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Member Since: Jun 26, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact j wharton


Point Rank: # 1,538
Total Points: 372
Last Year: 89
Last 30 Days: 11
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All (82) | Routes (27) | Areas (5) | Photos (1) | Comments (22) | Posts | Stars (27) | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Overlook : Brenda from Kansas (5.13b)
By: j wharton When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: If you start sitting way down and left, there is a cool, gaston boulder problem to link into the original start of BFK. (Bring a pad to protect this part.) Not perfect rock, but really cool athletic movement. Probably adds a letter/or V-grade to the route. One of my favorite "mini" routes in B-Canyon. With a lot of pads and fresh knees, it would be pretty reasonable to just boulder this route out.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Alberta Falls Wall
By: j wharton When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: This is a great area for Scottish style winter climbing. It's quite protected from the wind; we've experienced pleasant climbing days when gusts were forecast to be in the 60mph range. It has a really quick, obvious approach; maybe 30-40 minutes, and it's right above the summer tourist trail. Finally, it has a few easier routes with actual ice, some harder dry tooling trad lines, and potential for more. I suspect early in the fall or later in the spring there may even be some... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Rusty Cage (M7 PG13)
By: j wharton When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: The Roberts' guide mistakenly labels this as Walk The Line. SH and and I spoke with Jeff Lowe in person, and he assured us his route (which he actually call Snowblind Friend was farther to the left). This is a nice route, that clearly took a fair bit of work--thanks Steves! Jim Turner and I climbed the route last week and had a great time. I'd echo HK's comments. Don't expect a safe outing, but the bolts keep it reasonable.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : Silhouette (WI6+ M9 R)
By: j wharton When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this route today (1/3/14) with mixed master Stanley. He onsighted the crux pitch, which was a really nice effort. Despite shivering my way up the crux, I truly enjoyed myself. I think this is one of the best mixed pitches I've done in Colorado! It's also a testament to just how much cooler mixed climbing is when there are widgets rather than bolts involved! Hats off to Ben and Will!

Judging by Ben's photos, It looks like it has a little more ice in places and a little less in others. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Extendogap (5.12c R)
By: j wharton When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: Matt,

Nice Work! Cool to see somebody repeat this route, and a nice look back at the days when I was into the Eldo headpoint game. Looking at your video, it looks like the beta I used way back when, so I don't think anything has broken as the guidebook suggests. I've seen a few people toprope this line...Sonnie, Segal, etc...but to my knowledge, I don't know of anybody else that's led it. Of course in the Boulder area this is always a very sketchy assumption! Also Segal's route Smart Went Crazy... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Chaos Canyon : Chaos Creek : Shaqtoolik (M6+)
By: j wharton When: Mar 10, 2013

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Comments: This is a nice little route with a quick approach. Thanks for posting it, Matt and Andy! The first pitch seemed like well protected M6-ish climbing, although we had the benefit of a very sunny day, which let us hand jam without issue. The second pitch (maybe M5-ish) is a bit heads up, especially with the ledge so close below. A piton, or beak, might be nice, and would make the pitch safe. There's potential for a very hard, steep, trad protected M-route just to the left of this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Universal Crag : Palm Pilot (5.13d)
By: j wharton When: Feb 23, 2013

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Comments: This is a surprisingly fun route with only one (albeit egregious) chipped hold. Definitely worthwhile if you're looking for a power-endurance 8b in a nice, quiet setting.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
By: j wharton When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: Here's a video with footage from Bullet (left version) and the last pitch of Englishman's on a nice day. Enjoy!




Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Elephant In The Room (5.13+)
By: j wharton When: Nov 15, 2012

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Comments: Really fun climbing, and unlike the typical Boulder Canyon fare, it's not a heinous one-mover. I think it's somewhere in the .13b/c range, but it's always hard to say for sure. Great "find" by Josh as the route sits right next to the uber-popular Vasodilator. Lazy bottom feeders (like myself) are indebted to all the guys like Josh out there developing quality new routes!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Schoolmaster (5.10 A0 PG13)
By: j wharton When: Apr 14, 2012

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Comments: Mike Pennings and I free climbed this route at .12+. Crux pitch involves two height dependent boulder problems seperated by a no-hands rest on a diving board feature. The second crux is the harder of the two. Pretty damn fun route, and a nice alternative when your fingers hurt at just the thought of actual Indian Creek climbing!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Dry Ice (WI5 M9)
By: j wharton When: Dec 17, 2011

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Comments: This is a cool route that adds some more climbing in the Deep Freeze Cirque, making it easier to stomach the approach for Deep Freeze's single pitch crux. The roof looks improbable from below but has reasonable feet and gear with one longish pull. I'm guessing this thing was very hard with leashes--nice job, FA team!--but the difficulty is much reduced without them, so don't hesitate to give it a try! Cheers.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Full House (5.12)
By: j wharton When: Aug 20, 2011

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Comments: Bryan Gilmore and I climbed most of this route yesterday. We bailed at Table roof, because things were completely drenched from there up. Despite Joel and Scott's comments, I would echo Marc's feeling that this is an excellent route. Sure there's some flakiness around, but generally the rock is as good, or better, than what is normally found on the right side of the Diamond. I managed to link pitches 3 and 4 to avoid the new bolted belay. This seemed pretty reasonable, although you need plenty o... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Dunn Westbay (5.10 C3)
By: j wharton When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: Adam's mistaken, the route was not free climbed in 2009. The first free ascent took place on Saturday, July 23, 2011. The crux is a long pitch off the top of the Green Pillar, which I feel is .13b-ish. But there are also four more 5.12 pitches above, the last two being especially wet and tricky. The best free route I've done on the Diamond (although I can't speak to the quality of the Honeymoon). Big thanks to Pete Takeda, and Andy Donson for their vision to see this climb as a free route, and f... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Crosswinds : Grippin' the Cutlass (5.12c)
By: j wharton When: Jul 13, 2011

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Comments: I broke a key crimp at the start of the headwall--sorry. The route still goes, however, just a touch harder, and a bit reachy.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Sublime Vision (M7-8)
By: j wharton When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: Blake, it does not climb the entire Sublime Buttress, just the first two pitches. Then left across a ledge (from a tree belay) to join Tunnel Vision for 2.5 pitches. Then right for 2 more pitches up a steep, left-facing corner. Hope you've been well!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Sublime Vision (M7-8)
By: j wharton When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: Yes, we climbed the roof on pitch two of Sublime Buttress, which is the crux of the route. If you climbed it on a warm, sunny day and could use your hands to jam, it would probably be a bit easier. Was very wintery when Steve and I climbed. Steve took some photos of the upper corner. Hope you go climb it! Be great right now, since we removed a lot of snow.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Brain Freeze (M5+ Steep Snow)
By: j wharton When: Mar 16, 2011

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Comments: I soloed this route today. Pretty damn fun. There's a fair bit of ice on it now, and if things don't get too warm my guess is that it will only get better. I walked off via the major gully to west. Simple and easy, just plug west along the ridge for 10 to 15 minutes, looking for the first obvious, big gully. If it's not dead-easy, you're not there yet. Would save bringing two ropes for the raps. Also can't imagine needing pins on this route. Cheers!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice : Bullet (WI3+ M6+)
By: j wharton When: Jan 16, 2011

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Comments: Brian McMahon and I climbed this route today in full Scottish conditions--a proper day out! We had intended to try something on Hallett's North Face, but we couldn't even see the wall from 50' away! Just thought I'd add that I climbed another pitch above the terrace in the topo. Going straight up another big dihedral and out some roofs. Good fun, and good pro. Maybe a touch easier then the 1st pitch. We were able to walk off right easily. This route's a great consolation prize if things prove to... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Jet Stream (5.12+)
By: j wharton When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: Apparently the obvious right facing arch just to the left of pitch 4 goes at straightforward .11+/.12-, which would eleminate the most cryptic bit of climbing on the route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Jet Stream (5.12+)
By: j wharton When: Mar 30, 2010

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Comments: This route is among the best routes at Red Rocks. A bit shorter, but perhaps better overall then the Original Route on the Rainbow Wall, and considerably harder. The first 30 feet of pitch 2, and the first 15 feet of pitch 4 are the definitive cruxes. Despite the .12c rating in Handren's new book, local consensus seems to put them somewhere around .13 minus, however they're bizarre, body english climbing that seems impossible at first, and then "easy" once you know what to do. It's easy to pull ... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : The Avenger (5.13a PG13)
By: j wharton When: Aug 27, 2006

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Comments: All the bolts need to come out. I climbed the entire route on gear, and never used the bolts during my attempts to redpoint the route. For full disclosure--I did use a few bolts for directionals during my initial TR recon. I removed the bolts from the anchor down to the roof (maybe 4) before heading to Asia for the summer, but still need to finish the job. The route has mostly studs, so they're a bit of a pain to get out. I should be able to finish the job this fall. True onsighters stop rea... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Nude Buttress : The Unspoken Truth (5.12c/d)
By: j wharton When: Aug 27, 2006

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Comments: Hey Eric and Chris,

Thanks for the history. I had heard the some muddled stories about these routes from Goplerud, Hollenbaugh, Benge, and even called Perkins to see what he knew. You guys both came up, but nobody really knew what the story was. Most assumed they were still unclimbed, so sorry about any confusion. Strange that Tom ignored these climbs in his book--he gave me some weird reasons over the phone. Eric, if you remember your name for unspoken truth let's use it, or re-name it no... more >>