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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder : Circus Trick (V4)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lisa Rands had the FFA on this sandbagged "V4"
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Area 51 : Goatee Traverse (V2)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I broke a hold on this in 2008...one of the many jugs.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : The Gem (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, aside from the fact that the anchor placement sucks.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Redlined (5.11b/c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA and bolted by Mark VanHorn.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Little Boys With Power Toys (5.10a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route's name is Little Boys with Little Toys.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Bachar Up Against The Wall... (5.11a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or "Back Her Up Against the Wall and Caulk Her"...I believe this was the name of the route.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Heavy Weather (5.12a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I onsighted both about 15 years ago and would say that Heavy Weather is slightly harder. Both have an obvious reachy crux, but Heavy weather is more sequential and does not have the rest that Pay Homage has. But then again, I also onsighted McFly .12d and Suedehead .12d at Shelf Road and think McFly was a little harder, due to it not being "my style".
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Land Beyond : American Psycho (5.12d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely does not climb like a typical ET route. But, instead like a tall boulder problem. It is still one of my favorite routes on this wall and worth doing.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : (01) South and Southwest (R... : Shipwrecked (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aesthetically speaking, this route is excellent. I think it would get a perfect rating on any scale, if it did not back off after the monos and up the flake before hitting the endurance crux. It stands as one of my favorite onsights. I did American Psycho OS the same day, and was nowhere near as psyched. The only thing to top Shipwrecked, is Goliath...for a similar grade.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : White Queen (5.13b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am six feet tall and have done the crux going right hand over the lip and left hand. What I did feel more comfortable when going with my right hand was using my pointer and middle finger to hit the pocket versus middle and ring finger.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : Through the Looking Glass (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has an awesome sequence through killer pockets and edges. Though it is not a long route, it has definite appeal within movement.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Only Entertainment (5.13b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Red Tape, Lee....
Yee Apolojieskie!!!
Thanks for the comments.
How many tags have you seen in Rifle or anywhere else? Anyway, there had been no development, for years. I believe you and I were there on a trip working on Debaser and saw more than a fair share. If someone can't climb a route in a reasonable time, they should open it up to others.
Let bygones be what they are.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Only Entertainment (5.13b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cheers Stew:)
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Only Entertainment (5.13b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You surmise correctly, aside from the fact that Mike threw a fit at the Greens, because a young "punk", sent the route easily. A route that he had projected and fixed with hardware. Once again ethics issues...which occur all over, especially in the U.S. Both Mike Johnson and Ian Spencer-Green are nice cats. There are no more adolescent fences to side over...these are the early nineties, when everyone was a douche, and Rifle never sported more than .14a or two because of a few over and under-zeal... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Bouldering : The Snake Pit Area : ... : Unknown V7 aka Slapper (V7-8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first ascent of this line was by Dave Shearer and Preston Hopfensprenger in 1992 or 1993. To the best of my knowledge it was never given a name.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Jewel Thief (V10)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jared Lavacque sent the route late February 2009.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Side Pulls (V3)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the sit-start(starting from the lowest possible holds) is V3+, with the crouch/stand start being V3-
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Location: CO : Canon City : Table Mountain South
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once again...knowing nothing but a feather in his cap and taking Geology 1001 at UCCS, Anonymous Coward spouts downward conversation sparked by the diametrically inspired oscar-the-grouch intellect (never knowing, nor inspiring his 100+ attempts at area "hard-man" routes) all over CO.(and then appending his unintelligible loci throughout most of Harvey Carter's lamest routes). Have fun jewel thief of the lowest demeanor. Anonymous Coward licks stones and has artificially manufactured (Use Your I... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Gate's Pass : One Move Wonder (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So...this is a one move wonder. However, being that polished is the name of the game for this problem, there are one move wonders in Rifle, CO.(that are more appealing than this polished bunch of garbage)
Instead of this, give these a try in the local area:
P.S. if you start Broken Rubber on the lower right side, on the lowest obvious holds, above the rocks that would hurt your bum if you fell, and continued up left to the left hand under-cling block pinch, then right hand dish...and then fini... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Silverbell Boulders : Javelina Cave and the A Fra... : Pocket Stuffer (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or, to eliminate a move: start on right hand edge, left hand gaston, right hand to small pinch crimp rail, left to 1/4 inch purchase crimp and fire to the lip.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : The Dark Arts (5.13d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start without the glued feature is V9/10 and V7ish with it. I remember when(Ian) had it on his mantle, when it fell off initially :)Brett Green and I dug the route in each state....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would like to try the Spray/Rapture link-up. Both routes are great.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Pinch Overhang (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Last time I checked, this problem was a V6.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge : Chick Power (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A hold has broken, and it is probably V8...and if I am not mistaken, Ric Geiman had the FA on this.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock : Damage I Have Done (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Correction:
This route was first bouldered by myself and Ian Spencer-Green after Mark, Eric and Ed developed the area...circa mid (1996/7) 1990s.
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