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Rapping off of South Six Shooter.


Member Since: May 16, 2012
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 168 | Routes | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 61 | Stars 59 | Ratings 24

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Dutch Oven (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: I have no idea what the person above is talking about, this isn't greasy at all. In fact, I lost skin in the crack at the bulge due to the grittiness of the rock, and the holds leading up to it are super positive. Not the greatest route, but it's a fun little warm-up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Verschneidung (5.7)
By: James Hicks When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Fun route! Despite a couple of the comments here, I didn't notice any greasy feeling sections at all. There is a stuck can about halfway up the handcrack that doesn't appear to be going anywhere anytime soon, but a couple of the cables are busted, so I'm not sure how much I would really trust it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Cornered, straight up varia... (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: I managed to get a red C3 stuck right around the cruxy bit. I tried to get it out on rappel, but it thwarted all of my efforts. If someone gets it out, I would be willing to meet up and trade some beers for it, but it is in there quite solidly. So, in the mean time, there is a solid piece of gear that you clip as you pull over the flake/roof!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.8+)
By: James Hicks When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route! One of the best at the grade I have climbed in BC. For a bit of beta, I used a small nut and a #1 C3 (#0 would work as well) to protect the crack up to the first bolt. Personally, I wouldn't listen to the folks saying you don't need gear. I would think of it more as a trad protected start instead of simply a high first bolt. A fall before the bolt would be bad news. An earlier comment shows what can happen. The crack takes great gear, so why not use it?! Most people d... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Pueblo Gringos (5.10b/c)
By: James Hicks When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Great climb! There are couple greasy footholds, but they're really not all that bad considering how bomber almost every hand hold is. Super fun!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : Dr. Seuss Wall : Leftist Tendencies (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: The anchors for this route are a bit suspect. The bolts are fine but there are two ancient carabiners in the end of the chains. They are opposed at least, but they are rusty and only one of them is weighted of you attempt to rap off of them.

The route itself is awkward, contrived, and not a 5.9. Felt much more in the low to mid 10 range, and the bolting makes it even more awkward and sketch. Be aware that you can't see the anchors from the last bolt either.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls
By: James Hicks When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: According to the FS website Sitting Bull Falls is currently closed due to flood damage.

fs.usda.gov/recarea/lincoln/re...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Hold The Line (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: The chockstone at the crux is still there, and it doesn't feel loose at all. It might go one day, but it doesn't at all appear imminent. Fun route, nice and slabby in spots.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Sun Spot (5.7)
By: James Hicks When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: I led this the other day with nothing larger than a #2, and it seemed quite comfortable that way. A couple big cams would make placing gear a bit more straightforward, but I wouldn't say they are required. I also stuck a pink tri-cam in about halfway.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Flags of Our Fathers (5.9+)
By: James Hicks When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: I should have paid closer attention to the route description.... Got up it with no gear, and it's doable that way, not that I can recommend anyone do it though. Just make sure and keep your wits about you, because a fall before clipping the first bolt or while below the second bolt could be quite bad without any gear in the crack. It's not super difficult, but it does get a bit thin.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Lost World Butte : Pearly Gates (5.5 C1)
By: James Hicks When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Just be aware that there is pretty much zero gear on the second pitch until you get to the belay ledge below the bolt ladder.

Also, there is now a bolt on the first pitch. It looked pretty new and shiny, although I'm not sure of the purpose since its in an area of super easy climbing (walking). The rap is still a pain, but I'm not sure there is really a way to make it any better. You might want to bring some long webbing if you head up, the rap anchor looked good but some of it was definitely... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Bullwinkle Tower : West Chimney (5.6)
By: James Hicks When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: The anchor may be getting worse. We climbed it a couple weeks ago. As mentioned before, the anchor is down to two bolts. One of the bolts is quite loose. I hand tightened it as best I could, but it won't be long before its gone. The other bolt seems tight for now. There was some cord tied around a solid boulder to back up the rap.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Finger Flatiron : East Face/Finger Flatiron (5.4)
By: James Hicks When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: "It's only 5.4 right?"...beware the Roach 5.4, it is not always as it seems ;)

In all seriousness, it's a really fun climb but seemed tougher than most if not all the 5.4s I have climbed in the Flatirons. We did it in 2 long pitches and one short pitch (with a 60m rope). The Finger Flatiron contains quite a bit more loose/crumbly rock than I have seen on most Flatirons as well. You definitely need to exercise care as to not bean the hikers below.

P1 - Another guidebook calls the star... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Nickels and Dimes (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: The anchors could use some attention. The rings are fine, but the links that are at the end of the chains are in poor shape. Don't top rope off the links until they're replaced. Doing so risks getting your rope cut. Setting a top rope off of the bolts is still fine, and the rap rings are fine as well.

Honestly I'm not sure what anyone uses those links for, considering how easy it is to build an anchor from the bolts.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Steve's Wild Turkey Day (5.7)
By: James Hicks When: Sep 24, 2013

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Comments: Was climbing here yesterday (9/23), and there was one other party there who left some gear behind. Message me if you want it back.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : 1000' of Fun (5.6)
By: James Hicks When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Great climb! For what its worth I just slung both ropes during the raps and fed them out on the way down. Made life a lot easier and gets rid of the pain of getting the ropes down the low angle slab.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : Planetary Alignment (5.7)
By: James Hicks When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: Strenuous is putting in nicely in regards to the chimney on the first pitch. Be ready to grunt and squeeze your way up this thing. The second pitch is a lot of fun, just be ready for a chimney of the squeeze variety to get there. And be careful pulling your ropes after the rap. We got our ropes stuck, unstuck, and then stuck again. And then pulled a rather large flake off once we got the ropes free.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Brand New Bosch (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Fun route, and it makes the short hike up a little more worth it when climbed with Edges and Ledges. As mentioned before, there are a few loose rocks on this one, the loose rock near the last bolt appears to still be there and is currently marked. There are some loose rocks to the right as you move up towards the anchors as well, but they are pretty easy to avoid.

I did have a hold blow on me though right at the first bolt. It wasn't really on route per se, but I imagine I'm not the o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Edges and Ledges (5.8)
By: James Hicks When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: This is a fun climb and one of the best 5.8 climbs I have come across in BC. I was just there yesterday, and the poison ivy is just starting to leaf out. So it would probably be safe for a bit longer, but you could see that once its in full bloom it would be EVERYWHERE in the immediate area. In reference to the comment above, I'm not sure why you would belay from the first bolt, that seems needless since there is an obvious belay spot at the bottom of the route. This can safely be done with a 6... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Pink Wall : Renounce Action (5.10a)
By: James Hicks When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday and had another hold break off just above the second bolt. The moves to get to the roof feel harder than low 5.10 to me. I think the holds that were originally in the middle section of the route must have broken off, because it's really thin until you reach the roof and definitely not 9+ as the guidebook states. The move to pull the roof is fun, but getting there isn't all that enjoyable.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Night Moves (5.7)
By: James Hicks When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: Honestly I'm not sure why this is listed as a mixed route. Placing gear here for any purpose other than practice seems a bit excessive. There is a bolt on top of the ledge halfway up that can be reached before pulling up on top of the ledge if you feel you need more protection. I carried gear up it and never felt it was necessary to place it.