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Location: AZ : Linda Vista
By: James DeRoussel When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was not implying that the area was new, or even newly discovered. Just newly "developed".
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Photo
By: James DeRoussel When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Superb.
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Location: Daryl Allan : Climbing : Photo
By: James DeRoussel When: Dec 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, that's one hell of an encounter. Now I have to go clean my drawers.
This was in December?!
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Location: AZ : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : The Fellowship (5.10+ A4 X)
By: James DeRoussel When: Dec 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: rickd, any idea what year this was FA?
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Location: The Boodge : what? : Photo
By: James DeRoussel When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your dog's name is Boudreaux? That is awesome.
My mom's maiden name is Boudreaux.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Cave Wall : Pali Gap (5.7)
By: James DeRoussel When: Oct 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left bolt at the anchor flexes visibly under body weight.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Incinerated ... : Battle of My Bulge (5.9)
By: James DeRoussel When: Oct 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux move over the bulge is very committing and firmly in the 5.9 grade. Pick one of the non-existent footholds, hope it stays put, and go for it!
The final bolt on this route is oddly placed...no, I take that back. The anchor is oddly placed, far left of the route...
Otherwise, an outstanding climb.
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Location: AZ : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : The Elephant's Trunk (5.7) : Photo
By: James DeRoussel When: Oct 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot at the bottom of the route! That spine of rock that is the bottom of the Elephant's Trunk trails down to the valley. Cool pic.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Tall Wall : Thought's of Strassman And ... (5.8)
By: James DeRoussel When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A well conceived and well protected line with some quite technical moves throughout. I would not recommend this one to anyone who is not pretty solid on 5.8 lead, as a fall in a couple spots could spell trouble.
I had the pleasure of meeting Tony H. out there today. Thanks to TL, TH and AT for all the work out here.
- the chains at top of pitch 2 are the rustiest I have ever seen on a new anchor. What's up with that?
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Incinerated ...
By: James DeRoussel When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: While there is some nice face climbing here, there is also a lot of SLAB :)
Also, there is a fair amount of rockfall due to the new-ness of the area. We wore helmets today and were glad for it. We saw a fair bit of rock (nothing huge) raining down from the large party next to us. Use caution. This issue should resolve quickly as routes get climbed more.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Incinerated ... : Wound2Tight (5.9+)
By: James DeRoussel When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony calls this route vertical face climbing, but it's really more like steep 5.9 slab. Calling it face climbing implies that there are holds. ;)
Getting to the first bolt is a bit hairy, but otherwise it is a well-protected and fun climb. Sustained.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Tall Wall : 7 Year Itch (5.7)
By: James DeRoussel When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great variety of terrain on this climb! The rock was a bit flaky, but will clean up nicely as it gets climbed more. Although most of the climbing is 5.7 or less, some of the slab down low felt harder, approaching 5.8.
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Location: AZ : Chiricahua National Monumen... : Photo
By: James DeRoussel When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "You're no daisy at all!"
-Doc Holiday
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Location: AZ : Silverbell Boulders
By: James DeRoussel When: Aug 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The reason this area doesn't have more activity and bolting is because of a history of access issues.
Please avoid further development in this area, as it will likely lead to complete closure. We are lucky to have any access at all, so just enjoy what's there as it is.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Cochise Dome (WML Dome) : What's My Line? (5.6 A0 R)
By: James DeRoussel When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...and a big thanks to Jerry Cagle for all his anchor upgrade work around southern AZ.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area
By: James DeRoussel When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I haven't heard anything on the "fee" lately, but we hiked through the lake to Munchkinland two weeks ago. I stopped and chatted up the concessionaire employee working the snack stand, and she didn't ask us for any money. Hopefully, this "fee" issue has been laid to rest. If you do get stopped, I recommend a firm but polite refusal.
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Cave : Spider Grind (5.11)
By: James DeRoussel When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook says 5.11. Although it's been over 8 years since I climbed this, I felt it was more like a .10. Nevertheless, I defer to the guidebook and consensus. Rating has been changed.
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Location: AZ : Prescott Area Bouldering : Groom Creek : Main Boulders : The Wave (V0+)
By: James DeRoussel When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun problem, relatively easy but committing.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rappel Rock : Chiboni (5.9+)
By: James DeRoussel When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best slab climbs in Arizona.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rappel Rock : Standard Route (5.6)
By: James DeRoussel When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually like the wide crack Standard Route start. It is a little tenuous and not great pro, but fun climbing, to me anyway. I will however, second Bobby's warning. The stack of loose blocks above the pine tree ledge are scary and should be avoided. All in all a great route.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Nancy's Crack (5.9 PG13)
By: James DeRoussel When: Jun 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This may a be a good one to top rope, which can be done by climbing up the west side of Nancy's Thumb via Ben There Dun That (5.7) or the Regular Route (5.4). If you are looking for a crack to lead, Old Man is a much better choice, right around the corner.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Ben There, Dun That (5.7)
By: James DeRoussel When: Jun 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route name and description have been clarified for accuracy.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Hai Karate (5.7+)
By: James DeRoussel When: Jun 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No stars...I find this route to be boring and contrived. I have never understood its popularity. Not trying to be a drag, but there are lots of other great moderates nearby. You won't miss much by skipping this one.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area : Wall of the Trundling Troll... : Take Apart the Robots (5.8+)
By: James DeRoussel When: Jun 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, in fact I pulled a blue alien! First piece I've ever pulled... Stopper below that held.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Gelsa (5.4)
By: James DeRoussel When: Jun 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a superb climb, perhaps the best in the grade...anywhere. Where else can you climb an overhanging 5.4?
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