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Coffee outside of JTNP


Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact James M Schroeder


Point Rank: # 266
Total Points: 2,083
Last Year: 547
Last 30 Days: 40
73 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1767 | Routes 57 | Areas 29 | Photos 158 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 271 | Posts 716 | Stars 311 | Ratings 219
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Leaning Tower : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: Great piece of history!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 15, 2014

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Comments: Perfect #3 Camalot upside down in the crack at your feet, with a 48" runner on it to extend over the ledge - bomber! Glad to see you're doing the full-value finish.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Bomber.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Well-done.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Lovely Tower : Lovely Arete (5.11a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: The only place that I felt like I would deck if I blew it was clipping the second bolt, but my opinion is that it would be hard for anyone who could climb to that stance to fall from it. It's a little heady and probably (if barely) deserves the PG13.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks : Unclaimed (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: The horizontal will take a good #0.5 Camalot and/or a marginal #1 Camalot. The runout to the chains is attention getting, but did not feel like a terrible fall.


Location: WI : Redgranite Quarry : Toe Jam Football (V1-2)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: It's cool to see someone putting up the old Red Granite Quarry. I played around a lot on this stuff back in the late nineties. I think the area was being explored a long time before that, and given that, knowing first-ascent info for any of the problems here might be tough.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Lovely Tower : Lost Innocence (5.12c)
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: It would be great if this route had a little more information.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Balanced Rock (V0)
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments:
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Box Canyon : Jam Crack (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Short, but some of the best jams at the lake!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: Impressive.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: The gully might speed things up, but I could only see it replacing limited number of raps. If you couldn't belay Peter's and Anemic ladder (and rap 3 times) from an anchor above Peter's it would save a ton, but that anchor is crucial.

Taking the gully down after doing Michael's and Horticulture might make sense, but then you only get two raps out of the rap anchor in the "Dark Corner" area. I think bringing a single 40 meter lead line, and a 30 meter rap line might be a more effective answer. W... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Matthew Clausen and I attempted this on 9/27/14. We got 21 pitches done (ended on Double Overhang) before darkness fell. If we would have had 30 more minutes of light we would have completed the linkup. We just didn't want to do Charybdis in the dark. It was a long day, and we missed some efficiencies, but we'll be better next time.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : The Grotto (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: This thing is much more fun than it appears it is going to be on initial inspection.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: Josh,

I don't think a Hillbilly kegger is a good idea - way too high-profile of an event at a place that should be low-profile.

I'm also not sure the place needs convenience anchors at the top of every single line. The sport routes makes sense to me, and those that overlap with sport routes.

I do like some of the ideas for new lines though.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: I'd be happy to lend my drill to a "Hillbilly Hollow Retro/Re-Bolt Session" - I think while the leaves are still up is good, because they will drown out the noise and we don't need to call any unnecessary attention to ourselves.

My five-minute brainstorm of potential projects:
  • Finish Swiss Cheese/Generation Gap Anchor Improvement (Just needs new chains and quick-links, and the old bolt pulled and patched)
  • Add an anchor to and Retro Turkish Revenge
  • Add an anchor to and Retro Booze Pigs
  • Repla...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : The Great Crack (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: I wish that was the case Paul, but I wimped out and took a hang on Track Cracks earlier in that same day.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : The Great Crack (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Ha! I figured I'd have to defend the 1 star - I almost gave it a bomb.

10 feet of 5.4 + 20 feet of 4th class + 20 feet of 5.6 offwidth + 30 feet of chunky 5.2 < 4 stars -- at least in my opinion.

Some people might consider this route worth the bushwhacking adventure required to find it, but I do not. There are several better 5.6 routes in the park with better approaches, better and more consistent climbing, as well as better position and aesthetics. I'd much rather climb [[105... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : The Great Crack (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: I'm with Mike, a #4 Camalot is nice. It's definitely 5.6, but it's a grovel (arm-barring in a dihedral) to make it 5.6. The route is long, but the actual climbing isn't. Lost Face, Brinton's, Full-Stop and Berkeley are all more fun at the grade and have more actual climbing. That said, if you've done those, you should probably make the hike to this thing.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Blinded by Lust (5.11+)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: Not to kick the hornet's nest too hard here, but I want to make folks aware of an issue with this route. I was up top and saw the chains for this route, they looked like they were in a potentially loose piece of stone. I went over to bang on the flake they're in, and it sounded hollow to me - I'm not sure if this is a recent development or not. Anyway, if you're thinking about jumping on this thing, you might want to check out the chains situation before you commit to them.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : Swiss Cheese (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: I'm in the process of updating/replacing the anchors on Swiss Cheese. They were beginning to look pretty manky and I'm pretty sure those chains were there in '98 or '99 when I first climbed here. I left them in usable condition when I left Saturday, but I want to yank the old bolt, patch the hole, update the chains/hardware and camouflage the the whole setup. It's a work in progress - so at least wait until it's done to flame me for it.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Bowling Alley- aka Durrance... (5.5 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: This didn't feel remotely PG13 to me...


Location: Midwest : New trail markers at Devil'... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: I have noticed those too, only I did not see the numbers. I am guessing they are to help locate lost hikers, or waypoints for some sort of race.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Critical View : Dykes Next Door (5.11-)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: The new base makes the 5.11 crux right off the ground, but it's still an honest 5.11 move followed by easier climbing.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Critical View : Critical View (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: The new "base" makes it just a move of 5.8 to get off the ground (pulling on the sloper), followed by easier climbing above.


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