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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Harkonnen Castle
By: Jamie Princo When: Mar 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: derek wolfe and i climbed a different route today to ham rock's("harkonnen castle") true summit. we climbed from the north to the 5.8+ bulge to the saddle between the ham and the main summit and worked our way around to the 5.6/5.7 dirty west chimney. from there it's an easy cruise to the summit.
we saw the 3-bolt anchor for the 5.10 route on the sub-summit across the large gash. our question is has anyone been to the true summit previously? it certainly didn't look that way.
jamie
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Comb Ridge : 13.5 miles : Good Moki Mojo (5.7)
By: Jamie Princo When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: agreed! loose, nasty choss slot, not worth one's time or energy.
jamie
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Deserted Cities of the Hear... (5.9)
By: Jamie Princo When: Sep 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really good climb. Qe were surprised at how sustained the 5.9 climbing was! From this site, we assumed the bulge on P2 was the crux and possibly the only 5.9 move, but that's untrue as the thin 5.9 moves are consistent for the first 4-5 bolts on P2. Also, breaking the climb into 2 pitches is very important to reduce rope drag higher up.
jamie
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Achean Pronouncement : East Face/Achean Pronouncem... (5.7)
By: Jamie Princo When: Sep 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is an awesome, hidden gem on a relatively unknown Flatiron. Thanks for posting that TR, Brian; I was hoping to see something from this day.
Yes, Skunk Canyon's foliage is going wild this year, but the approach isn't bad if one knows the secrets of the trail. The poison ivy is immense, many times larger than I expected! A microcam off to its right safely detoured us from this obstacle. The 5.8 section on the summit block's SE corner loads of fun, wish it was longer! Great ho... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron
By: Jamie Princo When: Jul 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah Mark, I just spoke with leah at OSMP about The Matron, and she said go ahead and climb.
jamie
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Takin' Care of Business/ We... (5.5)
By: Jamie Princo When: Jul 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: We brought a fairly big rack yesterday, since we were doing other climbs throughout the day. I figured, why not, I'll lug some of this stuff up the chimney for training weight. As a result, I was able to sew up the chimney fairly decently, playing seven pieces (wouldn't have trusted two to hold a leader fall) at pretty even intervals. This surprised me seeing that everyone out there talks about only one piece of pro for the route. Has anyone else had this experience and just hasn't spoken up? Th... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Zeus : Northeast Ridge (5.7 A0)
By: Jamie Princo When: Oct 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: someone removed the bolts?!?!? come on!
my heart just jumped after discovering there was a 5.7/A0 on zeus, then sank while reading about the bolts. that sucks. does canyonlands no bolts ethics prevent bolts from being replaced in the old slots once again since it's not further scarring the rock? what do you think the route goes without the bolts? 5.9?
jamie
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Wings, Eastern Slab... : North Wing Center (5.3)
By: Jamie Princo When: Jul 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems like a seasonal thing to me. We were on the North Wing Friday(7/18), and while there were places with lichen, its presence was never disturbing. Overall, it was cleaner than I hoped. Then again, all the cracks seemed to be leaning left in my eyes, and our three parties could have all been on different lines.
Jamie
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : East Ridge (5.5)
By: Jamie Princo When: Dec 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Julius, I figured the fading light was holding a secret from us. I'll keep a sharp eye out for something much further left next time.
jamie
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : East Ridge (5.5)
By: Jamie Princo When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone rappeled the Matron recently?
We did Saturday and seemingly got off route. I went first on the upper rappel and found an awkwardly placed pair of bolts ~90 feet down far to the rappeler's right. The next rap, on a 60m rope, will reach the ground if one followed the rock face down to the left. If one slips on all that lichen in the area, or goes over the overhang straight below the bolts, it's a long way back up the rope for a "re-do".
Summitpost makes it sound like the second set of... more >>
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