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Photo by Pete "Coach" Arndt


Member Since: Apr 17, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact James M Schroeder


Point Rank: # 273
Total Points: 1,909
Last Year: 404
Last 30 Days: 145
68 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
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All (1479) | Routes (52) | Areas (29) | Photos (144) | Comments (234) | Posts (661) | Stars (225) | Ratings (134)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Warm Up 1 (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 6, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Rhoads on this thing's runout between bolts 3 & 4. Not a great route to push your grade on. Solid 5.10a leaders should feel comfortable, but the new 5.9 leader will be gripped between 3 & 4.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : A Red Recollection (5.11a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: Rad! So glad I saved this!

Edit to add:

Gear:
You will pass seven bolts, and the first set of anchors on your way to the upper anchor. So you'll need seven quickdraws (assuming you don't drop one), a shoulder length sling (if you're going to clip the first set of anchors for pro) and whatever you want for the upper anchor.

There were biners to lower from on the upper chains, but they are starting to get a pretty good groove in them, and the quick links that attach the chains are looking a lit... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Warm Up 2 (5.10-)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: A hold (or more specifically a lack of hold) must have broke on this over the winter creating a good hold in the former crux. This thing is now easier than its twin to the right and it is definitely the less run-out feeling of the two as well. Fun, get on it.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Unzipped(aka The Zipper Dir... (5.13 V8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: Cool


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : The Wind Rider (V5)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Looks pretty cool Remo, nice work.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: That's a good week!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: So Doug, would it count as one or two pitches for the Century Challenge?

:-)


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: It seems like doing this in one pitch would create more rope-drag hassle than setting up a belay in the middle.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: The "stats" on this need to be updated to reflect that it's a two-pitch route.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: This thing needs a better description! It's easily one of the top ten routes at the Lake.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Rainy Wednesday Tower : Foreplay (5.5)
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: This thing needs a better description, it's a classic that deserves to be on the ticklist of every visiting leader.


Location: International : Europe : France : Chamonix Valley & Aiguilles... : Chamonix Aiguille : ... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Bomber!


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Cox Hollow : The Waterfall (WI2-3)
By: James M Schroeder When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: This stuff was fat again today, get on it.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Stephens Falls : Orange Peel (WI2-3) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Oh and nice lead Milwaukee guys - hope you like the pic.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Stephens Falls : Orange Peel (WI2-3)
By: James M Schroeder When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Stephen's Falls - So fat right now.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: Sweet, where is that?


Location: WI
By: James M Schroeder When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: CJ - Just send me a message through MP when it gets closer to you getting out here and if I'm around I'll meet up with you guys. As far as guidebooks go, MP has the most up-to-date info available.

Cheers,
James


Location: WI
By: James M Schroeder When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: CJ,

The bouldering at Governor Dodge and Devils Lake is excellent. As far as sport climbing you could check out Grandad's Bluff, Necedah, Hillbilly Hollow or Governor Dodge. Devils Lake is the mecca of toproping and a bunch of webbing with a set of nuts is all you'd need to see you through that.

If you choose Devils Lake or Governor Dodge drop me a line on your way through.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Cox Hollow : The Waterfall (WI2-3)
By: James M Schroeder When: Feb 2, 2014

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Comments: If today was any indication of "normal" the left and right side of this deserve to be listed as distinct lines. The left is longer and lower angled (WI 2 would be 2+ if it was 100ft instead of 30ft and felt like a mini Tempest). The right is shorter, but steeper (WI 2+ would be 3 if it was significantly longer than its 20ft sort of along the lines of a micro Cascade Falls). Either way they were both fun, largely hero ice even at 10 degrees, and well worth the short hike... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Stephens Falls : Orange Peel (WI2-3)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: Super-fat as of 1/31/14 - get on it!


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Stephens Falls
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: I believe the routes listed in this sections as "Stephens Falls" and "Pokey Gonzales Goes Ice Climbing" are the same based on the comments, grades and lengths. The route listed as "Orange Peel" is in fact Stephens Falls proper and the other two are referencing the wall to the climbers right.


Location: WI : Shiprock (a.k.a. Sh*trock) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: Nice!


Location: International : Asia : Pakistan : Baltoro Mustagh : Masherbrum : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: WOW!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : South Bluff - North Face Gu... : Canfield Cut (Manley Creek ... (3rd WI1 Easy Snow)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: I thought this might be a little fatter because of the weather we've had of late, but I was wrong, it's mostly snow covered as of New Year's Day.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Mouse's Misery (5.10a R)
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: Burt, you're right, 5.8 is an exaggeration. 33-year-old me is a little embarassed to look back at 27-year-old me's comments sometimes(this is one of those times). The real question is which is DL 10a - with or without the pockets? My guess is without if we're calling Congrats, Sometimes and Mammalary the benchmarks, and with if Callipigeanous and Big Deal are the benchmarks.

Regardless it's a great route on a unique wall and a fun lead or TR. Anyone who climbs 5.10 at the Lake... more >>


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