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Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact James M Schroeder

James M Schroeder
is a member of
Point Rank: # 251
Total Points: 2,325
Last Year: 385
Last 30 Days: 62
76 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1977 | Routes 65 | Areas 29 | Photos 175 | Page Improvements 16 | Comments 317 | Posts 794 | Stars 340 | Ratings 241
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Wiessner Chimney (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Mandatory hand jam on a 5.4? It's easier than the mandatory jam(s) on Brinton's Crack but it's at least as hard as the climbing on Foreplay.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Porkchop Buttress : Jacob's Ladder (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Doug sums it up nicely.


Location: Burt Lindquist : I hold their ropes.... they... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: Makes sense, it looked unfamiliar...


Location: Burt Lindquist : I hold their ropes.... they... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Where is Gully Dwarf?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : D'Arcy's Buttress : The Grand Traverse (5.8 R) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Yep, my bad, fixed!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Brother Without a Brain (5.11a)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Surprisingly enjoyable for a squeeze job.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Epiphany (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: Once, as a young climber and before I knew the area (ca. 1998-99), I attempted this route thinking it was Charybdis - a (perhaps exceptionally) rude awakening ensued. I lowered off a single nut, and quickly retreated with my tail between my legs - to-date I've yet to return.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : ABM (5.11b)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone know the history of this route's name? Or what the acronym is short for? I've always been curious.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Cannabis Sativa (5.8 R)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: I could totally see that - "X" might be closer to the mark than "R".


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Dances with FIBs (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Wandering, awkward, and sharp - there are many better routes at the park...many.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Split Decision (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: If this finishes in the hanging dihedral up top, then 5.7 is not even in the ballpark, for that matter 5.9 isn't even in the ballpark.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Rosemary's Baby (5.12b)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Height definitely helps on this one.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: I'm up for trying...the summer solstice is coming up soon.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: I'm not sure what the record is, but 28 would have to be close. I've been trying to goad a partner into 100 routes in 48 hours (a weekend), been told it's impossible - I don't agree. If 50 in a day is possible, 100 in 2 days ought to be in the realm...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Birch Tree Crack (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: This is definitely one of the best 5.8 leads in the park. Great gear available, with an easily-protected yet sharp and distinct crux that leads to fun splitter climbing above. An absolute must-do for the 5.8 leader at Devil's Lake.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : White Wall : Aku Aku (5.7 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Yikes!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Axiom of Arete Aesthetics (V7)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Maybe should start adding "Q" grades to problems in SW Wisconsin based on how questionable they are.

For Example:
The Little Flatiron (V4 Q0)
AAA (V7 Q5)
Cannons (V6-V11 Q10)



Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : The Brig
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Climbed here last weekend for a bit - this place still needs traffic! The routes are good, don't let them sand over into obscurity. Bring your brush and do your part.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : The Brig : Schlickery When Wet (5.10a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: This is the easiest of the three bolted lines here.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Sunny Side : Black Hearted Woman (5.10)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Fun, with a definite (and reachy) crux surrounded by easier climbing. Being fairly well-bolted this didn't live up to Mill Creek's sparsely-bolted reputation...its neighbor to the right Magic Carpet Ride more than makes up for it in that department though.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: This place is great, we were there on Saturday and Sunday during the last week of Jeep Week, and we saw nary a soul.


Location: WI : M
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Looking much better!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : East Bluff Linkups : Noble Arches (5.8 PG13)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Glad you enjoyed it!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments:



Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Thoroughfare (5.11a) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: With the way that block he's yarding on with his left hand rattles, it's amazing it's still there. Did it rattle like that back then?


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