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Bucky


Member Since: Jul 11, 2008
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact J. Albers


Point Rank: # 231
Total Points: 2,175
Last Year: 104
Last 30 Days: 5
36 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Comments are worth 1



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All (2785) | Routes (45) | Areas (9) | Photos (239) | Comments (395) | Posts (1040) | Stars (565) | Ratings (492)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Joh... (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Super fun route. No need to be tall for the last clips...if you combine a little bit of hip scumming with your stems, then the upper section passes with quite moderate static climbing (maybe easy 5.11 at most?).


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Dynamometer (5.12c)
By: J. Albers When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Mostly fun climbing but with a bouldery and unpleasant crux. Great rock, I just wish the climbing was a bit more consistent. Awfully hard crux for it to be 5.12, though I guess every extra bit of ape you have would help considerably.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Emeralds : Kudos Cliff : Kudos Right
By: J. Albers When: 4 days ago

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Comments: All three routes here are nice. If you are 5.9 leader though, you may want to think about a stick clip because the first bolts are a fair ways up and you do have to climb (even the cruxes?) before you get to the clipping stances.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Emeralds : Kudos Cliff : Kudos Left : Duppy Conquer (5.11c PG13)
By: J. Albers When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Another nice route. In particular, the upper headwall has some very nice movement up a clean face. However, some care should be exercised clipping the second bolt on this route and the one to the right because if you muff the clip you are gonna come real close to hitting the deck. Not sure why this is the case because the second bolts could certainly have been placed a bit lower and clipped easily (in fact it appears that the original second bolt was actually removed and the new bolt is a foot a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Emeralds : Kudos Cliff : Kudos Left : Step into the Light (5.10c PG13)
By: J. Albers When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Great route. The bolting job during the climb is great, but the anchor is totally jingus. I'm a big fan of fat clip-and-go tow hooks (i.e. mussy hooks), but the rigs on this route are attached to the janky homemade hangers with small little pins. I just shook my head when I clipped these things...if I still lived in CA I would swap them out myself.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge
By: J. Albers When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ @ Chris D

I think that there are some places that are better left as "choose your own adventure" areas. Luckily there are a bunch of places like this left in the Sierra (Cal Dome, Hwy 108, Southern Sierra, Shuteye). For these areas I am in some sense glad that there is minimal info because it keeps the place a bit more wild (i.e. there are plenty of destinations to choose from that are info'ed into submission...The Leap, Tuolumne, the Ditch, etc). The guidebook is nice, but I would submit t... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Munginella (5.6)
By: J. Albers When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: ^^^^ @ John Ryan,

Really? Scrambling up a dirty 4th class gully? Either you were off route or you are being melodramatic. The first pitch is fun on clean stone, i.e. this:

www.mountainproject.com/v/106042914

does not constitute a chossy gully. Moreover as far as 5.6s in the Valley go, this is a pretty good one (certainly better than the 'glass corner' first pitch of After Six).


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Left Side : Three Charlies (5.7)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: Very good. Thanks Alex!! Cheers.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Chouinard's Gully (WI3)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Ross,

In general I agree with your sentiment, which is why in my description of the two descent options I stated that folks should use good judgement when deciding whether to rappel or walk off. That said, when I did the route, we were the only ones on the route going either up or down. Given that it is entirely obvious whether there are parties below you (or if there will be in the near future...i.e. folks crossing the lake), then if nobody is around it is just fine to rap the route. In short,... more >>


Location: CA : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Jailhouse Rock : Fugitive (5.13a)
By: J. Albers When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Dear skinny,

...its Troy Corliss not Tony.


Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Oak Creek Canyon : Tanner Dome : Rightist (5.9+)
By: J. Albers When: Dec 6, 2013

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Comments: If you bailed and left a quickdraw on 'Rightest', describe it to me and I can try and get it back to you.
Cheers.


Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Oak Creek Canyon : Tanner Dome
By: J. Albers When: Dec 6, 2013

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Comments: If you bailed and left a quickdraw on 'Rightest', describe it to me and I can try and get it back to you.
Cheers.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Your comment about the original route name seems fine Ryan (my old topo lists it as High Times as well), but I would have to disagree with you about the pitch 10 corner going at 5.10. I know some awfully strong climbers who think that pitch is solid 5.11.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock
By: J. Albers When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: Take it easy there split. I haven't climbed ever route here either, but that doesn't mean one can't come to the obvious conclusion that this cliff is 'rock' in only the most technical sense. I climbed a handful of the 'classics' and they were all mud piles. I didn't give every route I did a bomb, but I think I was being generous, i.e. I would not fault someone for giving them bombs. Sorry if that mortally offends your sense of justice.


Location: Salamanizer : Uuh, photo album : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: I'm not so sure about the comfort level of the squeeze you're climbing, but Mike sure looks like he's got a comfy belay seat to watch from!!

(...well, I assume its Mike anyway, as least judging from the expertly deployed belay slouch).

Nice photo.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Steppin' Stone (5.11a)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Hi Rennie,

I don't think that most people consider the ledge to be 'off'. In fact, I think most folks probably regroup there and try to reach over and stuff some pro in before casting off into the undercling. Such a good route.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Farley (5.9)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Whoa, whoa there Gordy. There is absolutely no reason that you should be risking a ground fall on Farley. You can sew the first pitch up top to bottom. Even at the top where it gets wide, if you brought something big you can place it.

I actually don't think Farley is all that great of a route, but I would hate for someone to miss out on it because of your description.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Double Top Secret (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: When the "thank god" cobble comes out (and it is hard to believe that it won't), the belayer and climber will be lucky if they don't get jacked up. Climb gingerly.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Fair enough, Van, sorry if I came across brashly. We just had some mild disasters at Jailhouse in CA with folks trying to "fix" routes and ended up with a glue smeared mess. Moreover, good on you for trying to get the ball rolling. Perhaps some long time locals will chime in here in the near future to drop their two cents. I can't promise that I will have the time, but if you end up needing some help, feel free to contact me.
Cheers.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Slim is exactly correct about gluing.

In general, if you want to glue something, you really need to get both bonding surfaces very clean or the glue job won't last and then you have made a real mess that is really hard to clean up. The best case scenario usually involves removing the piece of stone if possible so that you can get into all of the little crevices, etc. and thoroughly clean all of the surfaces. You then let everything dry well and only then do you apply the glue. If you ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : A Tall Cool One (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: I would have to agree with everything that KCP just stated. Perhaps most important is the fact that this thing is really fun. 12a? 11d? Meh, whatever. I did onsight it but didn't downgrade it...I guess I have a lot to learn about being a Boulderite. Next time I will have to channel my inner eight year old and get all grumpy about the bolting; perhaps then I can comfortably call it 11a.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock
By: J. Albers When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Indeed the climbing here is atune to mud-o-neering. I can't really see how this place will ever clean up because underneath the surface mud is, well, more mud. Moreover I couldn't help but wonder whether a bolt, even a long one, can truly be trusted for long. How many loading cycles have to occur before the "rock" compressing the bolt is fractured enough to fail? Pretty place and nice hike though.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Free and Easy (5.7)
By: J. Albers When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Agreed Frank. You do need to start a ways up to the right in order to make the first pitch work with a 60m rope. The description for Wish Sandwich is even worse because that does start further down the cliff and it is still listed as a 200 foot pitch. I had to simul-climb about 20 feet (with a 70m rope) so that my partner could reach the belay.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Wish Sandwich (5.8+)
By: J. Albers When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: I have been meaning to post about the length of the first pitch since I did this a year or so ago. We started all the way at the bottom of the buttress (which seemed like the obvious place to begin) and I had to simul-climb 15-20 feet so that my partner could hit the anchor (with a 70 meter rope). Without starting up and right a ways, I don't know how this could possibly be done without a 70m rope.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: No doubt! That pitch feels like it goes on forever without a break...not that I'm complaining, well maybe my calves were.


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