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Chick Floater


Member Since: Dec 22, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Jared LaVacque


Point Rank: # 71
Total Points: 4,948
Last Year: 230
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jared LaVacque been climbing?










Contributions


All 1455 | Routes 91 | Areas 33 | Photos 681 | Page Improvements | Comments 138 | Posts 6 | Stars 368 | Ratings 138
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bang's Canyon : She Bangs (5.11+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Unless I missed some holds checking it out and cleaning off holds, this is quite a bit harder than .11+. Up until the crux, it is nice and juggy, and a little dynamic. However, once you make a long reach to clip a bolt off of a left-hand jug/sidepull and grab a right hand sidepull, from there there is nothing but a two-finger, crimp pocket for the left and a few small crimps up and right, before the route backs off, before you finish the crux and the game is over.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Area 51 : ... : All Hail Hibernation (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: This problem is height-dependent, while shorter folks will have an easier time down low. If you are taller, you will feel bunched up at the start due to the high feet and getting to the crimp and side-pull will be the crux (and avoiding the barn door). While dynoing or dead-pointing from the gaston will not be an issue.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Dynamite Shacks : Joe 97 : The Kompressor (V6-7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: You are welcome, Brad. I am back in Junction for a few months, from Alaska, so I will be adding more.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Independence Mine Boulderin... : Phantasia Boulders : Rock Biter (V8-)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Its a different climbing style than Muffin Man or Thunderfluff. Neither of those problems is crimpy, that being said, it's hard to even compare these problems, plus Rock Biter is a 7+ and the other two are solid 8s.


Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Capt. Cook State Recreation...
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: akclimber.com/2013/07/captain-...


See the URL above for information about bouldering with great pics and write-up by Dave Funatake.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Service Boulder, Anchorage,...
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: akclimber.com/2012/06/service-...


A nice clip of some of the bouldering featured at The Service Boulder. Climber is Todd Helgeson.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Bouldering... : Archangel Bouldering : ... : Horse Lords (V1)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Boulders in the second large boulder field left of the diamond.Head down the path from the metal fire ring to the creek. Cross the creek on boulders, head left into the boulder field, look for the tall steep arete. Many potential problems starting at the crossing, along the creek, and up over the ridge in the bowl. Lots of stuff has been cleaned, some of it has been climbed or are projects.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Bouldering... : Archangel Bouldering : ... : Shieldmaiden (V0)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Boulders in the second large boulder field left of the diamond.Head down the path from the metal fire ring to the creek. Cross the creek on boulders, head left into the boulder field, look for the tall steep arete. Many potential problems starting at the crossing, along the creek, and up over the ridge in the bowl. Lots of stuff has been cleaned, some of it has been climbed or are projects.


Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Anchor Point, Alaska
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: Access is sensitive. DO NOT circumvent the river crossing to make access easier. The owner has released his dogs to shake up people who walk bordering their property next to the river. Just bushwack and wade across.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Holy Cross Boulders (aka Ar...
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Brad and Max, PM me or LDY to get directions to the V11 project and Wormhole/Holy Cross V10.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : East Creek Day Use Area : Rockshop Traverse (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: When featured in Rock and Ice years ago in an article by Luke Laeser and Ed Strang, this was rated V7. It actually starts left to right, as far left as possible butt dragging, at the top of a small dirt dune. The first moves are the hardest with smaller holds. If these are cut off and started farther left, the grade becomes easier. Then, their is a V3ish move transitioning from a higher traverse, to a lower section, then a pumpy transition V3-V4 before hitting the roof...then just hold on until ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park : ... : Route 5 (V8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: Not V10, much easier, probably V8. Climbs well, like a hip-hop purist, versus climbing like those who like ring-tone rap.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Holy Cross Boulders (aka Ar...
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: Though a lot of this rock is friable, LDY established a really solid (for the grade and rock quality), though hard to find, V10 called The Wormhole and a project that I came close to sending last time back in town that is approximately V11/12 (solid in both aspects as well). There are a few other easier problems that are great as well. Caleb is right, though, there are a lot of friable holds on the majority of the boulders.

  • *I have GPS coordinates to these if anyone would like the locations of...
 more >>


Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Skilak Lake
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 16, 2012

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Comments: There is no other information on Skilak. Ben Schmidt, who put up 7 Felonies, might have bolted other routes, but they are not posted. It is not in The Alaska Rock Climbing Guide. I would recommend a small boat to explore Skilak, as it is a very large lake. I would also recommend going to Anchor Point and bouldering. It is about 70 miles from Soldotna. It is a single tall glacial erratic boulder by a river.
mountainproject.com/v/anchor-p...

You might also contact Ben... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill East : An Indifference to Ascensio... (V6) : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 6, 2011

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Comments: My right hand is on the 2nd hold, after the starting match.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Late Bloomer Boulder Area : ... : Surgical Procedure (V6-7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 4, 2011

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Comments: Sorry, Caleb...misinterpreted your comment. Next time I'm back home, we should boulder:) You, me, and others have all spent time putting up some great lines in Junction. I think, that we both assume I got the 2nd of Peregrinus and Corner Cafe too...both great lines. Cheers!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Dynamite Shacks : Main Area : Long Traverse (V1+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: If you actually drop down from the final seam jug, to an undercling (with the right, on the underbelly, and then drop left hand to the side-pull crimp)...a really nice transition, then start the overhang/prow with the lowest matching shelf jug, and continue with the jug pocket with the right and up the prow with the left and finish with an easy dyno/static move, then the rating is about V3...hence my rating on the "ticks". If not, it about V2-, in my opinion. It's a bit descript, but it seemed t... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Wolcott Crags and Boulders : Big Ass Boulder : V5-6 (V5-6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 24, 2011

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Comments: Just as clarification, the problem Remo is on is the West Face. The picture is used for route proximity location.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge : Chick Power (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 20, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for the description, Nathan. I hadn't sent Chick Power since the early 2000-2002-ish time frame after Ric took me to Ute for the first time. The next time I went back, after moving from CO, was 2008, and I just remembered the match hold being a little more positive. Nice video btw.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill East : This is Something Else (V3)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 16, 2011

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Comments: Let me clarify this. SDS with your bum on the ground, right hand on the crimp, left on the sloper. Right foot on the right roof-lip, left on the left side roof-lip, move left hand to the positive sloper, bump right hand to the side-pull, set feet and fire to the lip, or intermediate left hand on the arete.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill East : Sideshow (V6+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 16, 2011

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Comments: Nice moves, beginning high feet. Might be more difficult for taller boulderers.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill East : Stairway (V1+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 16, 2011

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Comments: Start on jug, set feet high, ignore drawing/CH and move high right hand to gaston, follow left hand into undercling/pinch, and then campus the rest.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill East : Pull Around This (V3)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 16, 2011

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Comments: Following the drawing is misleading as it suggests the right side of the arete is off, which it is not. The route Petoria, is a bit more accurate.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill East : Iffy If (V3)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 16, 2011

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Comments: If you actually follow the drawing, you start on the jug, gaston a pocket, and the bump high and left to a nice sidepull jug, then lunge to the crimp/sloper or intermediate off of a triangle pinch and static the crimp/sloper.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill East : Chipped Paradise (V0)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 16, 2011

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Comments: The sit start avoiding the jugs and using the crimps makes the line.


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