Contributed Comments |
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Silverbell Boulders : Lower Boulders : Westface Arete Sit (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not an FA...The Silverbells have been an outdoor gym for years. I am not claiming an FA and did this in 2005.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Crystal Cave : The Glue Fairy (Under The G... (5.13)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name is actually "Under the Gun", after a Sisters of Mercy song.
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Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Juneau : Mendenhall Towers : Solva Buttress (5.8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Description!
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Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Juneau : Mendenhall Towers : Solva Buttress (5.8) : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Picture Jared!
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Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Horse Cave : Back in the Saddle (V6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably a stiff 6 or a 7- without the heel/toe cam in the hueco, by sticking to the small edges for feet and just going straight from left in the hueco and right hand on the sloping edge. Makes the route feel more pure and sustained.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Machine Head (5.11c/d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 2nd bolt and most of the SMC hangers spin, which makes stick clipping difficult. The glue in bolts are solid. A really fun route in general.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park : ... : Route 5 (V8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This actually does not use a (real) pocket. Start with left hand on sloping edge, with or without thumb-catch, and right on sloper/block. Fire up right hand to sloping two-finger sloper/pocket? (or intermediate to one of two small pockets, before the sloper/pocket). Then definitely use the small pocket/sloper with thumb catch. Move left hand to flat jug-edge and then set your feet and throw to the side-pull in the middle of the face and then fire for the lip and Texas mantle. See picture.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill Central : Peregrinus (V8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried a re-send today, as my first of the day. Got shut down going to the lip. A spotter would have egged me on. The tumble is to die for...and it's sandbagged.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Escondido Circle : Mettle Tester (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sandbagged....tried a warm-up repeat today and was shut down.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park : ... : Route 5 (V8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just about on-par with Cytogrinder as a V8. Powerful moves with a nice Texas Mantle exit.
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Location: AK : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Pic Tom!
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Location: Monomaniac : The Lazy H Climbing Gym : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Digs Mark!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill Central : Peregrinus (V8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Sep 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The top was a bit sketchy, even if I had a spotter. But usually when I am back home visiting, I end up bouldering by myself. So, I ended up stacking my smaller Mad Rock to level the ground under my huge MR. Once I stuck the end, I was in no way going to let go, then bounce and tumble:) Nice Line!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill East : Clockwork (V5-6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Sep 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little contrived. Not worth the effort, unless you have already done the main problem.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Escondido Circle : Unknown (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Sep 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: More than a little contrived/compressed.
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Location: General Climbing : What does your Woody look l... : Post : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Tom. Have you been using it?
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill Central : Corner Cafe (V6+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great line and almost a flash. The sequence is fairly straight forward. Two pads(slightly stacked) offset the landing nicely.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill Central : Peregrinus (V8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a nice line, Caleb. Sent in 4 goes!!
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Ghost Dance (V6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have added a pic of the V7 start crimps, for any clarification needed. This is a great problem, any way you look at it.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, but there are 3 cruxes, and the thing is 70 ft long. I have climbed .14 and V13... and would call the route a .12+...if you start as far left as you can, climb down the incline, on the slightly sloping dirt hill, and traverse in.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Late Bloomer Boulder Area : Mono Pocket Rocket (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back it up with epoxy....
It does not remove from the route but is essential to the natural flow of the climb.
I will take care of it in October, when I return to GJ, if it is not done by then.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Escondido Circle : Mettle Tester (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, senor...touche.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Merlins Mantra (5.11a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is in dire need of the directional that it had years ago.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Escondido Circle : Mettle Tester (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route requires considerable core tension and seems a bit "stouter" for its grade than other problems a number grade harder in the GJ area.For example, I flashed Surgical Precision V7, and Mono Pocket Rocket V5 at Unaweep Canyon, a week prior.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill East : V5- (V5-)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: SDS lower-middle right with lowest hueco for left and sloping crimp right and then going straight up to shallow dishes and then left to the jug hueco with the left and then fire to the lip is definitely V5-. Similar finish to Jingus Bells at Hueco Tanks, but not as stiff a grade.
On a new note, the boulder at the base is now on the right side of the landing and out of the way for the "business".
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