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Member Since: Jun 1, 2005
Last Visit: 42 mins ago
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James Garrett
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Total Points: 4,495
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1440 | Routes 171 | Areas 78 | Photos 262 | Page Improvements | Comments 305 | Posts 182 | Stars 425 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Salem's Lot (5.10c)
By: James Garrett When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Thanks for bringing to our attention anything that appears out of the ordinary or perhaps unsafe. I do, however, recall when I installed this anchor that it looked like it tilted a bit downward immediately after placing it. Nature of the rock? As for the "cracking" in the glue on the surface of the glue in, not sure. Does it wiggle or is it loose? That bolt is long and I would bet it is super bomber UNLESS the rock around it has become unstable? If anyone else can add any more info on the status... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers : Johnny Hanksville of Mars (5.11a)
By: James Garrett When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Yes, silly perhaps and no doubt a bigger adventure for my belayers who never left the ground...and yes, "Johnny" could have been climbed in the same style as the original obscure not repeated aid climb with its only two bolts in the most rotten summit capstone imaginable...but it wasn't.


Location: International : Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Chigger Yellem (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: How many of the local kids have Camalots and trad gear to protect? :):)...consider, bolts....it is a sport crag anyway....:) look forward to climbing it, thanks Nico


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Very prudent:):):) I would bet most people on this forum don't even know what bashies are....


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Assembly Hall Peak : Heavy Metal (5.10 C0)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Hi Sarah,
Franziska Garrett and I did the FA of Heavy Metal more than 23 years ago on 22 October 1992 on one of her many birthday climbs.

I can understand your confusion as per bolt count and aid rating, but I have always tried to immediately report the most accurate rating for how I actually climbed the route. That said, many of the routes then and more recently end up with an aid rating attachment. The styles usually evolve and metamorphose greatly between the FA on lead/equipping/cleaning/ ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: It is Fred Beckey! They took his Washington Drivers License away from him, so he is hanging out on the granite....


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak
By: James Garrett When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: Congratulations and kudos to Niels Tietze and Mason Earle who did the First (known) Winter Ascent of the complete lower and upper North Face of Notch Peak in one day. IMHO the most bad ass climb that probably anyone will do in Utah this year! The two Utah locals connected Western Hardman and La Fin du Monde on one cold day 8 January 2015. Thanks for relating the adventure:)!!


Location: UT : Ibex : Shadow Buttress : Made in the Shade (5.11a)
By: James Garrett When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: It seems almost sad, however, and not continue up the great pitches on In The Shadow Of the Jihad Certainly one of the best routes in the area. Keep going! QDs are enough


Location: UT : Ibex : Steamboat Pass : Through the Never (5.9) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Nice shot! Thanks!


Location: International : Africa : Namibia : Spitzkoppe and Pontoks
By: James Garrett When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: This place has been way too under reported. Think City of Rocks but on a way larger "big wall" scale. Two tiny sentences to describe this place and very recently at that, is nothing more than an insult to phenomenal climbing and better potential. Camping is exceptional with great facilities nestled in the rocks. The most recent guidebook seems to be nowhere to be found, and I cling to a 90s copy I can't remember anymore where was obtained.

The drive from Windhoek is comparable to Moab from Salt... more >>


Location: International : Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Tenish Tenish (5.10)
By: James Garrett When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: TT is the most well protected route on the crag and is a sport route. The continuation above on SR is not a true trad climb by definition as it was also rap drilled. Due to a scarcity of bolt availability, however, you would be advised to place some gear here or there. I doubt if anything here was actually put up from the ground making it a true "trad climb". An evolving definition, i guess. Nice place to escape Addis and feel abit of the countryside!!:):)


Location: International : Asia : Jordan : Wadi Rum
By: James Garrett When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: Tony Howard and his guidebooks are definitively biased on the side of super strict trad climbing. Many excellent modern bolt protected multipitch classics submitted to him for inclusion have been lost to obscurity and only available word of mouth. A new up to date modern guide may be in the works, so please consider getting the word out to other sources:)!! Jordan has so much climbing and it certainly is NOT restricted to Wadi Rum, which is like saying castle Valley is the only climbing in Moab!... more >>


Location: International : Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: The rock tossing comment is meant for any climbers visiting that are new to the area and not fluent in Amaric as Nico is. Rocks are more common than once in 2+ years, for sure, unfortunately.


Location: International : Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 15, 2014

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Comments: It is crimp city on vegetated and licheny holds on generally sound basalt. The approach is longer than 15 minutes and it is crucial to take along some locals who will dissuade the cute kids from tossing rocks off the top. Don't even think about climbing here without a helmet unless you have someone on top controlling the rock toss competition by local kids. Though this is addis ababa, this is "out in the country side" compared to Addis. Expect extremely sporty bolt spacing.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow : Bear Hollow Wall : Comment : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: Bravo John:)!! Strong work, wish I could have been there to help out!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag
By: James Garrett When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: The 4 or five popular routes on the West end of Dogwood Crag have had their top anchors retrofitted. In some cases, old worn Rap Leeper hangers had deep grooves and then had been equipped with chain which in turn seemed scary thin. All chain was removed and rings were secured on glue in bolts. Should be good to go for a few generations, I should think:)


Location: UT : Ibex : Snakeskin Buttress : Snakeskin (5.9+)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: Pitch #2 Rappel Anchor retrofitted October 2014. Pulls no problem.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: The rotten huge tree lying useless in the gully was truly impressive! A new glue in rappel anchor was installed to replace it. Additional added improvements to a fun route on an excellent colorful Fall day. No gerry rigging needed to rappel the entire route with ONE 70m rope.

Did some trail maintenance to the pretty overgrown trail. Hopefully it is easier to find. Thanks to whoever added the needed supports to the rickety bridge! It is so nice now.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : James Tower AKA The Lightbl... (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Wow, Burr quality:)!


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow : Bear Hollow Wall
By: James Garrett When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: The recent roadside grid bolted routes by Dan McCann and friends in this area do pose a threat to future route developers on both public and private lands. The routes themselves are pretty fun. Long strands of unpainted bright silver chain and unpainted hangers are not viewed kindly by either land managers or other climbers. Would someone please take it upon themselves to make these anchors more invisible? I know alot of cleaning and work went into these routes, which I applaud, but pre-painting... more >>


Location: MT : The Heap
By: James Garrett When: Sep 13, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing. Many bolts found loose, were tightened and a few manky spinners pulled, patched, and replaced. Nice Montana rock!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: Good question! Then again, why did they let go of the rappel ropes? It is a cool photo, but their have always been a few things going on wrong in it, too:)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R)
By: James Garrett When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Yes, this was the original "annual reunion" or "cult" tower. My condolences to Jimmy. Our oceans are swelling, our towers are collapsing.


Location: MN : Ely's Peak (Duluth) : Waking Up In Duluth (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: I guess i was being a cynic as when we were climbing in Duluth, everyone kept talking about "set ups" in referring to "top rope set ups". This route can be comfortably led with a light rack and some quickdraws:):):). Did you do it, then?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Pale Fire (5.12b)
By: James Garrett When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: The FA of Moses (1972) was via this route by Eric Bjornstad and Fred Beckey. Both were in Moab recently (Memorial wend 2014) and this retrofit and some of the old pulled bolts they had taken turns hand drilling were handed over to them as a gesture of good will. Both were genuinely excited about the interest in Moses and updating the route with new hardware. Eric is 80 this year and Fred (92) made a special trip last week from Seattle to visit him in the Care Center in Moab near the Hospital and... more >>


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