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Lover's Leap


Member Since: Apr 14, 2003
Last Visit: Apr 16, 2014
Contact Jamie S.


Point Rank: # 8,184
Total Points: 29
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 11
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Contributions


All (31) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (1) | Comments (14) | Posts (7) | Stars (5) | Ratings (3)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Espresso

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face

Apr 13, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Lover's Leap

Lover's Leap

Jamie S. : Personal

Oct 16, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AL : Steele : Wendy's Finger Crack (5.11b/c)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 6, 2014

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Comments: I freed the first pitch, and Mark Henley and I freed the 2nd pitch at about 5.11a, really cool moves out a roof. It has been done as one long pitch as well.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugar Bun : Wintergreen (5.10c PG13)
By: Jamie S. When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: I climbed it for the 2nd time yesterday. The last bolt, before the mental crux, would have ideally been drilled about 5-7 feet higher, but it was drilled on lead so not complaining. I found that if you go straight up from the last bolt and don't step right, it's easier, though slightly more run-out. There's no need for any more bolts on the route if you can climb at this level.


Location: AL : Steele : Rockwa (5.10+ PG13)
By: Jamie S. When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: I did the 2nd ascent with Les and Mark cheering me on from below, but it was scary. I tied off the knifeblade and then a little higher was a flake that you lassoed with a runner. After that I disappeared into that killer hole and folks below couldn't believe it. I had looked at that wall for many years wondering if anything would go up through there. Maurice sure had an eye for new lines.


Location: AL : Steele : Golden Arches (5.9-) : Photo
By: Jamie S. When: Feb 8, 2012

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Comments: Wendy's 2nd pitch goes through the roof above Golden Arches and is 5.11. Good pic of Wendy's first pitch.


Location: AL : Steele : Black Magic (5.10 PG13)
By: Jamie S. When: Feb 8, 2012

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Comments: Les Hutchison freed it, Mark Henley followed. WCounty Friends made the start do-able as it has a flare near the bottom and it would be difficult to lead w/o getting that in for pro.


Location: AL : Steele : Uncertain Return (5.9)
By: Jamie S. When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments:
  • ** ??? (someone fill us in) ***

This was freed by Les Hutchison and Ken Pitts followed. The exposure is incredible. Excellent route. I think Les and Mark Henley aided it years before, but not 100% on that.


Location: AL : Steele : Suspended Animation (5.10b)
By: Jamie S. When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: I think Ken Pitts did the first ascent of this route....Jamie


Location: AL : Steele : Monopoly (5.9)
By: Jamie S. When: Feb 24, 2011

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Comments: Just some route history:

Joel Berry attempted the first ascent traverse at the beginning, but backed off. I went up and completed it to the arete and called it Monopoly. Buddy Barron did the first ascent of the arete. I think Les put the whole thing together. Classic for its grade and exposure.

-Uni


Location: AL : Steele : Photo
By: Jamie S. When: Dec 15, 2010

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Comments: I don't know who called it Chandler's Roof because we always called it "Rat's Ass".

-Jamie S


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Tax Man (5.10a)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: This route is super high quality. It's mostly crack moves. A fairly longish approach, unless you possibly come in by the Dairy Queen Wall. It protects very well too, but is a stiff 10a lead. I was able to onsight okay myself.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Overseer (5.9)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: The flake down low has adequate pro (wires) and after moving up and right a bit, one can get very solid pro in. The roof is really cool and solid 5.9, I thought.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stick to What (5.9 R)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: I second the poster about where the route goes. Do *not* clip the 2nd bolt located to the left of the first bolt a little up and left, and do not stray too far right from the 1st bolt. Route follows line about three feet to right of bolt. It scared me quite a bit, but it's all there. Definitely an R with the atrocious landing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Papa Woolsey (5.10b)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: The climb's a classic. Crux is at the top, I thought. Beautiful position. Getting off is another story. Downclimbing to the West looked too heinous (chimneying) to me. I headed to the entire opposite end of the rock and there's a horn there to rap on on the right side, off the East side as you're facing the back of the rock. Two raps with a single rope. It was an okay rappel. Not too hard a pull. We left a sling and a rap ring on the lower ledge. Some Josh rats hollered up that I could... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Right Side : Chalk Up Another One (5.10a)
By: Jamie S. When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: I just climbed it the other day. The Vogel guide listed it as a 10a, which I'd confirm. I onsighted it fine. Great route. Easy descent.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
Yosemite Dec 27-30Northern California PartnersJamie S.Dec 23, 2013
Joshua Tree for New Years - Dec. 27 - Jan. 2Southern California PartnersJamie S.Oct 24, 2013
re: Ride offered to Calaveras Dome this Friday 10/17Northern California PartnersJamie S.Oct 16, 2013
re: anyone want to climb on the 4th or 5th in TahoeNorthern California PartnersJamie S.Sep 3, 2013
re: South Lake Tahoe (4/18-21)Northern California PartnersJamie S.Apr 19, 2013
re: Yosemite Valley 3/9-10Northern California PartnersJamie S.Feb 28, 2013
NorCal: Calaveras Dome Partners for (11/22 through 11/25)Northern CaliforniaJamie S.Nov 20, 2012

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Tax Man 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : IRS Wall

Blue Velvet 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, East Face

Make That Move Right Now Baby 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugar Bun

Wintergreen 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugar Bun

Espresso 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Make That Move Right Now Baby

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugar Bun

Wintergreen

5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugar Bun

Uncertain Return

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

AL : Steele

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