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Member Since: Oct 30, 2002
Last Visit: Jan 13, 2012
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 625 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 62 | Posts 560 | Stars 2 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Calling all Colorado Ice Cl...
By: jack roberts When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: How big would this ice park be? How many routes would be established and how many climbers could all climb at the same time? I have no idea about how large this facility might be.


Location: CO : Calling all Colorado Ice Cl...
By: jack roberts When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: This might be a good idea or it might just have a negative impact on the sport. If you increase the number of participants without increasing proportionally the resources that will be needed to accommodate the increase in numbers of climbers, then the new wall just creates more problems. Not saying this is a bad idea, just one that requires careful planning. There is a ton of ice out there if people are willing to walk further than 30 minutes....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island I
By: jack roberts When: Sep 2, 2011

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Comments: It should be noted that this crag was first developed about 20 years ago as a DRYTOOLING practice area. Several of the top rope anchors were placed for this purpose....

People should not freak out if climbers show up with crampons and ice tools and begin using these tools on the rock.... Rock climbing is a secondary sport here.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dominator (5.10c)
By: jack roberts When: Jun 24, 2010

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Comments: Actually the last bolt is still there with the nut on it, the hanger is what is missing.

When we climbed it on June 24th, 2010, you could slip a thin wired stopper over the nut and between the rock and bolt so that the last few moves could be protected. Seems silly that the last bolt is unclippable since there are eight bolts on the route.

Either chop it or don't...A GREAT climb!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Ah Maw (5.10a PG13)
By: jack roberts When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: On June 3, 2010, Michele Beaty and I did what might be either a new route or a combination of routes to the top of the 4th Elephant Buttress.

We began climbing 15 feet to the right of the start for Monster Woman. It was unprotected but moderate in difficulty up a right-facing dihedral, and I could place a good cam. A bit further I clipped an old 3/4 angle piton with a broken eye. From here, I went straight up through corners and discontinuous cracks and flakes until I got to a spot where I h... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Nob Job (5.10d X)
By: jack roberts When: May 31, 2010

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Comments: Come on you guys. This route is pretty tame by today's standards..........

I'm just glad it has not been bolted...............there is a story............


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: jack roberts When: May 31, 2010

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Comments: Just saw this.

Frank Trummel was my partner on the FA. Glad people are still enjoying it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.10a/b)
By: jack roberts When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Did this route just yesterday (may 9th, 2010).

The only wet spot was crossing the pendulum pitch. We stayed pretty dry. The waterfall is boiling but where you have to cross it there is an obvious crack that you can climb even when wet. We could place adequate protection and the rest of the way was a hoot and dry.

The rappel down can be done with one 70m rope.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : The Thang aka Frigid Insemi... (WI5+ M5+ R)
By: jack roberts When: Mar 19, 2010

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Comments: This route was first led by Paul Sibley and Steve Pomerance around 1985. Paul aided the first three bolts and then finished the rest free. Steve followed it free. Don't know who did the first free ascent on lead.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Aberrant Behavior aka LoweK... (WI6+ M7)
By: jack roberts When: Mar 19, 2010

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Comments: I'm pretty sure that Alex did this route about one day before Jeff.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Log-Jammin' (WI3-4 M4-5 R)
By: jack roberts When: Mar 19, 2010

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Comments: "Log-Jammin'", is the original name given to it by Paul Sibley and Steve Pomerance who did the FA.

Any other name is just make-believe....


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Boxed In (aka Stemcicle) (WI5- M6+)
By: jack roberts When: Mar 19, 2010

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Comments: This route was first climbed in 1996 by Charlie Fowler and his partner, named Stephan. Instead of the two bolts that have just recently been placed three pitons were fixed (later two) and left in place.

The original name given by Charlie, which I feel should still be honored, is "BOXED IN".


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice
By: jack roberts When: Mar 5, 2010

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Comments: For those interested........

I was in Vail climbing March 2-5, and there have been some changes since I was last there on Feb. 26.

The Fang now has a crack at the bottom of the column as well as at the top. There seems to be some melting occuring now on the cone as well.

Secret Probation is conpletely covered by new ice. There is a sheet of ice from Spiral Staircase rightwards.

Abberant Behavior and the curtain in between that and Rigid Designator completely fell down on March 2. Lots of ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons : East Face Left Side aka Pin... (WI3 M5 R)
By: jack roberts When: Feb 19, 2010

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Comments: This route has been climbed as and named as East Face Left Side.
First known ascent was by Bob Culp and partner 40 years ago. The name Pink Dreams is incorrect and should be stricken from the records........


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons : East Face Gully aka Silk Ro... (WI3 M5 R)
By: jack roberts When: Feb 19, 2010

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Comments: As George stated, this route has been known for over 50 years as the East Face Gully NOT Silk Road. It is wrong and incorrect to assign another name for this route just because it has also been climbed as an ice/mixed route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Direct West Face a/k/a West... (5.11b)
By: jack roberts When: Oct 23, 2009

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Comments: Dougald and I did this route today and we confirm the 4star quality rating. This is the best route that has been placed since the bolt ban went into effect. A climb which has tremendous exposure, exceptional rock quality and combines sustained fingery and balance climbing with the occasional thuggish move. We broke this up into two pitches. A #3 and #2 Camalot would be perfect for the belay.

Thanks to all the first ascentionists for doing such a fine job.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: jack roberts When: Sep 11, 2009

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Comments: Paul Gagner and I did this route yesterday (Sept.10, 2009) and were grateful for the hard work that Eli put in replacing the crux pitons and putting in BIG new bolts. Makes the route much safer than the older bolts.

This route can easily be done in five 60m pitches. We had a 70m rope and probably, had we not forgotten most of our slings and left them at home, could have done it in four pitches. AN AWESOME ROUTE!!!

The walk off down the East Ledges descent route was very quick....


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake - West Gully (WI4)
By: jack roberts When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Went up again to All-Mixed-Up today (Nov. 18) and BOY! has it changed up there in the past two days. Lots of melting and not much freezing. A lot of the ice that was there a week ago has disappeared and not even left a wet spot it is so warm.

AMU itself is still standing but just barely. If you go up, take more rock gear than usual. We got in a few good screws but the ice on the overlaps is just about history. The approach is easier as a result of all the melting.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Notchtop & vicinity
By: jack roberts When: Nov 16, 2008

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Comments: Just for people's information.

A friend and I went and climbed the NE Face of Notch-Top yesterday (saturday, Nov. 15) and found it in a very climbable condition.

The lower snow basin condition seemed very stable and firm all the way down to the rock. The snow has been POUNDED by the wind so we didn't sink in further than ankle deep. It felt very safe.

The ice on the first band is for sure the crux and is interesting mixed climbing sparsely protected with medium and small cams. The middle s... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
By: jack roberts When: Nov 13, 2008

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Comments: As of today (November 13, 2008) I've updated the ice report on my website, jackrobertsclimbing.com. Sorry it took me so long.
I'll be quicker to react from now on.

IF anyone has ideas, suggestions or updates please let me know so I can keep this report current and informative.
Thanks.

JACK


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Water Line (5.11a)
By: jack roberts When: Oct 5, 2008

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Comments: Did this route today. It looks like it needs a good scrubbing, and probably it would help the route quality by at least one star if it was a bit cleaner; however, it has some very good moves on it and the pro is very good up until the bolt after the bolt there really isn't any protection but the climbing (if you go right just after the bolt) kicks wayyyyy back to easy 5th. Maybe more like 5.10d than 5.11a. Go left and the climbing is more scruffy and harder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: jack roberts When: Jun 14, 2008

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Comments: Buzz,

I think you've been climbing in the gym too much. This route is no more difficult that 5.8, even by today's standards. Maybe you are making the entry move from the roof onto the face above in a difficult place but grading this climb 5.9 is way off.


Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: jack roberts When: Apr 22, 2008

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Comments: I vote NO.

The newly established mountain bike trail by Doudy Draw is a total wreck.
I've been using this trail for over 15 years as a hiker and most hikers and equestrians have always backed-off from using it when it was too wet, muddy and in such a state where the erosion that would be caused outweighed the recreational fun to be had. Not so with mountain bikers.
It seems that the muddier the trail the greater the number of bikers that need to ride the trail regardless of the erosion caused.... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed
By: jack roberts When: Mar 3, 2008

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Comments: CONDITION REPORT:

For those lost souls like myself who just must climb ice until the end.
I'm in Telluride at the moment and this is what I know.

Silver Pick is IN at WI4 and looking good. We punched a trail in.
Coronet is gone, gone, gone.
Bridalveil is looking fat and there is so much snow at the bottom the first pitch is practically buried.
Ames Ice Hose is totally in shape. Again, the first pitch is really buried under snow from above but the rest of the climb is in thick shape.

Gravity... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : The Fang (WI5-6)
By: jack roberts When: Feb 10, 2008

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Comments: For those who are interested. As of yesterday, Feb. 9, 2008 ice conditions in Vail are very good. The Fang is thick and getting climbed at solid WI5. The Seventh Tentacle is thick and totally connected from the ground up. The RD is chopped-out and beat-up. Many of the other routes such as Octopussy, Somnambulist, Resurrection are also in good shape. Booth Creek is looking good with a boot path already beaten-in.

I'll update the conditions pagge on my site later today. I know, I've been a... more >>


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