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Bucky


Member Since: Jul 11, 2008
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact J. Albers


Point Rank: # 243
Total Points: 2,182
Last Year: 78
Last 30 Days: 2
41 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has J. Albers been climbing?










Contributions


All 2851 | Routes 45 | Areas 9 | Photos 239 | Page Improvments | Comments 402 | Posts 1062 | Stars 585 | Ratings 509
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Plutonics (5.10b)
By: J. Albers When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Wait, what again Jeff? Wedge or sleeve? Did it wiggle in the hole when you clipped it? Either way, yikes.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Right. Like as if Wyoming rednecks never would dream of f*cking the place up. I'm not saying that its not possible that dumb@ss people from CO did that, but I have spent many, many weeks camping on the backside over the last decade plus and hands down the most damage and destruction I have witnessed has been the result of 4-wheelin, dirt bike ridin, burnin everything in sight yee haw rednecks from the great state of Wyoming. Being a dumbass is an international, trans-state affliction and crusty ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: The rust on the chains is not a problem at all. The jank a$$ washer and nut anchor bolts on the other hand....


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Afterlife (5.12c)
By: J. Albers When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: 12c slab seems about right. The climbing off of the first set of anchors is stellar, which is followed by 15 feet or so of some desperate friction. Given the bolting at the crux (safe but exciting), it would seem that this was put in ground up. If that is the case, then it must have been exciting firing the crux slab and then getting a hook set on the lip so that the bolt over the roof could be drilled. Pretty proud.

To answer Kenneth's inquiry...don't bother looking for holds at the crux, bec... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Agreed, Jay.
Every time I climb this route I think to myself, why the F... is this bolted with such bad groundfall potential. To make matters worse, if you are not tall, then you can't even reach the bolt from the ledge stance. I can reach it no prob, but I have certainly watched shorter folks have to do moves to clip it. Pretty dumb.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Photo
By: J. Albers When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: Awesome.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Shiny Face (5.13a)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: I would agree with Jason on the reach issue. I am sub-6 foot tall, and a couple of the moves were just out of reach requiring some alternate sequences that didn't feel very 13a'ish (i.e. painful). I would probably focus on other routes at or near the grade at DH before this one, but it is a nice climb nonetheless.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Joh... (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: Super fun route. No need to be tall for the last clips...if you combine a little bit of hip scumming with your stems, then the upper section passes with quite moderate static climbing (maybe easy 5.11 at most?).


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Dynamometer (5.12c)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: Mostly fun climbing but with a bouldery and unpleasant crux. Great rock, I just wish the climbing was a bit more consistent. Awfully hard crux for it to be 5.12, though I guess every extra bit of ape you have would help considerably.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Emeralds : The Benches : Kudos Cliff : Kudos Right
By: J. Albers When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: All three routes here are nice. If you are 5.9 leader though, you may want to think about a stick clip because the first bolts are a fair ways up and you do have to climb (even the cruxes?) before you get to the clipping stances.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Emeralds : The Benches : Kudos Cliff : ... : Duppy Conquer (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: Another nice route. In particular, the upper headwall has some very nice movement up a clean face. However, some care should be exercised clipping the second bolt on this route and the one to the right because if you muff the clip you are gonna come real close to hitting the deck. Not sure why this is the case because the second bolts could certainly have been placed a bit lower and clipped easily (in fact it appears that the original second bolt was actually removed and the new bolt is a foot a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Emeralds : The Benches : Kudos Cliff : ... : Step into the Light (5.10c)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: Great route. The bolting job during the climb is great, but the anchor is totally jingus. I'm a big fan of fat clip-and-go tow hooks (i.e. mussy hooks), but the rigs on this route are attached to the janky homemade hangers with small little pins. I just shook my head when I clipped these things...if I still lived in CA I would swap them out myself.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge
By: J. Albers When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ @ Chris D

I think that there are some places that are better left as "choose your own adventure" areas. Luckily there are a bunch of places like this left in the Sierra (Cal Dome, Hwy 108, Southern Sierra, Shuteye). For these areas I am in some sense glad that there is minimal info because it keeps the place a bit more wild (i.e. there are plenty of destinations to choose from that are info'ed into submission...The Leap, Tuolumne, the Ditch, etc). The guidebook is nice, but I would submit t... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Munginella (5.6)
By: J. Albers When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: ^^^^ @ John Ryan,

Really? Scrambling up a dirty 4th class gully? Either you were off route or you are being melodramatic. The first pitch is fun on clean stone, i.e. this:

www.mountainproject.com/v/106042914

does not constitute a chossy gully. Moreover as far as 5.6s in the Valley go, this is a pretty good one (certainly better than the 'glass corner' first pitch of After Six).


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Left Side (Tribal War, Poke... : Three Charlies (5.7)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: Very good. Thanks Alex!! Cheers.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Chouinard's Gully (WI3)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Ross,

In general I agree with your sentiment, which is why in my description of the two descent options I stated that folks should use good judgement when deciding whether to rappel or walk off. That said, when I did the route, we were the only ones on the route going either up or down. Given that it is entirely obvious whether there are parties below you (or if there will be in the near future...i.e. folks crossing the lake), then if nobody is around it is just fine to rap the route. In short,... more >>


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Jailhouse Rock : Fugitive (5.13a)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Dear skinny,

...its Troy Corliss not Tony.


Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Oak Creek Canyon : Tanner Dome : Rightist (5.9+)
By: J. Albers When: Dec 6, 2013

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Comments: If you bailed and left a quickdraw on 'Rightest', describe it to me and I can try and get it back to you.
Cheers.


Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Oak Creek Canyon : Tanner Dome
By: J. Albers When: Dec 6, 2013

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Comments: If you bailed and left a quickdraw on 'Rightest', describe it to me and I can try and get it back to you.
Cheers.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Your comment about the original route name seems fine Ryan (my old topo lists it as High Times as well), but I would have to disagree with you about the pitch 10 corner going at 5.10. I know some awfully strong climbers who think that pitch is solid 5.11.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock
By: J. Albers When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: Take it easy there split. I haven't climbed ever route here either, but that doesn't mean one can't come to the obvious conclusion that this cliff is 'rock' in only the most technical sense. I climbed a handful of the 'classics' and they were all mud piles. I didn't give every route I did a bomb, but I think I was being generous, i.e. I would not fault someone for giving them bombs. Sorry if that mortally offends your sense of justice.


Location: Salamanizer : Uuh, photo album : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: I'm not so sure about the comfort level of the squeeze you're climbing, but Mike sure looks like he's got a comfy belay seat to watch from!!

(...well, I assume its Mike anyway, as least judging from the expertly deployed belay slouch).

Nice photo.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Steppin' Stone (5.11a)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Hi Rennie,

I don't think that most people consider the ledge to be 'off'. In fact, I think most folks probably regroup there and try to reach over and stuff some pro in before casting off into the undercling. Such a good route.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Farley (5.9)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Whoa, whoa there Gordy. There is absolutely no reason that you should be risking a ground fall on Farley. You can sew the first pitch up top to bottom. Even at the top where it gets wide, if you brought something big you can place it.

I actually don't think Farley is all that great of a route, but I would hate for someone to miss out on it because of your description.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Double Top Secret (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: When the "thank god" cobble comes out (and it is hard to believe that it won't), the belayer and climber will be lucky if they don't get jacked up. Climb gingerly.


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