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Location: AL : Steele : Golden Arches (5.9-) : Photo
By: Jamie S. When: Feb 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wendy's 2nd pitch goes through the roof above Golden Arches and is 5.11. Good pic of Wendy's first pitch.
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Location: AL : Steele : Black Magic (5.10 PG13)
By: Jamie S. When: Feb 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Les Hutchison freed it, Mark Henley followed. WCounty Friends made the start do-able as it has a flare near the bottom and it would be difficult to lead w/o getting that in for pro.
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Location: AL : Steele : Uncertain Return (5.9)
By: Jamie S. When: Sep 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: - ** ??? (someone fill us in) ***
This was freed by Les Hutchison and Ken Pitts followed. The exposure is incredible. Excellent route. I think Les and Mark Henley aided it years before, but not 100% on that.
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Location: AL : Steele : Suspended Animation (5.10b)
By: Jamie S. When: Sep 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Ken Pitts did the first ascent of this route....Jamie
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Location: AL : Steele : Monopoly (5.9)
By: Jamie S. When: Feb 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just some route history:
Joel Berry attempted the first ascent traverse at the beginning, but backed off. I went up and completed it to the arete and called it Monopoly. Buddy Barron did the first ascent of the arete. I think Les put the whole thing together. Classic for its grade and exposure.
-Uni
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Location: AL : Steele : Photo
By: Jamie S. When: Dec 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know who called it Chandler's Roof because we always called it "Rat's Ass".
-Jamie S
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Tax Man (5.10a)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is super high quality. It's mostly crack moves. A fairly longish approach, unless you possibly come in by the Dairy Queen Wall. It protects very well too, but is a stiff 10a lead. I was able to onsight okay myself.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Overseer (5.9)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The flake down low has adequate pro (wires) and after moving up and right a bit, one can get very solid pro in. The roof is really cool and solid 5.9, I thought.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stick to What (5.9 R)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second the poster about where the route goes. Do *not* clip the 2nd bolt located to the left of the first bolt a little up and left, and do not stray too far right from the 1st bolt. Route follows line about three feet to right of bolt. It scared me quite a bit, but it's all there. Definitely an R with the atrocious landing.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Papa Woolsey (5.10b)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb's a classic. Crux is at the top, I thought. Beautiful position. Getting off is another story. Downclimbing to the West looked too heinous (chimneying) to me. I headed to the entire opposite end of the rock and there's a horn there to rap on on the right side, off the East side as you're facing the back of the rock. Two raps with a single rope. It was an okay rappel. Not too hard a pull. We left a sling and a rap ring on the lower ledge. Some Josh rats hollered up that I could... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Right Side : Chalk Up Another One (5.10a)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just climbed it the other day. The Vogel guide listed it as a 10a, which I'd confirm. I onsighted it fine. Great route. Easy descent.
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