Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bucky


Member Since: Jul 11, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact J. Albers


Point Rank: # 248
Total Points: 2,193
Last Year: 57
Last 30 Days: 0
43 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has J. Albers been climbing?










Contributions


All 2947 | Routes 45 | Areas 9 | Photos 239 | Page Improvements | Comments 413 | Posts 1111 | Stars 603 | Ratings 527
Page 1 of 17.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Point Break : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Sep 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Now THAT is some funny sh*t. You certainly can't say that Luke isn't trying to get after it. Great pic.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Insurrection (5.14c) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Sep 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, what a beautiful panel of stone...whew. Nice work, Mark.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : A Little Nukey (5.9-)
By: J. Albers When: Sep 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great route. In particular, the solution pocket pitch is about as cool a pitch as I have led in a long time. The route is pretty well documented here, but I have a few minor comments.

First, I would agree with Kyle that it makes more sense to build a natural anchor in the flake before the bolts at the end of pitch 3. I set my belay low down at a small foot ledge (lots of gear between 0.75-3 Camalots) so that I could get in a piece of gear to protect the belay before running up the slab to clip... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: J. Albers When: Aug 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: ^^^^^
Why again is it Ken's responsibility to replace the fixed draws? Want a solution to your perceived problem? Bring your own gear, and clean it on the way back down. Personally I think it was awfully generous of Ken to take the time to take pics of the gear with an offer to return it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Pound Town (5.9+)
By: J. Albers When: Aug 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun climbing, great rock, and well-bolted; overall a pretty good route and nice addition to the area. Too bad about the tasteless route name though (same goes for the route next to it).


Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rising From the Plains : Lord Loves a Hangin (5.13a)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No worries Erik. Thanks for the info and interesting bit of history. I'll take a peek in my old Piana guide and see if there is any info to add. Cheers man.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Red as a Blooming Rose (5.10c)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah, this route is pretty stout. Similar in difficulty to The Devil Wears Spurs, which is another candidate for a 5.11 grade. Probably 5.11 at most crags and harder than a bunch of 5.11- stuff at the Iris. Still, I like the 'old school' 10d rating because it reminds of how hard stuff felt when I was learning to climb here um-teen years ago....it keeps me honest!!


Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Erratic : Queen of hearts (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The bolt appeared to be fine from the ground, so it must be that the nut itself broke or more likely just fell off? I guess its conceivable that the nut was loose enough so that when the hanger was loaded the nut was being torqued in a weird fashion that led to the failure (perhaps the fact that the bolt is placed on a mildly overhanging section of rock made this effect worse?)

Still, it is indeed disconcerting that a route that went up so recently would have loose hardware. I would suggest th... more >>


Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Erratic : Rodeo queen (5.12b)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great route. Super fun climbing down low to not-too-burly (for the Iris) climbing through the roof. For me this is a funner version of American Beauty (I find the crux huge move/toss at the end of American Beauty to be thuggy and unpleasant). I always wondered why this line had not been bolted, so I'm glad to see someone took the initiative. Thanks Jesse!


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Diamonds and Rain (5.11d)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: What's up with the red taped biner on the first bolt? (You can see what I am talking about in the beta photo.) It was still like that today when I walked past. Is there a bad bolt? Still a project? Never taken down after the redpoint?


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Give my Love to Rose (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Very nice line, but unfortunately it is poorly bolted. It may be wise to consider stick clipping the second bolt (especially if you are short), because if you blow the clip with any amount of rope out your are in all likelihood going to deck. And given the height of the fall and manner in which you would be coming in, it would be surprising if you didn't get pretty badly hurt. Bummer.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Plutonics (5.10b)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Wait, what again Jeff? Wedge or sleeve? Did it wiggle in the hole when you clipped it? Either way, yikes.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Jul 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Right. Like as if Wyoming rednecks never would dream of f*cking the place up. I'm not saying that its not possible that dumb@ss people from CO did that, but I have spent many, many weeks camping on the backside over the last decade plus and hands down the most damage and destruction I have witnessed has been the result of 4-wheelin, dirt bike ridin, burnin everything in sight yee haw rednecks from the great state of Wyoming. Being a dumbass is an international, trans-state affliction and crusty ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Jun 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The rust on the chains is not a problem at all. The jank a$$ washer and nut anchor bolts on the other hand....


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Afterlife (5.12c)
By: J. Albers When: May 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: 12c slab seems about right. The climbing off of the first set of anchors is stellar, which is followed by 15 feet or so of some desperate friction. Given the bolting at the crux (safe but exciting), it would seem that this was put in ground up. If that is the case, then it must have been exciting firing the crux slab and then getting a hook set on the lip so that the bolt over the roof could be drilled. Pretty proud.

To answer Kenneth's inquiry...don't bother looking for holds at the crux, bec... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: May 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed, Jay.
Every time I climb this route I think to myself, why the F... is this bolted with such bad groundfall potential. To make matters worse, if you are not tall, then you can't even reach the bolt from the ledge stance. I can reach it no prob, but I have certainly watched shorter folks have to do moves to clip it. Pretty dumb.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Photo
By: J. Albers When: May 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Shiny Face (5.13a)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I would agree with Jason on the reach issue. I am sub-6 foot tall, and a couple of the moves were just out of reach requiring some alternate sequences that didn't feel very 13a'ish (i.e. painful). I would probably focus on other routes at or near the grade at DH before this one, but it is a nice climb nonetheless.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Joh... (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun route. No need to be tall for the last clips...if you combine a little bit of hip scumming with your stems, then the upper section passes with quite moderate static climbing (maybe easy 5.11 at most?).


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Dynamometer (5.12c)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Mostly fun climbing but with a bouldery and unpleasant crux. Great rock, I just wish the climbing was a bit more consistent. Awfully hard crux for it to be 5.12, though I guess every extra bit of ape you have would help considerably.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Emeralds : The Benches : Kudos Cliff : Kudos Right
By: J. Albers When: Apr 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: All three routes here are nice. If you are 5.9 leader though, you may want to think about a stick clip because the first bolts are a fair ways up and you do have to climb (even the cruxes?) before you get to the clipping stances.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Emeralds : The Benches : Kudos Cliff : ... : Duppy Conquer (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Another nice route. In particular, the upper headwall has some very nice movement up a clean face. However, some care should be exercised clipping the second bolt on this route and the one to the right because if you muff the clip you are gonna come real close to hitting the deck. Not sure why this is the case because the second bolts could certainly have been placed a bit lower and clipped easily (in fact it appears that the original second bolt was actually removed and the new bolt is a foot a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Emeralds : The Benches : Kudos Cliff : ... : Step into the Light (5.10c)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great route. The bolting job during the climb is great, but the anchor is totally jingus. I'm a big fan of fat clip-and-go tow hooks (i.e. mussy hooks), but the rigs on this route are attached to the janky homemade hangers with small little pins. I just shook my head when I clipped these things...if I still lived in CA I would swap them out myself.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge
By: J. Albers When: Mar 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: ^^^ @ Chris D

I think that there are some places that are better left as "choose your own adventure" areas. Luckily there are a bunch of places like this left in the Sierra (Cal Dome, Hwy 108, Southern Sierra, Shuteye). For these areas I am in some sense glad that there is minimal info because it keeps the place a bit more wild (i.e. there are plenty of destinations to choose from that are info'ed into submission...The Leap, Tuolumne, the Ditch, etc). The guidebook is nice, but I would submit t... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Munginella (5.6)
By: J. Albers When: Mar 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: ^^^^ @ John Ryan,

Really? Scrambling up a dirty 4th class gully? Either you were off route or you are being melodramatic. The first pitch is fun on clean stone, i.e. this:

mountainproject.com/v/10604291...

does not constitute a chossy gully. Moreover as far as 5.6s in the Valley go, this is a pretty good one (certainly better than the 'glass corner' first pitch of After Six).


Page 1 of 17.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>