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Rapping off of South Six Shooter.


Member Since: May 16, 2012
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 239 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 67 | Stars 103 | Ratings 39
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Interiors- Escalante Canyon

Interiors- Escalante Canyon

James Hicks : Climbing and such

Jun 16, 2015

Pouring down rain outside, nice and dry inside.

Pouring down rain outside, nice and dry inside.

CO : Grand Junction Area : ... : Interiors (5.9-)

Jun 16, 2015

Climbing the chimney on Guanica on the Lefthand Wa...

Climbing the chimney on Guanica on the Lefthand Wall at Mt. Lemmon.

James Hicks : Climbing and such

Apr 22, 2013

Rapping off of South Six Shooter.

Rapping off of South Six Shooter.

James Hicks : Climbing and such

Apr 22, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Grand Mesa : Land's End Area : Paleosol Wall : Flat Rock Flight (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Another fun, moderate climb up on the mesa. This would be a great route for someone breaking into 5.9 on trad, it takes great gear from solid stances.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Grand Mesa : Land's End Area : Paleosol Wall : Xenolith (5.10c)
By: James Hicks When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Not sure how to grade or rate this route, I just now it felt really hard for 10c. I could be a weenie but I think it falls somewhere around the 11a range. I won't add my rating though since I couldn't do much but hang my way through the crux. Not a bad route at all, in fact it definitely has fun moves, just hard moves.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Grand Mesa : Land's End Area : Paleosol Wall : Day Old Mackerel (5.10a/b)
By: James Hicks When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Great little route. The crux is between the green C3 placement and the second bolt, with positive holds a great pocket to get you through. WAY easier than its neighbor Xenolith.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Grand Mesa : Land's End Area : Kaleidoscope Wall : The Pika Strikes Back (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Fun route! The bolting was well done, comfy clips and they are right where you need them. The one spot for gear below the crux takes a bomber 0.4 Camalot.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Grand Mesa : Land's End Area : Kaleidoscope Wall : The Mess (5.8+)
By: James Hicks When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: I am not sure I climbed the start as it appears in the pic, I started down and right of the overhang and traversed under it on ridiculously positive holds before heading up to the left of the overhang. I think I used a red C3 and fished in a nut in the small crack and another nut up to the left of the overhang before pulling up onto the ledge. The move up onto the ledge definitely felt tricky for the grade, but the gear is bomber. The crack up top could use some cleaning (I would have if I had t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Dutch Oven (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: I have no idea what the person above is talking about, this isn't greasy at all. In fact, I lost skin in the crack at the bulge due to the grittiness of the rock, and the holds leading up to it are super positive. Not the greatest route, but it's a fun little warm-up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Verschneidung Dihedral (5.7)
By: James Hicks When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Fun route! Despite a couple of the comments here, I didn't notice any greasy feeling sections at all. There is a stuck can about halfway up the handcrack that doesn't appear to be going anywhere anytime soon, but a couple of the cables are busted, so I'm not sure how much I would really trust it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Cornered, straight up varia... (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: I managed to get a red C3 stuck right around the cruxy bit. I tried to get it out on rappel, but it thwarted all of my efforts. If someone gets it out, I would be willing to meet up and trade some beers for it, but it is in there quite solidly. So, in the mean time, there is a solid piece of gear that you clip as you pull over the flake/roof!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.8+)
By: James Hicks When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route! One of the best at the grade I have climbed in BC. For a bit of beta, I used a small nut and a #1 C3 (#0 would work as well) to protect the crack up to the first bolt. Personally, I wouldn't listen to the folks saying you don't need gear. I would think of it more as a trad protected start instead of simply a high first bolt. A fall before the bolt would be bad news. An earlier comment shows what can happen. The crack takes great gear, so why not use it?! Most people d... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Pueblo Gringos (5.10b/c)
By: James Hicks When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Great climb! There are couple greasy footholds, but they're really not all that bad considering how bomber almost every hand hold is. Super fun!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : Dr. Seuss Wall : Leftist Tendencies (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: The anchors for this route are a bit suspect. The bolts are fine but there are two ancient carabiners in the end of the chains. They are opposed at least, but they are rusty and only one of them is weighted of you attempt to rap off of them.

The route itself is awkward, contrived, and not a 5.9. Felt much more in the low to mid 10 range, and the bolting makes it even more awkward and sketch. Be aware that you can't see the anchors from the last bolt either.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls
By: James Hicks When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: According to the FS website Sitting Bull Falls is currently closed due to flood damage.

fs.usda.gov/recarea/lincoln/re...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Hold The Line (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: The chockstone at the crux is still there, and it doesn't feel loose at all. It might go one day, but it doesn't at all appear imminent. Fun route, nice and slabby in spots.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Sun Spot (5.7)
By: James Hicks When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: I led this the other day with nothing larger than a #2, and it seemed quite comfortable that way. A couple big cams would make placing gear a bit more straightforward, but I wouldn't say they are required. I also stuck a pink tri-cam in about halfway.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Flags of Our Fathers (5.9+)
By: James Hicks When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: I should have paid closer attention to the route description.... Got up it with no gear, and it's doable that way, not that I can recommend anyone do it though. Just make sure and keep your wits about you, because a fall before clipping the first bolt or while below the second bolt could be quite bad without any gear in the crack. It's not super difficult, but it does get a bit thin.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Lost World Butte : Pearly Gates (5.5 C1)
By: James Hicks When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Just be aware that there is pretty much zero gear on the second pitch until you get to the belay ledge below the bolt ladder.

Also, there is now a bolt on the first pitch. It looked pretty new and shiny, although I'm not sure of the purpose since its in an area of super easy climbing (walking). The rap is still a pain, but I'm not sure there is really a way to make it any better. You might want to bring some long webbing if you head up, the rap anchor looked good but some of it was definitely... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Bullwinkle Tower : West Chimney (5.6)
By: James Hicks When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: The anchor may be getting worse. We climbed it a couple weeks ago. As mentioned before, the anchor is down to two bolts. One of the bolts is quite loose. I hand tightened it as best I could, but it won't be long before its gone. The other bolt seems tight for now. There was some cord tied around a solid boulder to back up the rap.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Finger Flatiron : East Face/Finger Flatiron (5.4)
By: James Hicks When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: "It's only 5.4 right?"...beware the Roach 5.4, it is not always as it seems ;)

In all seriousness, it's a really fun climb but seemed tougher than most if not all the 5.4s I have climbed in the Flatirons. We did it in 2 long pitches and one short pitch (with a 60m rope). The Finger Flatiron contains quite a bit more loose/crumbly rock than I have seen on most Flatirons as well. You definitely need to exercise care as to not bean the hikers below.

P1 - Another guidebook calls the star... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Nickels and Dimes (5.9)
By: James Hicks When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: The anchors could use some attention. The rings are fine, but the links that are at the end of the chains are in poor shape. Don't top rope off the links until they're replaced. Doing so risks getting your rope cut. Setting a top rope off of the bolts is still fine, and the rap rings are fine as well.

Honestly I'm not sure what anyone uses those links for, considering how easy it is to build an anchor from the bolts.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Steve's Wild Turkey Day (5.7)
By: James Hicks When: Sep 24, 2013

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Comments: Was climbing here yesterday (9/23), and there was one other party there who left some gear behind. Message me if you want it back.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : 1000' of Fun (5.6)
By: James Hicks When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Great climb! For what its worth I just slung both ropes during the raps and fed them out on the way down. Made life a lot easier and gets rid of the pain of getting the ropes down the low angle slab.


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