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Bucky


Member Since: Jul 11, 2008
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 251
Total Points: 2,201
Last Year: 36
Last 30 Days: 5
44 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has J. Albers been climbing?










Contributions


All 2988 | Routes 45 | Areas 9 | Photos 239 | Page Improvements | Comments 421 | Posts 1129 | Stars 610 | Ratings 535
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head
By: J. Albers When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: That's great information, Tod, thanks for the update.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head
By: J. Albers When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: ^^^

Hi Jason, thanks for posting about this.

I have actually been meaning to write a similar post but obviously hadn't gotten around to it. In some sense, I understand the parking lot closure because there has been quite a bit of trash left at the "campsite" fire pit on the trail in (diapers, tortilla wrappers, etc.). However I feel like the complete closure is excessive and unwarranted on public land, but I guess if they plan on adding spaces nearby, then it is not a huge deal. That... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Flying Beast (5.12d) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: Jay is right, I have seen a lot of epoxied bolts in Boulder Canyon. Unfortunately I think it may be hiding dangerous rust. I say that because Greg Barnes replaced a bunch of epoxied bolts in the Sierra and found that instead of holding out the moisture as was intended, it actually holds moisture in, and the bolts end up looking fine on the outside but are completely rotten and rusted on the inside. Obviously every climate region is different, but I would gander a guess to say that Boulder Canyo... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Uncle Tom (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: Agreed Sal about the grade on Kill Uncle...others state much the same in the comments for that route. Can't remember this one though, however you are likely correct.


Location: limpingcrab : Some pictures : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: No argument from me. Amazing place.


Location: limpingcrab : Some pictures : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: Obelisk?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Higher Security Risk : Evolution aka Gimme Back My... (5.11b)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Hmmm, I don't know that I would go as far as calling this thing clean. I would say there is still quite a bit of questionable rock including friable flakes and overall hollow sounding bigger features. Okay climbing, but the rock quality is subpar.


Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolting & A... : Hardware : Climbing Bolt Types : Wedge Bolts
By: J. Albers When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Some of the info above is already out of date. Courtesy of the cleverness of Gregger Man, wedge anchors can now be replaced in a somewhat painless manner.

Below I have pasted a link to the MountainProject forum discussion that contains two videos .The first video shows how they score the bolt so that the wedge won't engage when you try to remove the stud. However, that video uses a relatively expensive tool to do the actual removal of the stud. To remove the stud without the expensive tool, Gre... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Point Break : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Now THAT is some funny sh*t. You certainly can't say that Luke isn't trying to get after it. Great pic.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Insurrection (5.14c) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Sep 11, 2014

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Comments: Wow, what a beautiful panel of stone...whew. Nice work, Mark.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : A Little Nukey (5.9-)
By: J. Albers When: Sep 9, 2014

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Comments: Great route. In particular, the solution pocket pitch is about as cool a pitch as I have led in a long time. The route is pretty well documented here, but I have a few minor comments.

First, I would agree with Kyle that it makes more sense to build a natural anchor in the flake before the bolts at the end of pitch 3. I set my belay low down at a small foot ledge (lots of gear between 0.75-3 Camalots) so that I could get in a piece of gear to protect the belay before running up the slab to clip... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: J. Albers When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: ^^^^^
Why again is it Ken's responsibility to replace the fixed draws? Want a solution to your perceived problem? Bring your own gear, and clean it on the way back down. Personally I think it was awfully generous of Ken to take the time to take pics of the gear with an offer to return it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Pound Town (5.9+)
By: J. Albers When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing, great rock, and well-bolted; overall a pretty good route and nice addition to the area. Too bad about the tasteless route name though (same goes for the route next to it).


Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rising From the Plains : Lord Loves a Hangin (5.13a)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: No worries Erik. Thanks for the info and interesting bit of history. I'll take a peek in my old Piana guide and see if there is any info to add. Cheers man.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Red as a Blooming Rose (5.10c)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, this route is pretty stout. Similar in difficulty to The Devil Wears Spurs, which is another candidate for a 5.11 grade. Probably 5.11 at most crags and harder than a bunch of 5.11- stuff at the Iris. Still, I like the 'old school' 10d rating because it reminds of how hard stuff felt when I was learning to climb here um-teen years ago....it keeps me honest!!


Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Erratic : Queen of hearts (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: The bolt appeared to be fine from the ground, so it must be that the nut itself broke or more likely just fell off? I guess its conceivable that the nut was loose enough so that when the hanger was loaded the nut was being torqued in a weird fashion that led to the failure (perhaps the fact that the bolt is placed on a mildly overhanging section of rock made this effect worse?)

Still, it is indeed disconcerting that a route that went up so recently would have loose hardware. I would suggest th... more >>


Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Erratic : Rodeo queen (5.12b)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Great route. Super fun climbing down low to not-too-burly (for the Iris) climbing through the roof. For me this is a funner version of American Beauty (I find the crux huge move/toss at the end of American Beauty to be thuggy and unpleasant). I always wondered why this line had not been bolted, so I'm glad to see someone took the initiative. Thanks Jesse!


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Diamonds and Rain (5.11d)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: What's up with the red taped biner on the first bolt? (You can see what I am talking about in the beta photo.) It was still like that today when I walked past. Is there a bad bolt? Still a project? Never taken down after the redpoint?


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Give my Love to Rose (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Very nice line, but unfortunately it is poorly bolted. It may be wise to consider stick clipping the second bolt (especially if you are short), because if you blow the clip with any amount of rope out your are in all likelihood going to deck. And given the height of the fall and manner in which you would be coming in, it would be surprising if you didn't get pretty badly hurt. Bummer.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Plutonics (5.10b)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Wait, what again Jeff? Wedge or sleeve? Did it wiggle in the hole when you clipped it? Either way, yikes.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Right. Like as if Wyoming rednecks never would dream of f*cking the place up. I'm not saying that its not possible that dumb@ss people from CO did that, but I have spent many, many weeks camping on the backside over the last decade plus and hands down the most damage and destruction I have witnessed has been the result of 4-wheelin, dirt bike ridin, burnin everything in sight yee haw rednecks from the great state of Wyoming. Being a dumbass is an international, trans-state affliction and crusty ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: The rust on the chains is not a problem at all. The jank a$$ washer and nut anchor bolts on the other hand....


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Afterlife (5.12c)
By: J. Albers When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: 12c slab seems about right. The climbing off of the first set of anchors is stellar, which is followed by 15 feet or so of some desperate friction. Given the bolting at the crux (safe but exciting), it would seem that this was put in ground up. If that is the case, then it must have been exciting firing the crux slab and then getting a hook set on the lip so that the bolt over the roof could be drilled. Pretty proud.

To answer Kenneth's inquiry...don't bother looking for holds at the crux, bec... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Agreed, Jay.
Every time I climb this route I think to myself, why the F... is this bolted with such bad groundfall potential. To make matters worse, if you are not tall, then you can't even reach the bolt from the ledge stance. I can reach it no prob, but I have certainly watched shorter folks have to do moves to clip it. Pretty dumb.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Photo
By: J. Albers When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: Awesome.


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