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Location: CA : High Sierra : Dana Plateau : Lenticular Limbo (5.10+) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Jun 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice!! Gotta love the light in the Sierra.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Smoke Screen (5.10c)
By: J. Albers When: May 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Smoke Screen actually continues for several more pitches. The fourth pitch really shouldn't be missed because not only does it climb an amazing crack, but it provides a great counterbalance to the smeary face climbing of the first few pitches. The fifth and sixth pitches are worth doing at least once, but are not as good as pitches 2-4.
Pitch 4: Climb the thin crack just to the right of the classic final pitch of Gemini Cracks; an exquisite and not to be missed pitch. This pitch ends... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Photo
By: J. Albers When: May 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adam,
I have now seen a couple of your shots from the Eastside that have dark foreground, a streak of light in the middle ground, dark in the background, and sunlit mountains in the far background. The light on the Eastside can be great for getting shot like that. Your photo reminds me of this Ansel shot near Lone Pine:
shop.anseladams.com/Winter_Sunrise_from_Lone_Pine_p/17012171>>>
Anyway, nice photo.
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Location: IL : Jackson Falls : The Beaver Wall : Red Corvette (5.13a)
By: J. Albers When: May 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave's is correct on the origin of the route name, though his missing one rather fun part of it. My understanding was this was a local's longterm project and he insisted that others stay off. Anyway, I believe that there was a bit of a disagreement between the equipper and Kurt Smith regarding Kurt getting on it. I think Kurt got the FA anyway and then he gave it the aforementioned name as a bit of "f*ck off" to the equipper. (I will have t double check on all of this with my buddy because this ... more >>
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Mid-Town : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: May 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Daniel,
Next time consider taking one of the biners off of your quickdraw and just leaving that. This way you don't lose the whole expensive quickdraw when all you need to lower off of is a "leaver-biner".
Cheers.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Bowman Lake : Candy Land
By: J. Albers When: May 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Before I commence with my whiny baby comment, first let me say thank you to Mike and Josh for putting up this collection of routes. Given that most routes at B-Word etc. are 5.11-5.13, it is quite nice to have a collection of routes that are more moderate (this really helps for those of us who have partners that climb at a variety of grades).
That said, what is the deal with the janky anchors on these rigs? At least when I climbed them a year or two ago, the lead bolts were all bomber, but eac... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : The Emeralds : Kudos Cliff
By: J. Albers When: May 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just out of curiosity, what is the deal with all of the routes being listed as PG-13?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: May 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice timing. Just get lucky and happen to have the camera out? Cool shot, Frosty.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Golden Hall : Rain on the Mountain (5.13a)
By: J. Albers When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, what a fantastic route. Great movement, nice line, and high quality rock on a beautiful wall with great, colorful lichen. Bernard mentions that you probably want to pre-hang draws, but to be honest, I thought that the clipping stances were quite secure and the route is well-bolted, so there is probably not a huge need to hang draws from above (though make sure you are solid at the third clip).
Since Bernard asked for opinions and nobody else has chimed in regarding the grade, I will give ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Maternal Damnation (5.10)
By: J. Albers When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: What kind of methed up, stingy, klept star hole would give this route a bomb rating?
Seriously though, I thought this was a super fun route. Good rock, nice movement, well bolted, and in a nice setting. What's not to like? I was going to give this route 3 stars, but in honor of Top Rope Hero's cries of torment, I am giving it 4 stars.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: sibylle,
The reason people grade TT 5.5 is because the original route exits to the climber's left at the top of the dihedral (you then finish on 4th class up and left). The 5.7 finish is a variation.
Cheers.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello" : South Face : Whiskey Bill (5.7 PG13)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the FA info Mike. Nice job with this route, I thought it was super fun.
Cheers.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Flying In The Mountains (5.11a)
By: J. Albers When: Mar 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Robert is correct, the first pitch is indeed a left facing corner.
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : Moonrise (WI5) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bad screws indeed. I was up there a few weeks ago and Moonrise looked about like it does in your picture. It looked like most of the ice from about 1/3 of the way up to the top was not attached well (i.e. all of the mushroom sections in your pic). Though its hard to know for sure, I can't imagine that any of the screws in those sections would hold much of a fall...and if they didn't, my guess is that you would bring a parade of unhappiness down with you to the belay. It does look fun though.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires
By: J. Albers When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Justin,
The seasonal closer of all dirt roads went into effect a couple of years ago (prior to that it was just select roads). They open the roads as conditions permit to minimize damage. The best thing to do is just call the forest service to find out what is open because they don't always keep their website up to date.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : Knapsack Crack (5.5)
By: J. Albers When: Mar 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Usually I'm the one giving Aerili a hard time, but Brennen, she has a point. And yeah, maybe I do need a big rack to climb a 5.5, so what? Perhaps it would be wise not to look down on people just because they are not studly enough to solo a mindbending route like Knapsack.
Considering none of the last six comments (including mine) in any way add constructive commentary to this route page, how about we agree to delete the comments starting with the solo king comment?
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : Broken Hearts (WI5-6)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: First two pitches were completely sunbaked with a thick layer of garbage ice everywhere on Monday, Feb. 18th. Second pitch had a big window forming near the exit and was delaminating from the rock. Given how these pitches looked compared to other times I have done this route, I can't imagine that the top of the third pitch is in.
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : Mean Green (WI5)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch was running with water and slushy on Wed., Feb. 20th. Didn't bother climbing higher, so I don't know about the conditions higher up.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : BC's Canadian Rockies : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Jan 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn does that look sketchy. Nice series of pictures John.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Jan 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its called "Fine Line".
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Free For All (5.9)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Jeff,
I'm sort of surprised that the pin fell out, because if I recall correctly, that was a pretty substantially sized angle. Any chance that you will put a bolt in instead so that the pin does not need to be replaced every few years?
Thanks for the route upkeep.
Cheers man.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Powell River : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Jan 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed Slim. A bunch of people have tagged this picture as "great" but all it did for me was give me a quick shudder at the rope behind her leg. Careful Ilah.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Cannibals (5.12d)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^^^^ "Harder than 12d"
Indeed all the locals know full well that Cannibals is 5.13, but they will all nevertheless state to you in person that it is 12d with a *wink, wink*....tradition I guess. This includes Mr. Eison who entered the route (and broke a good foothold while running laps on the route) and my friend, Mr. Kennedy (aka Sergeant Sandbag) who is a longtime local. I think most routes put up by Mr. Frye are graded as "Scott Frye 5.xx" with everyone knowing that it is code for "the rou... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello" : South Face : South Pillar (5.7)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bryan's description is good and more or less describes the way we climbed the route. I would agree that starting directly below the first bolt on the first pitch is probably 9+/10a, while it is probably around 5.7/5.8 if you start up and to the right of the bolt line and traverse in on the good holds.
Also, I did not stop at the top of the first pillar at the end of the second pitch as Bryan suggests. Instead, I put in a piece of gear at the top of the pillar with a 4 foot sling attached and t... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello"
By: J. Albers When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris,
I find your comment a bit confusing. First off, the rock on Fresno Dome is absolutely bomber. When you sling a chickenhead here, you could hang a Toyota off of it.
Yes, the information about Fresno Dome is a bit sparse, but it is what is. In some sense it is nice because it holds the crowds at bay, yes? Perhaps try asking around in the local community, surely someone can give you an idea of where to find some route information to get you started.
Moreover, I am not usually one to commen... more >>
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