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Member Since: Jul 11, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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J. Albers
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Total Points: 2,221
Last Year: 43
Last 30 Days: 7
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3080 | Routes 45 | Areas 9 | Photos 240 | Page Improvements | Comments 436 | Posts 1169 | Stars 629 | Ratings 552
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Two Minute Warning (5.11c/d)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: I would have to disagree with Tony about climbing this without the first bolt clipped, especially if you are short. If you blow that section -- which is one of the cruxes of the route -- your ankles would eat a pretty big sh*t sandwich. Moreover, I agree with the Mr. Huggins that the bolt placement is probably in the ideal spot as a bolt any lower would be pretty pointless given the climbing in that section. Just preclip it and forget about it.

I guess the climbing on this has a couple nice mov... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Lost and Found (5.12a/b)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: ^^^
Funny you should comment on this, Jason, because I climbed this a few days ago and was going to comment on how my partner and I appreciated the location of the new bolts. To be clear, I never climbed the route pre-update, but from the looks of the old bolt hole location under the roof, my partner and I both concluded that this bolt was probably moved to the right because the location of the old bolt caused the rope to run over the sharp arete edge. In contrast, the new placements leave the r... more >>


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willard : Trestle Area : Elephant Head Gully (WI3+)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Robert,
To be honest with you, I gave this route 3+ only because of the book consensus. I would have given it 3- tops if it was just me. In places like Cody, this would not get a 3...though I'm not sure that Cody is a far comparison because things there are on the stout side. Still, I think 3+ is fairly generous.


Location: CA : High Sierra : The Palisades : Middle Palisade : East Face (3rd) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^ @ Jeff.

Again, to the best of my knowledge -- and I just poked around a bit in various sources to check my recollection -- the consequence of a fall while climbing is not factored into the grade. The grade of the entire climb, as in, this climb is a Grade IV, does take into account consequences, objective dangers, etc., but the actual difficulty grade does not.

Jeff's rotation of the photo helps a lot with perspective. Nevertheless, from the photo it would appear that the climbing in th... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : The Palisades : Middle Palisade : East Face (3rd) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: Peter,
The consequence of a fall has no bearing on the climbing grade/difficulty. That's why you often see things in guidebooks referred to as "exposed 4th class'. In other words, its fourth class (i.e. its possible to fall because you are actually climbing), and if you do, its exposed so you might eat it.
To answer your question about this picture though, I think its the camera angle that makes it look worse than it actually is.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Steppin' Stone (5.11b)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ Interesting take on this route Vlad. I actually felt that the second pitch was more like 10c and that the first pitch was the clear crux (I think Lesbian Love is quite a bit harder than anything on SS). I also didn't think that it was super easy at 11a, but its hard for me to remember because its been close to a decade since I have done it.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : The Sugar Cube : The Match-Up (5.12)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Very fun route on great stone. I didn't find this to be awkward at all. Good core tension and a little bit of stemming and this thing climbs really smoothly. Personally I wouldn't bother with a stick clip, but the crux is getting past the second clip, so if you did fall you might bang into your belayer pretty good. Thus if you are worried at all may, you want to take Richard's advice and either stick clip the first two bolts or hang them on the way down from the 5.10.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Mary's Tricks (5.11-)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Wow, super nice route. Short crux, but fun all the way to the top. 10+/11- seems fine.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Deceiver (5.9)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Agree with Greg here, I don't see how this is 5.9. I fact I don't think 10b is crazy given the steep pulls on small holds at the start, though I could see it being easier if you are tall. Fun route though.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - left buttress : The Devil's Backbone (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Super fun route. Mostly bullet rock with great belay stances and protection. My partner and I didn't find the gully distracting at all and thought that the pitches maybe went at 11a, 10d, and 11b/c. Good stuff, thanks for another fine route, Bernard and Mark.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Moon Shadow (5.12b)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for posting this, Ken. My brother and I were spying it on our way down from the Devil's Backbone yesterday. Excited to get on it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: I always say, more people don't get badly hurt in climbing out of dumb luck rather than skill and know-how. Yikes.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain
By: J. Albers When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^ Brian,

You can technically bring a dog with you, though personally I think its a bad crag for dogs for a number of reasons (and I am a dog owner). In particular, if you have a high energy dog, it is really a hassle for everyone else there because there just isn't any room for a dog to move around without bothering others. However, probably the biggest issue is that it is highly, highly likely that your dog will get poison oak on its fur. That may or may not mean that you get it when you pe... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Uncle Tom (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: Easy Caliza, everyone is entitled to their opinion and there is no need to tell people that there opinion can only be valid if they can't crimp....you never know, the people you are talking down to may be able to onsight at your send limit ;)


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: J. Albers When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: I'm with Adam 100% on this, i.e. please don't add perma-draws, and Jacob, arguing that draws are not permanent because you can take them off with a wrench is a semantic distinction. IMHO Boulder Canyon routes are a very bad venue for permanent hardware...especially on a wall where there are already quasi-access issues. Plus, there just isn't a need, because it is super easy to clean the routes here.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Busted By Dewey (5.10b) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Jason!! Is that a full leg behind the rope I see? I guess it was good he had a helmet on?!? I think I may have teased you about rope work before, but I will just go ahead and chime in again (grin).
Nice photo though. Its been a few (okay a lot) of years since I have been to El Rito and I am excited to check out the areas you have been developing. Thanks for the hard work.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head
By: J. Albers When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: That's great information, Tod, thanks for the update.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head
By: J. Albers When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: ^^^

Hi Jason, thanks for posting about this.

I have actually been meaning to write a similar post but obviously hadn't gotten around to it. In some sense, I understand the parking lot closure because there has been quite a bit of trash left at the "campsite" fire pit on the trail in (diapers, tortilla wrappers, etc.). However I feel like the complete closure is excessive and unwarranted on public land, but I guess if they plan on adding spaces nearby, then it is not a huge deal. That... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Flying Beast (5.12d) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: Jay is right, I have seen a lot of epoxied bolts in Boulder Canyon. Unfortunately I think it may be hiding dangerous rust. I say that because Greg Barnes replaced a bunch of epoxied bolts in the Sierra and found that instead of holding out the moisture as was intended, it actually holds moisture in, and the bolts end up looking fine on the outside but are completely rotten and rusted on the inside. Obviously every climate region is different, but I would gander a guess to say that Boulder Canyo... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Uncle Tom (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: Agreed Sal about the grade on Kill Uncle...others state much the same in the comments for that route. Can't remember this one though, however you are likely correct.


Location: limpingcrab : Some pictures : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: No argument from me. Amazing place.


Location: limpingcrab : Some pictures : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: Obelisk?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Higher Security Risk : Evolution (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Hmmm, I don't know that I would go as far as calling this thing clean. I would say there is still quite a bit of questionable rock including friable flakes and overall hollow sounding bigger features. Okay climbing, but the rock quality is subpar.


Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolting & A... : Hardware : Climbing Bolt Types : Wedge Bolts
By: J. Albers When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Some of the info above is already out of date. Courtesy of the cleverness of Gregger Man, wedge anchors can now be replaced in a somewhat painless manner.

Below I have pasted a link to the MountainProject forum discussion that contains two videos .The first video shows how they score the bolt so that the wedge won't engage when you try to remove the stud. However, that video uses a relatively expensive tool to do the actual removal of the stud. To remove the stud without the expensive tool, Gre... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Point Break : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Now THAT is some funny sh*t. You certainly can't say that Luke isn't trying to get after it. Great pic.


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