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Member Since: Jun 1, 2005
Last Visit: Jan 14, 2015
Contact James Garrett


Point Rank: # 93
Total Points: 4,322
Last Year: 288
Last 30 Days: 140
74 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James Garrett been climbing?










Contributions


All 1396 | Routes 163 | Areas 77 | Photos 248 | Page Improvements | Comments 297 | Posts 181 | Stars 413 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Ibex : Steamboat Pass : Through the Never (5.9) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Nice shot! Thanks!


Location: International : Africa : Namibia : Spitzkoppe and Pontoks
By: James Garrett When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: This place has been way too under reported. Think City of Rocks but on a way larger "big wall" scale. Two tiny sentences to describe this place and very recently at that, is nothing more than an insult to phenomenal climbing and better potential. Camping is exceptional with great facilities nestled in the rocks. The most recent guidebook seems to be nowhere to be found, and I cling to a 90s copy I can't remember anymore where was obtained.

The drive from Windhoek is comparable to Moab from Salt... more >>


Location: International : Africa : Ethiopia : Armora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Tenish Tenish (5.10)
By: James Garrett When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: TT is the most well protected route on the crag and is a sport route. The continuation above on SR is not a true trad climb by definition as it was also rap drilled. Due to a scarcity of bolt availability, however, you would be advised to place some gear here or there. I doubt if anything here was actually put up from the ground making it a true "trad climb". An evolving definition, i guess. Nice place to escape Addis and feel abit of the countryside!!:):)


Location: International : Asia : Jordan : Wadi Rum
By: James Garrett When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: Tony Howard and his guidebooks are definitively biased on the side of super strict trad climbing. Many excellent modern bolt protected multipitch classics submitted to him for inclusion have been lost to obscurity and only available word of mouth. A new up to date modern guide may be in the works, so please consider getting the word out to other sources:)!! Jordan has so much climbing and it certainly is NOT restricted to Wadi Rum, which is like saying castle Valley is the only climbing in Moab!... more >>


Location: International : Africa : Ethiopia : Armora Gedel (Addis Ababa)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: The rock tossing comment is meant for any climbers visiting that are new to the area and not fluent in Amaric as Nico is. Rocks are more common than once in 2+ years, for sure, unfortunately.


Location: International : Africa : Ethiopia : Armora Gedel (Addis Ababa)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 15, 2014

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Comments: It is crimp city on vegetated and licheny holds on generally sound basalt. The approach is longer than 15 minutes and it is crucial to take along some locals who will dissuade the cute kids from tossing rocks off the top. Don't even think about climbing here without a helmet unless you have someone on top controlling the rock toss competition by local kids. Though this is addis ababa, this is "out in the country side" compared to Addis. Expect extremely sporty bolt spacing.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow Wall : Comment : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: Bravo John:)!! Strong work, wish I could have been there to help out!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag
By: James Garrett When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: The 4 or five popular routes on the West end of Dogwood Crag have had their top anchors retrofitted. In some cases, old worn Rap Leeper hangers had deep grooves and then had been equipped with chain which in turn seemed scary thin. All chain was removed and rings were secured on glue in bolts. Should be good to go for a few generations, I should think:)


Location: UT : Ibex : Snakeskin Buttress : Snakeskin (5.9+)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: Pitch #2 Rappel Anchor retrofitted October 2014. Pulls no problem.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: The rotten huge tree lying useless in the gully was truly impressive! A new glue in rappel anchor was installed to replace it. Additional added improvements to a fun route on an excellent colorful Fall day. No gerry rigging needed to rappel the entire route with ONE 70m rope.

Did some trail maintenance to the pretty overgrown trail. Hopefully it is easier to find. Thanks to whoever added the needed supports to the rickety bridge! It is so nice now.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : James Tower AKA The Lightbl... (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Wow, Burr quality:)!


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow Wall
By: James Garrett When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: The recent roadside grid bolted routes by Dan McCann and friends in this area do pose a threat to future route developers on both public and private lands. The routes themselves are pretty fun. Long strands of unpainted bright silver chain and unpainted hangers are not viewed kindly by either land managers or other climbers. Would someone please take it upon themselves to make these anchors more invisible? I know alot of cleaning and work went into these routes, which I applaud, but pre-painting... more >>


Location: MT : The Heap
By: James Garrett When: Sep 13, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing. Many bolts found loose, were tightened and a few manky spinners pulled, patched, and replaced. Nice Montana rock!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: Good question! Then again, why did they let go of the rappel ropes? It is a cool photo, but their have always been a few things going on wrong in it, too:)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Yes, this was the original "annual reunion" or "cult" tower. My condolences to Jimmy. Our oceans are swelling, our towers are collapsing.


Location: MN : Rock climbs : Ely's Peak (Duluth) : Waking Up In Duluth (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: I guess i was being a cynic as when we were climbing in Duluth, everyone kept talking about "set ups" in referring to "top rope set ups". This route can be comfortably led with a light rack and some quickdraws:):):). Did you do it, then?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Pale Fire (5.12b)
By: James Garrett When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: The FA of Moses (1972) was via this route by Eric Bjornstad and Fred Beckey. Both were in Moab recently (Memorial wend 2014) and this retrofit and some of the old pulled bolts they had taken turns hand drilling were handed over to them as a gesture of good will. Both were genuinely excited about the interest in Moses and updating the route with new hardware. Eric is 80 this year and Fred (92) made a special trip last week from Seattle to visit him in the Care Center in Moab near the Hospital and... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : North Summit : Valhallelujah! (5.8 R)
By: James Garrett When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: Scramble up and over the ridge crest and then rapping the Great Chimney is possible. That's what we did.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Beckey's Wall (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: nice little video of Fred if anyone is interested
Probably appeared on other sites as well…...

alpinfieber.net/fred-beckey-89...


Location: UT : Ibex : Quartermoon Tower : East Face : Eagle Terrace (5.10b)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: The First Ascent was climbed by Kelly and Josee MacLeod from Canmore Alberta, Canada in April 2003 and they called it "Eagle Terrace", 5.10b. Climbed ground up. It is an excellent route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Errors of Our Ways (5.6)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Would whoever is adding bolts and retrofitting anchors to numerous routes in the Storm Mountain area please call or write me? Thank you.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : A Modest Man from Mandrake (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Top anchors retrofitted with Glue In bolts. Bolt #5 replaced. Thanks in advance to all who TR on their own equipment/locking carabiners.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Witches : Wicked Witch (5.9+) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: The belayer really should never stand here directly beneath the leader. Not a good idea especially without a helmet!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Climbed it with my wife Franziska a few days ago and had the typical grand desert adventure. Our choosing August is another story, but I fondly recalled the first time I climbed the route with Bobby Rotert in the early 80's and how he seemed to just fly up all that wideness without anything bigger than an old #4 Friend!

For all you Booty Hunters out there, we got a #6 (Quality booty!!!) stuck right next to the Bolt. Franziska worked it for quite some time and said it did some walkin... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : Something Wicked This Way C... (5.9 A2+)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: Definitely,
Doug was special and will be missed beyond many of our years.


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