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Bucky


Member Since: Jul 11, 2008
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 255
Total Points: 2,216
Last Year: 49
Last 30 Days: 9
44 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has J. Albers been climbing?










Contributions


All 3041 | Routes 45 | Areas 9 | Photos 240 | Page Improvements | Comments 431 | Posts 1152 | Stars 620 | Ratings 544
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Steppin' Stone (5.11b)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ Interesting take on this route Vlad. I actually felt that the second pitch was more like 10c and that the first pitch was the clear crux (I think Lesbian Love is quite a bit harder than anything on SS). I also didn't think that it was super easy at 11a, but its hard for me to remember because its been close to a decade since I have done it.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : The Sugar Cube : The Match-Up (5.12)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Very fun route on great stone. I didn't find this to be awkward at all. Good core tension and a little bit of stemming and this thing climbs really smoothly. Personally I wouldn't bother with a stick clip, but the crux is getting past the second clip, so if you did fall you might bang into your belayer pretty good. Thus if you are worried at all may, you want to take Richard's advice and either stick clip the first two bolts or hang them on the way down from the 5.10.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Mary's Tricks (5.11-)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Wow, super nice route. Short crux, but fun all the way to the top. 10+/11- seems fine.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Deceiver (5.9)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Agree with Greg here, I don't see how this is 5.9. I fact I don't think 10b is crazy given the steep pulls on small holds at the start, though I could see it being easier if you are tall. Fun route though.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - left buttress : The Devil's Backbone (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Super fun route. Mostly bullet rock with great belay stances and protection. My partner and I didn't find the gully distracting at all and thought that the pitches maybe went at 11a, 10d, and 11b/c. Good stuff, thanks for another fine route, Bernard and Mark.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Moon Shadow (5.12b)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for posting this, Ken. My brother and I were spying it on our way down from the Devil's Backbone yesterday. Excited to get on it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: I always say, more people don't get badly hurt in climbing out of dumb luck rather than skill and know-how. Yikes.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain
By: J. Albers When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^ Brian,

You can technically bring a dog with you, though personally I think its a bad crag for dogs for a number of reasons (and I am a dog owner). In particular, if you have a high energy dog, it is really a hassle for everyone else there because there just isn't any room for a dog to move around without bothering others. However, probably the biggest issue is that it is highly, highly likely that your dog will get poison oak on its fur. That may or may not mean that you get it when you pe... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Uncle Tom (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: Easy Caliza, everyone is entitled to their opinion and there is no need to tell people that there opinion can only be valid if they can't crimp....you never know, the people you are talking down to may be able to onsight at your send limit ;)


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: J. Albers When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: I'm with Adam 100% on this, i.e. please don't add perma-draws, and Jacob, arguing that draws are not permanent because you can take them off with a wrench is a semantic distinction. IMHO Boulder Canyon routes are a very bad venue for permanent hardware...especially on a wall where there are already quasi-access issues. Plus, there just isn't a need, because it is super easy to clean the routes here.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Busted By Dewey (5.10b) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Jason!! Is that a full leg behind the rope I see? I guess it was good he had a helmet on?!? I think I may have teased you about rope work before, but I will just go ahead and chime in again (grin).
Nice photo though. Its been a few (okay a lot) of years since I have been to El Rito and I am excited to check out the areas you have been developing. Thanks for the hard work.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head
By: J. Albers When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: That's great information, Tod, thanks for the update.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head
By: J. Albers When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: ^^^

Hi Jason, thanks for posting about this.

I have actually been meaning to write a similar post but obviously hadn't gotten around to it. In some sense, I understand the parking lot closure because there has been quite a bit of trash left at the "campsite" fire pit on the trail in (diapers, tortilla wrappers, etc.). However I feel like the complete closure is excessive and unwarranted on public land, but I guess if they plan on adding spaces nearby, then it is not a huge deal. That... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Flying Beast (5.12d) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: Jay is right, I have seen a lot of epoxied bolts in Boulder Canyon. Unfortunately I think it may be hiding dangerous rust. I say that because Greg Barnes replaced a bunch of epoxied bolts in the Sierra and found that instead of holding out the moisture as was intended, it actually holds moisture in, and the bolts end up looking fine on the outside but are completely rotten and rusted on the inside. Obviously every climate region is different, but I would gander a guess to say that Boulder Canyo... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Uncle Tom (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: Agreed Sal about the grade on Kill Uncle...others state much the same in the comments for that route. Can't remember this one though, however you are likely correct.


Location: limpingcrab : Some pictures : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: No argument from me. Amazing place.


Location: limpingcrab : Some pictures : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: Obelisk?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Higher Security Risk : Evolution aka Gimme Back My... (5.11b)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Hmmm, I don't know that I would go as far as calling this thing clean. I would say there is still quite a bit of questionable rock including friable flakes and overall hollow sounding bigger features. Okay climbing, but the rock quality is subpar.


Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolting & A... : Hardware : Climbing Bolt Types : Wedge Bolts
By: J. Albers When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Some of the info above is already out of date. Courtesy of the cleverness of Gregger Man, wedge anchors can now be replaced in a somewhat painless manner.

Below I have pasted a link to the MountainProject forum discussion that contains two videos .The first video shows how they score the bolt so that the wedge won't engage when you try to remove the stud. However, that video uses a relatively expensive tool to do the actual removal of the stud. To remove the stud without the expensive tool, Gre... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Point Break : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Now THAT is some funny sh*t. You certainly can't say that Luke isn't trying to get after it. Great pic.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Insurrection (5.14c) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Sep 11, 2014

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Comments: Wow, what a beautiful panel of stone...whew. Nice work, Mark.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : A Little Nukey (5.9-)
By: J. Albers When: Sep 9, 2014

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Comments: Great route. In particular, the solution pocket pitch is about as cool a pitch as I have led in a long time. The route is pretty well documented here, but I have a few minor comments.

First, I would agree with Kyle that it makes more sense to build a natural anchor in the flake before the bolts at the end of pitch 3. I set my belay low down at a small foot ledge (lots of gear between 0.75-3 Camalots) so that I could get in a piece of gear to protect the belay before running up the slab to clip... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: J. Albers When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: ^^^^^
Why again is it Ken's responsibility to replace the fixed draws? Want a solution to your perceived problem? Bring your own gear, and clean it on the way back down. Personally I think it was awfully generous of Ken to take the time to take pics of the gear with an offer to return it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Pound Town (5.9+)
By: J. Albers When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing, great rock, and well-bolted; overall a pretty good route and nice addition to the area. Too bad about the tasteless route name though (same goes for the route next to it).


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rising From the Plains : Lord Loves a Hangin (5.13a)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: No worries Erik. Thanks for the info and interesting bit of history. I'll take a peek in my old Piana guide and see if there is any info to add. Cheers man.


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