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Chick Floater


Member Since: Dec 22, 2008
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Jared LaVacque


Point Rank: # 68
Total Points: 4,906
Last Year: 678
Last 30 Days: 0
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jared LaVacque been climbing?










Contributions


All 1394 | Routes 91 | Areas 33 | Photos 675 | Page Improvments | Comments 126 | Posts 4 | Stars 342 | Ratings 123
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Skull Fuck (5.13c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: I would suggest finding another route. Like I stated before, the route is doable, with a longer fall if you blow the crux. I suggest that you find someone with a drill that can assist you with replacing the bolt in question. Spend some time in the Rifle community, and see if you can find someone who will help you with your goal of retro-bolting the route. In the mean time, there are plenty of other routes in Rifle with a similar grade and length. I would suggest Dumpster BBQ, Fluff Boys, or for ... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Gypsy Ninja (5.13b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: Probably better this way and non-contrived, though epoxied, than atrocious semi-grid bolted routes that are mostly epoxy and diverge and converge like Wookie. It is what it is and for it being Chugach crud, it's pretty good and it's what we have. Now, if there were only more of the Arrowhead Wall...face climbing is in the lacking department here.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Chump Monkey Among Us. (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: I propose that this discussion is closed at this point....until another subject comes up. Cheers.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Thief Among Us (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Kevin and I managed to break a few of those small feet as well. I agree, just natural progression with traffic.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Chump Monkey Among Us. (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Touche Todd...not getting into that again :) Lang, for routes of similar length and grade, Weekender is comparable, and Onomatopoeia(etc) is .12a and easier. I agree with consensus, that's the point( or rather one of) MP.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Gypsy Ninja (5.13b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Corrected the bolt count. I couldn't remember when looking over from Thief, if it was 2 or 3. A little epoxy is better than a whole wall full of it and held together with it and the most atrocious bolt grid I have ever seen...ahem...Weiner.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Stand and Deliver (5.13a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: I think Keenan and I are getting on this, this weekend. Chris B says it's super bouldery...so I am looking forward to it, then get somewhat of a consensus on it.
Either way, it finishes in Chump's crux, so should be kinda relentless until the rest right before Chump's crux.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Chump Monkey Among Us. (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: The climb is a confirmed .12b when it was a FA, by it's FA party. Subsequently, holds have broken, and is now b/c to c. Make no mistake, this is not a .12a.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Thief Among Us (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 17, 2014

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Comments: Broken hold up high and the grade is definitely .12d, doesn't change the quality, just a little harder.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Stronghold Campgrou... : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Winning?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Stronghold Campgrou... : Rain Chaser (V4)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: See the new link to cochiseclimbing.com for more information, historically.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Bouldering... : Archangel Bouldering : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Todd. It is moved. I hadn't looked at those pics since 2010 when I posted it.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Holy Cross Boulders (aka Ar... : Joe's Simulator (V11)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Approximate location via GPS is:

Latitude: 39 2'2.53"N

Longitude: 10836'12.85"W

The location is approximate, but within two minutes' walk, North or South of location, or up toward the road, or down toward the valley.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Holy Cross Boulders (aka Ar... : Holy Cross (V10)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Approximate location via GPS is:

Latitude: 39 2'2.53"N

Longitude: 10836'12.85"W

The location is approximate but within two minutes' walk, North or South of location, or up toward the road, or down toward the valley.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Holy Cross Boulders (aka Ar... : Holy Cross (V10)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Approximate location via GPS is:

Latitude: 39 2'2.53"N

Longitude: 10836'12.85"W

The location is approximate but within two minutes' walk, North or South of location, or up toward the road, or down toward the valley.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Skull Fuck (5.13c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: Ok. The 5th bolt is attached to itself, biner to hanger, because it is garbage. Now, I suppose you could clip it, but it is in that position for a reason. The hanger is about 1/4 inch away from the rock because the bolt and sleeve are pulling out. Now, it IS doable, but if you blow the crux sequence, your fall WILL be longer, because you should not be using the bolt. So, I worked it took longer falls and then punched through the crux w/o falling, through two sections, ground through crux, clippe... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Skull Fuck (5.13c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: No, it has not been rebolted. The condition of this route and that bolt in particular are as of the end of November, 2013. The route is doable until replacement, the crux fall will be a little longer, should you blow it.


Location: Jared LaVacque : Microcosm : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: No, it was disassembled in 2007 when I moved to AK.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Texas Boulder Parking Area : ... : The Dakota River Forge (V6-7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Different Version:

Instead of starting on both crimps, start matched only on the left hand crimp. Move up to the first left hand side-pull and then bump to the second left hand side-pull(while your right hand is still on the crimp), move your feet up to patina scabs and lunge to the highest right hand side-pull, set your feet and back step the starting crimp and then lunge to the lip. This version eliminates the compression, avoids the lowest right hand side-pull and softens the grade to V5+/V6... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Palisade : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 24, 2013

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Comments: Geography is awesome.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Springer Gulch Wall : Unknown (5.12b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: The FA on this is Mark VanHorn. I had the 2nd ascent on this and confirmed the grade.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Bouldering : The Blowouts Area : Long Traverse (V6)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Since doing this, beginning in the '90s, we always started on the left side of the cave and traversed through the obvious section, before dropping down and left to finish on the tall line that ends in a hueco. See the picture for finish. This line has many contrivations, including a V11 put up by Ian-Spencer Green and Scott Brown, in the late '90s.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Bouldering : The Snake Pit Area : ... : Swiss Cheese (V3+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: There are many eliminates for these problems. I have been climbing on this since the early '90s, and just like the Black Hole in Morrison, there are many ways to contrive. Versions up to V8 from the same start pinches have been done.

An example of a standard V4 is as follows:

Start on both vertical pinches, bump left to smaller pinch sidepull, move right to a gaston, up and right, hit left hand in the cluster of pockets, fire up left to a crimp, right to jug and finish straight on edges or mov... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Bouldering : The Snake Pit Area : ... : Unknown V4 (V4)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: There are many eliminates for these problems. I have been climbing on this since the early '90s, and just like the Black Hole in Morrison, there are many ways to contrive. Versions up to V8 from the same start pinches have been done.

An example of a standard V4 is as follows:

Start on both vertical pinches, bump left to smaller pinch sidepull, move right to a gaston, up and right, hit left hand in the cluster of pockets, fire up left to a crimp, right to jug and finish straight on edges or mov... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Palisade : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: Mount Garfield, from Clifton, actually.


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