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Chick Floater


Member Since: Dec 22, 2008
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Jared LaVacque


Point Rank: # 68
Total Points: 4,906
Last Year: 678
Last 30 Days: 0
19 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jared LaVacque been climbing?










Contributions


All 1394 | Routes 91 | Areas 33 | Photos 675 | Page Improvments | Comments 126 | Posts 4 | Stars 342 | Ratings 123
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Dynamite Shacks : Main Area : The Kompressor (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: Most definitely height-dependent but harder than other V5/6s in the area, including both Vodka problems. This is probably V6+/7-, but I left it at 7-8, for more consensus.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Late Bloomer Boulder Area : Francesca (V5-6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: I broke the 2 parts off of the left hand start hold today. The hold has much less bite now and solidifies the grade.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Late Bloomer Boulder Area : Surgical Procedure (V6-7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Ummm. Thanks, Loren :) Holds have broke since my last ascent. I broke a hold today as well. I have updated the grade and kept it conservative. Still an excellent problem as are most on this boulder.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Skull Fuck (5.13c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: The fifth bolt is hanging out about 1/4 inch behind the hanger. Someone has attached the link to the chain, so nobody will be tempted to use it. As the description says, make sure you inspect the bolts on this line. A few of them are due for replacement.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Chinese Algebra Area : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Slabalicious is in red, The Mistress Boulder is in black.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : East Creek Day Use Area : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: The start holds have small ticks in the pictures. Start on a crimp and the edge at the start of the long shelf with feet in a huge hueco.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bang's Canyon : Pumping Jesus (5.12d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: This route is by no means two stars. The business starts after the second bolt (or third, if you clip the 1st bolt as a directional on Baby Bang), after the rest, and continues until you clip the chains. It maintains being thuggy and bouldery from then on. This route is an awesome, power endurance boulder problem. The route is about 50 feet long and will barely work with a 30m rope.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : East Creek Day Use Area : Rockshop Traverse (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: I have posted a new pic of where the route starts. For clarification, there are definitely moves harder than V2, as you will realize as you climb it. Ultimately there are 3 technical cruxes, that come in the first 70 feet. The cruxes are as follows:

1) Eight feet from the start, which is on two half pad edges, then moves into a nice long horizontal shelf....then the business begins. Get your left hand over as far as possible, make a reach over to an arching crimp/sidepull, adjust your feet, mak... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : East Creek Day Use Area : Rockshop Traverse (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: It definitely makes a difference if you start in the wrong place. Over the years, since this first appeared in R&I in the '90s, the start has become a little less obvious. The start is actually one of the three crux moves, as you have to drop from high to low in an off balance move. The next two cruxes come approximately 18 feet later and then about six feet before hitting the roof area.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Chinese Algebra Area : ... : Goodbye Blue Monday (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Thanks again, Nick, for showing us the new stuff on the south side! The rock quality here is definitely amazing.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Ouray Rotary Park-Rink Wall : Seduction of Gravity (5.10c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: BEWARE, the buckets pillar that is around the third bolt, has fractured due to freeze and thaw, and is now VERY hollow and will fall off soon. Avoid the route until it is cleaned. The blocks weigh approximately 100 pounds each.

Just look to the right, where in between routes, 2 tons of rocks fell and knocked a tree down.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Chickaloon Boulders : Boulder 3 and 4 : Thunder FLuff (V8-9)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: I didn't know the heel cam until last year. When I first did it, Tom and I didn't use it.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Area 51 : ... : All Hail Hibernation (V4+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: You're welcome, Nick. I hope to see you out sometime. And as an aside, as an administrator, thanks for the accuracy and compendious descriptions to MP. It makes our job providing accurate information easier.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bang's Canyon : She Bangs (5.11+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Unless I missed some holds checking it out and cleaning off holds, this is quite a bit harder than .11+. Up until the crux, it is nice and juggy, and a little dynamic. However, once you make a long reach to clip a bolt off of a left-hand jug/sidepull and grab a right hand sidepull, from there there is nothing but a two-finger, crimp pocket for the left and a few small crimps up and right, before the route backs off, before you finish the crux and the game is over.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Area 51 : ... : All Hail Hibernation (V4+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: This problem is height-dependent, while shorter folks will have an easier time down low. If you are taller, you will feel bunched up at the start due to the high feet and getting to the crimp and side-pull will be the crux (and avoiding the barn door). While dynoing or dead-pointing from the gaston will not be an issue.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Dynamite Shacks : Main Area : The Kompressor (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: You are welcome, Brad. I am back in Junction for a few months, from Alaska, so I will be adding more.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Independence Mine Boulderin... : Phantasia Boulders : Rock Biter (V8-)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Its a different climbing style than Muffin Man or Thunderfluff. Neither of those problems is crimpy, that being said, it's hard to even compare these problems, plus Rock Biter is a 7+ and the other two are solid 8s.


Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Capt. Cook State Recreation...
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: www.akclimber.com/2013/07/captain-cook-state-recreational-ar>>>


See the URL above for information about bouldering with great pics and write-up by Dave Funatake.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Service Boulder, Anchorage,...
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: www.akclimber.com/2012/06/service-boulder/


A nice clip of some of the bouldering featured at The Service Boulder. Climber is Todd Helgeson.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Bouldering... : Archangel Bouldering : ... : Horse Lords (V1)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Boulders in the second large boulder field left of the diamond.Head down the path from the metal fire ring to the creek. Cross the creek on boulders, head left into the boulder field, look for the tall steep arete. Many potential problems starting at the crossing, along the creek, and up over the ridge in the bowl. Lots of stuff has been cleaned, some of it has been climbed or are projects.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Bouldering... : Archangel Bouldering : ... : Shieldmaiden (V0)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Boulders in the second large boulder field left of the diamond.Head down the path from the metal fire ring to the creek. Cross the creek on boulders, head left into the boulder field, look for the tall steep arete. Many potential problems starting at the crossing, along the creek, and up over the ridge in the bowl. Lots of stuff has been cleaned, some of it has been climbed or are projects.


Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Anchor Point, Alaska
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: Access is sensitive. DO NOT circumvent the river crossing to make access easier. The owner has released his dogs to shake up people who walk bordering their property next to the river. Just bushwack and wade across.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Holy Cross Boulders (aka Ar...
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Brad and Max, PM me or LDY to get directions to the V11 project and Wormhole/Holy Cross V10.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : East Creek Day Use Area : Rockshop Traverse (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: When featured in Rock and Ice years ago in an article by Luke Laeser and Ed Strang, this was rated V7. It actually starts left to right, as far left as possible butt dragging, at the top of a small dirt dune. The first moves are the hardest with smaller holds. If these are cut off and started farther left, the grade becomes easier. Then, their is a V3ish move transitioning from a higher traverse, to a lower section, then a pumpy transition V3-V4 before hitting the roof...then just hold on until ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park : ... : Route 5 (V8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: Not V10, much easier, probably V8. Climbs well, like a hip-hop purist, versus climbing like those who like ring-tone rap.


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