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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've encountered rattlesnakes almost every time in the canyon. Witches' Canyon seems to be a little worse, but they are all over. Some of the easiest access per the amount of climbs anywhere.
Rock quality is superb on most of the climbs. Due to the nature of the rock, the grades can be deceiving. Low grades are often very slabby and runnout, falls would be horrible on lead for many low grades here. 5.10s and up can feel very bouldery and deceivingly difficult for the grade. Definitely get a fe... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Cement Creek
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Many of these can be climbed in March if there isn't water coming off the caves. Extremely sharp rock on many of these. Grades not necessarily hard, but rock is so sharp that it's painful to touch let alone put weight on.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress : Angles Away (5.9+)
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would say 5.9 first pitch, 5.10+ for pitch 2. The dihedral is far more tricky to protect than one would think.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Left Hand : Left Hand Crack (5.8)
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this the first time when I was 12, and it's still a tricky climb and I climb 12s and 13s now. I would call this one of those classically graded routes. Best climb in Taylor, IMO.
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Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Hone Stone : Atomic Tick Fever (V7)
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Desperate climb all the way. V7 is a pretty light rating, IMO. The sit start is way out of my league.
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Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Hone Stone : Weeping Warrior/Berholtz Ar... (V9-)
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Solid V7. I've heard everything from V5 to V10....
I don't think it's harder than V7. Pretty sustained climbing all the way up.
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Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Wave
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very sharp, crimpy, and delicate problems. This boulder stays wet for a long time, so not a good rock any time soon after a rain. Bouldering book I have puts most under V3. Grades are fairly light, IMO. All the face routes on this boulder feel much harder than V3.
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