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Location: UT : Lake Powell : Photo
By: J. Thompson When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: It was fairly rotten. The Heucos were big enough jugs that it didn't matter.
josh
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Location: UT : Lake Powell : Photo
By: J. Thompson When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Near the upper left head corner of this photo you can see the bottom of a huge hueco. It's about 25-30 ft up and big enough to stand on/in...that's where i ended my ascent. The wall is pretty rotten, but very steep and the heucos are jugs....making for a very fun climb above DEEP water.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Pipe Route (5.10+ R)
By: J. Thompson When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right on, Dan.
I was quite confused....
I know I won't do it again!
josh
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Great Googly Moogly : Great Googly Moogly (5.10+)
By: J. Thompson When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I gave this 3 stars...but thats a fisher free climbing rating...a very fun free route in the fishers.
josh
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Sundial Dihedral (5.11b C1)
By: J. Thompson When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a very fun route.
I did not try to free the second pitch, but it looks great.
Also I can't call the hands pitch 5.11..certainly not 5.11b.
I thought it to be 5.10c...maybe d. This pitch is awesome.
The 5th pitch is more like 5.10a and also very good. I found a very good blind nut to protect the crux moves.
josh
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Photo
By: J. Thompson When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The water running down the rock has worn ripples into the sandstone...
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Warm Up Crack (5.8)
By: J. Thompson When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really fun, really short climb!
josh
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : The Paiute Wall : Paiute Wall: Original Rou... (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: J. Thompson When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If approaching from above you'd know the route was wet before commiting to dropping into the canyon.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Lu... (5.11- R)
By: J. Thompson When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "You will pass by a bolt at the beginning of the traverse (unknown abandoned route?!)"
Raises hand....that was me. I too envisioned a route going up and through those roofs....that bolt was the belay for my first pitch. I abandoned the project....
Anyway this route is now at the top of my list...anyone want to go with me soon?
Good stuff, boys!
josh
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b) : Photo
By: J. Thompson When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: JIM!
Your mom stands on the rope!
You and me Crack of fear this fall?
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Location: J. Thompson : New route. : Photo
By: J. Thompson When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shawn...it's in the Chicago lakes area of Mount Evans, just north of the Black wall. In an area called the "tan butts"
I was cleaning this route:
http://mountainproject.com/v/colorado/alpine_rock/mt_evans/1>>>>>
josh
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttress's : Musafar's Home Cookin' (5.9)
By: J. Thompson When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an extremely eye catching line.
Good stuff boys!looking forward to climbing it!
josh
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttress's : Fallen Angel (5.11+)
By: J. Thompson When: Aug 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name of this route, like its neighbor " Noth'n but a good time" comes from the songs of the same titles by the 1980's hair band Poison. Yes I like them, yes you can laugh.
But the name has taken on another meaning to me as 2009 has been such a terrible year for the loss of great climbers.
I want to raise a glass for:
Jonny Copp
Micah Dash
Wade Johnson
Bruce Hildebrand
John Bachar
Craig Luebben
Gentlemen, thank you.
josh
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttress's : Noth'N But a Good Time (5.10+ R)
By: J. Thompson When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left-facing, flared dihedral of pitch 4 reminded me of the crux pitch above the wide pitch on The Cruise (not Scenic) in the Black Canyon.
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Location: J. Thompson : New route. : Photo
By: J. Thompson When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This may end up being part of a different route....need to add a first pitch.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Buffalo Wall
By: J. Thompson When: Jul 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Buffalo soldiers was freed like what...2 years ago?
I think The OG just went this year...with some major variations...I think????? Can someone confirm?
Also I'm fairly certain that the true line of Tatanka won't be freed. Some of those bolt ladders are both blank and steep. I know it has been rappelled by the free climbing crew, apparently they think it could be done but would with MAJOR variations.
I'd love to be proven wrong!
josh
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Kick in the Balls (5.8)
By: J. Thompson When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good to know. It's been quite awhile since I did this climb. I didn't remember anything loose...but memories fade and things change. Thanks for posting!
josh
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Kick in the Balls (5.8)
By: J. Thompson When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris....Roof that caps the chimney? I'm confused....it's been awhile but I don't remember a roof?
josh
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Escape (5.8)
By: J. Thompson When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To reiterate: this route is an alternate, and more fun, way to get off the Comic Relief buttress.
I'm not exactly sure who did it first...but Kent Wheeler and Jim Howe told me about it....maybe it was them?
An interesting and scenic end to the day!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: J. Thompson When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 felt 5.11- to me....every other pitch the rating seemed right on. I didn't think the 4th pitch was all that runout.
Also as stated above....you can link pitch 3 and 4 with a 60M. However you need a couple of cams in the .75 camalot range, at least. I ended up pulling up the tagg line and using it as a very long cordelette to the rap anchor.
Also I went right side in on pitch 2...it worked well.
I reread the comments above and wanted to add another note about pitch 1. i didn't think the... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : The Three Penguins : Right Chimney (5.10+)
By: J. Thompson When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found both pitchs to be 5.10a....and quite good!
josh
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : The Gooney Bird : Tea Party (5.10+ PG13)
By: J. Thompson When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route can be easily rapped with 1 70M rope. Use every anchor.
A very fun route.
josh
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Black Sun (5.10b)
By: J. Thompson When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed this route and I thought it was a very high quality route and alot of fun to climb.
Couple of things though......
I thought both pitch #2 and #4 were more like 5.9. They had short defined crux's @ 5.9 with the rest of the climbing checking in around 5.8.
I Found the crux pitch to be more like 5.9+ and I thought the crux was with in the first 20 ft of the belay. The slot was not 5.10.
An excellent option if KI is packed.
josh
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Fast Draw (5.10)
By: J. Thompson When: Apr 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So this "good news"...I have a qeustion....the bolts that were chopped were some of these placed on the FA(and then later replaced with modern bolts)?
I understand and support the removal of retro bolts....but chopping the ones from the FA(regardless of condition) is not "good news".
It sounds like this climb would have been an excellent candidate for leaving the original bolts, in their orginal condition, for histories sake.
josh
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : The Paiute Wall : Paiute Wall: Original Rou... (5.10a/b)
By: J. Thompson When: Apr 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congrats on the second ascent!
Sorry your plan for the day didn't work out.
That chimney variation you did on the second pitch is crazy!
josh
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