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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: J Red When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolute classic! Unique climbing, great moves, memorable second and last pitch. You can do a pelvic jam on this climb! Be solid at 5.8-5.9 for this climb. There are a few spots where you could really deck if you are not careful, which is why I put the PG13. Also a great piece of climbing history.
Happy 100 years, Otto!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : School Room
By: J Red When: Oct 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The school room is a great place to get your feet wet in Ouray. Crowded on the weekends. This was the first place my wife and I went to. It was at the end of the season, no crowds! We ended up staying the entire day and did all the climbs (TR) in the area. Highly recommended, especially if you are getting into ice climbing (like me!).
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Ice : The Left Hand Fork Ice Clim... : Get Whacked (WI5+)
By: J Red When: Oct 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a way to TR this.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Ice : The Left Hand Fork Ice Clim... : Deep Throat Maple (WI3)
By: J Red When: Oct 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun and awesome. I TRed this route with my climbing club. It gets a PG13 cause I knocked out a bowling ball chuck of ice own at my wife belaying me.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Tinker Toys : Battleship (5.10b)
By: J Red When: Sep 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ughhh...I need to come back and red point this. My wife and I could not figure out the top from the last bolt to the chains. I must be missing something b/c it felt like 10c/d.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Wild : Call of the Wild (5.6)
By: J Red When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Arguably the best single pitch 5.6 in the canyon.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Brain Full of Spiders (5.9)
By: J Red When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The exposure is great! The first pitch wasn't as crappy as I thought it was going to be (I'm sure it has been cleaned up quite a bit). I thought the first three pitches were memorable. The crux is weird at the beginning, just find holds and commit. Focus on the feet. The 2nd pitch had this slab of with tiny toe holds making it a bit exciting. If I do it again, I would bring 6-8 runners and link the last two pitches. The first pitch had an awesome lay back move after the crux and a coupl... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9) : Photo
By: J Red When: Sep 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is it possible to do this roped up and belay someone across?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Layer Cake : Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (5.7)
By: J Red When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Christian did a great job on this route. Very fun! The most fun my wife and I have ever had multi pitching in RC. The bolts felt a little spaced out but not so bad that I wouldnt take a new person out on this route. The exposure is great, the moves felt fluid. Instant classic!
From what I hear, the route continues for 6 pitches (all under 5.9). The last pitch is a 10c (or something). Wrap rings all the way, dont be afraid to try and bail out if you need to. I cant wait to try when the w... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Monster (5.9)
By: J Red When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the best crack climb I have ever done in RC. The moves are fun, an awesome step through at the top. What more can you ask for?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Wild : Chupacabra (5.10a)
By: J Red When: Aug 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this one last night for the first time. My wife and I missed the onsight, but what a climb. Really good hand holds and a fun flake at the crux. Just lie back and enjoy the ride. I lost my footing at the crux and took a nice fall. Very slippery. We are coming back next week to get our redpoint on lead. By far the best climb in the area. Highly recommend the climb if you are looking to start leading 10a's.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Layer Cake : Intimidator (5.10a)
By: J Red When: Aug 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Christian did a great job on this route. The crux is really intimidating, especially if you don't commit. The holds are there you just have be able to reach around and find them. The first time I climbed this with Dave Morrey, he told me its only 5.7 if you know what you are looking for. Enjoy, its really the intimidator.
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