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Location: UT : Ibex : Quartermoon Tower : North Face : Quarter Inch from Falling (5.11c)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: With Sandro von Känel, and because "he doesn't know how to climb cracks" :)...to avoid the wide section he blazed up the steep bolt-less face to the right. Exciting to witness. Some wide gear would certainly still be on my lead rack for this pumpy pitch.
New top side refreshment container replaced deteriorating one that was sans cap. Thanks to previous mystery visitor's offering.
Trash and broken bottles removed from Corral Crags and Wolfenstein campsites. All in all, thanks to everybody, the ... more >>
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Location: UT : Ibex : Syringe : Adrenaline Junkies (5.11)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Retrofitted upper belay station and removed some old fixed US Army pitons. 3 x 1/2" x 3.5" Hilti bolts placed. Chain replacing old tat. Protects quite well otherwise.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom Direct Variation (5.7 R)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: So Crisco, where should one learn how to belay?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Anvil : Pounding Herradura (5.10a)
By: James Garrett When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry about the confusion!
First of all, I love the Mascot on top....way cool. We need more of that kind of stuff on desert tower tops.
As for Hx of the route, Christopher W Donharl (aka The Harl-19yo at the time!) and I had spent quite a bit of the January 2000 there in Valley Of The Gods while on the road trip of road trips on our way to El Potrero (where we had pounded more than a little of the Herradura, btw). In March, he decided to stay on longer and I returned to the roadside chunk of roc... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Anvil : Pounding Herradura (5.10a) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jan 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like Pounding Herradura? Great photos!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Anvil : Pounding Herradura (5.10a) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jan 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love it!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Memorial Day Buttress : Dave Anderson Memorial Rout... (5.8+ A2- PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Jan 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave,
We are all still hanging with you. Having dinner with Leif and Lindi and other loved ones tonight. 15 years ago, tonight...since you started climbing on the "infinite wall". You must be climbing an OW somewhere!
Love you, man.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Family Butte
By: James Garrett When: Nov 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A Rock Climbing Guidebook written by Moab local Eric Bjornstad in 1997 offers quite a bit of history actually. All six towers have had names for at least since the early 90s. The summit registers probably were insecurely attached and have since blown away is my best guess.
Alien Child and The Daughter, p 244-245 (both named after Franziska who was at the time a "Registered Alien Green Card holder" and who had recently lost her Father (Swiss Gentleman, p244) to an accident in Switzerland) and S... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : Take Me To The River (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this to be the route where this past spring I retrofitted the two very rusty and scary spinner "top rope" bolts with massively bomber "u" type glue in Fixe bolts. I don't recall noticing any fixed anchors on the route, however, though debatable, this may be the most high traffic top rope climb in the Wasatch. It is reasonably well protected with gear on lead.
TR away!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work Lisa.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Santaquin Canyon : Strawberry Fields Wall
By: James Garrett When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Isn't this the same wall as Santaqueen Wall as mentioned elsewhere?
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Grimsel : Gelmerfluh : Sagittarius (5.10b/c)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is mega classic. I only wish it had a separate rap line perhaps off to the right as it can suffer from serious traffic jams. Very consistent route and every pitch is awesome. Jürg von Känel also deserves mention as the driving force on the FA and equipping the line.
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland
By: James Garrett When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The latest Plaisir West, Plaisir Selection, and Swiss Extreme West are all translated into English. The Plaisir Ost will also soon be available as a second updated edition and also in English.
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Furka Pass : Galengrat : Galengrat-verschneidung 5c (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Though this is included in all of the more recent Plaisir guidebooks tot the area, due to global warming glacier recession, the first pitch (which before was under ice) is harder than 5.9. The route remains a classic for position, crack climbing, and outstanding views of the entire Berner Oberland. Rock quality similar to the best in the Winds.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One right size 41 "5.10" brand (not sure of model) climbing shoe was found at the base of Black Streak (looks like it wintered there?). You are welcome to email me and we can arrange you getting it back.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Witches : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jul 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kris Pietryga and I also climbed this being a bit surprised to find the one protection bolt in place. We found no anchors on top and figured a simul rap down opposite sides of this formation would surely have shredded our ropes on this type of rock. We installed the descent anchors at that time. We are not aware of any other history?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Hyperform Wall : Bladerunner (5.10d)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kurt asked me to comment further on this route. I repeated Bladerunner a number of times in the 90s when I used to go up to LPC probably as much as somebody like Shingo does these days! Well, Maybe not SO often!! The number of pitons I placed on the route and my affinity for the Harrison Ford movie of the same name prompted the naming of the route.
Of course, these pitons may be suspect today as well as the hand drilled 1/4" bolts. Back then, after free climbing it, I gave it a 5.10d rating as... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Expanding Man (5.9-)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gee Kurt!::)) Franziska and I had such an adventure on this thing years ago I had to "one-star" you up. Yes, the flowers! Don't think we will ever forget the joy of attaining the top out on EM. The stemming alone is unique. Thanks for the memories!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge
By: James Garrett When: Jun 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I read the same account as many of you also did of the horrific accident and suspected anchor failure here that occurred sometime late yesterday. I still don't know anything really about the accident, what happened, or what the full nature of the injury was. I wish the victim an uncomplicated and speedy recovery.
While we climbed the route no evidence of rock fall, rock scars, anchor failure, or anything that would have indicated an accident the day before was noted. I waited in line to climb. E... more >>
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Location: UT : Ibex : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jun 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Deer in Headlights Stare?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : I Ran To Afghanistan (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: May 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I, too, went back and climbed the route recently, did a bit more cleaning, and made a point of using a different 70m rope and used a good amount of tie-in to boot. I lowered and again both ends of my rope were not only touching the ground, but at least a foot from each end was lying on the ground. So, my two different 70m ropes had plenty to spare.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Witches
By: James Garrett When: May 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kris Pietryga and I also climbed this after spotting the single bolt. After arriving on top, we found no anchors. We placed the two-bolt anchor to rappel down. Other history unknown.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Cracked Egg (5.11c)
By: James Garrett When: May 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, you may drop the A0, though it might need to get done by admin as I am not sure how to do it when I go to edit? Strong work John!
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Location: UT : Ibex : South Corridor : Holey Moley Wall : Rollercoaster (5.12d)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Crusher for pointing out the discrepancy. It is actually longer than 18m. I am so poor at judging pitch lengths!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: James Garrett When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dennis,
It has been way too long, good to hear you are doing well! Welcome to the jungle............
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