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Lover's Leap


Member Since: Apr 14, 2003
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 7,868
Total Points: 35
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 41 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 17 | Posts 8 | Stars 8 | Ratings 5

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Smoke Screen (5.10c)
By: Jamie S. When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Beta alert pitch 2 and 3:

Be careful on pitch 2 and 3 if you're not a solid face/slab climber at 5.10+. Getting off the belay on pitch 2 to the first bolt is really scary. I was able to get below a big horn and throw a runner on it and then mantle it to clip the bolt. It really should get another bolt so you're not looking at falling straight on the belay doing 9+ moves. The 3 pitch is not super hard but is waay run out and scary.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Labor of Love (5.10b PG13)
By: Jamie S. When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: A couple of things, I just did this route. You cannot rap off the first pitch w/a 70m, it's about 20ft. short...need two ropes as mentioned in route description. There are no hard mantles 20ft out from bolts. It's probably 5.9ish between bolts, with a definite crux at one of the bolts. Clipping the first bolt there is at most a 10a move to get up to where you can clip it. I'm a 5.11 face climber and 5'8"...the crux was 5.11 for me and was not able to get it clean as the hold is 6 inches out of ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : Hogwild : Accessory Dogs (5.10a)
By: Jamie S. When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: There are two ways to go at the crux, high or low. High is 10a, low is 5.9. There's probably a 10a move getting up to the crux however...I'd rate the whole climb 10a.


Location: AL : Steele : Wendy's Finger Crack (5.11b/c)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 6, 2014

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Comments: I freed the first pitch, and Mark Henley and I freed the 2nd pitch at about 5.11a, really cool moves out a roof. It has been done as one long pitch as well.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugar Bun : Wintergreen (5.10c PG13)
By: Jamie S. When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: I climbed it for the 2nd time yesterday. The last bolt, before the mental crux, would have ideally been drilled about 5-7 feet higher, but it was drilled on lead so not complaining. I found that if you go straight up from the last bolt and don't step right, it's easier, though slightly more run-out. There's no need for any more bolts on the route if you can climb at this level.


Location: AL : Steele : Rockwa (5.10+ PG13)
By: Jamie S. When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: I did the 2nd ascent with Les and Mark cheering me on from below, but it was scary. I tied off the knifeblade and then a little higher was a flake that you lassoed with a runner. After that I disappeared into that killer hole and folks below couldn't believe it. I had looked at that wall for many years wondering if anything would go up through there. Maurice sure had an eye for new lines.


Location: AL : Steele : Golden Arches (5.9-) : Photo
By: Jamie S. When: Feb 8, 2012

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Comments: Wendy's 2nd pitch goes through the roof above Golden Arches and is 5.11. Good pic of Wendy's first pitch.


Location: AL : Steele : Black Magic (5.10 PG13)
By: Jamie S. When: Feb 8, 2012

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Comments: Les Hutchison freed it, Mark Henley followed. WCounty Friends made the start do-able as it has a flare near the bottom and it would be difficult to lead w/o getting that in for pro.


Location: AL : Steele : Uncertain Return (5.9)
By: Jamie S. When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments:
  • ** ??? (someone fill us in) ***

This was freed by Les Hutchison and Ken Pitts followed. The exposure is incredible. Excellent route. I think Les and Mark Henley aided it years before, but not 100% on that.


Location: AL : Steele : Suspended Animation (5.10b)
By: Jamie S. When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: I think Ken Pitts did the first ascent of this route....Jamie


Location: AL : Steele : Monopoly (5.9)
By: Jamie S. When: Feb 24, 2011

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Comments: Just some route history:

Joel Berry attempted the first ascent traverse at the beginning, but backed off. I went up and completed it to the arete and called it Monopoly. Buddy Barron did the first ascent of the arete. I think Les put the whole thing together. Classic for its grade and exposure.

-Uni


Location: AL : Steele : Photo
By: Jamie S. When: Dec 15, 2010

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Comments: I don't know who called it Chandler's Roof because we always called it "Rat's Ass".

-Jamie S


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Tax Man (5.10a)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: This route is super high quality. It's mostly crack moves. A fairly longish approach, unless you possibly come in by the Dairy Queen Wall. It protects very well too, but is a stiff 10a lead. I was able to onsight okay myself.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Overseer (5.9)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: The flake down low has adequate pro (wires) and after moving up and right a bit, one can get very solid pro in. The roof is really cool and solid 5.9, I thought.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stick to What (5.9 R)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: I second the poster about where the route goes. Do *not* clip the 2nd bolt located to the left of the first bolt a little up and left, and do not stray too far right from the 1st bolt. Route follows line about three feet to right of bolt. It scared me quite a bit, but it's all there. Definitely an R with the atrocious landing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Papa Woolsey (5.10b)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: The climb's a classic. Crux is at the top, I thought. Beautiful position. Getting off is another story. Downclimbing to the West looked too heinous (chimneying) to me. I headed to the entire opposite end of the rock and there's a horn there to rap on on the right side, off the East side as you're facing the back of the rock. Two raps with a single rope. It was an okay rappel. Not too hard a pull. We left a sling and a rap ring on the lower ledge. Some Josh rats hollered up that I could... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Right Side : Chalk Up Another One (5.10a)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: I just climbed it the other day. The Vogel guide listed it as a 10a, which I'd confirm. I onsighted it fine. Great route. Easy descent.