Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Oct 19, 2001
Last Visit: Jul 16, 2003
Contact James Balasalle


Point Rank: # 2,909
Total Points: 168
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James Balasalle been climbing?










Contributions


All 77 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts | Stars 22 | Ratings 10

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Catacomb : The Mausoleum (5.9-)
By: James Balasalle When: Jul 16, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: A good route to climb after climbing "Gravestone" to its right. Didn't think it was quite 5.9- though. More like 5.8/5.8+. The holds are big, really big. There's huge feet the whole way. I thought it was a lot more straightforward than Gravestone, but maybe a little bit more pumpy/strenuous.

If you're a solid 5.8 leader or breaking into 5.9, this route should present you with no problems. The holds at the bottom are big. And the stance to clip the first bolt is great.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Catacomb : Gravestone (5.7)
By: James Balasalle When: Jul 16, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I'll third the notion. Harder than 5.7. I thought it was almost as hard as the route to it's left, "The Mausoleum," which is rated 5.9-. A fun route nonetheless. There is some variation in the moves too. Decent ledges down low, and pebble pinching up top. I found this a good route to practice movement and fluidity... Which is good, cause I need the practice.

Not 5.7...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : The Steeple (5.8)
By: James Balasalle When: Jul 16, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: This is a good route. It's LONG though. Rapping off used almost all of our 60M rope. I felt it to be the same climbing almost the whole way up. I kept thinking to myself "Am I there yet?" and "Didn't I just do this move?"

I wouldn't make the hike just for this climb...


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.8+)
By: James Balasalle When: Jul 16, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: This really is a good climb. Interesting moves on the first pitch. I felt the crux to be a roof/bulge about 2/3 the way up the first pitch. Slabby, smeary stuff on the second. When you're on the second pitch, you have a great view of the other climbs on Dream Dome. They look pretty sweet...

I agree with Jeff and Jay... leave the cams. I took a light rack of cams and didn't place a single one. You can put 2 stoppers in to protect the bottom finger crack if you want. Those were the only p... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: James Balasalle When: Jul 16, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great climb. Climbed it on 6/23/03, and conditions were great. Good snow down low, and ice up high. We roped up for almost the whole climb, so it took us a while. Although, we simul-climbed a decent amount above the Flying Buttress. Which, was where I felt the crux was.

Also, I felt this was a great first alpine/ice lead (it was for me). I was able to protect the whole thing with rock gear. I felt pretty secure, most of the way up. It was a little insecure up higher were there... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: James Balasalle When: Jul 16, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Couple comments about the 1st pitch. It *is* hard. Hardest 5.9 I've done in Eldo. I thought it was quite a bit harder than Emerald City for instance. Also, Jay is right: taking a big fall is quite the possibility. But it's a good fall. And the bolt before the pin works just fine, believe me.

The moves above the first bolt are so deceiving. There looks like there's a monstrous foot hold just under the pin. But when you make the move, you're not really in a position to step on it.

Also,... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Whistle Stop (5.9-)
By: James Balasalle When: Jun 9, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: This is a surprisingly good climb. Also, it doesn't look like it sees much traffic. We found the moves after the initial ramp interesting and fun. The crux is short and well protected by a bolt. New 5.9 leaders or someone looking to get into the grade would most likely feel right at home here. Just protect the second at the top, like Leo and Ivan say. Well worth doing...

Rossiter calls it 5.9- which I thought was pretty close. Though it's more delicate/technical than powerful.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq...
By: James Balasalle When: Jun 9, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: The rock band at the top of the Loft is no longer climbable without a rope. I tried going up to the far right and couldn't make it with crampons and a mountaineering axe. Ice tools would have been very helpful... It's pretty mixed right now.

I made it about 15' up the rock band before turning back, and downclimbing was harder than going up....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock
By: James Balasalle When: Jun 1, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Tried to get here on 5/30/03... Didn't happen. The traverse isn't there, and the creek is raging. Wading the creek seemed pretty much un-doable, as the water looked to be at about class II-III whitewater. This was a bummer because there was NO-ONE there... wonder why.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Emerald City (5.9)
By: James Balasalle When: May 8, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Another good route, in a good area. We climbed this after doing Over and Out. I thought the 5.9 rating was right now. Maybe a hard 5.9... but a 9. I thought the crux came down low, but my partner thought it was at the top...

This is another fun climb. the moves are interesting and different. Gear is good. Lots of places for some sweet footwork. The top gets kinda thin, but it's not as steep as the bottom.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over and Out (5.8)
By: James Balasalle When: May 8, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: This is a really good route. The gear is all there and it is very interesting. We climbed the dihedral to the left of the last pitch of Over the Hill. I thought there were some moves on that pitch that were a little harder than 5.8 (especially the first pitch). But the gear is good at these points, so it's not that much of a problem. The upper dihedral pitch is great pitch... varied moves and I thought they were decently thought-provoking. Also the double cracks at the top of the first pit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Heavy Weather (5.9)
By: James Balasalle When: Apr 15, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great climb. Lots of varied climbing. The crux on the first pitch is thin and smeary, but not steep. The second pitch is very interesting with some weird dihedral stuff, and a great, angling finger crack that you can't really get your feet in. The third pitch is a sweet fist crack with some great, full-on arm jams. And the last pitch is short but pretty cool.

I thought P2 was the crux of the climb. It is also pretty sustained once you get around the weird dihedral craziness. Ros... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Positively Fourth Street (5.10a)
By: James Balasalle When: Apr 15, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Just like the gym: big holds, slightly overhaning (in parts), and pretty pumpy. Great gear. I agree with Crusher, not too many rests (least I couldn't find 'em). I fell seconding it, so it'll be a while before I lead it...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Chianti (5.8+)
By: James Balasalle When: Apr 15, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I agree. A great route. Not too long and any easy rap descent. Could be done at the end of the day, or as a "warm-up" for other climbs in the area. I thought the first few moves of the first pitch were thought-provoking but the whole pitch was pretty straightforward. The second pitch looks pretty henious from the belay, but isn't so bad once you get up to it. The crux is pretty short and well protected... I placed a nut at the bottom and a cam (#1 friend maybe??) in the great finger ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : N.I.C (5.5)
By: James Balasalle When: Nov 20, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed, good climb. Good gear the whole way for beginning leaders. Good belay anchors up top as well.

Just needs to be longer.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: James Balasalle When: Nov 20, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I tried leading this climb 3 weeks ago. There's a fixed stopper about 25 feet above the large block. After moving above this stopper, I was unable to get a good piece of pro in. The crack there is kinda weird and I didn't want to go higher without a piece. So, after fiddling with gear for way to long, I fell on the fixed stopper. I was unable to get the climb that day.

I just went back and tried it again this weekend. The gear is better above that fixed stopper, I just didn't go up high e... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Water Slabs : Mary Lynn's Slab (5.9)
By: James Balasalle When: Oct 12, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: This is kind of a weird route. The first part is thin and fun. Staying more to the right can make it much harder. Then you make that "right hand turn" when you reach the upper arete. This upper arete is also pretty fun. Climbing right on the arete is a tad airy.

I don't remember this being as hard as some of the other climbs in the canyon. For instance, Mes Amis.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Vanishing Point : Werner's Legacy (5.8)
By: James Balasalle When: Oct 12, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great beginner lead, at the grade of course. It's well protected, and slightly airy near the edge of an arete. It wasn't spectacular, nor did it have any particularly noteworthy moves on it, but it was still fun. The hands can be a little thin, but there's wicked good feet the whole way.

One note on finding the thing: Rossiter describes this as being on a rib that comes out of the water. This climb is probably about 50 yards up the hill from the water.

I don't remember there bei... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Dr. Michael Solar (5.7)
By: James Balasalle When: Sep 30, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this was a fun route and my first Eldo 5.7 lead. I even took a lead fall (I know, I suck), but the pro is amazing, so it was fine. Defintely a good place to start leading 5.7's. And it's even vertical for a while.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: James Balasalle When: Sep 30, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I really liked this climb. I thought the traverse at the bottom would have to be poweful and favor albatross-like people as well. But after closer inspection i was able to put my right foot high up near the hand traverse and push off that (like Ernie described above). This helped me a lot.

I can't wait to lead this one too....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: James Balasalle When: Sep 30, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with everyone, the first pitch is a really great climb. The pitch is varied, interesting and fairly sustained. The protection at the bottom of the route looked a little bit sketchy, although I didn't lead the route. But I thought the harder, upper moves were well protected. I really look forwared to leading this pitch.

I think the first pitch is rated 8+ in Rossiter's guide, and I would say that's right on.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Washington Irving (5.6)
By: James Balasalle When: Sep 23, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I agree. A great climb for the beginning Eldo leader. It was my first Eldo lead. Protecting the first bulge is a tad tricky, but definitely doable. There are two sets of [bolts] at the top that you can used to rap off, or top rope [The Unsaid].


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: James Balasalle When: Sep 22, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Did this climb this weekend, and last weekend. Haven't done much climbing in Eldo yet, but this climb is by far my favorite. The first time I climbed it we did the Great Zot start, and the second time we did the Rewritten start. I would have to agree with the other comments saying that the Great Zot is a much better start. It's harder but better protected. [The protection on the rewritten start ISN'T awful but] it's no way near as good as the Great Zot start.

Also, on pitch 4 after doing t... more >>