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On Goat Flat


Member Since: Jan 21, 2007
Last Visit: Sep 9, 2014
Contact Jared Spaulding


Point Rank: # 852
Total Points: 751
Last Year: 82
Last 30 Days: 20
11 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jared Spaulding been climbing?










Contributions


All 258 | Routes 23 | Areas 6 | Photos 78 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 13 | Stars 88 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey
By: Jared Spaulding When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Jordan...
In 2007 I climbed there from the end of November through mid December. We had a few spells of poor weather that forced us back to town, but I remember it being good enough to climb a lot.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: If you are here later season, or when the B-S Col is in poor shape, be sure to look for the rappel station near the base that will take you straight down to the glacier below. Two single rope rappels should do it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Surfs Up (5.9)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: It would seem that the picture in the Atkinson/Piche guide is a bit off. It shows a traverse at the top of pitch two. Instead go up and right to the dihedral, then straight up on pitch two to the "flake" belay, a giant slung flake or horn. Then on pitch three's start, move right, back towards the "corner" and up to the "alcove" belay, also with a slung horn.

Overall an excellent route. Route finding challenges can be had on first four pitches, but protection is readily available. Granite ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : "Unnamed 5.11" - OW right o... (5.11)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: The plaque at the base calls this line "the throwdown". Great pitch too.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Blue Sky Mining (5.10+)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this the other day. One of the anchor bolts at the top is a bit loose. A number four Camalot with a long sling could easily back up the anchor if you are inclined.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
By: Jared Spaulding When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: I drove up the approach road today (March 24, 2014) and was able to take a stock pickup truck to within a 15 minute walk of where the trail leaves the wash. At this point the was was blocked with a, what was for me, an impassable boulder. Wasn't too bad, just had to drive slow, but it was still quicker than walking.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Infinity Slab (5.10a R)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: Where would the topo be?


Location: WY : Wind River Range : New Fork Park : China Wall : The Left Handed Compliment (5.10 C1)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Hey all,

Sorry this isn't a timely reply. Folks, it is just climbing. I specifically stated what we did in the route description. I think my posting is accurate in that it states in what style we climbed it. I am aware of the varying interpretations of the aid climbing rating system and that is why I clarified our use. Eggman, the comment "went free by pulling on gear" is in reference to the departed alpinist Bjørn-Eivind Årtun.

It is just climbing. Go have fun, respect the rock and t... more >>


Location: UT : Capitol Reef National Park : Capitol Gorge : Classic Handcrack (5.9+)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: Yes, rappel from a two bolt anchor with chains. I believe that one rope will get you down... a seventy meter definitely will.


Location: UT : Capitol Reef National Park : Capital Gorge Boulders
By: Jared Spaulding When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: This area should probably be under the Capitol Gorge area as opposed to its own area.


Location: UT : Capitol Reef National Park
By: Jared Spaulding When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: George

Cathedral Valley is indeed spectacular. Unfortunately it is off limits to climbing. From the close non-climbing inspection I have done of it is indeed similar to the Fisher Towers. Folks may have climbed on it prior to its closure (I am unsure of when it was officially closed). There are very similar towers further east (and out of the Park) along the northern edge of the Moroni Slopes and near Salt Wash mountainproject.com/v/the-muds...


Location: UT : Capitol Reef National Park : The Borderlands
By: Jared Spaulding When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: The park boundary here seems to be marked with a fence. There is a gate in the fence down low. Higher toward the wingate the fence is in poorer condition, but it can serve as a good indicator of where to bolt and where not to bolt.


Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : Split Rock : Standard Route (5.5)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: No bolt anchors on the "Standard Route"


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Moroni : Crack in the Cosmic Egg (5.10 C2+)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Mar 21, 2013

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Comments: Rappel/anchor bolts are bomber up through the top of pitch six on the Original Variation. Top of pitch seven is one drilled angle and one star drive with Leeper hanger. The protection bolts were all bomber star drives with Leeper hangers.


Location: UT : Capitol Reef National Park : Capitol Gorge : Capitol Gorgeous (5.10)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: Hey Bob, thanks for the information on this and a bunch of the other CRNP routes. And thanks for the routes...


Location: UT : Capitol Reef National Park : Capitol Gorge : Unnamed 5.12 (5.12)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Aug 14, 2012

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Comments: Hey, are there other routes with bolts at the top in the vicinity? From your brief and vague description it sounds like this may be Birth Canal, which I would also describe as: Climb squeeze to fingers that change corners, then up through pods to a two bolt anchor. Does this sound right?

Most of the routes in the gorge have names so I want to help out and get the name with the route.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : North Face (5.6)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: A quicker, alternative descent is to descend the north gully and wind up just 20 yards east of your packs at the base of the North Face route. This is downclimbable but there is a rap station at the hardest part (5.2) near the base.


Location: UT : Capitol Reef National Park : The Observatory : SETI (5.10)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: Good route, with a variety of climbing. I needed either to belay from the top or bring about 40' of webbing to extend the anchor over the lip in order to create a workable (rope drag free) top rope.


Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : Lankin Dome : Venus and Mars (5.9)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Feb 17, 2012

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Comments: I did this several years ago and there was only a single bolt at the first belay. Has someone added a second bolt?


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers : Princess Bong (5.9 A1)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Nov 24, 2011

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Comments: Anyone know who owns the red line that is fixed on this route or why it is there? It has been there since spring.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Charlie Fowler and Jeff Lowe, 1979


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Cayenne corners (5.10d)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: It seems that the usually sound beta garnered from the Handren guidebook was not so sound this time around. If you want to hear a significantly more accurate description, read on. If not, well, we made it up the route with the Handren description, so you probably could too.

P.1 (165' 5.9ish) Climb a left facing corner in varnished rock, passing a bolt at the base of the corner. Continue up corner and crack, eventually stepping left to a two bolt anchor in white rock.

P.2 (180' 5.10+) Step b... more >>


Location: UT : Capitol Reef National Park : Grand Wash Area : Capitol Flake (5.10)
By: Jared Spaulding When: Oct 20, 2011

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Comments: Thanks Tyson. I'll update the route name. Hope you enjoyed the climbing in the park. The tips crack to the right is a 5.7 eh? Seemed harder to me.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers
By: Jared Spaulding When: May 3, 2011

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Comments: I was wondering if anyone knew who is putting up the bolted face climbs on these towers? It seems like it is all pretty new. Brigham Butte, Prairie Dog, and a couple others all have new bolted routes on them.


Location: UT : Capitol Reef National Park : Terrible Twos Wall
By: Jared Spaulding When: Mar 29, 2011

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Comments: This area should probably be moved to under the Grand Wash heading...


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