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Coffee outside of JTNP


Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact James M Schroeder


Point Rank: # 253
Total Points: 2,234
Last Year: 498
Last 30 Days: 60
76 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1865 | Routes 62 | Areas 29 | Photos 174 | Page Improvements 8 | Comments 285 | Posts 771 | Stars 316 | Ratings 220
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Wyalusing ice : Wyalusing State Park : Big Sand Cave Falls (WI2+)
By: James M Schroeder When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Dang! I knew you were going to find these this weekend. Nice work.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: I guess we're going to need to break down and spray paint some starting zones on the boulder! Should we go with a variety of colors, or different shades of the same? You know, sort of a spectrum of awesomeness...

(I feel obligated to note that I am being massively sarcastic, and would be appalled if this actually happened - god forbid if someone read this comment, thought is was a good idea and actually executed it.)


Location: Adam Burch : Profile Pic : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: You could have made this look way more professional with Excel, thereby taking yourself more seriously and hence exponentially increasing your happiness. Just saying.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Cox Hollow : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: Looks fat!


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: To be clear, I am not saying it should be up to the community to decide. I am saying that it should be up to the individual. If someone wants to climb a V8+, he or she can start with "wide hands" and if that person wants to climb a V11 he or she can start with matched hands. The information about the alternate starts exists already, and, as such people are (and should be) free to start wherever they please.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: I know there is no genuine animosity among you guys, I'm just trying to keep the conversation humorous.

I don't think it is up to the three of you anymore - the decision about which line is better, or more aesthetic, or should be publicly displayed isn't for the three of you to make at this point. The versions have been done, and the information has been put to the public at large, it's out there now, and you can't (not even the three of you can) put the genie back in the bottle.

You guys are ... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: In all seriousness...how does that set a bad precedent? There are two established starts to the "full" problem, and they are of significantly different difficulty. There's no need to censor that information, let the community know that they've both been done and by whom, and then let the individual decide which version (is that more palatable than "variation"?) to do for his or her self. We don't need the competing first ascensionists or the community to set rules on which version people can and... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: Eggs,

I think we should push for the three-way Mike-Peter-Ian cage match to determine the hardest hard-man in the south-central Wisco/northeast Iowa bouldering corridor. You and I could produce the thing, think of the revenue possibilities! Ticket sales, pay-per view, YouTube ads on reruns, t-shirts, action figures, etc. - my gawd we'd be rich!


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: One of my most cherished (for a number of reasons) pieces of climbing memorabilia is an autographed Mark Twight poster, the salutation is this:

Climbing is Anarchy!

I tend to agree with him on that.

No one is trying to diminish what you guys have added in terms of difficulty.

Why not just have an administrator make one route description akin to this:

Cannons Sit/Basilisk V8+

For X you sit-start with hands comfortably apart. X goes at V8+. FA - ABC

An interesting, ... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: I'm not saying the record shouldn't get set straight, I'm just saying all this internet wanking about it seems a little trite. The problem(s) looks cool, I just think we're trying to split the hair really thin here, and marring what looks like an amazing route with the discussion.

Brinton's Crack can be done as a 5.12 if someone wanted to skip holds and/or add moves, anything can be made harder in this way, but that doesn't necessarily qualify it as a new route. If someone finds that to be an e... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: Ha! Yes, I should be, but that will have to wait until Sunday.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: This is exactly the kind of controversy we need! I am so bored, and I just love the drama about an eight-foot tall boulder hiding in the backwoods of southwest Wisconsin. It's almost as if you guys actually believe that it matters who did/does what on this thing that appears to be somewhere around 5-8 grades below the current cutting edge in bouldering.

It looks sweet, it looks hard, it looks fun. I might give it a try from the weenie start someday. But it definitely isn't worth all this drama.... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: Mike, I'm glad you enjoyed it, and respect for pulling it so far above the gear!


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Cox Hollow : The Waterfall (WI2-3)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 27, 2014

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Comments:


Thin to win today!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Leaning Tower : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Great piece of history!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 15, 2014

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Comments: Perfect #3 Camalot upside down in the crack at your feet, with a 48" runner on it to extend over the ledge - bomber! Glad to see you're doing the full-value finish.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Bomber.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Well-done.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Lovely Tower : Lovely Arete (5.11a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: The only place that I felt like I would deck if I blew it was clipping the second bolt, but my opinion is that it would be hard for anyone who could climb to that stance to fall from it. It's a little heady and probably (if barely) deserves the PG13.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks : Unclaimed (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: The horizontal will take a good #0.5 Camalot and/or a marginal #1 Camalot. The runout to the chains is attention getting, but did not feel like a terrible fall.


Location: WI : Redgranite Quarry : Toe Jam Football (V2)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: It's cool to see someone putting up the old Red Granite Quarry. I played around a lot on this stuff back in the late nineties. I think the area was being explored a long time before that, and given that, knowing first-ascent info for any of the problems here might be tough.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Lovely Tower : Lost Innocence (5.12c)
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: It would be great if this route had a little more information.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Balanced Rock (V0)
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments:
>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Box Canyon : Jam Crack (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Short, but some of the best jams at the lake!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: Impressive.


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