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Jared LaVacque on Acromion Division, currently the...


Member Since: Dec 22, 2008
Last Visit: 46 mins ago
Contact Jared LaVacque


Point Rank: # 72
Total Points: 5,055
Last Year: 181
Last 30 Days: 2
23 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jared LaVacque been climbing?










Contributions


All 1525 | Routes 93 | Areas 34 | Photos 693 | Page Improvements | Comments 150 | Posts 7 | Stars 399 | Ratings 149
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Chickaloon Boulders : Supernova and Pop Start Bou... : Wishful Thinking (V5-6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: 1 day ago

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Comments: There is a traverse to this problem called the Wishful Thinking Traverse. It starts on the same pinch-slopers and goes left at the first hold, through a series of heel hooks, pinches and blocks. It is V6+ and finishes on a hidden jug around the corner.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area : Bullet Hole Cliff Band
By: Jared LaVacque When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Get in touch with the Western Colorado Climbers Coalition and find out if this indeed on private property. If it is not, they need to be notified that they have no business removing anchors etc.

westernslopeclimbers.blogspot....


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Bikini Jones and The Termit... (V4+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 29, 2015

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Comments: Does God play dice with these curious folks?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : The Extremist (former enter... (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, except that both are "not considered .12a today". The Extremist is .12a or a/b, and Anarchy is .12c.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill Central : Peregrinus (V8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 31, 2014

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Comments: I am going to call BS too. As anyone in the community like Caleb, myself, or many others know, because we develop, what something that has been previously cleaned looks like. Lichen grows back, but the amount of cleaning, i.e. removing loose rock (which subsequently does not grow back) are telltale signs that a line wasn't done, and, as I remember, kclimbs has tried to take credit for other lines in the Valley as well.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Magic Tricks (V7-8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: Hey Andy,

As an admin, thanks for posting the route. It's a good line, between two other good lines. I tend to compare routes I have done across the country that are standards for the grade and then correlate similar movement. Either way, like I said, it climbs well and reminds me of My 15 Minutes, a V7 at Hueco Tanks on the closed Mushroom Boulder. Out of curiosity, PM me, which problem did someone say was V10? Also, if you want to head out bouldering and have me show you some lines that you m... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Young Lust (V8-9)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: I agree with your grade, definitely with your height/span. However, one of the purposes of MP is consensus grading, versus the guidebook format, reliant on one person's opinion. For me, I would say V5ish...but like I said, it is slightly height-dependent. Having climbed in the canyon for 20 years and establishing problems all over Grand Valley, my opinion is still just that, as is yours. As an admin for MP, thanks for providing feedback, and it was nice to briefly meet you.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Black Wave Area : Gyrus Block
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Woohoo, anatomy! Thanks for naming it that, Nick.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Endocrine Disruptor (V3)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Definitely a great line that will test your crimp strength and flexibility. A bit hard for the grade, so don't let that fool you.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Magic Tricks (V7-8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: This is a good line and certainly going to be height-dependent and more dynamic the shorter you are. The move is a huge, 6 foot span deadpoint/subtle dyno for me at 5'11" with a +5, and I think the grade is approximately V7. Generating the movement off of the left triangle edge pinch and bumping to the right crimp/gaston and then setting feet for the huge move is the business. This route demands precise technique, crimp strength, and power.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Young Lust (V8-9)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: This line has positive hands and a definite crux and could be harder/height-dependent, but there are higher feet that a taller person would avoid, so it might not affect the grade too much. Either way, this is no harder than V6.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Blue Moon Boulder Area : ... : Syphilis of the Finger (V6+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, brother, definitely another great and unique find! In retrospect, this seems significantly harder than Young Lust, and I think the given grade will stay or possibly bump to a + or / grade. I re-edited the information on sequence also.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Late Bloomer Boulder Area : ... : Minnesotan Drift Wood (V11)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 23, 2014

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Comments: I agree that this is not V11, but a good candidate for a V9/10 slash grade. I can definitely see how Caleb ruptured a tendon as well...offset feet and small crimps, with connective tissue absorbing the majority of the movement.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Riggs' Hill : Riggs' Hill East : Skybosh (V5- PG13)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Nov 23, 2014

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Comments: For once I agree with Caleb...kidney punch....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Unusual Weather (5.11b/c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: I did this in 1996 as part of one of my favorite endurance days, climbing 15 routes between .11a and .12c at the Bank. This was the last route, most were OS, and I was sure that I was going to take a huge whip off the last exit move on the crack going for the anchor. Positive lieback holds on 5.9 is easy, but don't let it fool you, you are going to take a 30+ foot fall if you blow this...more if you have slack out clipping :) Enjoy!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Rock Frog (5.10c PG13)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: Not that this route matters a whole lot, but it is only slightly easier and more polished than Ice Cream Hangover, which is .11b. It is no way .10c, in comparison to others in the area. It climbs like shit though.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Dune Boulder
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: Hey Nick, we are definitely going out there in December when I get back, plus, maybe the project will go down if my shoulder will cooperate :) I am psyched that this thing actually exists! And, it's not in Uganda.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : The Dark Arts (5.13d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: At the time that Brett and I were close to sending, it was in the .13c/d or d range. The span needed for the crux dead point is huge and might easily up the grade if the climber is shorter.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Four Blocks Crag : First Timer (5.8)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: The placement of the anchor is quite lame. The last 10 feet are on sandy stone, the worst rock on the route.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Four Blocks Crag : Pocket Reference (5.9+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: Forcing the route up the face underneath the first bolt (without using the corner to stem, which is logical) probably makes the crux V3/4, depending on direction, and would definitely alter the grade, though not improving the route.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Blue Moon Boulder Area : ... : Son of Hands (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Nick has put up yet another beautiful boulder problem in Unaweep! Congratulations again on having the "eye" of the Be-boulder-er! I was psyched to be there for your send!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Terminal Frost (V4-5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Certainly has broken holds as the move from the 2.5 finger pocket to the shallow 2 finger is improbable for the given grade. The route is probably V6 now and has lost a star.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Dogs of War (V4+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: This can be done at as a sit start with the left hand in a two-finger pocket and right hand out to a positive crimp. Then fire up to the right hand dimpled pinch, that the stand start starts on. This would bump the grade to V5/6 or 6-, because the crux is this second move(a controlled lunge to the pinch), versus the stand start. Definitely worth doing.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Bouldering... : Archangel Bouldering : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Another old photo, I changed the location.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Skull Fuck (5.13c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: I would suggest finding another route. Like I stated before, the route is doable, with a longer fall if you blow the crux. I suggest that you find someone with a drill that can assist you with replacing the bolt in question. Spend some time in the Rifle community, and see if you can find someone who will help you with your goal of retro-bolting the route. In the mean time, there are plenty of other routes in Rifle with a similar grade and length. I would suggest Dumpster BBQ, Fluff Boys, or for ... more >>


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