you will reach the trees if you come off.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : Fleeting Glimpse (5.8+)
By: Jason Billings When: Oct 10, 2005

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Comments: I disagree this route is not easier than the Flee Flicker the 5.7 to the left. I thought the start of this was very slick. I would recommend stick clipping the first draw. I found it difficult to get a secure stance from which to clip the first draw. Fall while clipping the first draw and you'll wind upside down on the boulder below. I agree that once you get out of the initial slick stuff climb does become much easier.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Industrial Wall : Loading Dock (5.9+)
By: Jason Billings When: Sep 27, 2005

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Comments: I agree with Andrew that first move is not 5.9. Or maybe it is if you are 6'7" like my partner who was able to do it the right way. I also went left and did the leap of faith. The next move are good up until the runout traverse. The runout isn't bad don't let it scare you.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Adolescent Homosexual (5.7)
By: Jason Billings When: Sep 27, 2005

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Comments: This isn't any harder than 5.7, for sure., but I wouldn't recommend it to a new lead. Although you wouldn't fall far, you would have ledge fall at the crux.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Twist and Crawl (5.8 R)
By: Jason Billings When: Sep 27, 2005

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Comments: We where able to sling shot this with a 70M rope, but just barely. Have a knot in the end of your rope, or better yet, have your belayer tie in.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Theater of Shadows (5.7)
By: Jason Billings When: Sep 27, 2005

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Comments: A single 60M rap puts you in the gully between the thumb and the dome. I 50M rope and your're coming up short. I didn't see any additonal achors on the rap to do the second rap talked abou t in the description.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom West (5.7)
By: Jason Billings When: Sep 27, 2005

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Comments: I agree with everyones comments. This is not an easy 5.7. Other than the off-width second of Crescent this goes down as one of the harder 5.7 climbs around. There are a few trick moves but they protect extremely well.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Chickenhead Holiday (5.6)
By: Jason Billings When: Aug 7, 2005

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Comments: I meant break left.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Chickenhead Holiday (5.6)
By: Jason Billings When: Aug 7, 2005

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Comments: On the second pitch, right after you come out of the crack, over the anchors, and break right there is a hornets nest in a hand size hole. I stuck a yellow friend in there and got them going by mistake, I pulled the came and crused out of there as quick as possilble, but my second was stung. The climbing is easy, so I'd just forgo the pro and climb around it, just don't stick your hand in there..


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Monster (5.9)
By: Jason Billings When: Jul 17, 2005

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Comments: This is a great climb, a not to be missed in the canyon. The crack is consistent offer great jams. Rappel anchors have be added at the bottom of Dihedral, so you can rappel instead of downclimbing the 5.4 scramble approach.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bug Barn Dance Wall : Cambrian Grey (5.10c)
By: Jason Billings When: Jul 17, 2005

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Comments: I felt this climb was very difficult for the rating.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Pebbles and Bambam (5.9)
By: Jason Billings When: Jul 8, 2005

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Comments: Just did this climb yesterday. This is a much bettter 3rd Pitch to Beckey's than the 5.4 crack. With a 70M rope you can run Beckey's all the way up to the tree skipping both of the standard Beckey's belay stations. If you're going to slingshot this route you will need the 70M rope for sure. All though most bolts are spaced around 15ft apart I woulnt' call this route runout. You can also get off this route with a 70M rope in 2 raps. Once from the rings on the tree and once from the firs... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : East Dihedrals (5.6)
By: Jason Billings When: Jun 28, 2005

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Comments: This is a great little climb that can be done in two pitches with a 60M rope. Climb the first pitch past the two ledges to a nice belay ledge that has a piton about 8 feet up at about 2 o'clock. From here most the exciting climbing is done. I moved out on the face, just left of the piton, and continued up. This climb was great as two pitches, I saw no need for an additonal belay.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Pure Pleasure (5.6)
By: Jason Billings When: Jun 27, 2005

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Comments: Skip the traverse and head strait for the crack .


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Good Times (5.6)
By: Jason Billings When: Jun 27, 2005

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Comments: I would skip the traverse and climb strait to the crack. Using the bolt as you first piece. Great warm up climb to get to know the City of Rocks area. This wall has a lot of easier climbs that are fun and well protected.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Raindance (5.7)
By: Jason Billings When: Jun 23, 2005

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Comments: This is a great route and it well protected. Onl the second pitch there are about 4 5.7 friction moves before it goes to 5.5 friction. There is some space between bolts on the 5.5 stuff, but nothing scary.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : War Clamor (5.5)
By: Jason Billings When: May 8, 2005

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Comments: I agree those crazy chains need to be repainted. Looking at them today, I could see they were painted at one time, but the paint must have worn off. I've used them to teach people to change the rope from going through draws to going directly through the chains. I didn't put those chains up, but they do seem good for that purpose. I'll try to remember to bring along spray paint next time I'm in the area.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Hatchet Crack (5.7)
By: Jason Billings When: May 3, 2005

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Comments: Be careful on the scramble over to the beginning. We had a 63M rope that got us back to the bottom with one rappel, but just barely. You could rappel twice, with a shorter rope, by rappelling down to the anchors on top of Primal Scream.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Burning Bits (5.10b)
By: Jason Billings When: Mar 27, 2005

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Comments: Used a red friend and a large nut to protect the initial moves. That first bolt is a ways up there. It's easy climbing climbing to the first bolt, but I had the gear so why not. The crux is right after the second bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Sweet Jane Variation (5.7)
By: Jason Billings When: Mar 13, 2005

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Comments: Easy to set gear on.This was my first trad and first lead (pitch 2). Also a great way to setup a toprope for Cheetah pitch 2 if you want to practice some great friction climbing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Bumble Bee Wall : Mercy Street (5.7+)
By: Jason Billings When: Mar 13, 2005

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Comments: The only problem with this climb is it's too short. Great climbing for a beginnning leader learning to set gear. Used mainly medium sized cams, a couple of smaller hexes, and a couple of large stoppers.