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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hangdog Cafe : Crank Du Jour (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an anti-classic, sketchy first clip; really bad rock; scrunched, painful, awkward crux; and a huge loose block you have to stand on to clip anchors. I'd give it negative stars if I could. Blood Monkey is significantly better.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hangdog Cafe : Blood Monkey (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 12b for sure nice route.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Jackpot (5.11d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: May 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great line up a nice headwall. Either way is legit, straight up felt way hard for 12b I think at least 12c. If you cut left, it's mid-5.11. Not sure were the 5.10 rating is coming from, maybe Leo is a Gunks or Eldo climber. Even so, mid-11 is on par with other routes in Clear Creek.
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Blue Fin (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Mar 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is cleaning up nicely and after the second bolt the rock quality drastically improves overall a good route.
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : XL Puff Sneaker (5.11d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: U guys are not correct
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : The Curse (of the Furry Bea... (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 11c would be an old school rating but for the new school of grading were 5.15 exists and all new crags are graded by, 12a for sure. The crux moves are a v3 or 4 boulder problem with technical moves. Great rock on this one for sure.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Institutional Meat (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is good, but the anchors need replacement. Both are very loose, and and the whole bolt is pulling out of wall on right one. Use caution at the anchors.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering : Pleasure By Ambush (V6-7)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem is very contrived if you start left hand on the better of the two edges then right hand on crimpy undercling 6 inches right of left hand crimp and then pull on, this problem feels much easier than V6 and is more enjoyable this way.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchy Rules (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 11d, I call BS. The useless anonymous coward strikes again for the downgrade. Even in ELDO!!! this route would be 12-, in Boulder Canyon 12d. in the Gunks 9+, Red River Gorge 12c. Downgraders be damned!!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Upper Y Traverse : Upper Y Traverse (V3)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bouldering at Flag is all about contrived hard moves, "don't grab that jug in front of yer face, use the half pad crimp, then it's truly V4 not V0 with the jug" or "the V2 rating only appplies if you climb it one handed". Bouldering is game of contrivances: how hard can I pull two inches off the ground and what amazing holds will I avoid to create my 2 move V10 lowball masterpiece, and then when someone repeats it, I can inform them how all the good holds are off if you use the good holds it's o... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : ... : Culo De Negra (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is potentially the best climb i have ever done in any style or grade. Absolutely amazing climbing up wild blue rock and crazy tufas.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Piles of Trials (5.12b/c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Nov 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is super good, you must do the dyno. It's amazing and may be one of the sickest moves I've done on a Boulder area climb. Also, maybe it's just me, but I stuck the dyno my first try but could not link the moves after, and they are turning out to be the crux for me. Anyone have beta they want to share?
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two anchors on this climb, does this route stop at the first or second anchors?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : The Girlfriend Traverse (V4)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know what the problem is that goes right to left and finishes around the arete?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Golden Rose (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jul 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitively 12a, no doubt about it, but every route in Boulder Canyon has to be downgraded by someone.
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Blucifer (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Mar 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is AMAZING it is the best route i have ever been on it is so sick get on it if you have'nt, it will blow your mind
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