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Member Since: Dec 22, 2008
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact Jared LaVacque


Point Rank: # 70
Total Points: 4,946
Last Year: 430
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jared LaVacque been climbing?










Contributions


All 1449 | Routes 91 | Areas 33 | Photos 681 | Page Improvements | Comments 136 | Posts 4 | Stars 367 | Ratings 137
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Skull Fuck (5.13c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: Ok. The 5th bolt is attached to itself, biner to hanger, because it is garbage. Now, I suppose you could clip it, but it is in that position for a reason. The hanger is about 1/4 inch away from the rock because the bolt and sleeve are pulling out. Now, it IS doable, but if you blow the crux sequence, your fall WILL be longer, because you should not be using the bolt. So, I worked it took longer falls and then punched through the crux w/o falling, through two sections, ground through crux, clippe... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Skull Fuck (5.13c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: No, it has not been rebolted. The condition of this route and that bolt in particular are as of the end of November, 2013. The route is doable until replacement, the crux fall will be a little longer, should you blow it.


Location: Jared LaVacque : Microcosm : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: No, it was disassembled in 2007 when I moved to AK.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Texas Boulder Parking Area : ... : The Dakota River Forge (V6-7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Different Version:

Instead of starting on both crimps, start matched only on the left hand crimp. Move up to the first left hand side-pull and then bump to the second left hand side-pull(while your right hand is still on the crimp), move your feet up to patina scabs and lunge to the highest right hand side-pull, set your feet and back step the starting crimp and then lunge to the lip. This version eliminates the compression, avoids the lowest right hand side-pull and softens the grade to V5+/V6... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Palisade : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 24, 2013

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Comments: Geography is awesome.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Springer Gulch Wall : Unknown (5.12b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: The FA on this is Mark VanHorn. I had the 2nd ascent on this and confirmed the grade.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Bouldering : The Blowouts Area : Long Traverse (V6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Since doing this, beginning in the '90s, we always started on the left side of the cave and traversed through the obvious section, before dropping down and left to finish on the tall line that ends in a hueco. See the picture for finish. This line has many contrivations, including a V11 put up by Ian-Spencer Green and Scott Brown, in the late '90s.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Bouldering : The Snake Pit Area : ... : Swiss Cheese (V3+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: There are many eliminates for these problems. I have been climbing on this since the early '90s, and just like the Black Hole in Morrison, there are many ways to contrive. Versions up to V8 from the same start pinches have been done.

An example of a standard V4 is as follows:

Start on both vertical pinches, bump left to smaller pinch sidepull, move right to a gaston, up and right, hit left hand in the cluster of pockets, fire up left to a crimp, right to jug and finish straight on edges or mov... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Bouldering : The Snake Pit Area : ... : Unknown V4 (V4)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: There are many eliminates for these problems. I have been climbing on this since the early '90s, and just like the Black Hole in Morrison, there are many ways to contrive. Versions up to V8 from the same start pinches have been done.

An example of a standard V4 is as follows:

Start on both vertical pinches, bump left to smaller pinch sidepull, move right to a gaston, up and right, hit left hand in the cluster of pockets, fire up left to a crimp, right to jug and finish straight on edges or mov... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Palisade : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: Mount Garfield, from Clifton, actually.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Dynamite Shacks : Main Area : The Kompressor (V6-7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: Most definitely height-dependent but harder than other V5/6s in the area, including both Vodka problems. This is probably V7, given the other routes in the similar grade range.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Late Bloomer Boulder Area : Francesca (V5-6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: I broke the 2 parts off of the left hand start hold today. The hold has much less bite now and solidifies the grade.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Late Bloomer Boulder Area : Surgical Procedure (V6-7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Ummm. Thanks, Loren :) Holds have broke since my last ascent. I broke a hold today as well. I have updated the grade and kept it conservative. Still an excellent problem as are most on this boulder.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Skull Fuck (5.13c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: The fifth bolt is hanging out about 1/4 inch behind the hanger. Someone has attached the link to the chain, so nobody will be tempted to use it. As the description says, make sure you inspect the bolts on this line. A few of them are due for replacement.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Chinese Algebra Area : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Slabalicious is in red, The Mistress Boulder is in black.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : East Creek Day Use Area : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: The start holds have small ticks in the pictures. Start on a crimp and the edge at the start of the long shelf with feet in a huge hueco.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bang's Canyon : Pumping Jesus (5.12d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: This route is by no means two stars. The business starts after the second bolt (or third, if you clip the 1st bolt as a directional on Baby Bang), after the rest, and continues until you clip the chains. It maintains being thuggy and bouldery from then on. This route is an awesome, power endurance boulder problem. The route is about 50 feet long and will barely work with a 30m rope.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : East Creek Day Use Area : Rockshop Traverse (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: I have posted a new pic of where the route starts. For clarification, there are definitely moves harder than V2, as you will realize as you climb it. Ultimately there are 3 technical cruxes, that come in the first 70 feet. The cruxes are as follows:

1) Eight feet from the start, which is on two half pad edges, then moves into a nice long horizontal shelf....then the business begins. Get your left hand over as far as possible, make a reach over to an arching crimp/sidepull, adjust your feet, mak... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : East Creek Day Use Area : Rockshop Traverse (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: It definitely makes a difference if you start in the wrong place. Over the years, since this first appeared in R&I in the '90s, the start has become a little less obvious. The start is actually one of the three crux moves, as you have to drop from high to low in an off balance move. The next two cruxes come approximately 18 feet later and then about six feet before hitting the roof area.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Chinese Algebra Area : ... : Goodbye Blue Monday (V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Thanks again, Nick, for showing us the new stuff on the south side! The rock quality here is definitely amazing.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Ouray Rotary Park-Rink Wall : Seduction of Gravity (5.10c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: BEWARE, the buckets pillar that is around the third bolt, has fractured due to freeze and thaw, and is now VERY hollow and will fall off soon. Avoid the route until it is cleaned. The blocks weigh approximately 100 pounds each.

Just look to the right, where in between routes, 2 tons of rocks fell and knocked a tree down.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Chickaloon Boulders : Boulder 3 and 4 : Thunder FLuff (V8-9)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: I didn't know the heel cam until last year. When I first did it, Tom and I didn't use it.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Area 51 : ... : All Hail Hibernation (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: You're welcome, Nick. I hope to see you out sometime. And as an aside, as an administrator, thanks for the accuracy and compendious descriptions to MP. It makes our job providing accurate information easier.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bang's Canyon : She Bangs (5.11+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Unless I missed some holds checking it out and cleaning off holds, this is quite a bit harder than .11+. Up until the crux, it is nice and juggy, and a little dynamic. However, once you make a long reach to clip a bolt off of a left-hand jug/sidepull and grab a right hand sidepull, from there there is nothing but a two-finger, crimp pocket for the left and a few small crimps up and right, before the route backs off, before you finish the crux and the game is over.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Area 51 : ... : All Hail Hibernation (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: This problem is height-dependent, while shorter folks will have an easier time down low. If you are taller, you will feel bunched up at the start due to the high feet and getting to the crimp and side-pull will be the crux (and avoiding the barn door). While dynoing or dead-pointing from the gaston will not be an issue.


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