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Member Since: Feb 17, 2011
Last Visit: Jul 17, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,478
Total Points: 209
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jamie Estep been climbing?










Contributions


All 81 | Routes 8 | Areas 3 | Photos 10 | Page Improvments | Comments 34 | Posts | Stars 24 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress : Slap Happy (5.12+)
By: Jamie Estep When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: When was this bolted? I remember playing around on it in 2000. I figured it would go about 13a/b'ish. I didn't remember there being any bolts on it at the time.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon
By: Jamie Estep When: Nov 20, 2011

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Comments: Don't want to fuel the fire too much here, but what got bolted? I personally think the re-bolting of the left hand anchors was completely horrendous about 10 year ago, not in that they needed to be replaced, but the location was for the Tony's toproping tours and not anyone who'd actually climb it. Did some line actually get bolted?


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Maria's Farewell (5.10+)
By: Jamie Estep When: Oct 12, 2011

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Comments: At least you didn't "2" the fall. There's some awesome Swiss cheese 5.8s in Penitente worth leading.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Cement Creek : Disco Inferno Wall
By: Jamie Estep When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: Great area that nobody every climbs at. Better quality than The Caves with a similar approach.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Cement Creek : Anarchy Wall : Anarchy Corner (5.9)
By: Jamie Estep When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: Very clean climb, but deceptively difficult. Great quality climb close to CB. An absolute must do for any CB Crack climber.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Cement Creek : Anarchy Wall : CB Crack (5.10d)
By: Jamie Estep When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: So glad someone added a few routes on this wall. I found it an easier lead than Anarchy Corner, but if you decide to layback, protecting it is nearly impossible. Nearly as high of quality climb as anything at Taylor. I'll get a picture next time I'm in CB, hopefully this July.


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Joint Boulder : Filth Pig (V6)
By: Jamie Estep When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: The landing on this was suicidal last time I was on it. Rocks, 2 sharp stumps, and a bunch of other stuff you wouldn't want to land on. I can't imagine anyone trying this if they aren't more than proficient at the grade, but seriously this thing is nuts.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Bouldering Areas : Quarter Inch Master Area : Jaws Arete (V6)
By: Jamie Estep When: May 4, 2011

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Comments: If Pedro... said it's done, I would believe it.

He and Bernholdtz and a bunch of others pounded out just about everything under 5.14 in the entire county by about 12 years ago. I was breaking into the 5.13 range here at the time, and there was pretty much nothing left for a first ascent, less Lake City.

I will definitely agree on the frustration of climbing and naming at Hartmans though. Some of those problems have waited years, or decades, for second attempts for sure. Great to see some hard... more >>


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Hone Stone : Crimps on the East Side (V7-8)
By: Jamie Estep When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: Probably V5. Definitely not in the ballpark of the climbs on the other side. Last time I climbed this we had to clean moss off all over the face. Not sure how much it gets cleaned anymore.


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : Warm-up Boulder : Unknown (V1)
By: Jamie Estep When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: I would grade this V0-, or not in a V rating. Probably a 5.8 crack. Great warmup though. By limited a few holds for feet or the huge horizontal seam, you can make this climb much harder.


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Spice Rack : Spicy (V6)
By: Jamie Estep When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: I would say this is a solid V6. It looks much easier than it is. Very, very hard on the shoulders.


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : Battleship Boulder : All Hands on Deck (V3-4)
By: Jamie Estep When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: This was originally rated V5 if my memory serves me correctly. It's hard to say whether it's a V5 or just an awkward V3....


Location: CO : Gunnison : Lost Canyon : The Claw Wall : The Claw (V3)
By: Jamie Estep When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: I believe this is rated V1 in bouldering in the G spot. I would agree that it is solid V3.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Taylor Canyon Bouldering : Second Buttress Cluster : ... : Snug Slot - Sit Start (V6-7)
By: Jamie Estep When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: Had a guidebook that rated this V4 with the sit start. Couldn't figure out why I could climb V6/V7 everywhere else and this stupid V4 was kicking my A**. Hard problem from sit....


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : North Bank
By: Jamie Estep When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: Just added all of the sport routes on the North Bank along with pictures. I haven't been up there in about 5 years as I live in Texas now, so there may be a few more by now.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : North Bank : North Bank Upper : Stack Factor (5.12c PG13)
By: Jamie Estep When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: I wasn't sure on the actual grade or name of this climb. I worked on it for a few months in the summer of 2000. I've never even seen another person on it other than myself. I haven't been on it for 11 years now, so my memory is a little fuzzy if there even was a notable crux. Sustained and bouldery all the way up. It also wasn't climbed much at all then, so there was quite a bit of dirt on some of the key holds.

I would conservatively grade it at 12b/12c. It may be harder or it may just be so p... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : North Bank : North Bank Left : Rogue Repeater (5.11c)
By: Jamie Estep When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: This is by far the best sport route on this section of North Bank if you can climb the grade. Very tricky crux, but it is very well-protected on lead. Climb Persnickety and top rope this one if you can't lead it.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : North Bank : North Bank Middle : Dogface (5.9)
By: Jamie Estep When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: Approximately 5.9 if you go left, significantly harder direct up the seam. I've heard 9+. I've done the seam without any relief from the upper ledge and I would call it more like a 1 move 11+.


Location: CO : Gunnison : God's Crag
By: Jamie Estep When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: Not sure who is keeping track any more. I helped put up 3 - 5.10'ish routes out here in 2000. There's probably 10 - 15 more routes than listed at least by now. Many of these are very deceiving in grade. Very good quality rock, but 10a is fairly tough here.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Left Hand : Tony's Tango (5.6)
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 23, 2011

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Comments: First lead I've ever done was Tony's and without a single cam, not that I can say that was a good idea.

It has good protection. A bit of a mind game when you start slipping out at the bulging crux. If you over protect it, the rope drag is terrible. Good lead for new leading climbers that can safely climb the grade.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Left Hand : Kindergarten Crack (5.4)
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 23, 2011

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Comments: Excellent climb for brand new climbers and getting people into crack climbing. First climb I ever did, and first free solo that I've done as well setting up a toprope on.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Dunn's Dihedral (5.8)
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 23, 2011

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Comments: Quality crack climbing, but the lower section is more of a scramble. The thorn bush about half way up requires you to turn up the left face. I wouldn't say it's a good first lead, but a good first "real" lead. Make sure you have a 70m rope if you try to do it in 1 pitch.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Baby Face / Middle Wall : Question of Balance (5.11)
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 23, 2011

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Comments: I've always found this hard to protect, but I spend most of my time on sport routes. Doing the crux direct adds about a full grade to the climb. Easy out - 5.10d, direct - 5.11c'ish... Sustained 5.9 - 5.10b climbing to the crux.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 17, 2011

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Comments: I've encountered rattlesnakes almost every time in the canyon. Witches' Canyon seems to be a little worse, but they are all over. Some of the easiest access per the amount of climbs anywhere.

Rock quality is superb on most of the climbs. Due to the nature of the rock, the grades can be deceiving. Low grades are often very slabby and runnout, falls would be horrible on lead for many low grades here. 5.10s and up can feel very bouldery and deceivingly difficult for the grade. Definitely get a fe... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Cement Creek
By: Jamie Estep When: Feb 17, 2011

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Comments: Many of these can be climbed in March if there isn't water coming off the caves. Extremely sharp rock on many of these. Grades not necessarily hard, but rock is so sharp that it's painful to touch let alone put weight on.


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