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Lover's Leap


Member Since: Apr 14, 2003
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Jamie Silliman

Point Rank: # 8,758
Total Points: 35
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 38 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 12 | Posts 8 | Stars 10 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Espresso

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face

Apr 13, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
"Fickle Finger" crack Deer Bridge Dome

"Fickle Finger" crack Deer Bridge Dome

CA : Central Sierra : ... : Hammer Dome

Feb 16, 2015

Lover's Leap

Lover's Leap

Jamie Silliman : Personal

Oct 16, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarbun : Make That Move Right Now Ba... (5.10d)
By: Jamie Silliman When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: I've found that there are two different ways to do the bottom move...imho, one is 10d and the other is 5.11a...


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarbun : East Corner (5.9)
By: Jamie Silliman When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: I found it pretty sustained 5.9, but great way to get on top of Sugarbun. I jammed it as a fist crack and placed two large pieces down low on the crux. A great climb. There's one bolt at the top to lower off, or easy climb over to "Make that move..." anchor (recommended).


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : The Podium (5.9 R)
By: Jamie Silliman When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: I rapped off the tree and didn't like it earlier this year (2014). I found that after the initial off-width (5.9), where you can use a wide piece, that I could protect the chimney fairly well by staying more inside of it where I could place pro, rather on the outside. There were some run-out sections, but I did not run it out all the way from the end of the off-width, to the top.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Smoke Screen (5.10c)
By: Jamie Silliman When: Oct 17, 2014

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Comments: Beta alert pitch 2 and 3:

Be careful on pitch 2 and 3 if you're not a solid face/slab climber at 5.10+. Getting off the belay on pitch 2 to the first bolt is really scary. I was able to get below a big horn and throw a runner on it and then mantle it to clip the bolt. It really should get another bolt so you're not looking at falling straight on the belay doing 9+ moves. The 3 pitch is not super hard but is waay run out and scary.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Labor of Love (5.10b PG13)
By: Jamie Silliman When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: A couple of things, I just did this route. You cannot rap off the first pitch w/a 70m, it's about 20ft. short...need two ropes as mentioned in route description. There are no hard mantles 20ft out from bolts. It's probably 5.9ish between bolts, with a definite crux at one of the bolts. Clipping the first bolt there is at most a 10a move to get up to where you can clip it. I'm a 5.11 face climber and 5'8"...the crux was 5.11 for me and was not able to get it clean as the hold is 6 inches out of ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : ... : Accessory Dogs (5.10a)
By: Jamie Silliman When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: There are two ways to go at the crux, high or low. High is 10a, low is 5.9. There's probably a 10a move getting up to the crux however...I'd rate the whole climb 10a.


Location: AL : Steele : SCC Property : Suspended Animation (5.10b)
By: Jamie Silliman When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: I think Ken Pitts did the first ascent of this route....Jamie


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Tax Man (5.10a)
By: Jamie Silliman When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: This route is super high quality. It's mostly crack moves. A fairly longish approach, unless you possibly come in by the Dairy Queen Wall. It protects very well too, but is a stiff 10a lead. I was able to onsight okay myself.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Overseer (5.9)
By: Jamie Silliman When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: The flake down low has adequate pro (wires) and after moving up and right a bit, one can get very solid pro in. The roof is really cool and solid 5.9, I thought.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stick to What (5.9 R)
By: Jamie Silliman When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: I second the poster about where the route goes. Do *not* clip the 2nd bolt located to the left of the first bolt a little up and left, and do not stray too far right from the 1st bolt. Route follows line about three feet to right of bolt. It scared me quite a bit, but it's all there. Definitely an R with the atrocious landing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Papa Woolsey (5.10b)
By: Jamie Silliman When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: The climb's a classic. Crux is at the top, I thought. Beautiful position. Getting off is another story. Downclimbing to the West looked too heinous (chimneying) to me. I headed to the entire opposite end of the rock and there's a horn there to rap on on the right side, off the East side as you're facing the back of the rock. Two raps with a single rope. It was an okay rappel. Not too hard a pull. We left a sling and a rap ring on the lower ledge. Some Josh rats hollered up that I could... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Right Side : Chalk Up Another One (5.10a)
By: Jamie Silliman When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: I just climbed it the other day. The Vogel guide listed it as a 10a, which I'd confirm. I onsighted it fine. Great route. Easy descent.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Northern CA climbers...moving advice needed: COOL climbing towns around Sacramento!??!!!Northern CaliforniaJamie SillimanSep 29, 2014
re: Classic NC routes...Southern StatesJamie SillimanSep 28, 2014
Yosemite Dec 27-30Northern California PartnersJamie SillimanDec 23, 2013
re: Ride offered to Calaveras Dome this Friday 10/17Northern California PartnersJamie SillimanOct 16, 2013
re: anyone want to climb on the 4th or 5th in TahoeNorthern California PartnersJamie SillimanSep 3, 2013
re: South Lake Tahoe (4/18-21)Northern California PartnersJamie SillimanApr 19, 2013
re: Yosemite Valley 3/9-10Northern California PartnersJamie SillimanFeb 28, 2013
NorCal: Calaveras Dome Partners for (11/22 through 11/25)Northern CaliforniaJamie SillimanNov 20, 2012

Contributed Page Improvements

Page Suggestions

Aug 7, 2014

Lesbian Love

FA = Aidan Maguire

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Tax Man 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : IRS Wall

Blue Velvet 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, East Face

Make That Move Right Now Baby 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarbun

Candyland 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Middle Spire

The Line 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : East Wall

The Podium 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face

Prociutto 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Hogwild

Espresso 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face

Wintergreen 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarbun

Estrellita 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

North America : Mexico : ... : Las Estrellas (The Stars)

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Make That Move Right Now Baby

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarbun

Wintergreen

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarbun

Prociutto

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Hogwild

Candyland

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Middle Spire

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